72v 1500W 40A Hua Tong CA08 XM06AD_P04.1 controller

to modify the shunt, there sure have a limit for these controllers. i think is safe to increased by 5amps. it will work well.
ken
 
Well, as my HuaTong pulled about 34A unmodded, I guess that 50A from it is really pushing it.
 
bobale said:
How much you've added to shunt thickness to cause FET(s) to blow?

Just connected two wires together from center, the FET didn't blew because the amps, but the soldering
tin which melted beyond the smd's and probably burned some of them, causing the boommm/fire/smoke-effect
Wish I got a video from the fireball that flew out :D :D but no :)
 
bobale said:
Well, as my HuaTong pulled about 34A unmodded, I guess that 50A from it is really pushing it.

Square root 2 is a good divider almost everywhere in electrics, so if the FET's r capable of 75A it calculates about 53A. :)
 
Finzent said:
Square root 2 is a good divider almost everywhere in electrics, so if the FET's r capable of 75A it calculates about 53A. :)

Yes and no. The fets never see battery amps, they only see phase amps and the phase amps will depend on what kind of wind your motor is. I'll admit that I understand only the surface of that but liveforphysics cranked that into my skull nice and tight. But for the layman because of the way the motor is wound the phase current is usually much larger than the battery current. On my golden motor, which is a mid/slower wind, about 55A is great so your rule would would work perfectly for the majority of motors. But if you throw a 5302 into the fray it'll eat even docotrbass' monster 36 fet controller. On the other end of the spectrum, you could load a 5306 and crank up the amps. You would need a scope to truely know.

My methodology for finding the peak is simple. Keep modding the shunt untill i start loosing fets. :twisted: Personally I run a Golden/coshismotor/yescomusa rear hub (36V800W) which is close to a 9C 2807 at 59 amps reliably. > 61 is when you start losing fets.

mauimart said:
. I am in the process of scoping the phase current to get an idea of what the FETs are experiencing. I will post once I get some meaningful results.
mauimart, you're running a rc setup right? I have no experience with those motors but will they handle >40amps? Also you must be seeing super high phase current. What kind of rpm are you seeing before you loose lock?
 
cohberg said:
mauimart, you're running a rc setup right? I have no experience with those motors but will they handle >40amps? Also you must be seeing super high phase current. What kind of rpm are you seeing before you loose lock?

Yes I'm doing some testing with two turnigy 80-100's, one stock wound delta at 130kV and another rewound in wye at approximately 70kV. The 130kV loses lock at about 7700 rpm which translates to about 54000 electrical rpm (7 pole pairs). A bit more info can be found on this thread:
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=33277
 
stewrobb said:
Okay, so I just received the Greentime controller, and I must say am very impressed (although it took like 40 days). The jittery behaviour I felt from starts and at certain throttle ranges with the hua tong are non existant with this controller, very deliberate. The current seems a lot higher, but I don't have a wattmeter to give an exact figure, they say 45 or 50A, depending where you look, I suspect it's closer to the 50 range.

What was extremely interesting to me is the connections used for regen braking, If you look at my earlier post, with my Hua Tong, I used X and got reverse current, albeit for a short moment until the phase wires were shorted out, which told me that it was capable of regen, although I couldn't figure it out. On this Greentime, the regen is activated by connecting DS and X. I am super busy with midterms and such, so I won't have the chance to try this out on my Hua Tong (x may have to be connected to something other than DS), but if any of you folks want regen(very redundant), my suggestion would be to try connecting x to something other than GND, I would bet money that this is the ticket. It is activated when a brake signal is present.

https://picasaweb.google.com/104673449835553898679/Dump?authuser=0&feat=directlink

Good luck, hopefully someone else will carry on the regen flame and finish the race for everyone still using a Hua Tong!

I read it, I seemed cheap and buy it, is still under way, and proves it when it arrives.


I want to make clear that portal alibaba / aliexpress are thieves, not the vendors, I bought another and the goods arrived without problems, but the portal has charged 50 € me unless I buy anything, take care and watch for your money, no buy some nothing here, they're worse but stolen and blames its vendors.

Excuse my English, but remember not to buy in aliexpress rob you sure sooner or later.

Greetings.
 
Thanks for reporting the problem. If you used a credit card, claim back on it. Also put a claim into AliExpress. There is no fee from AliExpress, they collect $3000US for an annual listing by the vendor, plus a fee on every sale. You may have been ripped off by a crooked Ali employee. They recently fired 200 for illegal activity.
 
Will this Huatong LVC adjustment with 5k pot be danagerous o blow up the controller , same as the Infineion controller if the LVC is set too low ?

I have pasted from a thread from knukles below:



by Knuckles » Sat Nov 08, 2008 3:22 pm

Infineon Controller Custom Modifications

· LVC Potentiometer
The use of a potentiometer to change the LVC is well established.
However, there is a danger involved with this modification.

If the end user sets the LVC POT too low then the current thru the "ignition" electronics
can drop below 65 ma at low battery voltages.
This CAN and WILL cause the MCU and mosfet drivers to malfunction causing the mosfets to short out.

Even when using the "transistor modification" (this mod replaces the standard power resistors),
The LVC is still required to protect the controller (by shutting it off) from a very low voltage condition.

It is very easy for a user to set the LVC too low and blow the controller under a low voltage condition.
I am reluctant to provide this specific modification for this very reason.
If used properly, however, it can still be extremely useful.
 
jk1 said:
Will this Huatong LVC adjustment with 5k pot be danagerous o blow up the controller , same as the Infineion controller if the LVC is set too low ?
It makes no difference if you use a pot or a fixed resistor. The electrons don't know the difference. :D The danger is if you set the pot resistance wrong. Set the pot to exactly the resistance you need for the LVC you want. Then glue or wire the pot shaft to lock it. :mrgreen:
 
I set my pot for 2k for a 48V battery for about 42V cutoff and have perhaps 200km with no problems.

Reaching LVC is not really an issue for me as I never really get near this point with my battery.

Has anyone had issues with blowing a controller with low voltage (usually its the opposite). :p
 
I'm running it at 22S and so far I've only managed to melt the fuse and it's wiring the other day :D. When we're talking about LVC, does your repeatedly cut out when it reaches LVC, and then gets back on the power?
 
so it is true if the pot or resistor is set incorrectly we can blow up the controller ?
so then i guess its important that the actualu LVC set point be tested after the new resistance is added to make sure it does cut out at some low voltage , i.e that that fucntion still works
 
so it is true if the pot or resistor is set incorrectly we can blow up the controller ?
so then i guess its important that the actualu LVC set point be tested after the new resistance is added to make sure it does cut out at some low voltage , i.e that that fucntion still works

For the question above: Yes - where that point is for this Controller is has yet to be discovered. If you take into consideration information supplied by Knuckles and others and look at the calculations on modifying the LVC that point is "probably" below 30V (best guesstimate). I think Auraslip had an LVC of 37V which worked OK. In the infineon blurb it goes into the detail of what causes the controller to fail.

Testing any change is a good idea. Point to note: I did not test mine. :p The led flashed normally instead of the 8 flashes for LVC. I trusted the info given on the forum after applying 'due diligence' and its been OK.

In my experience no problems with lowering the LVC from ~62V to 42V. In my case regen does not work at my battery voltage (too low) but the cruise function works.

Cheers DSX
 
DSX said:
In the infineon blurb it goes into the detail of what causes the controller to fail.
Can you point me to that document?

DSX said:
In my case regen does not work at my battery voltage (too low) but the cruise function works.
Do you have oldest style HuaTong, or newer ones? I can't remember.
 
I have the controller referred to in the thread name.

The document attached is the original Infineon document I downloaded plus some stuff I added from the forum for my own reference for use in modifying the Hua Tong CA08 XM06AD_P04.1 controller. I hope this works ok.
 

Attachments

  • Infineon doc.doc
    2.3 MB · Views: 219
....and ....this is the knuckles infineon thread: http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=4282
 
Thanks for the doc :). I'm now not sure which Hua Tong I have as I'm not near it and can't check, but how did you enabled regen in the end?
 
bobale said:
Thanks for the doc :). I'm now not sure which Hua Tong I have as I'm not near it and can't check, but how did you enabled regen in the end?
On the model in subject, grounding the X (not small x) pad initiates regen. I ran it through the ebrakes, but you can do it any way that shorts it to ground. It won't work at higher than stock voltages without modifying the circuit. Don't recall the exact voltage where it stops working, but it's somewhere around 78V or higher.
 
Ok, thanks :).
 
cohberg said:
To those following the new controller, I have pictures but not much more. I was wrong about it just populating the unused pads in the 2nd generation board. This new board is a complete redesign and now there are a lot of new pads to decode.

Difference noted thus far are: C-D3.1 board, different IC, new 4.3V power supply for the throttle (for safer 24s operation), a 15V supply, 63V supply, Functions 1-8, SL, DS, XS.)
I haven't tested any of them, just modded it for 60A and slapped it on my bike. And no, I haven't tested if there is regen, but even if there was it wouldn't help the 2nd generation guys because the chipset is different =/

I think for brevity i'm just going to upload the entire photoset to picasa and if you guys are interested you can do through it there.

Hi there, the Controller that is currently for sale, is it the same as yours?

What are the tests, the procedures, for identifying things?

I am going to buy one, maybe two, and open them up.

First thing: replace the mosfets.

http://www.dhgate.com/72v-1500w-brushless-speed-controller-for/r-ff80808131bbd38d0131bbda55e40253.html
 
It is impossible to know what you will get when you purchase this controller. We all thought we were getting the same controller because it has a part number #OT100. This part number means NOTHING Everyone ordered and received a OT100. Some just happen to be different than the first batch. For $3X.00 landed at your door, who cares? The thing works and as you can see, from those who have gone before you, shuttles a basket load of electrons from your battery to your motor without burning up.
 
Gordo said:
It is impossible to know what you will get when you purchase this controller. We all thought we were getting the same controller because it has a part number #OT100. This part number means NOTHING Everyone ordered and received a OT100. Some just happen to be different than the first batch. For $3X.00 landed at your door, who cares? The thing works and as you can see, from those who have gone before you, shuttles a basket load of electrons from your battery to your motor without burning up.

I agree, but.....that's still no reason not to take it to its limits. Has anyone done this yet? I understand we won't all get the same controller.
 
It has been tested to destruction. Read the thread.
 
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