According to this post : endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=31946 and the chips' datasheet, there is an overdrive mode (120% ??). Has anyone tried to ground a few pads on these boards ? Also is there a difference with the two low speed pads (M2 & SX) ?
72v 1500W 40A Hua Tong CA08 XM06AD_P04.1 controller
- Thread starter wesnewell
- Start date
I've modded my shunt tonight and it's crazy ! I can't measure the current since I don't have a wattmeter. My battery is now going down pretty fast so I guess I added to much on the shunt. I added braid and solder to the shunt to keep it from melting and creating shorts. Heree are some pics :
iovaykind
10 kW
You added a lot 
I haven't seen anyone add so much it connects the different shunts togthet lol
I haven't seen anyone add so much it connects the different shunts togthet lolThe Mighty Volt
1 MW
What sort of people mod shunts BEFORE they own a wattmeter 
Well I decided to double half the shunt length with braid and solder. I've calculated it would give me +50 % of the current. I've wrapped the 3 shunts with "unsoldering braid" so none of them have a lower resistance than the other and therefore carry more current. All of my shunts carry roughly the same amount of current so there won't be any meltdown or what so ever. Sorry for my bad english we speak french in Montreal.
Well the acceleration is more than crazy now, let's say insane. Since I'm FWD I have to lean forward not to get the wheel to spin. I'd say the 10-30 km/h is the quickest part of my acceleration curve. Lots of fun but if I go out to buy milk I doubt I'll have to come back with my legs heheh
Yes my bike has a steel fork and two torque arms. I'm pretty sure this setup will last. I might remove some extra solder tonight but I'll let the copper braid in place. Otherwise the front tire will need replacement next week... I'll measure my 0-60 km/h when my bike computer arrives. I just wanted to get the max power out of this 33$/37$ controller and let me tell you this is the best bargain ever !
Why don't you order a wattmeter? I'm really curious how much current are you pulling with that much solder. Also, how hot controller gets? And what kind of batteries and what gauge wires are you using to connect batteries and controller?
I already own a watt meter but I don't want to plug it between 2 batteries because my bag barely closes with all the wires and batteries inside. I just don't want to bother reconnecting everything. I run my 9c 2806 with 18s lipo (6 x 5000 mah turnigy 20c (41$ each=bargain)). This setup is of course above my wattmeter voltage limit (60v) and connected by a mix of 10 AWG and 12 AWG so lets say 11AWG. The controller and the motor runs hot but not too hot to touch. The land is flat in here so I don't think it will overheat.
Rumberopie
10 mW
- Joined
- Aug 12, 2011
- Messages
- 22
Today i opened my controller,it's the new board revision with the 4710 FET.
New Board:
The FET:
My removable mod for shunt:
I cut unnecessary wire:
I tested the mod controller for 10 km with 100V10ah battery and CHM 48V1000W.
Now accelleration is very impressive.CHM scream!!! :lol:
New Board:
The FET:
My removable mod for shunt:
I cut unnecessary wire:
I tested the mod controller for 10 km with 100V10ah battery and CHM 48V1000W.
Now accelleration is very impressive.CHM scream!!! :lol:
Wow Rumberopie, nice job ! How come i haven't tought about this for my shunt mod... I guess you're another satisfied customer with this cheap and powerfull controller ? Have you grounded a few pads for others function (low power, regen, etc...) ?
Rumberopie
10 mW
- Joined
- Aug 12, 2011
- Messages
- 22
Second run with hill climbing! I go up amazing, but the controller is hot, too hot.
The start is still fantastic with power whilie!!!
I thinking to reduce the shunt mod for reduce FET high temp.
Tommorow another test run.
The start is still fantastic with power whilie!!!
I thinking to reduce the shunt mod for reduce FET high temp.
Tommorow another test run.
mike662
10 W
Has anyone tried the 5v bus on the board to see if it supplies a constant 5V supply? I would like to run a headlamp off of this if possible. I would find this out on my own controller but I don't have my battery's yet and I still need to mod my meanwells to supply the proper current and voltage. Thanks in advance!
stewrobb
1 W
Yes, Reverse (L) gets connected to ground for reverse, which is of course only at partial speed.
There has been much talking about Regen and how the newer version controller seems to lack it (apparently 'X' is wheel lock), so I never attempted. Today I was riding along at ~65km/h (delta mode) down a small hill when I came up on a red light. I started to engage my rear brake and immediately heard crunching and then metal dragging. I stopped and looked back at the hub motor and realized the drum brake housing got spun around the motor, completely tearing it in half and destroying my rear brakes (the front brakes barely work to make matters work). I luckily had tools on me at the time and removed the rear wheel and took out the floating (scraping) brake pads. At least it rode smoothly, but there was absolutely no stopping power, a very dangerous thing in Toronto.
I decided that I had to figure out the regen on this controller, otherwise it was back to a 60v max (63v caps) 1000w controller with regen stock. I pulled the controller out and wired up a bunch of pads. I ended up with pad 'X', reverse, speed limiter, and cruise. I tested the X pad and it seemed as though it was just a wheel lock, which was discouraging. The real question is this, which way is the current flowing when the motor is running and when X is engaged. I put the bike on its stand and I hooked up an Ammeter to the positive battery line and the controller power input. When I applied power to the motor, the ammeter showed a negative number from 1 to 8 amps no load, but when I engaged X, the value changed to a positive reading, between 0 and 2 amps, although the current would be higher if the speed was being maintained by the momentum of the vehicle and rider. This concludes that 'X' is indeed Regenerative Braking WAHOOOOO.
I'm just not exactly sure how the wheel is locked so solidly, I will take measurements real world (loaded) tomorrow to verify my findings.
I ended up removing the brake line and rewiring the rear brake handle for regen. Now my front brake is independent of regen, as using the front brake will not activate regen.
It got dark before I was able to completely reassemble the bike, so I will do it in the morning, give her a spin, and report back.
There has been much talking about Regen and how the newer version controller seems to lack it (apparently 'X' is wheel lock), so I never attempted. Today I was riding along at ~65km/h (delta mode) down a small hill when I came up on a red light. I started to engage my rear brake and immediately heard crunching and then metal dragging. I stopped and looked back at the hub motor and realized the drum brake housing got spun around the motor, completely tearing it in half and destroying my rear brakes (the front brakes barely work to make matters work). I luckily had tools on me at the time and removed the rear wheel and took out the floating (scraping) brake pads. At least it rode smoothly, but there was absolutely no stopping power, a very dangerous thing in Toronto.
I decided that I had to figure out the regen on this controller, otherwise it was back to a 60v max (63v caps) 1000w controller with regen stock. I pulled the controller out and wired up a bunch of pads. I ended up with pad 'X', reverse, speed limiter, and cruise. I tested the X pad and it seemed as though it was just a wheel lock, which was discouraging. The real question is this, which way is the current flowing when the motor is running and when X is engaged. I put the bike on its stand and I hooked up an Ammeter to the positive battery line and the controller power input. When I applied power to the motor, the ammeter showed a negative number from 1 to 8 amps no load, but when I engaged X, the value changed to a positive reading, between 0 and 2 amps, although the current would be higher if the speed was being maintained by the momentum of the vehicle and rider. This concludes that 'X' is indeed Regenerative Braking WAHOOOOO.
I'm just not exactly sure how the wheel is locked so solidly, I will take measurements real world (loaded) tomorrow to verify my findings.I ended up removing the brake line and rewiring the rear brake handle for regen. Now my front brake is independent of regen, as using the front brake will not activate regen.
It got dark before I was able to completely reassemble the bike, so I will do it in the morning, give her a spin, and report back.
iovaykind
10 kW
I just hope that it's smooth, others have said that the regen is linear and not smooth and jolts you forward right when you engage it. Regen that isn't smooth isn't a good story. But still looking forward to your report.
mike662
10 W
Glad to hear this too! Can't wait to hear about your findings.
iovaykind
10 kW
Harsh to the point where it was uncomfortable anfelt like it was hurting the motor right?
Gordo
100 kW
iovaykind said:
I am guessing you need a variable voltage for smooth regen/braking. Some fellows use a twist throttle on the left hand grip or a thumb throttle. Using X, wheel lock for braking, may not be a smart move. The energy for stopping the bike is being dissipated as heat in the motor, instead of charging the battery.
iovaykind
10 kW
stewrobb, if you could take a video of this that would be great, so people can see/hear the regen and see if it really is regen.
stewrobb
1 W
This is very bizarre, I am sorry to report that I am indeed wrong, X is wheel lock. The weird part is that some regen takes place before the wheel is locked, that's what gave me that false positive while on the stand.
I hooked up an ammeter between the power and batter as previously stated, and took it for a ride (10A max meter so I took it super easy). What happens when you engage X is that for a short moment a decent amount of current comes back into the batteries, and then the phase wires are shorted (also check with a multimeter to the phase wires). This is interesting, as I got readings up to 4 amps regen, albeit briefly. Not sure exactly what that means. I took it out for 30km and used my front brake most of the way, but had to use the wheel lock a couple times to stop in time, I cringed every time, it is a scary thing to dissipate that much power into the already hot overvolted motor windings.
This is such a dissapointment, I really thought it worked. I'll have to replace the hua tong, it works wonders, but without regen it's as good as useless to me. I haven't given up yet however, and will begin probing the controller once I switch it out with a regen model.
Today I think I am going to soup up my old 48v 1000W 15 FET BMS controller (stock regen), put some 4110's and 100v caps in it, guessing I'm going to have to modify the LVC as well, hopefully regen works at that voltage, may need to figure even more out.
If anybody has a blown hua tong, and are willing to butcher it, cut off all the wires and get clean pictures of both sides of the board. One of the big challenges with that controller is tracing the electronics through all of those wires, it would be a big help to the collective effort of english Hua Tong users.
I hooked up an ammeter between the power and batter as previously stated, and took it for a ride (10A max meter so I took it super easy). What happens when you engage X is that for a short moment a decent amount of current comes back into the batteries, and then the phase wires are shorted (also check with a multimeter to the phase wires). This is interesting, as I got readings up to 4 amps regen, albeit briefly. Not sure exactly what that means. I took it out for 30km and used my front brake most of the way, but had to use the wheel lock a couple times to stop in time, I cringed every time, it is a scary thing to dissipate that much power into the already hot overvolted motor windings.
This is such a dissapointment, I really thought it worked. I'll have to replace the hua tong, it works wonders, but without regen it's as good as useless to me. I haven't given up yet however, and will begin probing the controller once I switch it out with a regen model.
Today I think I am going to soup up my old 48v 1000W 15 FET BMS controller (stock regen), put some 4110's and 100v caps in it, guessing I'm going to have to modify the LVC as well, hopefully regen works at that voltage, may need to figure even more out.
If anybody has a blown hua tong, and are willing to butcher it, cut off all the wires and get clean pictures of both sides of the board. One of the big challenges with that controller is tracing the electronics through all of those wires, it would be a big help to the collective effort of english Hua Tong users.
