A No Solder/Weld 18650 Build

:D Well, I wouldn't say "bemoaned". Just made an observation. Another suggestion might be not to have both sides of the pack connection panels 'fixed mounted'. I'm working on a way to float the top panel using large rubber bands, made with tire tube material. I've found that this material really holds it's elasticity for a very long time, and this will ensure that, if the foam should loosen the connection, the tension from the rubber bands will take up the slack. Of course, the outside panels of the battery enclosure will be fixed. Some might say, "Why use both the foam and the rubber bands?" Well, the foam does serve the purpose of reducing any bumps or vibrations that might cause damage to the batteries over the long run.
 
NaturalPath said:
:D Well, I wouldn't say "bemoaned". Just made an observation. Another suggestion might be not to have both sides of the pack connection panels 'fixed mounted'. I'm working on a way to float the top panel using large rubber bands, made with tire tube material. I've found that this material really holds it's elasticity for a very long time, and this will ensure that, if the foam should loosen the connection, the tension from the rubber bands will take up the slack. Of course, the outside panels of the battery enclosure will be fixed. Some might say, "Why use both the foam and the rubber bands?" Well, the foam does serve the purpose of reducing any bumps or vibrations that might cause damage to the batteries over the long run.


Innertube material is a butyl rubber based polymer. It does have bad set properties. If you strap something down with it, it will relax its clamp load with time in a big way. Is also going to be impossible to get even pressure with strapping (it focuses pressure on edges and put no force in the center/middle of plane surfaces.)


This guys design is actually very good, and quite easy to copy. For thin copper sheet, I think just drilling a shallow dimple into a little scrap of steel, and putting a hard plastic handled screwdriver of the right size into a drill press shank first would make a tool that can press in the dimples into the copper just fine.
 
makes me want to run my motors as hot as possible and then throw them in a bucket of water and see if the winding resistance is lowered.

do you think having the dimple in the copper being a flat surface is important. I got good results with a hand squeeze rivet tool but not quite as flat.

great thread. I like the ability to get the cells in and out easily and it should have less resistance with the copper but I cant find an amp rating for copper plating but remember reading it has very low resistance and wonder what thickness is appropriate? what resistance is a typical battery? https://www.tedpella.com/semmisc_html/semadhes.htm

how are your packs holding up?

i'll be looking up that foam.
 
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