72v 1500W 40A Hua Tong CA08 XM06AD_P04.1 controller

[Zenid]

FYI:
Here's the Hua Tong ("generic") controller info page from my upgrade guide, for what it's worth.
http://zenid10.wordpress.com/catego...3-4-controllers/3-4-1-generic-72v-controller/

 

[Scottyf]

I've also brought one of these cheaper 72v controllers to run with a geared bafang. As the 40amp peak is far to high I intend to cut one of the shunts to bring the current hopefully down to a more acceptable level.

I'm hoping that once I cut the one shunt I should only see peaks of roughly 26amp (+/-2amps).

Does anyone foresee any problems with the controller in me doing so? I've read the full 37 pages and noted someone also had a similar idea. However as I would only be running 18s2p (66.6v pack 10ah) it doesn't have a huge amount of miles at speeds of 30mph+/-3mph. (No load speed should be 36mph).

I'd like to not kill my range to much as currently with pedalling I acheive around average of 20watts per mile and commute is flat but 23mile round trip.

As this looks to be a decent controller with alot of features (Most of which I won't actually use. I just want phase wires and throttle. Job Done). But is cheap and i have Lipo and a spare few controllers so this would be my high speed one (Not that high speed comapred to a few members but I ride a hybrid hardtail so don't want to push to quickly on it).

 

[whereswally606]

I had some success today with getting one of my controllers working and im pretty chuffed, so chuffed that i made a little video to convince others about these little controllers. nothing like seeing one power up a motor to get other motivated. Anyway thanks again to the guys on the thread fleshing out the details. The FAQ type sheet helped lots in checking the blink codes and wiring.

as promised

[youtube]pB-qSk-b4aU[/youtube]

Next time ill probably work out what i want to say in advance of filming but you get the idea, it works woop!

 

[Scottyf]

Very nice whereswally, just make sure you get those torque arms secured properly!

 

[modder]

Ok guys, i'm up in Vancouver so i've gone lithium manganese (LiMn2O4) 60v 20ah + 24v 20ah

the 60v actually is charged to 67.2V

and the 24v is actually charged to 26.88V

so total is 94.08 volts

Do you think i can push it higher with a 36V instead of 24V ??

if i go 60v + 36v it is only 96v

but if you factor in actual ratio of 96 volts x 1.12V

it equals 107.52 VOLTS

is that pushing it for this controller?

it cost me around $800 for these 84 volts (*1.12v=94.08v actual)

 

[modder]

I have question X about my controller.
Well read the FAQ, it will guide you through the basics of this controller.

Well what is this Hua Tong OTO100?
That is the generic seller name for an expansive series of controllers built by Hua Tong/Ranton manufacturing. The majority of members bought their boards for ~3X.XX USD from dhgate or alibaba.
They also sell on ebay for 5X.XX USD on eBay.

Why is the cost so low?
Well primarily due to the miracle of chinese manufacturing. The downside is that you have no idea what you are getting. Explained further later.

What is this constant talk about different boards and dates of manufacturing?
The first known iteration of the board, CA08 XM06AD_P04.1 on the silkscreen, is the board being discussed
There have been 3 other iterations since (2nd Generation, C-D3.1, 4th generation)
The first generation and second generation boards were broadly similar. Cost saving measures at manufacturing lead to the mosfet switch.
The third generation was a extreme departure from the first 2 generations. New cpu and additional pads
Fourth generation

What type of MOSFETs are used?
CA08 XM06AD_P04.1 board IRFB4410 Mosfets were used
In later revisions of the board IRFB4710 Mosfets were used

What features does this board have?
Many of the boards features are only accessible by opening the controller and grounding pads to activate features

List of pads (First and Second Generation):
'X' is wheel lock in later versions, regen in the CA08 XM06AD_P04.1
'L' is reverse
'M2' is low speed**
'DS' 'SL' kill switch
'Q' is for cruise control

'SD' is disable motor (low speed) ?
'SL' is Low brake
'ZL' - 1:1 help ?

*please note that the pads names change between revisions
** only the 3rd generation has a three speed switch

Pads for the C-D3.1
Functions 1-8: need help

This board can not be run in sensorless mode.

How do I turn it on?
Connect the small red wire to V+ (pack positive) This provides power to the low voltage section of the board

Is there a HVC?
No, there is not. Usually over voltage situations lead to blown mosfets and gate drivers so use higher voltage with caution.

Then what is the highest voltage that I can run?
Many members have reported success with voltages at or slightly higher than 100V
Many believe that 22S ~92V is optimal as it allows for regen and is safer for the mosfets.
The mosfets and capacitors are rated at 100V

LVC?
~60V? Easily modifiable.

Is there Regen?
Pack Voltage must be under <90V, so 22S is optimal. I've never actually run regen could someone cover this?

Does it have programming ability?
Definitly no to the programming. Although it has a programming header in every revision of the controller you would need to know the cpu and be able to dump the firmware, not to mention figure out the machine code.

Will it run my motor?
If your motor is a brushless 3 phase motor then yes!

Is there a Cycle Analyst plug.
Nope. A member has been able to create a custom CA plug

What are all the plugs? I did not receive documentation.

Alarm (4 pin, 3 populated): One wire has 5v, another has your battery + voltage, and the third is ground. Use it for a voltmeter if you'd like

Hall Sensor (6 pin, 5 populated)

Throttle (3 pin): Warning! – Wires in connector may be reversed.

60/120 wires: Auto its 60, if your motor runs weird, try 120 by connecting the two wires together. If you don't need them connected, simply snip them away.

Ignition: This can either be wired to a switch, that goes to your power supply +, or you can connect it directly to power supply + if you wish to have no switch for ignition.


This picture needs to be cleaned up

Cruise Control: Wire a momentary switch to it, and lead it to ground. When pressed, cruise control is enabled.

Voltmeter: This is simply wires that tell you how much battery/pack voltage you have, so you can lead these to a voltmeter if you want, or snip them away. Another use of the voltmeter wires is a DC-DC converter so you can run your aux lights/fans.

Controller not working?

Blink codes
1 flash: Standby, motor stopped
2 flashes: Throttle input fault or HV brake active
3 flashes: Locked rotor (start speed protection)
4 flashes:
5 flashes: High side FET shorted
6 flashes: Hall sensor fault
7 flashes:
8 flashes: Under voltage (LVC) active

Ebrake high/lo
Swap Mosfets
Greentime

Precharge

bang up job on the summary Cohberg!

 

[Scottyf]

Hello all,
Mine turned up this morning a week after ordering.
I've attached some pictures for refererence. I couldn't open it fully because the screws started to round off which is annoying. I'll have to cut them before I round them to far. So unfortunately I can't get you board pictures for now.

Anyway some pictures for reference. It's quite a bit larger than my 9fet controller from bmsbattery.
I'll be using it on a geared bafang. So the 38amp peak is far to high so I will cut one of the shunts to drop the amps to a more reasonable 25amp peak.

Mine also had the sticker 38amp peak.

The MOSFET used are fb4410z if that means anything to anyone.

 

[Gordo]

Hello all,
Mine turned up this morning a week after ordering. The MOSFET used are fb4410z if that means anything to anyone.

It means someone printed on the FET'S, not much more Seriously, this presents a contradiction to the assumption that the #OT100 quit using 4410's and switched to 4710's a few months ago. When you get the board out, look at the number on the board. CA08 XM0XXXXX ?? I would think your date of 11/11/05 would have the 4710's

 

[The Mighty Volt]

I must have a very early model because I have the genuine IR 1470 Fet's which have a rated RDS of 7.8mOhm, 15 Fets only. Controller is 48v 50A rated.

 

[cohberg]

I don't think that early has anything to do with it. There have been several reports of 48V hua tongs. However i thought that those Hua Tongs were 18 mosfets. Do you happen to have a board number or pics?

Also

IR 1470 Fet's

isn't getting me anything correct. Maybe my search-fu is low today

 

[The Mighty Volt]

I don't think that early has anything to do with it. There have been several reports of 48V hua tongs. However i thought that those Hua Tongs were 18 mosfets. Do you happen to have a board number or pics?

Also

IR 1470 Fet's

isn't getting me anything correct. Maybe my search-fu is low today

I got it wrong. Sorry it is 1407. A good fet too it seems.

http://www.irf.com/product-info/datasheets/data/irf1407.pdf

 

[mike662]

I've been out of the ebike scene for a while now but I see that you guys have a FAQ building up. The FAQ about the CA-DP connections links to my video but that video doesn't explain much. I've gotten a few PM's now asking about how I made the connection and it's explained in my post here: http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=32696&start=15#p475709 Whoever is compiling the faq it'd be better to put this link in there instead as it has helped a few people.

 

[cohberg]

I've been out of the ebike scene for a while now but I see that you guys have a FAQ building up. The FAQ about the CA-DP connections links to my video but that video doesn't explain much. I've gotten a few PM's now asking about how I made the connection and it's explained in my post here: http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=32696&start=15#p475709 Whoever is compiling the faq it'd be better to put this link in there instead as it has helped a few people.

perfect, thanks!

 

[cohberg]

I must have a very early model because I have the genuine IR 1470 Fet's which have a rated RDS of 7.8mOhm, 15 Fets only. Controller is 48v 50A rated.

I'd be wary about calling them genuine.

 

[The Mighty Volt]

I must have a very early model because I have the genuine IR 1470 Fet's which have a rated RDS of 7.8mOhm, 15 Fets only. Controller is 48v 50A rated.

I'd be wary about calling them genuine.

Physically, they stack up, with the same copper tint, notch and half-a-tear-drop.

I'll grab some photos and put them up.

 

[wesnewell]

I got it wrong. Sorry it is 1407. A good fet too it seems.

http://www.irf.com/product-info/datasheets/data/irf1407.pdf

Only good to 75V though. Good for a 48V controller. Not worth a hill of beans for a 72V controller.

 

[cohberg]

Only good to 75V though. Good for a 48V controller. Not worth a hill of beans for a 72V controller.

Yeah i think he has the 48V version that kentlim26 has. 48V controller typically run 75V fets and 63V caps right?

 

[wesnewell]

Only good to 75V though. Good for a 48V controller. Not worth a hill of beans for a 72V controller.

Yeah i think he has the 48V version that kentlim26 has. 48V controller typically run 75V fets and 63V caps right?

All my 48V controllers have 63v caps and 70-75v fets. Both my 72v controllers have 100V caps and fets. Someone said they had a 72v Hua Tong controller that only had 75v caps though. It was the model with 2 wire bundles out the end. I think they sell both as a model OT100, so be careful about what you buy.

 

[The Mighty Volt]

Only good to 75V though. Good for a 48V controller. Not worth a hill of beans for a 72V controller.

Yeah i think he has the 48V version that kentlim26 has. 48V controller typically run 75V fets and 63V caps right?

Yeah pretty much. I'm happy with it though, I can make a custom battery of around 55volts resting. I'd sooner have a small controller with real IR fets of a lower value than dodgy stuff of dubious origin.

 

[kentlim26]

yes, the 48v the caps is 63v, so i will not bet to run more then 60volts. If not i will have to order another huatong controller. however im currently testing the 60v controller the caps is 80v. 48v lifepo4 ,16cells cannot work with the 60v version. when u fully throttle , it will draws lots of current and shut the controller down. so i just simply add lipo 7.4v x 20amps + 16cells lifepo4 i can get 60v ~ 61volts, and it works really very well for the 60v controller version. results is not bad. I think i will stick this controller + conhis motor 48v 1000watts . i can easily get 55km/h on flat. , i think this is the range i like 55km/h, if my ebike is going at a speed above 61km/h ++ the handling is abit scary + Risk i think is up also as well
cheers..
kentlim26

 

[migueralliart]

Well I got mine today, 38Amps and the board has a D3.2 number.

BTW I don't plan on modding this controller much just try it out with a yescomusa kit, I don;t really need regen or all the built in features.

 

[Scottyf]

Sounds like that is the same version I have...
I can't open mine without rounding all the cheap screws out. An as I was only going to modify the shunt to take less amp's i can get to that from the plate of the controller

 

[Gordo]

Sounds like that is the same version I have...
I can't open mine without rounding all the cheap screws out. An as I was only going to modify the shunt to take less amp's i can get to that from the plate of the controller

Scotty,
Cut a slot in the screws with a hacksaw. Tap on them with a little hammer before you try to take them out.

 

[Scottyf]

I will do in due course. But won't be doing it just yet if you can bare with me.

 

[migueralliart]

I just wish we could run this sensorless, I know it is a lot to ask for a 38$ controller but then again I think with all the features it has there might be a way to make it sensorless. I also have a controller from ecrazyman that runs with both sensor and sensorless applications. Anyone here know what's the main difference on the board itself? I have not look closely.