2016 IZIP E3 Peak battery and switch refurb

[Michael.f.horowitz]

Thanks ahead for anyone willing to help.

I have recently acquired a 2016 IZIP E3 Peak. I assumed it was 2014 since the SN# starts with 14. The previous owner gave it to a bike shop. Knowing I am looking for an ebike project, they gave it to me (as that project).I've since learned it is a 2016.

The bike has two problems that I have found. (I cannot order OEM parts for this bike.)

1. The buttons from the 4-button selection button pad for the control display (power, +, -, light) have "melted" being made from an inferior material to leave in the sunlight. I have scraped out the goo, and can depress the buttons with a small eyeglass-sized screwdriver. When energized (see below), this correctly affects the control display as intended. I intend to place small ball bearings or tiny ferrules on the buttons and cover each "hole" with a dollop of clear silicone to weatherproof and be flexible enough for me to press the buttons, by pressing the silicone blob and the small piece of metal beneath-- which will depress the tiny buttons on the PCB. In my mind, that works.
2. The battery will not hold a charge. The bike will work (display turns on) while the charger is plugged into the battery but not without. The battery is 11 years old, true, but a note that came with the bike claims the bike only has 50 total miles of travel. I have checked the fuse. I have disassembled the battery case, revealing the shrink-wrapped cells (39 - LG DBMG 11865 batteries with 2850 mAh each or 3 sets of 13 in series for 8.55 Ah).

I opened the plastic case for the battery. There's a BMS shrink wrapped with the batteries. There's a charging port, fuse, simple charge indicator, and key switch, in addition to the battery bundle. I flirted with the idea of DIY replacing the 39 cells with EVE 18650's at 3500mAh for about 10Ah. same size. Would fit. I have a background in solar electric, but not electronics. I don't have a good spot welder. I'm not 100% confident. I then attempted to locate an individual who would do this for me. Couldn't find anyone willing--too dangerous, they say.

Now I am likely going to order a downtube battery - 48 volt 13 Ah with a key and four pins. I will cut the wire to the cradle and solder and heat shrink to the new battery. The existing battery has four pins. Checking, the outside wires on the existing battery prongs are power -pos and neg- then there's two inside wires (white and blue) I assume are connected to a thermistor inside the battery. I assume.

Any help here, on the specific model, or in general would be appreciated before I order the $220 replacement battery, and certainly before I rewire the bike or do my silicone trick on the switch. Can the BMS be reset? Can I microcharge the batteries to give them something? Is that the reason they won't charge, too dead?

Pics are included of the battery case opened, and the control switch with the goo removed.

 

[Michael.f.horowitz]

More information. The charger works. 54.7 volts. The battery, without charging is 12.9 volts...way too low. I think the battery management is preventing charging because the battery is just too low. Is there a trick? The two wires (white, blue) I have learned are for reporting the SoC of the battery to the display, and if I replace the battery, I lose that function.

I also found 3 companies that will rebuild my old iZip battery with new Samsung cells giving it 20% more range for $500. Worth it?

So my choices: get rid of the bike, rebuild the battery for $500, or order a new battery for $220 and lose the "fuel gauge" battery monitoring on the display.

 

[rick_p]

Hi, I don't have time to leave a full response, but I have been down this road with a similar bike, a 2015 E3 Dash. The battery is wasted and there's no recovery possible without a rebuild. The good news about a rebuild (as you mentioned) is you would likely end up with a 10ah or more battery, which is a significant upgrade from the original 8.7ah it was rated for. The other good is, as you also noted, the display would display the charge level, which it won't if you go with an aftermarket battery.

Is a rebuilt battery worth it? Not to me, I went aftermarket and just use the lights on the battery. My E3 is my daily driver, I use it to commute 12 miles one-way to work and it gets up to 28mph between lights. So, the decision to repair or replace is yours, it's your time and money, if you like tinkering and saving money, than get it going, just note that the bolt locations on the down-tube may not line up with the new battery bracket. If you want something turn key and have the money to spend, there are some good deals out there due to the flood of ebikes on the market. I love my bike, but I also love tinkering, I love fabricating, I love saving money, and I have extra parts.

 

[Michael.f.horowitz]

Hi, I don't have time to leave a full response, but I have been down this road with a similar bike, a 2015 E3 Dash. The battery is wasted and there's no recovery possible without a rebuild. The good news about a rebuild (as you mentioned) is you would likely end up with a 10ah or more battery, which is a significant upgrade from the original 8.7ah it was rated for. The other good is, as you also noted, the display would display the charge level, which it won't if you go with an aftermarket battery.

Is a rebuilt battery worth it? Not to me, I went aftermarket and just use the lights on the battery. My E3 is my daily driver, I use it to commute 12 miles one-way to work and it gets up to 28mph between lights. So, the decision to repair or replace is yours, it's your time and money, if you like tinkering and saving money, than get it going, just note that the bolt locations on the down-tube may not line up with the new battery bracket. If you want something turn key and have the money to spend, there are some good deals out there due to the flood of ebikes on the market. I love my bike, but I also love tinkering, I love fabricating, I love saving money, and I have extra parts.

Thanks Rick, for the time you gave.

I do like to tinker, but on a less granular scale--I do electrical wiring, but not really electronics or PCB work or soldering. The same way I can frame a house, but I'm not a cabinet builder. Certainly not spot welding lithium ion cells. I hate the idea of something on the bike not working, but I guess I could live with no "fuel gauge" and 3500 mAh cells would be welcome, either way. I guess I do have the money, but didn't want to waste it. That said, an aftermarket battery . at 13Ah would be less than half the price of the rebuild. I do have another bike, a circa 2012 Specialized hybrid MB. I wanted to potentially retrofit that to start.

I started this journey, after buying my partner a Lectric trike. She has a medical condition that leaves her weak with bad balance, but she loves to go on rides. Now, I am interested in an e-bike for myself. I was looking at the Bafang mid drive BBS02 conversion which would give me 750w on that Specialized bike, but I have rim brakes right now. The mounts are there for the disc brakes. All told that'd be about $1200 with everything. And a bit or work ahead of me.

Then I was given this 2016 E3 Peak. It is only a 350 watt motor, but I have these tiers of spending:
1. Aftermarket on the E3 Peak: $250 or so and a 13 Ah battery with 350 watts and no throttle capability and no battery level on the display.
2. Rebuild the E3 Peak battery: $550 (with shipping) and a 10 Ah battery with 350 watts and no throttle capability but with the battery level on the display. Basically, better than new. The condition of the bike is excellent.
3. Retrofit: $1200 and convert my Specialized with the Bafang 750 watts and a throttle.
4. Brand new e-bike of some variety.

I guess my question is, if the E3 Peak would be worth $500 in the end or so with a 10 Ah battery. If I didn't like it I guess I could sell it. That's the easiest and refurbishing the bike does make me feel more responsible. I just wouldn't want to throw away $500.

 

[rick_p]

I didn't realize your hub is only 350 watt, that alone would be a deal breaker for me, too slow and not enough off the line power, mine is 500 watt and it's decent but not great. So, not that what I think matters, but my humble opinion would be to choose one of your other options and forget this bike. And I'd say that even if the battery rebuild were less money.

So for me, that rules out options 1 and 2. As for option 3, well, that is very personal, you're going to end up with a great bike, and more importantly, you'll be converting a bike you know and love, so definitely a consideration.

Option 4, the technology gets better every day, and it's been that way for quite some time, but to get into anything modern that is mid-drive with a motor that compares with the Bafang retrofit, you're looking at a lot more than $1200 unless you're looking at used. But like I said before, if money is no object, I think a factory bike (if you pick the right one) will out perform a home build, if performance is even a consideration.

 

[Michael.f.horowitz]

Not a hub motor on the E3 Peak, it's mid drive.

I'm not ready to drop $2k or more on a bike right now, especially one that I am not sure how much I will enjoy (use).

My Specialized Crosstrail needs disc brakes, a mid-drive motor (likely the Bafang), and a battery. More likely $1100.

I guess the question now is if what I can build for $1100 is significantly better than what I can buy for a similar price...you say yes, I hear.

 

[rick_p]

Oh wow, I didn't realize the E3 Peak was a mid-drive model, that changes everything. In a most unusual coincidence, I happen to own a Raleigh Tekoa mid-drive, which is an almost identical bike to yours, it also has a Currie Electro-Drive® (TranzX), Model M07 motor. I have used both a working original battery and an after-market battery on that bike. I will say this about it, it has surprising get up an go for a 350 watt motor, it surprised me, it must be the nature of mid-drive motors.

I wish others were adding feedback to this thread, I would like to hear more opinions that maybe agree or differ from mine about all of this. So, with that said, I will state that my humble opinion about getting your E3 Peak running has changed (increased in support of) because mid-drives are lighter, more well balanced, and at least mine came with a working air-shock up front with a 29" wheel, so that is a huge upgrade from my E3 Dash with a heavy rear wheel and crappy front shock.

One thing to note though, which is important, the torque sensor on my bike is very sensitive and a little unforgiving at times, and I have reason to believe (mentioned in a 2015 review) that this is the nature of this technology and not specific to my bike. This manifests itself in the following ways. It will take off with the slightest movement of the pedals sometimes, which can catch you off guard. And, it slams on the power when shifting gears while you accelerate, which may "seem" like a good thing, but it destroyed the ratchet in the rear cassette on my bike, which left me on the side of the road one time. After a painstaking effort to find a matching cassette replacement to keep the rear wheel original and a match with the front wheel, I have since gotten in the habit of backing off the pedal pressure while shifting gears to avoid the harsh slamming of the motor torque. All of this is manageable, the bike is fun to ride, but I just wanted to give you a heads up in case yours is the same way.

 

[Michael.f.horowitz]

Once again, short of anyone else chiming in, I appreciate your input. The Peak has a 27.5" wheel. The battery rebuild keeps everything intact and mostly original. I do have the selector buttons to fix, but I am confident in that.

It's really this:

1. $550 or so to ship and have my battery for the E3 Peak rebuilt (from Hi-C) BL17 Battery Rebuild. Result: Rebuilt 2014 E3 Peak with 350 watt mid drive and whatever problems weren't ironed out on that TranzX.
2. Put disc brakes on my 2012 Specialized Crosstrail (big expense- $200-300 more?) and fit it with a BAFANG BBS02B 48V 750W or a TONG-SHENG TSDZ8 48V 750W paired with a 13Ah battery (about $700) Heard the Bafang is more reliable and quieter, Tong-Sheng is torque sensing.
3. Keep the Specialized as is, get rid of the E3 Peak, buy an ebike new.

 

[Michael.f.horowitz]

So, the answer:

• I put a Tongsheng TSDZ8 mid-drive on my Specialized Crosstrail Sport (actually, 2010). I replaced the wheels and bought some Zoom hydraulic disc brakes. My local bike shop helped. They liked the brakes I picked.
• I get a note from my 30-year-old daughter that she is looking for an ebike to try. I decide I will buy a battery and rewire the E3 Peak for a two-wire connection. I will lose the built-in battery meter functionality of the E3's display, and buy a handlebar meter. This qualifies for her birthday present. It will cost me about $220-$230, less than half. I will increase the range by upping the Ahs.
• Today I add the EKD01 display -- that was backordered -- to my Crosstrail and finish the wiring. I already tested two days ago when the display arrived by temporarily connecting. The throttle works. My chain is off right now. I'm taking it to the bike shop to adjust or replace as soon as I am done routing the wires and neatening with zipties.

 

[Michael.f.horowitz]

All told, I spent $957. New wheelset, new chain, new brakes, new pedals, mirror, simple under seat tool bag, Tongsheng TSDZ8 motor kit with 13 Ah battery. Here's the kit and the resulting ebike (before the chain, mirror, and light):

 

[E-HP]

All told, I spent $957. New wheelset, new chain, new brakes, new pedals, mirror, simple under seat tool bag, Tongsheng TSDZ8 motor kit with 13 Ah battery. Here's the kit and the resulting ebike (before the chain, mirror, and light):View attachment 379642
View attachment 379643

Came out great! I don’t think Varstrom actually stocks the EKD01 display. I got the same kit, without the battery, and arrived in a couple of days, but the display took a couple of weeks and spent a few days in customs.
At some point down the line, after you get a few hundred/thousand miles on it, you might want to treat yourself to a decent suspension seatpost. And not the cheap pogo stick kind. Adds a lot of comfort.

Amazon.com : SR SUNTOUR SP12 NCX Suspension Seat Post with Protective Cover 27.2X350mm,Black : Sports & Outdoors

Amazon.com : SR SUNTOUR SP12 NCX Suspension Seat Post with Protective Cover 27.2X350mm,Black : Sports & Outdoors

a.co

Bigger tires can help smooth out the ride as well.

 

[Michael.f.horowitz]

Thanks, @E-HP

Two notable purchases, besides the TSDZ8 - which is awesome! Bionic legs are just what I was looking to feel!

The 700c wheelset - an admittedly and aptly named economy choice: Amazon.com : Economy 700c Disc/Rim Brake Wheel Set Hybrid Cross Gravel CST Traveller 700c x 38 Tires and Tubes! : Sports & Outdoors

And, the brakes: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09NC9CVSH?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

 

[Michael.f.horowitz]

Came out great! I don’t think Varstrom actually stocks the EKD01 display. I got the same kit, without the battery, and arrived in a couple of days, but the display took a couple of weeks and spent a few days in customs.
At some point down the line, after you get a few hundred/thousand miles on it, you might want to treat yourself to a decent suspension seatpost. And not the cheap pogo stick kind. Adds a lot of comfort.

Amazon.com : SR SUNTOUR SP12 NCX Suspension Seat Post with Protective Cover 27.2X350mm,Black : Sports & Outdoors

Amazon.com : SR SUNTOUR SP12 NCX Suspension Seat Post with Protective Cover 27.2X350mm,Black : Sports & Outdoors

a.co

Bigger tires can help smooth out the ride as well.

I am very happy with the outcome. Taking the time to research, carefully choosing components, and asking others with direct experience first was key. Patience young padawan.

"Varstrom" is on the splash screen when the EKD01 starts. So I do think they at least have an arrangement with the supplier. T'is true though that the kit arrived without the display, which arrived a week later. Maybe that happens for everyone who opts for that display. I am happy with the kit except the chain guard. Cheap plastic. Cheap enough that I stripped one of the tapped screw holes.

I don't think I'll wait for thousands of miles for that comfortable shock absorbing seat post. My 60-year old butt isn't as cushiony as it used to be. Thanks for the tip.

 

[Michael.f.horowitz]

Thanks ahead for anyone willing to help.

I have recently acquired a 2014 IZIP E3 Peak. I assume it is 2014 since the SN# starts with 14. The previous owner gave it to a bike shop. Knowing I am looking for an ebike project, they gave it to me (as that project).

The bike has two problems that I have found. (I cannot order OEM parts for this bike.)

1. The buttons from the 4-button selection button pad for the control display (power, +, -, light) have "melted" being made from an inferior material to leave in the sunlight. I have scraped out the goo, and can depress the buttons with a small eyeglass-sized screwdriver. When energized (see below), this correctly affects the control display as intended. I intend to place small ball bearings or tiny ferrules on the buttons and cover each "hole" with a dollop of clear silicone to weatherproof and be flexible enough for me to press the buttons, by pressing the silicone blob and the small piece of metal beneath-- which will depress the tiny buttons on the PCB. In my mind, that works.
2. The battery will not hold a charge. The bike will work (display turns on) while the charger is plugged into the battery but not without. The battery is 11 years old, true, but a note that came with the bike claims the bike only has 50 total miles of travel. I have checked the fuse. I have disassembled the battery case, revealing the shrink-wrapped cells (39 - LG DBMG 11865 batteries with 2850 mAh each or 3 sets of 13 in series for 8.55 Ah).

I opened the plastic case for the battery. There's a BMS shrink wrapped with the batteries. There's a charging port, fuse, simple charge indicator, and key switch, in addition to the battery bundle. I flirted with the idea of DIY replacing the 39 cells with EVE 18650's at 3500mAh for about 10Ah. same size. Would fit. I have a background in solar electric, but not electronics. I don't have a good spot welder. I'm not 100% confident. I then attempted to locate an individual who would do this for me. Couldn't find anyone willing--too dangerous, they say.

Now I am likely going to order a downtube battery - 48 volt 13 Ah with a key and four pins. I will cut the wire to the cradle and solder and heat shrink to the new battery. The existing battery has four pins. Checking, the outside wires on the existing battery prongs are power -pos and neg- then there's two inside wires (white and blue) I assume are connected to a thermistor inside the battery. I assume.

Any help here, on the specific model, or in general would be appreciated before I order the $220 replacement battery, and certainly before I rewire the bike or do my silicone trick on the switch. Can the BMS be reset? Can I microcharge the batteries to give them something? Is that the reason they won't charge, too dead?

Pics are included of the battery case opened, and the control switch with the goo removed.

View attachment 374791

View attachment 374792

Thanks ahead for anyone willing to help.

I have recently acquired a 2014 IZIP E3 Peak. I assume it is 2014 since the SN# starts with 14. The previous owner gave it to a bike shop. Knowing I am looking for an ebike project, they gave it to me (as that project).

The bike has two problems that I have found. (I cannot order OEM parts for this bike.)

1. The buttons from the 4-button selection button pad for the control display (power, +, -, light) have "melted" being made from an inferior material to leave in the sunlight. I have scraped out the goo, and can depress the buttons with a small eyeglass-sized screwdriver. When energized (see below), this correctly affects the control display as intended. I intend to place small ball bearings or tiny ferrules on the buttons and cover each "hole" with a dollop of clear silicone to weatherproof and be flexible enough for me to press the buttons, by pressing the silicone blob and the small piece of metal beneath-- which will depress the tiny buttons on the PCB. In my mind, that works.
2. The battery will not hold a charge. The bike will work (display turns on) while the charger is plugged into the battery but not without. The battery is 11 years old, true, but a note that came with the bike claims the bike only has 50 total miles of travel. I have checked the fuse. I have disassembled the battery case, revealing the shrink-wrapped cells (39 - LG DBMG 11865 batteries with 2850 mAh each or 3 sets of 13 in series for 8.55 Ah).

I opened the plastic case for the battery. There's a BMS shrink wrapped with the batteries. There's a charging port, fuse, simple charge indicator, and key switch, in addition to the battery bundle. I flirted with the idea of DIY replacing the 39 cells with EVE 18650's at 3500mAh for about 10Ah. same size. Would fit. I have a background in solar electric, but not electronics. I don't have a good spot welder. I'm not 100% confident. I then attempted to locate an individual who would do this for me. Couldn't find anyone willing--too dangerous, they say.

Now I am likely going to order a downtube battery - 48 volt 13 Ah with a key and four pins. I will cut the wire to the cradle and solder and heat shrink to the new battery. The existing battery has four pins. Checking, the outside wires on the existing battery prongs are power -pos and neg- then there's two inside wires (white and blue) I assume are connected to a thermistor inside the battery. I assume.

Any help here, on the specific model, or in general would be appreciated before I order the $220 replacement battery, and certainly before I rewire the bike or do my silicone trick on the switch. Can the BMS be reset? Can I microcharge the batteries to give them something? Is that the reason they won't charge, too dead?

Pics are included of the battery case opened, and the control switch with the goo removed.

View attachment 374791

View attachment 374792

I am offering this battery for free to anyone who needs it, along with the cradle and keys. Just pay shipping. Read my post above for details. It needs to be rebuilt and I have the link to the businesses that do this work. ~$500

 

[Michael.f.horowitz]

After building my own, I am now working on the 2014 IZIP E3Peak for my daughter. I will use a 3rd party battery of 13AH/48V to replace the 8.7AH battery that no longer works. It does not pay to shell out $550 to rebuild. However, this will render the battery SoC metering on the original bike screen unusable. I'd like to add a handlebar battery meter for her with a quick visual E-----F bar with some color. I will need to be able to fully disconnect it with a power button to avoid phantom load drain on the battery, and mount it to the handlebar. Anyone have a lead on a product? Something that looks like this:


This one does not fully power down, and has no handlebar bracket.

PS. No one took me up on my offer to give away the original Currie 48V 8.7AH battery and cradle/bracket--free. I still have it. The cells are shot, but restoration is possible.

 

[MxusMick]

48volts is a lot of speed, wear a helmet and be safe!

 

[Michael.f.horowitz]

I found this on Amazon. It has a memory that stores settings when off. Critical to keep the meter from draining the battery, and yet not needing setup every time the bike battery is turned on.

Amazon.com

Available as monotone or color. I bought a generic handlebar bracket for mounting.

 

[Michael.f.horowitz]

I am going to attempt to 3D print new buttons for my worn out controller. That's not for a couple of weeks. Will share.

 

[Michael.f.horowitz]

When done, my daughter will have a 350w mid-drive 2016 iZip E3 Peak - with 50 original miles and the optional throttle buttons, with a new 13Ah 48 volt battery. The original was 8.7Ah. New it was about $3K with the options.