60V top speed vs 48V top speed

Gloop

10 W
Joined
May 20, 2015
Messages
73
Location
Victoria BC
I am currently getting a top speed of 45kmh (flat ground) out of my 25 amp controller 48V battery....what kind of top speed can i expect to get with 60V?
Will upgrading to 40 amp controller increase my top speed?
 
From 48 to 60 will increase 5km/h from looking at the motor simulator on ebikes.ca.
I thought amps would only increase torque, but by the motor simulator looks like the speed increases too.

Just play around with the motor simulator.
http://www.ebikes.ca/tools/simulator.html
 
With the increased amps, you can get to the higher speed faster or maintain the higher speed into headwind because the power required increases exponentially the faster you go (wind becomes a real issue, etc.).
 
Increasing amps can increase speed, because just increasing volts when amps is moderate (20 ish) can mean not enough total watts to reach full potential for that voltage.

Example, 72v 20 amps controller got me 35 mph, while 72v 40 amps could briefly get me to 40 mph. With 9c type 9x7 motor. Doing the math, 1500w from 72v 20 amps simply would not be enough watts to hit 40 mph. It gets harder and harder to get 5 mph more speed the faster you go. 0-25 mph easy, after that, it starts to take a lot of watts.

So its very likely a 60v 40 amps controller will get you more speed than 60v 20 amps.

Conversely, if you hit 30 mph now, a 40 amps 48v controller would not add a lot of speed except on hills or in the wind. 20 amps is enough to go 30 mph, so adding amps won't add much more than 1-2 mph more.

Its just another one of those "it depends on" answers. Adding just amps may not increase top speed much, or any. but having twice the power when you come to a hill, or in the wind, can definitely increase your average speed for an entire ride. So just adding amps can shorten a commute for sure. Faster up hills, faster to get to speed, but much worse range if you ride wide open the whole ride.
 
The faster you go, the more Amps you need to fight resistance. Extra volts are pushing your motor to spin faster, but it will only as much as it can pull enough power to do the extra work.

When you have no throttle sag, meaning 7/8 throttle is still slower than full throttle, it does mean that your Amp vs volt balance is set high enough for the load.
 
I have a Cystallyte H35 that can take up to 2000W. I am planning on getting 40 amp controller because i want towing power on tour and more uphill speed.

I typically cycle 30 km a day, on the highway at full throttle and my ride takes me 20-25 minutes each way.
I was considering 60 Volt to reduce the commute time. Apparently though it would only reduce my commute by about 4 minutes.

I currently own two batteries that come on my daily commute, a 25 amp 48V11Ah Ezee and a 40amp Ping48V15Ah. I need to buy two more batteries for tour and need to decide between two 48V15Ah or two 60V10Ah.
The advantage of three 48V: I can parallel the three batteries on tour, reducing charge time, and i can carry spare cellsand BMS and soldering iron to fix damaged battery on tour. Watthours are also 250 higher.
The advantage of two 60V: I can commute 4 minutes faster each day.
Maybe 72 volt is the answer? Sadly I don't know how to build batteries.
 
Gloop said:
I have a Cystallyte H35 that can take up to 2000W. I am planning on getting 40 amp controller because i want towing power on tour and more uphill speed.

I typically cycle 30 km a day, on the highway at full throttle and my ride takes me 20-25 minutes each way.
I was considering 60 Volt to reduce the commute time. Apparently though it would only reduce my commute by about 4 minutes.

I currently own two batteries that come on my daily commute, a 25 amp 48V11Ah Ezee and a 40amp Ping48V15Ah. I need to buy two more batteries for tour and need to decide between two 48V15Ah or two 60V10Ah.
The advantage of three 48V: I can parallel the three batteries on tour, reducing charge time, and i can carry spare cellsand BMS and soldering iron to fix damaged battery on tour. Watthours are also 250 higher.
The advantage of two 60V: I can commute 4 minutes faster each day.
Maybe 72 volt is the answer? Sadly I don't know how to build batteries.

I would say definitely upgrade your controller to 40A first before you decide on the next set of batteries to buy (Dont want to make the wrong purchase). But the voltage question depends on your windings... I consistently ran 50km/h in commuting conditions (flat/mild uphill etc.) with 58.8V @40A however that was on my old MAC10T on a 29er. At top speed you physically couldnt pedal as fast as this thing was going with 11t rear and 46t front chainring.
 
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