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Controller switch buttons stopped working.. bypass?

J-Unit

🧲 New user
Joined
Jul 17, 2025
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6
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Sweet Home Oregon
Hey y'all, I picked up an Ebike off of Amazon and need some input. So picked up a ZDZA 1500w fat tire mountain bike and the control switch had rattled itself apart and the only button that works is the power button. I noticed that the buttons wasn't clicking like the were so, took the switch apart and the inner button components that are supposed to be attached to circuit board no longer are. Display works as well as the bike, but it's speed mode 1. Was wondering if anybody has any input as to wether changing modes and or settings is possible without the buttons on switch working.. possibly jumping wires to make selections or maybe bypassing everything and just having an on/off for battery and operate by a twist throttle (does have), without pas?1000001507.jpg1000001500.jpg1000001503.jpg
 
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How long ago - return?? - display replacements can be problematic due to communication protocols and data formatting differences so its often easier and cheaper just to replace the controller and display with a new matched pair.

A repair will provide config control but weather proofing the result could be an issue?? is it a separate 3x button (on up down) unit? -if so that can probably be fixed once the wiring has been decoded.. pics of the damage may help in identifying whats what.
 
How long ago - return?? - display replacements can be problematic due to communication protocols and data formatting differences so its often easier and cheaper just to replace the controller and display with a new matched pair.

A repair will provide config control but weather proofing the result could be an issue?? is it a separate 3x button (on up down) unit? -if so that can probably be fixed once the wiring has been decoded.. pics of the damage may help in identifying whats what.
 
I'm almost certain that I voided the warranty by opening up the controller switch for the LCD screen, but I will look into it. The switch has got +, -, power, light, horn, and, assist or something long those lines all on 1 switch separate from LCD screen. I'll get some pics of the damage as soon as I can. Also upon doing research on the situation I've found VERY little of the bike itself and it seemed as though the LCD screen has a completely different brand of bike name on it, which makes sense now that the options in the menu that popped up when held +,- didn't match what I was reading it should have for options.
 
The control system manual will generally be listed under the display make/ID not the bikes. But if your bike has instructions that differ from the generic display manual, well that would indicate the system has some 'custom' branding firmware loaded. This would limit you to buying a bike branded replacement display from the bike supplier only if even available

I suspect therefore a replacement control system might be the most efficient solution IF your bike employs standard connections. otherwise the replacement may also require some rewiring which would be a pita. the label on the 'silver box' aspect of your control system should provides all details to source a like for like replacement power wise.

if a simple dumb switch panel identifying wires/connections will allow the replacement with alternative switches but depending on your skills could look very diy and be a complete pita to weatherproof.
 
I've added photos of LCD screen, switch, and the damage inside switch. As you can tell, inside the switch the only inner button that didn't rattle apart is the power. There should be 4 more just like the one that's still there
 
FWIW, there appears to be enough of the pads and traces left that you could solder new switches on there, if you need to repair the one you have.

I thinik this one might be the best match, without doing dimension checks on it vs yours.

There are many others here:



Other ones I found before those:

These are probably too tall and wouldn't fit under the front of the casing (unless you raise it up with spacers, and use something to seal the gap left between the casing halves


These are a better match for the height (stil too tall, I think) but not sure they'll fit width wise
 
FWIW, there appears to be enough of the pads and traces left that you could solder new switches on there, if you need to repair the one you have.

I thinik this one might be the best match, without doing dimension checks on it vs yours.

There are many others here:



Other ones I found before those:

These are probably too tall and wouldn't fit under the front of the casing (unless you raise it up with spacers, and use something to seal the gap left between the casing halves


These are a better match for the height (stil too tall, I think) but not sure they'll fit width wise
Awesome, I'll look into this
 
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