A123 AMP20M1HD-A Battery pack kit

Well folks Ace is the place. M3x10mm was in the hardware drawer of Metric Screws. These will do in an emergency but I am ordering some ss button heads from a screw dealer. The phillips heads are a teeny bit too wide for the termination pieces but work fine on the regular blocks. Unfortunately they are not stainless but should be OK using No-Ox on the threads. I am sure glad we use the Metric system this time!
otherDoc
 
I solved the problem of the needed bolts by ordering 100 in a box online. They were really inexpensive except for shipping but definitely worth it. If anyone comes up with missing 3mmx 10 mm button head bolts let me know and I can stick what you need in the post. I'm gonna wait until they show up so I can use all stainless hardware so I guess I will start by soldering the wires to the holes for the balancing stuff.
otherDoc
 
Good stuff, i was thinking of sending out missing bolts:) Will have to work out some sort of boxes to pack parts as you lose grip counting:)
How was drilling holes on the tabs?
 
I just got a 1/8 (3mm) hole puncher to start today with holes. I have no desire to try to drill them. Pictures later today. $6 from Amazon
otherDoc
 
Here you go, agniusm! IT is not as fancy or efficient as the one you designed, but it is cheap.

http://www.amazon.com/Fiskars-12-23518897-Punch-8-Inch-Circle/dp/B0001DT3ZE/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1342116500&sr=8-4&keywords=hole+punch

otherDoc
 
I'm seeing problems with "short tabs" in another thread with NASA photos of what is supposedly an A123 cell. I am considering leaving my tabs full length and still attaching them to agniusm's board. I know that Ping leaves a bit of slack at the tabs so they don't tear off when they may puff a bit. I do intend to support the flat sides and possibly the edges of the battery with either alloy or hardboard. Any comments would be welcomed.
otherDoc
 
could be a problem for you here. are you. going to fold the tab to required length and then punch holes? End tabs might get too thick as they support top pcb. Option is to add some washers if you decide to go this way.
 
Well we will see. I know I have to insulate the lower aluminum blocks with tape. so it may work. I can always cut them down to the 8mm length later if it fails. I am waiting for the Fedex truck with the punchers to begin. Thanks for the warning. Your boards will never be the primary support of the packs. I will use other materials and tape to support them on edge. I don't believe that the power connections should also be the support. I dont plan to fold the tabs but may have to insulate a bit more.
otherDoc
 
Yea I tend to agree I am also a bit hesitant to cut my tabs for a few different reasons.

I have all my cells cycled, charged and balanced. Still waiting on my BMS , but figure I will start putting my pack together.
 
ohzee said:
Yea I tend to agree I am also a bit hesitant to cut my tabs for a few different reasons.

I have all my cells cycled, charged and balanced. Still waiting on my BMS , but figure I will start putting my pack together.
Click to expand...
I've held off also since I dont think the tabs themselves on new cells should short. I will separate the cells with silicone paper and hope for the best. The new cells that if got seem to be pristine and I am holding off charging them until I make 6S batteries. Less voltage means smaller sparks. :lol:
otherDoc
 
docnjoj said:
I dont plan to fold the tabs but may have to insulate a bit more.
Click to expand...

Here you mean you will still fold 90 degrees for 8mm length to attach bolts, but will allow the excess of full tab to hang down underneath.

This is exactly what I plan to do too, so the tiny band of the plastic insulator is not damaged.
 
deVries said:
docnjoj said:
I dont plan to fold the tabs but may have to insulate a bit more.
Click to expand...

Here you mean you will still fold 90 degrees for 8mm length to attach bolts, but will allow the excess of full tab to hang down underneath.

This is exactly what I plan to do too, so the tiny band of the plastic insulator is not damaged.
Click to expand...

Yes deVries, that is my plan. I have 2 extra cells incase I screw something up!
otherDoc
 
cassschr1 said:
anybody running into cells with high internal resistence, or squishy, I have a couple. 50 out of 100 run so far.
Click to expand...

Off topic, please, if you are offering some cells there is appropriate buy/sell section!
 
Okey Dokey folks I started putting one together. It is not as easy as it looks! I do have a question in case I'm doing something wrong. The first cell is in positionand there seems to be some interference from the white connector that will go out for balance wires. The corner of the cells occupy the same space. Do I just fold the corner of the cell or is there another way? I am using a low power electric driver and that makes it a bit easier but I finish the tightning by a hand driver.
Pics or it didn't happen :)
IMG_0354.JPGIMG_0355.JPGView attachment 1

otherDoc
Edit: DUH! I started it upside down. when all else fails watch the film! I belong on the short bus today!

There that's better!IMG_0357.JPG
 
Oh man, good that you left first photo, that was enteraining :D Fold the edge :DDD Now just use some masking tape before you do next ones. I suggest to leave balancing connector cliped in so u hide exposed balancing pins just in case.
 
agniusm said:
Oh man, good that you left first photo, that was enteraining :D Fold the edge :DDD Now just use some masking tape before you do next ones. I suggest to leave balancing connector cliped in so u hide exposed balancing pins just in case.
Click to expand...
Yeah I had a "senior moment!" Good suggestion to keep the pins covered. I have painters tape to help also.
otherDoc
 
Well I have 3 cells in and am developing some technique but I had several "sizzling" events and rule number one (that I finally followed :oops: )is definitely tape off the places you aren't working on. These batts even when not fully charged really pack a punch! One trick is to punch holes right near the edge as those tabs are tougher to bend than they look. Also the socket head screws work well to hold the blocks in place while you then can use those little tiny button heads to crank things down. A scratch awl works good to line up holes with tabs. That's all folks (for now.)
otherDoc
 
After handling these cells if not very careful or very lucky. They will wake you up. So when putting togethere it is best just to have to do it once. They are very alive. I use a chop stick to line up the tab holes as I try to use non-conductive tools now, plastic ruler ect. Good luck thanks Docnjoj.
 
Sure woke me up! Bamboo skewer sounds like a good idea. I had no trouble with thw awl as it is in an appropriate place to not contact other terminals. I just forgot when I was screwing a block in and it shifted.Zap!
otherDoc
I wish I could sit and do it in one sitting but I was sweating bullets after the three I did. It is not easy work for an old guy!
 
Here's a question I just thought of. What kind of connectors are the ones on the kits just in case I screw one of the pins up during soldering and assembly?
Thanks in advance
otherDoc
 
docnjoj said:
Here's a question I just thought of. What kind of connectors are the ones on the kits just in case I screw one of the pins up during soldering and assembly?
Thanks in advance
otherDoc
Click to expand...

They are nsg39, nsk39 and nsl39, nsk39 being for the pins. Strip your balancing wires, put some solder on, trim to 3mm aprox. Slide heatshrink on each wire. Put some solder on each pin, solder wire to the pin. Bend pin legs over the wire, heatshrink, check balancing leads order, clip them in, done.

I have received balancing wires from hobbyking today. To my surprize i have ordered wrong ones, 3s. I have made 6s out of 2 of them and all is good. Charged the batt and can use my icharger for draw tests and monitor individual cells. Now need to find some quiet time to do the vid. cheers
 
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