lookingelectric said:
So, I assume that the three wires shown are the power wires, rather than anything having to do with the hall-effect lines. It looks like I need to cut into two of the power lines and connect them with a switch for braking. Which two isnt clear, though? Do I really need a long coil, or can I just use a few high-ohm resistors on something thermally conductive?
What happens if both the throttle and the "brake" are activated at the same time? Do they fight each other, or do I get "power braking"?
Would rear torque arms be required for this?
Yes, the three wires are the phase wires. I don't think it matters which two you short out.
The coil of wire is a resistor. We use wire because it's the cheapest resistor you can get. You could use (low ohm, not high) resistors, but you'd need quite a few to dissipate enough power, even if you used 5W resistors.
They'd fight each other. You'd be trying to feed power to the motor to speed it up, while at the same time trying to slow it down. Nothing too drastic should happen (since the controller is current limited), but you'd be wasting a lot of power.
Depending on the resistance of the wire, you could have some serious torque going into the drops. Personally, I wouldn't even think about doing this without torque arms.
lazarus2405 said:
Link, that's great to know! I'm not the only one! How are your batteries and controller mounted? How hast fast you gone on that suspension, and what tires do you use? Did you add any torque arms, and if so, what sort? Any pictures of your setup? I'd be very interested to see them.
They aren't. I stuff them in a backpack. The power and throttle wires connect very discreetly under the seat via a modified throttle connector (painted black) stuck to a pair of Powerpoles.
I've never tested speed formally, but I should be doing just over 30mph on 48V. Feels very smooth.
Stock tires with Slime'd inner tubes. They've saved me from a few flats.
No torque arms yet (front hub, eep!). Haven't got any way to put any on without them being ugly. I'd like to weld an extra steel plate cut to the shape of the drop, but I have no way of doing that.
No pics, sorry. I don't own a camera, and probably won't for a while. Picture a front hub and that's about the only noticeable difference from stock, since the batteries and controller are in the backpack.
Link said:
Front drops are 6mm. Rear drops are 8mm. Both are steel.
I take that back. The rear are aluminum. The magnet I was checking them with was attracted to a washer on the derailleur mount. They are pretty thick, though.
ngocthach1130 said:
Not sure if the S-40 might have same style frame but smaller size or not, but i'm 5'9" and i can't properly adjust the bike for comfort. Setting the seat so my leg is fully extend and i can't touch the ground when stop. I tried adjusting the spring so the suspension is drop and lowered but then there's slack in the spring and when hit a drop the suspension drop down then bump up and smack the spring stopper. Stock seats is hard as sitting on rocks. So make sure you get better seats. Bike come with shimano spitfire shifter so it will easily clear your throttle. Will not need to deal with annoying configuration of switching out twist shifter.
If you can't adjust it for comfort, then it's probably not the same frame. I'm 6'1" and can adjust it to being too tall and too short. Never had to adjust the suspension.
Yes, I swapped out the seat long ago for the squishiest thing I could find. Big difference.
I don't know what the S-40 came with, but adjusting it for clearance wasn't too much of a pain. I'm using a half-twist throttle.
