2 Speed Xiongda hubmotor

I'm after a wiring diagram (or rather the pin-out) for the KT48SVPR-XD15 - this is the controller that was sent with the XD motor and the LCD display from XD. I've somehow lost the doco I had.

In particular I want to know which connector is the PAS and which is the throttle, along with some colour + function info. Thanks.
 
techedge said:
I'm after a wiring diagram (or rather the pin-out) for the KT48SVPR-XD15 - this is the controller that was sent with the XD motor and the LCD display from XD. I've somehow lost the doco I had.

In particular I want to know which connector is the PAS and which is the throttle, along with some colour + function info. Thanks.

I have the C600, so I can't help you. But have you written Bonnie? That's what I did, and after sending me the wrong one she sent me the right one.
 
techedge said:
But have you written Bonnie?

Well, that's a good question! Should I use the number email address @139.com? I have purchased from them before...


You could, I suppose. But my extensive correspondence with "her" has always been thru bonnie@xiongdamotor.com.cn. I've found her very responsive, good "service attitude".
 
bigoilbob said:
But my extensive correspondence with "her" has always been thru bonnie@xiongdamotor.com.cn. I've found her very responsive, good "service attitude".

Thanks for the email address BigOilBob! Yes, I appreciate that Bonnie is a her.

LCD3 Problem

I also have another problem. My LCD suddenly went dead when I powered it up a couple of days ago - nothing inside looks burnt and I thought that perhaps it had simply reflashed itself (I had been playing with the buttons to try and work out how to get the backlighting to stay on). Is there any public info that would let me re-program/re-flash it?
 
techedge said:
I also have another problem. My LCD suddenly went dead when I powered it up a couple of days ago - nothing inside looks burnt and I thought that perhaps it had simply reflashed itself (I had been playing with the buttons to try and work out how to get the backlighting to stay on). Is there any public info that would let me re-program/re-flash it?

The previously supplied link still works; but if it never powers on, I think it is stuffed, or you have a loose wire.
http://www.szktdz.com/upload/file/20140913/20140913155038_92748.pdf
 
techedge said:
bigoilbob said:
But my extensive correspondence with "her" has always been thru bonnie@xiongdamotor.com.cn. I've found her very responsive, good "service attitude".

Thanks for the email address BigOilBob! Yes, I appreciate that Bonnie is a her.

LCD3 Problem

I also have another problem. My LCD suddenly went dead when I powered it up a couple of days ago - nothing inside looks burnt and I thought that perhaps it had simply reflashed itself (I had been playing with the buttons to try and work out how to get the backlighting to stay on). Is there any public info that would let me re-program/re-flash it?

I spent quite a bit of time troubleshooting mine when this happened to me. Turned out one of my power supply wires had worked loose. Hope I'm not insulting your intelligence by suggesting that you're as careless as me, even once.....
 
ktmede Thanks for the image showing the KT48SVPR-XD15 - much appreciated.

bigoilbob Thanks for the advice on the LCD3 - I'll spend a bit of time checking it out but I have a spare for the time being.

And, as for correspondance with Bonnie - yes, I got a reply and asked a question about the possible motor options that I could select from (I have a single example of 2 & 4 below) but I don't understand options 5 & 6. So my questions is:

what is cassette type freewheels? - let me rephrase that - I know what a cassette is, but which one are we talking about - Shimano? Anyone used one of these successfully?

Possible XIONGDA motor options (July 2016):
1. v-brake front 100mm
2. disc-brake front 110mm
3. v-brake+thread-on type freewheels 135mm
4. disc-brake+thread-on type freewheels 145mm
5. v-brake+cassette type freewheels 145mm
6. disc-brake+cassette type freewheels 155mm


Thanks for any clarification!
 
With the kt controller and the lcd3 you can limit the max current quite well (see attached picture)
I use the 1,50 setting to get it "Europe street legal". (~250w)
You also have 3 settings on how hard the power kicks in (low-normal-high)
 

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knutselmaaster said:
With the kt controller and the lcd3 you can limit the max current quite well (see attached picture)
I use the 1,50 setting to get it Europe street legal. (~250w)
You also have 3 settings on how hard the power kicks in (low-normal-high)
There's no power limit in Europe. You can run with as many amps as you want. The limit is on the continuous rated power of the motor, which comes from the label or catalogue. There's no limit on how you use it. The only limits on how you use the motor are the voltage can not be more than a 48v system and the speed must be limited to 25 km/h.
 
Indeed d8veh, hence my double quotes (")(wich I just added because I had forgot to put them)
For the moment there is no street legal version of this motor, and I don't want to attract the attention of law inforcement by burning rubber while climbing a steep hill at 25km/h ;)
 
how do you post pictures of the motor....bonnie sent me the dimensions on the 100mm front v brake one..... looks like it is 132 mm tall.....so does that mean i would half that amount and i would need 132/2=roughly 66mm from my axle bolt to the fork of clearance?
 
No. The 132mm is the diameter of the spoke flanges, which are nowhere near your forks. The import bits are the sides of the motor. To be sure that your forks won't rub on the motor, you need about 55mm up from the centre of the drop-outs, where the width mustn't go below 100mm.

basically, if the drop--out is in line with the inside of the fork, you'll be OK. If the fork bulges inwards, just above the drop-out, it probably won't work. If you have steel non-suspension forks (recommended), you can bend them out and put a spacer on the axle to get clearance.
 
d8veh said:
No. The 132mm is the diameter of the spoke flanges, which are nowhere near your forks. The import bits are the sides of the motor. To be sure that your forks won't rub on the motor, you need about 55mm up from the centre of the drop-outs, where the width mustn't go below 100mm.

basically, if the drop--out is in line with the inside of the fork, you'll be OK. If the fork bulges inwards, just above the drop-out, it probably won't work. If you have steel non-suspension forks (recommended), you can bend them out and put a spacer on the axle to get clearance.

Another helpful explain d8veh. FYI, I had to bend my steel forks, but I researched and utubed it successfully. I was well within the rules of thumb on what you can get away with, and had a good outcome. Moral, don't let narrow, steel, fork separation turn you off right away. Research it. The bennies of a front hub are many......
 
file.php


This is the Cassette version of the 2-Speed (or as Xiongda call it, the "Double Speed") motor. It is supposed to take Shimano compatible cassettes.

As previously posted, the distance between opposite axle-mount faces is 145mm without disk brake flange, and an extra 10mm with, so:

5. for v-brake+cassette type freewheels 145mm
6. for disc-brake+cassette type freewheels 155mm
 
just bought a 155mm cassette version, pic show std 135mm dropouts.its fits in easily with just a little hand pressure.
just remember the supplied torque washers go on the outside of the frame.not like bafangs mxus which go inside.

The cassette screws into the side plate so I suppose it would be possible if bonnie sold the side plates with cassete to upgrade
from a freewheel.there plenty of axle sticking out on mine.

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After 3 years I have finally finished my dream bike build but I have a problem. I live in Seattle and I thought that this 2 speed set up would allow me to power up hills unassisted.

I need to know is there any way to tweak my set up to allow me to ascend steep hills unassisted.

Thanks
 
Deesjoint said:
I need to know is there any way to tweak my set up to allow me to ascend steep hills unassisted.

So you're using a throttle? - The amount of apparent "power" will depend on how much combined weight you're trying to raise up, and how steep your hill is.

Don't forget you have a 350W motor that is geared down to produce lots of torque - but it's not that much power (a bit less than 1/2hp raw power input to the motor), so your results will vary depending on the grade and the combined weight of everything.

Of course you have to make sure you have selected Low speed (or you're set to A = auto change) - give us more info...
 
My controller has me setting to "5" to implement the programming that allows me to shift, automatically. When I go to "6", I drop down to low, until I shift back to "5". Also, my unit is 48 volt, so I think I can get ~500 watts to the hub. Finally, what is your rolling radius? Mine is less than 8", so I have more push, less speed. Bonnie can send you the torque v rotational velocity table for your unit, and from that, you can estimate your "push". Then from THAT, your rolling weight, and the grades you will encounter, you can see if you can roll up them without pedaling. If you can't do the arithmetic/geeometry, I've seen apps/excel workbooks right in these fora. I made my own...
 
Deesjoint said:
After 3 years I have finally finished my dream bike build but I have a problem. I live in Seattle and I thought that this 2 speed set up would allow me to power up hills unassisted.

I need to know is there any way to tweak my set up to allow me to ascend steep hills unassisted.

Thanks
Yes there is, but what have you got? What speed and voltage motor do you have? Is it front or rear?
 
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