A123 AMP20 cell diagnostics

RayGo said:
As soon as the unit powers up, you must hold down the INC or DEC button to change the values for the input power, timer and/or buzzer. See bottom of Page 6 of User Manual. If the Input Power screen changes to the next Safety Timer screen, just power down and start over again to catch the Input Power screen. You get 3 seconds to make a change. However, my unit doesn't flag an error if the input power is set too high...
RayGo, you rock man! So yea, I did make the change, from 500 watts, apparently the factory default, to 350 watts, the rating of my T350 PSU. It helped - I was able to get to 23 minutes of balance charging before **ERROR** snuck-up on me. 2x**GRRRRR**+1*Freaked+5xWhatTheFrack!!!! Anyway, its a new record, a whole 23 minutes of balance charging and in fact, my celllogs show me a better balance between cells, so its progress in the right direction.
 
Thunder 1220 Balance Charger in 5 easy steps
1. Wire it up
- a set of balance wires to each pole of each cell
- a two pole wire to battery pos/neg leads
T1220-1.png
2. Adjust input power setting to match power supply
- in my case, a T350 PSU, so adjusting that from 500 watts (factory default) to 350 watts
T1220-2.png
3. Set the LiFe manual settings
- from LiPo to LiFe, for a LiFePO4 chemistry pack
- a charge rate; I found the 3.0 amp setting works good
- the capacity of your pack, in mAh; 20000 for the A123 AMP20 cells
T1220-3.png
4. Start the balance charge
- the screen display for CHG/BLC will kick in
T1220-4.png
5. Monitor progress
- the amps will fluctuate based on the program algorithm
- the Capacity (mAh) is the actual mAh input
- Volts is the actual battery voltage at any point in time
 
arkmundi said:
RayGo, you rock man! So yea, I did make the change, from 500 watts, apparently the factory default, to 350 watts, the rating of my T350 PSU. It helped - I was able to get to 23 minutes of balance charging before **ERROR** snuck-up on me. 2x**GRRRRR**+1*Freaked+5xWhatTheFrack!!!! Anyway, its a new record, a whole 23 minutes of balance charging and in fact, my celllogs show me a better balance between cells, so its progress in the right direction.
So lower it to 300W and you probably won't get an error ever again. Or get a bigger psu.
 
wesnewell said:
So lower it to 300W and you probably won't get an error ever again. Or get a bigger psu.
OK, did that, 300W and still get the **ERROR**. I bought the T1220 and T350 PSU at the same time from the same vendor with the explicit question: "What's a good compatible PSU for the T1220?" And they said, then sold me the T350. If its the PSU, back it goes for an exchange. What wattage PSU do you suggest? Thanks.
 
So, did THIS google search for "thunder 1220 charger "car batt. empty"" and found this thread: Thunder 1220 Problems, at rcgroups.com, which suggested:
Mark said:
Measure the actual output voltage of the PSU when you get the error message and report back.
Do you have low input voltage set on your charger?
Mark
Good idea, so:
T1220-PSU.png
Which shows that at the time the error happens, its at 15.48V, close to the 15.5V at which it starts. But Mark asks "Do you have low input voltage set on your charger?" Again, I've looked through the Operations Manual for the umpteenth time and don't have a clue where that displays or can be set.
 
999zip999 said:
Maybe the power supply has 15 volts but very little amps to give.
Its a 350 watt power supply - it can deliver. I don't think its the PSU. I believe its the T1220, or its internal algorithm, that's reporting an error in the power supply when there is none. I've exhausted the topic here at ES. All you good people have been informative and helpful. When I posted for help, I thought it was me, some noob thing, not getting the setup right. That was partly true, as the above will atest. But now its up to the vendor who sold me this product to decide what's wrong and what to do. Thanks again, all.
 
arkmundi said:
999zip999 said:
Maybe the power supply has 15 volts but very little amps to give.
Its a 350 watt power supply - it can deliver. I don't think its the PSU. I believe its the T1220, or its internal algorithm, that's reporting an error in the power supply when there is none. I've exhausted the topic here at ES. All you good people have been informative and helpful. When I posted for help, I thought it was me, some noob thing, not getting the setup right. That was partly true, as the above will atest. But now its up to the vendor who sold me this product to decide what's wrong and what to do. Thanks again, all.

your charger may be detecting a voltage spike that drops the voltage under some preset screening voltage which provokes it to shut off for low voltage. your power supply may not be adequately supported by capacitors on the output and the feedback from the buck converter in the balancing charger may be making that voltage noise feed back to the input.

but that is just wild haired guess. maybe a poor connection somewhere on the input too.
 
dnmun said:
your charger may be detecting a voltage spike that drops the voltage under some preset screening voltage which provokes it to shut off for low voltage. your power supply may not be adequately supported by capacitors on the output and the feedback from the buck converter in the balancing charger may be making that voltage noise feed back to the input.
I've got my multimeter wired into the PSU output and can watch the voltage throughout the process. The wires and connections are all good. After "Start", the charger begins the CHG/BLC process and shows it amping up to the 3.0 amp limit set. There's a corresponding slight drop in the PSU voltage from 15.5 to around 15.4. Then **ERROR** and the charger stops charging and voltage goes back towards 15.5. There is no indication of a "voltage spike", but thanks for the suggestion.
 
dnmun said:
you would have to use a scope to see that kinda noise.
I'm on the low end here in arkmundiland. Don't have such. Are you suggesting that the T350 may be a poor quality PSU and that with a better PSU it wouldn't trigger the charger's **ERROR** algorithm? Suggesting also that zipman's suggestion of using a car battery would in fact eliminate the charger as the culprit and finger the PSU?
 
the balancing charger uses an inductive circuit to change the voltage from the 12V nominal up to the 50V or so required to charge a pack.

the output of the power supply will have capacitors to stabilize the output voltage but there may be some level of interaction between the boost converter in the charger and the output of the power supply that allows the input voltage to swing rapidly and if the microprocessor on the charger can see this it might think the voltage is too low coming from the battery.

your meter will not be able to detect such a short voltage drop. it could be exacerbated by a poor connection on the power supply output or the charger input. but like i said that is just speculation on my part.
 
I'd like to see how it works with a different power source. The error message is pointing to the PSU being bad. If you have a 16V or higher capacitor you could put across the psu output, I'd try that and see if it helps. If it does, your psu is bad. A DVM may not even register short voltage drops, and if it did, you'd have to be watching it at exact time to see it. If that's the problem, the cap should fix it. It could also be your AC power to the psu. Are you sure that circuit is good and stable?
 
If you can get your hands on a 12V battery and 12V charger, hook those in parallel as a power source. With the charger running you will get a good power source. But don't try just a 12v charger by itself. It won't be stable enough and probably won't even output any power without a battery connected.
 
dnmun said:
your meter will not be able to detect such a short voltage drop. it could be exacerbated by a poor connection on the power supply output or the charger input. but like i said that is just speculation on my part.
Yea, I'm at the point where speculation isn't going to help. Appreciated the explanation of what's on the inside of the packaging though. Need the vendor to own the problem and provide assistance - either replacements or suggestions that will make **ERROR** go away, so I can get on with life in the pleasant lane. I've opened a support ticket, so that's in process...
 

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What happened to the stock balance boards. The ones pictured don't look like the stock ones I got with mine and look suspect (manhandled) and where I would start. Also, you never answered or showed what you have for power leads / connections. The manual is clear that cabling on both sides will cause a multitude of problems. You have from your description a classic "noise" issue. You live in a big town and there must be a few hundred car batteries within a mile. Not ruling the PS out that way is just insane IMO. I am not getting on your case, but lots of folks have suggested this over and over again and you want to complain about the vendor. I know this must be frustrating, but take a deep breath and show all the details and the folks here will walk you through the issue, or at least help you learn what exactly is going wrong.
 
speedmd said:
I am not getting on your case, but lots of folks have suggested this over and over again and you want to complain about the vendor. I know this must be frustrating, but take a deep breath and show all the details and the folks here will walk you through the issue, or at least help you learn what exactly is going wrong.
I'm not complaining at all, about the vendor, the good people here at ES, or even about the Thunder 1220. Its too early to complain - all this is new, new to me and new equipment. I'm in an information gathering phase, to access what's going on. I opened a ticket with vendor, because there is some significant expertise there - they are apparently the number seller of the Thunder 1220 and provide "support" for their products, through an online ticketing process. I have yet to get their opinion. Until I do, I'm suggesting hitting the "pause" button on this dialog. Yes, there are options to follow-through on, in diagnosing and eliminating the **ERROR**, including the ones you suggest. I'm just not ready to pursue them yet. Many thanks, however. I'll be baaacckkk!
 
999zip999 said:
Was thinking of a 1220 as my 1420 is unstable no as bad as Doc's. Where did you buy this 1220 a nd where are they located ?
Since I rewired the main battery cables both chargers seem to work better. My trike is down for repairs and refitting so I won't know till next week if they still charge OK. The Thunder is much more stabile than the Hyperion.
otherDoc
I'm using a 25 amp power supply but I get that error message in the Thunder if I go over 6 amps. I usually charge at 4 amps. I think those powersupplies are way over rated!
 
speedmd said:
Yes, pause, but what are you using for balance boards, cables, connectors?
I don't have a "balance board" if you mean a BMS, having chosen the NO-BMS route. I bought a "balance extension cable" from RC supply, kind that has 7 JST-XH Connectors for 6S, perfectly matched to the chargers balance leads. I cut male ends off the end and used the agniusm hex bolts to secure to the battery as a balance harness. I use Anderson powerpoles for the main battery connection. For the main charger cable, I cut the bullet connectors off and soldered Andersons on in place, so its a bullet connector on the charger side and Anderson on the battery side. All wiring was voltage and current checked. Nothing is loose.
docnjoj said:
I'm using a 25 amp power supply but I get that error message in the Thunder if I go over 6 amps. I usually charge at 4 amps. I think those powersupplies are way over rated!
Ahhh, someone with the A123 AMP20's using the Thunder 1220 for balancing that has experienced the **ERROR**. So, the amperage draw on the PSU, based on the amperage rate set to charge the battery, can somehow trigger it. It seems to confirm my suspicion that the hardware/firmware circuit meant to "protect the car battery" from being emptied is trigger happy.
 
Some useful insight from my experiment
I just returned from a Sunday afternoon trip the the park. Its Elm Park, in Worcester, the first municipal park in America, designed by Frederick Law Olmsted. Beautiful park currently in the process of being restored to its original glory. And with a new children's playgound.

In the process of upgrading my active monitoring and balance charging, I put in a balance harness to my pack (see thread above). This allowed me to finally get around to using my Celllogs - 2x8S. I got them last winter but they've been sitting in a box until I finally got around to this upgrade. So, with Celllogs on, I use my 6 amp smart charger to charge it up, with some interesting results.

After my ride, the cells are remarkably in balance:
+ pole, pos (ride 1, 2, 3, 4 ...)
1 - 3. 32, 3. 29, 3. 32, 3. 28
2 - 3.32, 3. 32, 3. 32, 3. 28
3 - 3.32, 3. 32, 3. 32, 3. 28
4 - 3.32, 3. 32 , 3. 32, 3. 28
5 - 3.33, 3. 32, 3. 32, 3. 28
6 - 3.28, 3. 30, 3. 28, 3. 23
7 - 3.28, 3. 32, 3. 28, 3. 26
8 - 3.32, 3. 32, 3. 32, 3. 28
9 - 3.32, 3. 32, 3. 32, 3. 28
10 - 3.32, 3. 32, 3. 31, 3. 28
11 - 3.32, 3. 33, 3. 32, 3. 28
12 - 3.29, 3. 28, 3. 28, 3. 24
- pole, neg

Just sat there and watched the Celllogs as I charged, seeing the voltage inch upwards. One cell in particular, however, the #6 cell went up to 3.81 volts before I pulled the plug early. I think we'd all agree that's too high. All the other cells were in the 3.38 to 3.60 range. Just the one on the high side. After yanking the charge, it then began to slowly "settle" downwards, to 3.71. Then after a short ride, the cells are balanced again, as above.
 
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