72v 1500W 40A Hua Tong CA08 XM06AD_P04.1 controller

bobale said:
If I understood well, stock brake plug only cuts power and cruise control, it doesn't activate regen.
Click to expand...
It all depends on the battery voltage with the stock controller. If the pack voltage is below a certain point (about 75V on the one I tested) it also applies braking. Whether it's regen braking or not is to be determined. This is also true using the X pad to ground to a degree. I'm still not sure what actually happens as the voltage drops a little on my VM connected to red/black monitor connector, but then tends to go higher than before when you release the brakes. So basically, I'm not sure. Since I run 24s and the ebrakes don't even engage at that voltage it's a moot point for me. To see if it really works or not one should connect a vm direct to the battery pack, obtain speed, wait for battery to regain the sag, then apply the brakes and see if the voltage goes up. It won't go up a lot because the battery pack will take the extra voltage and dampen it while charging. Would probably be better tested if you had a long steep hill you could coast down to get speed and then test for voltage increase.
 
I've just done first long(ish) ride with HuaTong (around 10 miles), and I can definitely tell the difference between 14S 30A and 22S 40A. I've finally obtained some 10AWG cable to connect the battery to the controller, and now I can really feel the power. Especially after 15mph, it just picks up and goes like hell. It accelerates to 25mph in ~4 seconds, so it's pretty potent at lower speeds. And at higher speed it doesn't let up until 40, where it starts losing battle with air resistance. And controller is still only warm even though I was pushing it rather hard.

Bottom line: it was worth the money. And I'm not really sure it's wise to have this much power on a bike with v-brakes, which were, btw, shot after 20 miles riding with this controller without regen :). And they did just fine 170 miles on stock controller with regen :).
 
Please help me!
I have a trouble with this controller.
I have a CHS 48v1000w motor with 18s lipo and magura throttle,but in my first run the motor is very noisy and very low speed(15 mph) and poor torque. :(
I connect the motor phase and sensor wire with same color, other connector are unplugghed!
Any suggestion for me???
 
What colors do you have matched on the phase and hall wires? What's the number etched on your motor? What's the date on your controller?
 
Rumberopie,

you got to try to find out which combination will suits you before you put your ebike on the road. TEST the right combination. total 36 combinations... sure one wiLL Work.
 
I was wrong wires! the right combination was suggested me by Wesnewell in another topic! :)
Tommorrow new test with 24s2p lipo (at 4,1V cell.).
Now i Have to repair the dead zone of magura throttle.
The magura throttle is very sensible but the dead zone cause minor resolution.
Any suugestion to fix the throttle?
Thanks guys!!!
 
First test at 24s2p,8x5000 zippy 30C.
I have tested this controller at 24s charged at 4,15v cell, total 99,6v.
The performance are very strong, Chm motor and controller run cool. :D
Max speed 77,2 Km/h in the flat,i climb hill very easy,good accelaration but no wheelie. :D
I will test the current draw in any situation soon!
 
Rumberopie said:
Max speed 77,2 Km/h in the flat,i climb hill very easy,good accelaration but no wheelie. :D
Click to expand...
Holy crap, that's insane! Oh, and I fully expected to easily do wheelies with 22S and 40A, but no, it won't do them.
 
bobale said:
A notice for those interested in buying HuaTong:



Those newer controllers which are made after august 2011. have 4710 instead of 4410 FETs. And yes, 4710 are worse than 4410. Those 4710 are rated at 75A (instead of 100A) and have even worse RDS On (14mOhm).

Click to expand...

I have searched and searched and I can't find any info about why some FETs are better than others. Could someone please explain why these newer FETs are not as good? I don't know very much about electronics so my best guess is that at a 40A current*0.014Ohm*15Fets you would see a voltage drop of 8.4V. I'm probably way off so can someone tell me if it's worth replacing the FETs myself and what the consequences of not doing so are? I plan to run my controller on 20S2P 8x5000mah lipos. Thanks!
 
Basically, FET with higher RDS(on) will heat up more under same current than FET with lower RDS(on), and as I'm sure you know, more heat is the last thing you want in your controller. Also, FETs with higher RDS(on) are cheaper, so there's a hint why they went for 4710 instead of 4410 :).

Anyway, in my experience they work just fine on 22S, so on 20S it will be plain sailing. I would say don't bother replacing them. But you can consider replacing them if you blow a FET or two.
 
bobale said:
Basically, FET with higher RDS(on) will heat up more under same current than FET with lower RDS(on), and as I'm sure you know, more heat is the last thing you want in your controller. Also, FETs with higher RDS(on) are cheaper, so there's a hint why they went for 4710 instead of 4410 :).

Anyway, in my experience they work just fine on 22S, so on 20S it will be plain sailing. I would say don't bother replacing them. But you can consider replacing them if you blow a FET or two.
Click to expand...

Sweet, that's good to hear that I don't have to replace them. Thanks for your help!
 
Can someone please tell me where the M2 pad is? I'm looking all over on my board and the area where I think it is is not labeled. I do see SX though. Has anyone tried both SX and M2 while riding and seen if there is a major difference between the two? Thanks!
 
mike662 said:
Can someone please tell me where the M2 pad is? I'm looking all over on my board and the area where I think it is is not labeled. I do see SX though. Has anyone tried both SX and M2 while riding and seen if there is a major difference between the two? Thanks!
Click to expand...
If you have the newer controller, it doesn't have the M(x) pads. See this thread to determine which model you have.
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=31946
I have the one with the M2 pad and hooked both SX and M2. One of them affected the throttle a lot, and the other one didn't. Don't remember which was which, but I posted it here somewhere.
 
I've poked around the controller, and managed to find pads for cruise control, speed limit and reverse on new design board.



As you can see in the pic, L is for reverse, Q is for cruise control, X is for regen* and pad just above XS is for speed limit/low power mode. When I activate regen at maximum unloaded rpm, voltage does seem to jump, but this will need to be checked on a strech of downhill road.

Speaking of regen, what I noticed is when rpm decrease to almost a dead stop, wheel locks up completely, and you can barely move it by hand, so it seems that controller is actively locking the weel, ie. using power, so I'm not sure how much this feature will be useful, but it seems that regen can be used to bring a bike to a dead stop. Will test out this later.

Edit: *Pad X is NOT regen.
 
Crap.. I bought another controller after august. Do all fets need to be the same kind? Any adverse effects in mixing or will I have to replace all my fets if I choose to do so?

Also it looks like Q (reverse) is already enabled?
 
My bad, Q is for cruise control, L is for reverse :).
 
It's pretty limited in reverse. When this rain stops I'll go out to see how regen works, and I'll try 18S and 22s, to check does it wether on higher voltages on this new design.
 
As I found, Cycle Analyst needs those informations to work:
1 = Vbatt (Red)
2 = Ground (Black)
3 = Shunt - (Blue)
4 = Shunt + (White)
5 = Speed (Yellow)
6 = Throttle Over-ride (Green)

As far as I can see, I can't think of anything that would stop you from connecting CA to this controller. I'm sure Speed can be obtained somewhere within the controller, and other pins can be wired up no problem.
 
Speed can be obtained from a hall signal I believe, so yeah a CA can be connected if you have some technical skills on how to solder it in. Throttle-override I'm not so sure though
 
It is possible. You connect the throttle directly to the CA, and then CA throttle output to the controller.
 
that makes sense. in other words, yes a CA can be connected to the controller provided you can solder. A direct plug is possible if you can't solder, provided someone else can solder the plug with all its connections for you.

Where's the shunt and what's its value for this controller? I may just have a CA connected.
 
bobale said:
I've poked around the controller, and managed to find pads for cruise control, speed limit and reverse on new design board.



As you can see in the pic, L is for reverse, Q is for cruise control, X is for regen and pad just above XS is for speed limit/low power mode. When I activate regen at maximum unloaded rpm, voltage does seem to jump, but this will need to be checked on a strech of downhill road.

Speaking of regen, what I noticed is when rpm decrease to almost a dead stop, wheel locks up completely, and you can barely move it by hand, so it seems that controller is actively locking the weel, ie. using power, so I'm not sure how much this feature will be useful, but it seems that regen can be used to bring a bike to a dead stop. Will test out this later.
Click to expand...

Perfect, now I can get to rewiring some stuff :D I guess I won't be plugging in regen then since it's actually taking power from the battery instead.
 
Cheers Lads. I think I will pick one of these up then after all. Your efforts are much appreciated. Cheers.

I got some 4110 Fet's. They will be the first to go into it.

Anyone else planning on ripping out the FET's ?

I might even try and replace all of the internal wiring with something a little more soft and pliable.

I just want a 3-speed switch, a CA and maybe Regen.

Thats all I want for Christmas :)
 
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