iovaykind
10 kW
Dang that's a bummer. What im wondering now is if the old controllers x was wheel lock also..
72v 1500W 40A Hua Tong CA08 XM06AD_P04.1 controller
- Thread starter wesnewell
- Start date
Gordo
100 kW
The Chinese follow few conventions reliably but, X is usually "Security Feature" ie WHEEL LOCK. I have tracked this controller to Fulong as the manufacturer. I'm now trying to get through to someone with a better understanding of English. I find if you spend enough time, you can usually find someone in any company with good English skills.
One word of caution; Be sure who you are purchasing from. DHgate is just another form of Alibaba, AliExpress, etc. There are multiple sellers of this controller such as marcmart, maromart etc. If a new seller shows up with "old stock" (or some other odd description) for a much lower price, beware. The "escrow" system and dispute mechanism is the same old Alibaba crap. You must open a dispute with the seller and get a negative response before DHgate with get involved. Time limits on disputes, must return product promptly before DHgate will respond.......They have taken the initiative to post a bunch of misinformation on questionable disputes so when you search for problems with DHgate, you can't find any. 7 good feed back and 1 bad is tallied as 100% good. Funny math.
One word of caution; Be sure who you are purchasing from. DHgate is just another form of Alibaba, AliExpress, etc. There are multiple sellers of this controller such as marcmart, maromart etc. If a new seller shows up with "old stock" (or some other odd description) for a much lower price, beware. The "escrow" system and dispute mechanism is the same old Alibaba crap. You must open a dispute with the seller and get a negative response before DHgate with get involved. Time limits on disputes, must return product promptly before DHgate will respond.......They have taken the initiative to post a bunch of misinformation on questionable disputes so when you search for problems with DHgate, you can't find any. 7 good feed back and 1 bad is tallied as 100% good. Funny math.
stewrobb
1 W
Fair enough, seems to make sense, I just wish that the rest of it followed some sort of logical pattern. That would be great, I attempted to do the same but gave up even trying to find the manufacturer. If you can get some information out of them it would be very helpful, because I would bet quite a bit that it has the function somehow. Good luck, and please report back, whatever you find, even if you can't get it out of em :|
I just ordered a 45A 72v controller from aliexpress for $46. Seems that it has regen so I splurged, I know someone who will buy my 1000w BMS so there is no point in wasting time and money getting it up to par for a temporary solution. hopefully it gets here soon, but it's shipped china post so I doubt it. That's the other good part about those hua tong's, shipped DHL so it's quick. Got mine in 10 days, 6 business days. I'll keep the Tong for now I guess, wait until some information is found or my new one gets here, either way I need regen, but I'm fed up with replacing my controller over and over, it's a pain on the scooter.
I am wondering the same, because after looking online I realize the old hua tongs are still for sale, or at least some distributers have it. To any users of the old Hua Tong with REGEN, please inform us as to whether the "regen" works under 5-10kmh. Thanks
I just ordered a 45A 72v controller from aliexpress for $46. Seems that it has regen so I splurged, I know someone who will buy my 1000w BMS so there is no point in wasting time and money getting it up to par for a temporary solution. hopefully it gets here soon, but it's shipped china post so I doubt it. That's the other good part about those hua tong's, shipped DHL so it's quick. Got mine in 10 days, 6 business days. I'll keep the Tong for now I guess, wait until some information is found or my new one gets here, either way I need regen, but I'm fed up with replacing my controller over and over, it's a pain on the scooter.
I am wondering the same, because after looking online I realize the old hua tongs are still for sale, or at least some distributers have it. To any users of the old Hua Tong with REGEN, please inform us as to whether the "regen" works under 5-10kmh. Thanks
iovaykind
10 kW
When you get your controller you have to open it up and see if the board is the same.. I'm almost positive it is. The 45a 72v on aliexpress seems like it's paying premium but I bet you the manufacturer just enables whatever you ask them too. So if you didn't already, let them know to enable EVERYTHING, and that will tell us which pad does what.
stewrobb
1 W
Ya I asked them too, and for confirmation that it has regen braking, hopefully I'll hear back from them soon. That is what I am hoping for because the case looks the same and there really aren't too many 72v controllers available (other that modified lower voltage controllers). If it is the same board, or even a similar revision we could get the regen working, I think it requires some actual circuitry, not just jumpers. I'll let you know as soon as I find out, but don't hold your breath, china post and all. 
wesnewell
100 GW
Guys, there are at least three different models of this controller being sold. X is not wheel lock on the model I have (board # ca08 x8m06ad_p04.1). All are sold as OT100's but there are major differences in all three. And there may be more than three being sold. So please specify which model you have in your post or start another thread for other models.
iovaykind
10 kW
I agree. This thread has been cluttered with ALL hua tong controllers. Even info on the 48v one.. but as we all know the models have been changing, different fets, circuitry, etc. Even the two I bought are pretty different already. It's just within a small time frame, the model doesn't change. Back when wes started this thread we had a different controller. A few of us have possession of it and the rest of the people who hopped onto the cheap controller boat later on got a different controller, around august they changed it.
Wes.. how's the regen feel on your controller? I have yet to test mine out because I'm switching out all the fets but I'm hoping its smooth and not linear like others have said about what actually was wheel lock.
Wes.. how's the regen feel on your controller? I have yet to test mine out because I'm switching out all the fets but I'm hoping its smooth and not linear like others have said about what actually was wheel lock.
John in CR
100 TW
For reports on regen function be sure to include what motor, because regen braking strength is much weaker on higher speed wind motors. eg With mine the standard 10A regen limitation is a very mild braking force even when programmed to max regen force. It forces me to do a shunt mod just to fool the controller into thinking the regen current is lower than it actually is.
Of course that's going to affect the drive current limits in the same way. For those pushing the current limits, ventilation with a small blower make you able to push the stock controllers much further, especially those with the resistive voltage divider, because those resistors put a lot of heat in the controller.
Of course that's going to affect the drive current limits in the same way. For those pushing the current limits, ventilation with a small blower make you able to push the stock controllers much further, especially those with the resistive voltage divider, because those resistors put a lot of heat in the controller.
I have one of the "old" controller like wesnewell. Grounding the X pad resulted in smooth "regen" like feel. I haven't measured if it really puts current back to the battery but it's linear and weak at very low speed. Moreover, if I keep the X pad grounded and try to spin the wheel, it doesn't require that much force ; it's not locked for sure. The fact is there are different Hua Tong board putted into the same casing and thus increasing confusion about wich pad does what. One thing is sure : the Hua Tong with the '4410 fets are regen capable when X is grounded.
wesnewell
100 GW
It has very little resistance at low speeds. I can even pedal the bike with it engaged. But I've done very little testing since I've been running 24s1p lipo mostly and it doesn't work at all at that voltage. I've ordered some 6s lipo packs and will be changing over to 18s2p when it arrives. Then I can do some more testing.iovaykind said:
Everyone please note the subject change.
iovaykind
10 kW
Thanks for changing the subject title. I think I'll make a new thread for the new people so they can identify which controller they have and its functions. Glad I bought the controller early enough with 4410 fets. I'm waiting on fets now, but will do some testing and see what voltage the regen is set to. I'm hoping it kicks in at least above 72v, preferably around 80v, so that 20s2p regens early on.
Gordo
100 kW
I love the idea of BEMF braking (which has been around for at least 75 years in heavy equipment) but IIRC under optimum conditions you can only recover 15%. It would be very interesting to accurately chart the recovery with a particular controller/battery combination.
iovaykind
10 kW
Regen for most of us is about added braking ability so our disc/v-brake pads do not wear out as quickly. Adding juice back to the battery is just an added bonus.
Gordo
100 kW
That is the thought I was trying to convey in my post. And I added some posts back that a twist or thumb throttle controlling the regen is the very best method to take full control of this feature. I didn't dream this up. DoctorBass and several others have been doing this for a long time.bobale said:
iovaykind
10 kW
Is the use of the thumb/twist throttle in controlling the regen something that can be done on any controller? Like instead of grounding it completely, you run it through the throttle and the current in the grounding can control the amount of regen braking? Or is it a property of the controller that has the feature?
Gordo
100 kW
iovaykind said:
We should probably stick to the controller in the topic, so no one gets mislead. There are several clever guys experimenting with this controller and it is simple enough to figure out what varying the resistance between the pad and ground does or if a variable voltage to the pad changes the BEMF of the motor. Anyone?
stewrobb
1 W
A question to the owners of the Hua Tong, any model. Does your standing start seem rough to you? I've got a new one (with singe plastic seal for wires and no board number at all, bought from marcmart) which seems too rough (proper hall/phase config), and sometimes at certain throttle points does the same thing, almost like the hall's are wrong. Thanks,
Stewart Robb
Stewart Robb
wesnewell
100 GW
If it's running rough then you probably need to change phase and hall wires. Mine ran extremely rough until I found the right combo. I've got the model in the subject line.
stewrobb
1 W
No, as I stated it isn't the hall/phase configuration, It is very easy to tell if thats the problem. It seems rough only at a couple points in the throttle, but its a pain because one of those is starting from a standing stop, I don't really notice unless I'm starting uphill, or am at 3/4 throttle, seems like a stutter.
Gordo
100 kW
+1, Loose connection or loose HALL.
I live in a college town that is swarming with cops and i know that one day they'll notice me going at 46+ mph and stop me.
Has anyone tried out grounding the low power pad? And if so what was your peak wattage and speed?
Ideally i'd like it to turn the bike into something 100% legal (1000W <20mph in california)
I just came off a nasty crash (turns out that braking from 40 on painted lines is a bad idea
) that destroyed my bike computer and my watt meter is still shipping 
so i don't have a way to measure wattage or speed for now.
Has anyone tried out grounding the low power pad? And if so what was your peak wattage and speed?
Ideally i'd like it to turn the bike into something 100% legal (1000W <20mph in california)
I just came off a nasty crash (turns out that braking from 40 on painted lines is a bad idea
) that destroyed my bike computer and my watt meter is still shipping so i don't have a way to measure wattage or speed for now.Unfortunately, in "low power" mode it only limits top speed to 25mph, but max acceleration (and max current draw) is the same. It modifies throttle input so the bike starts not immediately, but when you open it a lot more than usual, and as you near WOT it starts accelerating with maximum power, drawing same amount of amps as in normal mode, but then it quickly stops accelerating as you near 25mph. Not very usefull for making bike "legal", if you ask me.cohberg said:
Holy crap! I can't imagine how the bike accelerates at 50A. Can you describe?
And can you take a photo of your modded shunt, just for the reference for the others?bobale said:
le sad. but i don't see any police officers going about with wattmeters? Maybe i can get away with with max wattage if i can find a way to make it even slower...maybe a throttle limiter(lower the hall signal return voltage with an inline resistor)?
bobale said:Holy crap! I can't imagine how the bike accelerates at 50A. Can you describe?
I'll take pictures later but the shunt mod is about as stupid crazy as PeeHell.
I have an aluminum bike (steel rear) and am 130lbs, so zero weight + backheavy + WOT = a liveforphysics ending up on my ass. If you launch and you are not leaning forward the bike lifts. Hill starts are the worst, the bike just wants to pivot around the hub.
The thing is my controller stays pretty cool with that mod. Yes it gets to be about 15+ ambient and i have it right next to my front wheel but still...this controller ftw.
