I can't help you with the settings today because I'm not at home, but the original rough running wouldn't be anything to do with settings. Mine always work perfectly out of the box. It would be a good idea, therefore, to look elsewhere for the source of your rough running. Start with the motor cable connector near the motor. Did you push it all the way in to the line? Next, check the phase and hall wire connections. Then look for signs of damage on the motor cable, especially where it comes out of the axle. Hopefully, it'll be the connector not in properly.
2 Speed Xiongda hubmotor
- Thread starter d8veh
- Start date
knutselmaaster
1 kW
Thanks d8veh
Cables should all be in one piece as nothing particularly rough has happened.
It must be something that is badly connected then.
I did stuff a lot of wiring in a small space, maybe I teared something off.
I will open things up tonight.
Shame, I was quite happy with my cabling / waterproofing...
Well, at least it is a good exercise in trouble shooting.
Cables should all be in one piece as nothing particularly rough has happened.
It must be something that is badly connected then.
I did stuff a lot of wiring in a small space, maybe I teared something off.
I will open things up tonight.
Shame, I was quite happy with my cabling / waterproofing...
Well, at least it is a good exercise in trouble shooting.
menvert
100 W
Here is my earlier post with the KT 36v default settings for reference, should help out. Not sure about the 6kph settings though, this came default as unrestricted accelerator, it's with XD's supplied PAS sensor;knutselmaaster said:
menvert said:
knutselmaaster
1 kW
Ok...
I had just disconnected a phase wire while stuffing the wiring in the box.
Thanks for your replies
I had just disconnected a phase wire while stuffing the wiring in the box.
Thanks for your replies
OK, all rimmed & ready to roll but as i dont want to use PAS do i need another controller with throttle ? I presumed the controllers switch was some sort of thumb throttle but upon testing i realised my false assumption. KT 485 VPH is on the controller, i had a photo but it's to big to attatch.
knutselmaaster
1 kW
You can use it without PAS and with a throttle.
You just need to connect a throttle and change P and C settings accordingly.
You just need to connect a throttle and change P and C settings accordingly.
Zash
10 mW
- Joined
- Jun 28, 2015
- Messages
- 20
Hi fellas,
I ordered both controllers and LCDs, and have finished installing the system. Premilinary results are impressive.
I opted to install the LiShui system first as the impression I got was that it was more economical, and the LCD just looks better to be honest.
The only problem I am having now is that the LCD is reporting low battery and low voltage (31.5v). I am running a fully charged 48v 20Ah LiFePO4. I have manually checked the battery output from the battery and then from the power meter, which both show the correct 54v.
The controller was rather hot after a 5 minute ride. I need to put ventilation holes in the bag I presume, but could be related.
The throttle is unmarked and presumably universal. Bonnie provided it so I'm inclined to accept that it would work at the correct voltage.
I have read through the manual and nothing indicates that there are battery setting options. Perhaps the LCD is not designed for a 48v system?
Help would be appreciated. I have also written to Bonnie.
Thank you.
Also, thanks to Bonnie, data on motor...
I ordered both controllers and LCDs, and have finished installing the system. Premilinary results are impressive.
I opted to install the LiShui system first as the impression I got was that it was more economical, and the LCD just looks better to be honest.
The only problem I am having now is that the LCD is reporting low battery and low voltage (31.5v). I am running a fully charged 48v 20Ah LiFePO4. I have manually checked the battery output from the battery and then from the power meter, which both show the correct 54v.
The controller was rather hot after a 5 minute ride. I need to put ventilation holes in the bag I presume, but could be related.
The throttle is unmarked and presumably universal. Bonnie provided it so I'm inclined to accept that it would work at the correct voltage.
I have read through the manual and nothing indicates that there are battery setting options. Perhaps the LCD is not designed for a 48v system?
Help would be appreciated. I have also written to Bonnie.
Thank you.
Also, thanks to Bonnie, data on motor...
Hello to everyone,
I have been following this topic for about a year and now I got my first
e-bike project completed. This thread was a great help. I found the
answers to all the questions without that I had to ask separately !!
I'm quite happy with the result. A pleasant surprise it was that Xiongda
motor is nearly silent.
The starting point was a few years old steel On-One Inbred 29er frame,
rattle can paint job.
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3937/19080185140_342ac288b3_h.jpg
I have been following this topic for about a year and now I got my first
e-bike project completed. This thread was a great help. I found the
answers to all the questions without that I had to ask separately !!
I'm quite happy with the result. A pleasant surprise it was that Xiongda
motor is nearly silent.
The starting point was a few years old steel On-One Inbred 29er frame,
rattle can paint job.
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3937/19080185140_342ac288b3_h.jpg
menvert
100 W
Lookin' good, Nice carbon-look battery.hartsu said:
Sounds like a controller defect to me... any luck with a resolution?Zash said:
I think my [48v] controller is failing... Cold snap here (still 5-10 above freezing), maybe related, but after about 3k this morning the bike started continually cutting all power to motor momentarily and then powering again only to cut power etc.
Very similar to the 36v controller would do this at maximum load when the Battery was about @48v or above, basically exceeding the capacitors rating.
The LCD was always staying on and speedo seemed to read okay under power, so halls aren't totally failing, brake cut-offs working properly.
I had to set max amps (C5=4) which is about 10a/450w absolute max compared to about 650 normally, to have it mostly work.
Makes me wonder if the Resister I had to solder back in place when controller arrived has degraded in the cold, though wouldn't have thought lowering my amps would make it now work if that were the case?
Zash
10 mW
- Joined
- Jun 28, 2015
- Messages
- 20
The problem was a defective LCD. Bonnie shipped a working one quickly - great customer service!
Everything working well now. I'll test out the settings down the line...
It might be an idea to buy a spare controller and LCD. They seem cheap enough. It helps when you need to diagnose faults I guess
Everything working well now. I'll test out the settings down the line...
It might be an idea to buy a spare controller and LCD. They seem cheap enough. It helps when you need to diagnose faults I guess
menvert
100 W
It just got progressively worse on the way home, basically unusable now. I opened controller, looks fine inside, nothing smells burnt, and visually they all look fine.
Will try my 36v controller later to compare, otherwise I am wondering if the halls are burning out, not enough to totally fail but enough to no longer signal properly? anyone know if I can switch to sensor-less mode on the KT?
Will try my 36v controller later to compare, otherwise I am wondering if the halls are burning out, not enough to totally fail but enough to no longer signal properly? anyone know if I can switch to sensor-less mode on the KT?
menvert
100 W
Yeah connector near wheel was fully plugged in and also at controller (actually quite difficult to remove the 3 power to motor wires, they were connected that tightly)
I put in old controller (36v) and it worked for 10k so it must be controller, I pulled 48v apart and I'll solder the resister (which came wasn't attached on delivery originally) in better this time as it wasn't an ideal job the 1st time.
Interesting difference going back to old controller though.... 36v auto shift is again useless and slower, constantly hunting, and for some reason, much more torque, I have a 15-20% small hill right at home that I don't have a run-up on and on the 48v it almost completely stalls, but on the 36v it was doing much better (and at this stage battery was 42v compared to my usual 44v at that stage)
I put in old controller (36v) and it worked for 10k so it must be controller, I pulled 48v apart and I'll solder the resister (which came wasn't attached on delivery originally) in better this time as it wasn't an ideal job the 1st time.
Interesting difference going back to old controller though.... 36v auto shift is again useless and slower, constantly hunting, and for some reason, much more torque, I have a 15-20% small hill right at home that I don't have a run-up on and on the 48v it almost completely stalls, but on the 36v it was doing much better (and at this stage battery was 42v compared to my usual 44v at that stage)
menvert
100 W
He said it was the LCD ;ktmede said:
Zash said:
I rode to work on my old 36v controller today.
After some k's It was cutting out constantly, thought my issue was now showing up on a different controller, but then I realized I had been lazy and just put it in my cable bag, pulled it out and it was very hot (it's winter right now too), remounted it in my normal position contacting the metal of the rack and with easy air-flow... All good again, these things run so hot, though being right on/over max voltage doesn't help...
Bonnie is sending me a replacement 48v controller too.
Then both C600 displays they sent must be defective - not a good sign.
As a "safety" option, I ordered an extra KT controller with LCD03 display I used for the first two bikes I built. That one shows the correct voltage.
I got a manual for the LCD03 display.
Does anyone have a manual for the C600 display / Lishui controller?
I only found this description online: http://www.bigstone-nj.com/products/lcd-display/c600
As a "safety" option, I ordered an extra KT controller with LCD03 display I used for the first two bikes I built. That one shows the correct voltage.
I got a manual for the LCD03 display.
Does anyone have a manual for the C600 display / Lishui controller?
I only found this description online: http://www.bigstone-nj.com/products/lcd-display/c600
Zash
10 mW
- Joined
- Jun 28, 2015
- Messages
- 20
Ask Bonnie or LS, they will both send you a manual.
Also, here:
http://speedy.sh/rSC3x/C600-instructions-141115.pdf
Also, here:
http://speedy.sh/rSC3x/C600-instructions-141115.pdf
Thanks for the manual.
I'm waiting to get new displays from Bonnie.
Was the hot temperature you mentioned earlier due to the faulty display? Just asking, because would like to know if I could use the bike as is until the new displays arrive, or if using it with the faulty display could cause harm to other parts - like controller or motor.
Has anyone tried to run bike lights off the KT or LiShui controller? It would be great if the light could be switched on from the display.
If that's not possible, any idea if I could get the power from a cable I'm not using - like the ones to be connected to brake sensors - or from the battery USB port do supply to my lights?
Could I use my current light (Fuxon F-130 DRL) - which is getting power from a dynamo ?
Thanks
I'm waiting to get new displays from Bonnie.
Was the hot temperature you mentioned earlier due to the faulty display? Just asking, because would like to know if I could use the bike as is until the new displays arrive, or if using it with the faulty display could cause harm to other parts - like controller or motor.
Has anyone tried to run bike lights off the KT or LiShui controller? It would be great if the light could be switched on from the display.
If that's not possible, any idea if I could get the power from a cable I'm not using - like the ones to be connected to brake sensors - or from the battery USB port do supply to my lights?
Could I use my current light (Fuxon F-130 DRL) - which is getting power from a dynamo ?
Thanks
Zash
10 mW
- Joined
- Jun 28, 2015
- Messages
- 20
The heat output of the controller seems to be the same although I have not measured it accurately.
I can't say if it would be a good idea to run it like that.
I do seem to recall reading that you can switch on/off lights with the same switch (power button) as the LCD back-light on the LS. you will want battery power from the main battery and use a relay or something similar attached to the controller to power the light I presume.
Sorry I can't be of more help.
Kind regards.
I can't say if it would be a good idea to run it like that.
I do seem to recall reading that you can switch on/off lights with the same switch (power button) as the LCD back-light on the LS. you will want battery power from the main battery and use a relay or something similar attached to the controller to power the light I presume.
Sorry I can't be of more help.
Kind regards.
menvert
100 W
ktmede said:
I don't think the 5v rail has enough current to do much at all, it's just for signalling. I tried to have it power a relay and seemed to be more than it could reliably handle on my KT.
What my friend did for one of those batteries was get a USB head-light, there are a few out there (if the plug is on the side, ideally get a right-angle USB adaptor as well to minimise chance you'll break it off pedalling)
On my bike I found a 12-72v led head-light and wired in a plug directly to the battery output. To keep your current one you'd need to find it's voltage and wire in a step-down of some sort, you already have a 5v step-down output via the USB port so you could be lucky and it's 5v...
In other news my replaced KT 48v runs great, real smooth power curve, so I think the old one was always defective
hartsu said:
Thats a beautiful build, well done. I went the other extreme and built the Xiongda into an old bike I purchased of ebay because I'm going to use it for travelling to work and shops and I wouldn't be game leaving such a nice bike as yours parked at the local shops. It just wouldn't last long. I too am finding the Xiongda excellent. Unlike my other motors (HS3540 etc) this bike remains quite ridable if electrics fail. Its hill climbing ability impressive. Seem to be getting 60km range from 15ah battery over a very hilly course (hills are 15+ degree's). Very impressed.
knutselmaaster
1 kW
I finished an (experimental) build with the 2-speed motor, front-wheel version with the lishui controller combo.
It is very powerful, I set it in eco mode, and still it has amazing torque.
Bonnie sent me a manual for the lishui display, but it only explains the "casual" settings.
Does anyone know if there are, like on the lcd3, any advanced settings like max ampere, pas magnet settings etc? If so, is there any documentation available somewhere ?
It is very powerful, I set it in eco mode, and still it has amazing torque.
Bonnie sent me a manual for the lishui display, but it only explains the "casual" settings.
Does anyone know if there are, like on the lcd3, any advanced settings like max ampere, pas magnet settings etc? If so, is there any documentation available somewhere ?
