A picture's worth a thousand words....... (title edited)

GCinDC said:
Nice! Video of how quiet it is? :mrgreen:

recumpence said:
Here is the video;

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GQV0UzV5qTM

I purposely used my wife's camera to record this video because it is hyper sensitive to high pitch noise. What you hear in the video is actually far louder than the sound in real life.

Under acceleration, you can hear the motor. But, when up at speed, it is pretty much silent. Bear in mind, every time the trike is in sight, the motor is running. It is not coasting at any point in the video other than when you hear the front brake rotor vibrate.

At the end of the video, you can hear the rear tire spinning as I turn around and approach the camera.

Enjoy!

Matt

[youtube]GQV0UzV5qTM[/youtube]

Best e-tadpole trike EVER IMO. Awesome job Matt... Is it still possible to do doughnuts and drift on bitumen like when you had the twin motors or has it been tamed enough to just grip and go now? Obviously will be alot more sane to ride, was like trying to ride a Nitro Harley on the road before haha...

ToP JoB Matt you roxz
smiley-faces-84.gif


KiM
 
recumpence said:
That is actually bad for the rotors. The way the center portion of the rotors is setup, that can cause the rotors to warp under hard braking. So, I have not tried reversing them yet.

do you know that from experience Matt ? ..
I have heard all sorts of explanation for the design of the rotor "spokes" ( much of it unsubstantiated) but from a strength point of view, they always seem to be reversed to me. I have not had any problems with reversed rotors, but then again i dont have a high powered trike ! :lol:
 
The issue, from what I have heard is, reversed direction puts a pulling force on the rotor rather than a pushing force. This tends to warp the rotor. Of course, this is pure conjecture, however. I have not tried it. I am game to try anything, however. :)

Matt
 
Awesome work as usual Matt.

Is there any chance of repurposing a motorbike drive pulley. I was just driving behind a harley, and the drive pulley on that look a similar size.
I know offsets and all will probably be all wrong, and I only found prices on custom aftermarket ones with a quick google serach, but it bit might be worth a couple of phone calls.

Something like this.
freespirits26.jpg
 
The oem harley stuff is big and heavy!!!
And its all to big for ebike stuff.
 
Arlo1 said:
The oem harley stuff is big and heavy!!!
And its all to big for ebike stuff.

till you take the lathe and mill to it...
 
I have been thinking about this and would it not be possible to mold one out of plastic ? the sort of stuff that Thud is/was going to use for the hall mount on the outrunners or will it not stand upto it ?.
 
Started a new thread on making cogs inexpensively here:

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=26122

Just so's we don't clog up Recumpence's thread.

Sounds promising...

Katou
 
E-racer said:
Arlo1 said:
The oem harley stuff is big and heavy!!!
And its all to big for ebike stuff.

till you take the lathe and mill to it...
Yeh but the factory casting is not that perfact and the belt cogs are HUGE and the belt would rob 1-3 HP alone kind of a waste for e-bike stuff!
WIth the amount you will lathe/mill off you will have nothing left!
 
There are a few other options out there for the do-it-yourselfer.

When I was at Pheifer the other day, they showed me a 140 tooth 8mm pitch pulley they had in stock. This is a cast, then machined pulley for a large tire go-kart. However, it weighed a ton and would require a center hub to work. So, a $100+ pulley, plus a custom center hub, LOTS of machining to lighten it up and it would still not look cool, and would still be somewhat make-shift.

I am looking at other options as well. :)

Matt
 
Katou has started a thread about low cost options for large cogs here: http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=26122 this shud keep us from mucking up Recupence thread.
 
Hi Matt,

Matt said:
---The pitch is 8mm.

---The tooth profile is Polychain, not the typical HTD.

---The belt style is Contitech Syncrochain Kevlar cord.

---Ratio is 3.07 to 1 (26 tooth front, 80 tooth rear).

My reasons for using these particular components is multifaceted;

First, even at 8mm pitch, 15mm width, a HTD belt would be near its limit with a 3220 motor. This belt and tooth profile is WILDLY over speced. This particular belt in a 40mm width is used as a jackshaft to track belt on 400hp supercharged snowmobiles! So, this application is child's-play for it. :)
Polychain Belts:
  • Why did you choose 26t for the drive sprocket (the recommended minimum for Polychain is 22t)?
    How wide are the belts (would 10mm wide work)?
    Seems perfect for connecting the motors with your dual drive setups (especially with your "14kw continuous" versions of Astro's configured as dual motors. :twisted: ).
Matt said:
----The freewheel up front is a Sprague oneway style clutch rather than a standard clicking freewheel.

---Second, the Sprague clutch is silent and does not have any backlash like a normal freewheel. This allows for silent freewheeling and silent engagement.
Sprague clutch:
  • How is the Sprague clutch working? If its reliable it seems like a better solution than a FW
    How wide is it (wider than the belt or sprocket)?
    Any reason it wouldn't work with bike sprockets (like the output from your drives for a build that can't use belts)?
 
Great questions Mitch!

The 26 tooth was the minimum possible with the 52mm sprague.

The sprague is 15mm wide.

The belt is 12mm wide. We will be testing it in 9mm width as well.

So far the sprague is fine. These are designed to run in very unforgiving environments (like gravel conveyors).

Yes, it would work fine with a sprocket. I may look into that as well for a future project. Right now, I have a redesign of some components going on that is taking up all my time and resources. :)

Matt
 
recumpence said:
....So far the sprague is fine. These are designed to run in very unforgiving environments (like gravel conveyors)....

With this kind of one-way, does rpm matter or only the torque?
 
RPM matters. If it is run up at 3,000 rpm it gets very warm (I have one chucked up in my drill press spinning at 3,100 RPM for long durations to test). But that is 3,000 rpm of spinning (not when locked) for a number of minutes at a time.

Matt
 
what is the difference in efficiency between belt and chain drives? [if any?]
 
There is an efficiency difference in high RPM setups, but not in low RPM setups like this (or not as much). There looks to be a slight improvement in efficiency, but we have not put enough miles on these belt drives yet to get precise numbers.

Matt
 
I'm late to this discussion but allow to also add my appreciation of how great the drive looks and performs. What would be the possibility of adapting this drive system to use with a Sturmey Archer 3 spd internal/9 spd cassette hub described in this thread?

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=24449

Particularly for a dual right hand drive?

Rich
 
I have been running a belt drive / belt drive for the last year or so with 800 watt brushed motor, before it was a ice set up, using belt drive/ belt drive.

I need to post pictures of my bike with the single reduction 14 tooth to 110 tooth rear sprocket.
I posted earlier about using matt's setup on my bike to get me up to 60 mph :D
I have been using pheifer industries for the last 7 years, the owner will answer any pulley / ratio needs etc.

thanks
Mike
orlando

gates 8mm poly gt 12mm drive belt / gates carbon gt 8mm 12 mm crank pedal belt
 
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