48V 20AH battery for sale on ebay in USA any good?

That's what I thought, though it's a cool looking picture.

Can't wait to cut into the thing and reveal the innards.

My icharger1010 has cell level resistance measurement capability that I've goofed with some. Is that at all useful in helping to characterize a battery like this, or must one rip out a single cell and send it out for special testing to get a useful measure of the cells quality?
 
yep, wrong picture, but it is a 24P module, 120Ah/cell so maybe that is what they are developing to build EV packs from. connected through the flanges. but that is way overkill with the copper in that case too. weight requires attention to the current path too imo.

your 36V pack will have two layers of the 6S2P from looking at the picture warren took. but the cells in that picture look like they have threaded hole on the terminal like the headway. it will be interesting to find out if the cells are the type L with the tabs spot welded to ends.
 
I'm tempted. I think I might buy one of these over a ping battery. Not necessarily because of the price savings (I think this is only about $20 cheaper) but because of the speed in shipping. Ping says he can't get me a battery for 3 weeks while I think this guy can have a battery to me in 3-5 days.
 
Well, to hear John tell it: he's been selling these things on ebay for the past year and a half, and none have come back with a problem. I explicitly tried to pry a "broken one" out of him so that I could have cells for individual testing.

None.

No problems with chargers either.

Again, according to John, he's visited a number of factories and has chosen one of the highest quality to work with. And selling these at restricted margins in order to get established.

So maybe he's been incredibly lucky, or has good cells and good bms's, or none of his ebay customers every try to push the batteries beyond their safe C discharge rating {"more than a hundred sold"} - I don't know.

Like I say, one is on it's way.

Any recomendations as how I can test it (nondestructively) and provide a useful review would be greatly appreciated.

I'll read through other battery review posts to get a sense for what others have done and documented so's to do a decent job with the review (within limits of time and equipment and non-destructiveness).

All my controllers are like 20 amp jobs - is one issue.
 
this is different from the ping pack because they are cylindrical cells, not the pouch type ping uses.

that was what i meant about how they have a higher C rating, no reason for you to worry about have to test it, just if the BMS ends up exposed would appreciate a picture. if you can get a picture of how the cells are connected that would be useful too.
 
I wish suppliers revealed more about their suppliers. If I sold battery packs on ebay, I'd include discharge curves of each cell group for every battery pack I sold. Wouldn't take that much time over what should be the normal QC, and it'd provide a nice personal touch. Also it keep people from buying a pack and drawing max current till they kill of a cell.
 
Those fat bats look like these
file.php

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=27169#p392824
 
Re that pic, 20 of those would be nice to have... Nice solid paralell group.

Based on dimensions and weight, I still think that ebay listing on page one was for a pouch type pack, very similar to a ping. Should be good.
 
Sorry to butt in. Just curious... has the pack arrived? I'm thinking of ordering the 48v 10ah battery from them to upgrade from my SLA setup. Thanks
 
Not yet,

Probably today or tomorrow.

I'm out of town until Sat. and nothing will happen before then.

I'm trying to figure out how fancy i need to get for the testing. Have a 30 amp controller on the way and another cell-log. Considering the use of a cycle analyst/analogger combination (with GPS??) if cost and time spent can help me produce a better review.

I bet the review is a couple of weeks out.

Pictures of innards as soon as I can manage.
 
just make sure you break them in slowly and can keep them balanced. eventually we will learn, don't risk your warranty or try to 'test' it. just getting them used will help learn more about them. i am sure these are the same cells brent was using, but i never heard about them since from him.
 
Well, that batteries arrived well packaged. I had to opt for two 24v instead of the 48v that was not in stock. I don't want to take the shrinkwrap off just yet, due to the warranty. All in all, they seem solid enough. The charger connection isn't the greatest... just a make PC power supply connector with the wires soldered and heatshrinked on. A three pin round connector would work better, IMO.

I hooked them up to my Clyte 408 motor and Clyte Journey 3620 controller. Everything worked fine on Friday, but when I tried to go for a ride today, the controller wouldn't power up. I've read in these forums that this controller and motor should be able to handle 48v no problem. This doesn't seem to be the case for me. It may be the fact that I weight 230 lbs, making the total bike weight with me on it close to 300 lbs. Do you think this could have caused the problem? Too high amp draw? Never smelled or saw any smoke, but when I opened the controller a while later, it didn't smell "right". When applying power, I get 59v at the controller connector, but zero at the PC board connection. Odd....

I did notice that the controller has 13005 FETs. :(

Going to try a 36v/48v 25a controller next. Hopefully this one will hold up ok. I can't afford to buy a third one.
 
For those who are interested, I've just posted a short review of the 15ahr version of this battery.

Further reporting as events warrent.

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=27932
 
dnmun said:
sounds like a bad connection. you need to post up pictures of what you measured and where. also pictures of how you wired up the two 24V pack in series.
Click to expand...

Thanks, but the new controller fixed it (for the most part). I'm still going to keep the battery charged to less than 55v, since that's what the caps in the controller are rated for. Better safe than sorry. ;)

Now I'm working on another problem. Waiting for a new hall sensor for the motor. One won't toggle and is stuck closed. :(
 
I know a little bit about this guy John and his main company Keling Inc.....

As someone mentioned their main business is stepper motors and other stuff for the CNC machine market. John and his products are very well know over on cnczone.com, the main cnc hangout on the web...Keling Inc even has its own sub forum there.

There are some issues with language and communication, his spoken English is good, but sometimes trying to get written responses from him can be frustrating, partly from language and also partly because he is not really an expert in what he sells, although he is not completely clueless either. So do not expect super high levels of technical support.

He gets his stuff made in China, obviously, and from what I've heard he is shipping container loads of gear at a time.

He seems to make the effort to source better than average quality stuff, his stepper motors have a very good reputation.

Most importantly though, he is considered to be reliable and trustworthy, and the level of service is considered pretty good by most people who have purchased from him. The prices are good too.

I'll be going there in the next week or two to buy some stepper motors...if anyone wants me to have a nose around his battery operation, let me know what you want me to look out for :)
 
I noticed this morning that the bms's that cell man sells
http://www.emissions-free.com/catalog/i9.html

look very similar to the one inside the pack I opened up.
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=27932
bmscloseup.jpg


It would be nice to know something more about this thing.
 
he uses the headway BMS. this one does look similar because of that aluminum on top, but the heatsink would be on top of some aluminum blocks if it was the headway, and this has a different value for the shunt resistor.
 
If a BMS which will have a cooling plate, it may have a possibility that it will have large heat emission or a bit overloading.
In our testing, our BMS doesnt have too much heat. only a bit warm when it reach max continuous current after some time. Too much heat will be a bad signal to mosfet.

P.S. This is only a personal opinion. It does not include all similar BMS.
 
I havn't noticed any heat output off of the bms, never even gets warm. Though I'll keep an eye out for it from now on.

Design wise - Does the heat sink plate have any relation to the bms's individual cell-group balancing capacity?

In unbalanced situations - a bms might want to dump a bunch of heat from the full cell groups in order to allow the not-yet-fully-charged groups to catch up - but still keep the charger on.

I do this type of bleeding of cell groups manually sometimes - when i'm trying to get a badly balanced pack back into balance.
 
New to ebikes, but thought id chime in. I only have about 100mi on my keling 48v 20ah battery but it has worked just as expected. No heat and my charger and battery came with 3prong connectors. I put andersons on the other wires to connect to the controller. The shipping was quite fast; 4 days or so. BTW, Running on a lyen 9fet with 9c hub. I got my motor and brakes from ebikes.ca, the battery from golden oasis and the controller, CA, and couple other various things from Lyen. This forum was super helpful in picking the right retailers. Zero buyers remorse from a 3 of them. Thanks John!
 
Will regen work since I'm using two 24v batteries in series? I have the Lyen 12FET controller and wasn't sure if I should activate it. I don't know how each BMS will handle it.

Also, does anyone know the C rating for the 24v 10ah packs? I emailed John but haven't received a response yet.

Thanks!
 
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