48volt 750 watt parts replacement

jumpjr619

1 mW
Joined
Mar 3, 2025
Messages
14
Location
Stockton California
i have a 48 volt 750 watt fat tire ebike with a rear hub motor from amazon and i need to replace the controller nut im not sure which copntrollers will work right now it has an mn-05 model controller but i cant find one forsale online posted voltage is dc 48v max current 22+-2A speed set 1-4 3v brake input =low-level can someone please help me do i need a whole hit replacement since the throttle is shot also or what. the whole story goes something like this i got moisture in the lcd controller where i toggle up and down the speed level. and once it totally stopped working whe i pressed the power button i went online to find out hoe to bypasss this which i found if i splice a couple wires together it would turn the screen on which it did and after a while i wanted to replace the faulty screen but im a cheapskate and got one that wasnt identicle. i replaced it and it worked for a little bit so i turned it off got ready for work and when i went to leave it wouldnt power on so thats where im at i read somewhere i fried the controller so i want to replace it but i cant find an exact match and dont wanna frock up something more valuable like battery or motor. so what shold i do can i just bu a controller throttle display kiy and replace everything opr what. p[lease help
 
Here's the cables from the bike and the controller I bought to replace but it's clearly not gonna work cuz I don't have the right connectors I followed the same specs what am I missing here
 

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Do you have a pic of the controller label? Unless you shorted something playing around with wrong display, or your jumpering, you probably just need to stop being cheap and buy a compatible display.
No I definitely shorted something out I opened the controller and see in a few areas burnt components all melted and whatnot
 
Ya too bad there’s no pic of the stock controller label.
Have you looked for a shop in your area? That’s your best bet to get it running.
 

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You need to follow the motor cable to the controller, and take a pic of the connectors on the other end. You will be connecting the new controller to those connectors. Similarly, you will need to trace the cable for the throttle to the controller, and take a pic of the connectors on.
After identifying the connectors (don’t connect anything yet), you will be connecting the new controller with only the connectors essential to getting the motor running (battery input, motor phase wires, motor hall sensor connectors, throttle, and the new display. Look at your controller docs to see if it has a “self learning” connector. If not, you’ll need to do some manual matching of the conductors to get the motor running smoothly. Report back.
Once it’s running, you can start connecting the other peripherals (PAS, brake cutoffs, etc.) but likely not the lights, if they were controlled via the buttons for the display, so that would need to be solved separately.
So first step, if you’re up to all of this, is to trace the wires and post clear pics.
 
Maybe go to Green Bike Kit and search their controllers. They have pictures of the connectors, so match that to what you have, at least as far as the motor connections. Buy with at least a display, if not all the rest of the do-dads. They have worked well for me as a vendor, but they are across the big pond and we all know what that means.
 
You need to follow the motor cable to the controller, and take a pic of the connectors on the other end. You will be connecting the new controller to those connectors. Similarly, you will need to trace the cable for the throttle to the controller, and take a pic of the connectors on.
After identifying the connectors (don’t connect anything yet), you will be connecting the new controller with only the connectors essential to getting the motor running (battery input, motor phase wires, motor hall sensor connectors, throttle, and the new display. Look at your controller docs to see if it has a “self learning” connector. If not, you’ll need to do some manual matching of the conductors to get the motor running smoothly. Report back.
Once it’s running, you can start connecting the other peripherals (PAS, brake cutoffs, etc.) but likely not the lights, if they were controlled via the buttons for the display, so that would need to be solved separately.
So first step, if you’re up to all of this, is to trace the wires and post clear pics.
can i cut off and connect matching wires and just get rid of the stupid plug connectors. like for example my controller has an xt60 battery plug but the new controller has like a push connector. would i be alright if i jus cut the ends off and strip the ends and solder them together and call it good is thi safe to do and will it work
 
can i cut off and connect matching wires and just get rid of the stupid plug connectors. like for example my controller has an xt60 battery plug but the new controller has like a push connector. would i be alright if i jus cut the ends off and strip the ends and solder them together and call it good is thi safe to do and will it work
Sure, as long as you understand that colors don't mean anything when it comes to connecting ebike components, since there are no standards, so I guess you could try random matching. You can always do whatever you want, at your own risk. Good luck!
 
Yes we do this all the time. Just be careful to expose one wire at a time, no short circuits, especially with the battery leads!

How good are your soldering/ crimping skills?
 
Pic 4 appears to be the JST connector for the hall sensors, going to the motor. The 5 wires are 5V, gnd, and hall sensor signal wires for the three phases. The pic of your stock controller shows the corresponding JST 5 pin connector, with the same red, black, yellow, blue, green conductors.
Your new controller uses the Molex/spade style connector (2x3), which may or may not have all 6 conductors populated, depending on if it's made to work with geared motors, that require a speed sensor for speed. Your existing connectors don't support a speed sensor. You could cut off the connectors and move the old one to the new controller, but as I mentioned before, you can't count on the blue, yellow, and green wires to match the correct phase order, since there are no real standards. If you make it to that point, then you may need this guide, and flow chart;

Note: these are all assumptions, since you didn't provide the information that I requested in my post. Good luck!
 
no u know I'm sorry please. I need and appreciate your help, time and patience, if your still willing I'll do just as you said and report back sorry I'm u responsive at times. I got a sick family member that gets majority of my attention
 
No hurry here. You could probably go with what I wrote, but not without risk. The quality of advice here is directly related to the quality of information available. I provide what I can with that information. People can be reluctant to provide advice without enough info. I don't ask for a ton of details up front, but ask a question or two to see if the info is available, before I start typing a lot (slow typing on my tablet). May not seem important, and it's a small ask, but the controller label actually provides good info.
I can't see all of the connector and wires clearly enough to be sure, but provided my best guess based on what I assume I'm seeing. Post back when you have the time. I know how tough it is caring for a family member.
 
No hurry here. You could probably go with what I wrote, but not without risk. The quality of advice here is directly related to the quality of information available. I provide what I can with that information. People can be reluctant to provide advice without enough info. I don't ask for a ton of details up front, but ask a question or two to see if the info is available, before I start typing a lot (slow typing on my tablet). May not seem important, and it's a small ask, but the controller label actually provides good info.
I can't see all of the connector and wires clearly enough to be sure, but provided my best guess based on what I assume I'm seeing. Post back when you have the time. I know how tough it is caring for a family member.
 

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Pic 2, post 22 to Pic 1, post 4:
Red T-plug battery connector, black and red, connect to individual thick red and black bullet connectors.
Pic 2, post 22 to Pic 5, post 4:
The 6 pin molex/spade connector connects to the 6 pin JST (red and black need to match. Blue green red order will need troubleshooting)
The 3 thick blue green bullet connectors connect to blue green red (order will need troubleshooting)
The new display shouldn’t be an issue since you bought them as a set, so connect to the new controller.

If you’re up to could post a pic of the JN wiring diagram seen in the background of pic 1, post 4, then the throttle (now) and PAS (later)will be easier to figure out.

Once the throttle is connected, then we’ll go through matching the hall and phase wiring. If you’re lucky, the JN diagram will show a self learning wire. If so, that will eliminate the troubleshooting/matching need.
 
Okay seriously I appreciate your time and patience but I'm not looking to tweak out on this thing can you please just tell me what I need to get this frocker running if all I have to start building with is the rear hub motor
 
Pic 2, post 22 to Pic 1, post 4:
Red T-plug battery connector, black and red, connect to individual thick red and black bullet connectors.
Pic 2, post 22 to Pic 5, post 4:
The 6 pin molex/spade connector connects to the 6 pin JST (red and black need to match. Blue green red order will need troubleshooting)
The 3 thick blue green bullet connectors connect to blue green red (order will need troubleshooting)
The new display shouldn’t be an issue since you bought them as a set, so connect to the new controller.

If you’re up to could post a pic of the JN wiring diagram seen in the background of pic 1, post 4, then the throttle (now) and PAS (later)will be easier to figure out.

Once the throttle is connected, then we’ll go through matching the hall and phase wiring. If you’re lucky, the JN diagram will show a self learning wire. If so, that will eliminate the troubleshooting/matching need.
This doesn't make any sense to me whatsoever can u please just provide a link of a new kit I can buy to go with my 48 volt battery XT-60 connector and my 750 watt motor please my job is riding on me getting this done by the time I go back to work so I need a compatible kit and I NEED IT ASAP PLLLLLEEEEEEAASASSSSSEEE
 
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