999zip999
100 TW
999zip999 said:
About my Animal and me, advice appreciated
- Thread starter knutselmaaster
- Start date
vptech
10 mW
After shrinking your pics down so I could properly see them, you would have great difficulty mounting any hub with that brake setup. I don't think a little one would even fit with that spacing but someone else with more knowledge of the "cute" ones may chime in here. But sorry I have to agree, look at another bike as a base to build on.
P.S. for people having trouble seeing the pictures, hold the ctrl key and tap the - (minus) until you see it. Go back to "View", 100% when done.
P.S. for people having trouble seeing the pictures, hold the ctrl key and tap the - (minus) until you see it. Go back to "View", 100% when done.
knutselmaaster
1 kW
I got a non standard bracket size (172mm if I recall well) so a hub motor seems the only option.
Or are there different sizes bracket engines?
PIC scale nicely for me on chrome android and windows opera... Sry
Or are there different sizes bracket engines?
PIC scale nicely for me on chrome android and windows opera... Sry
dogman dan
1 PW
Anothrer good reason you are getting multiple people advising you to make the first bike easier, a commuter only bike for routes that don't include hucks and stairs. (do they call a jump a huck in france?) Whether a hardtail or suspension bike, one that has a big open frame triangle is ideal, and also, some big flat plates on the rear dropouts make the torque arms easier to fabricate.
John has the right idea, for the hucks and stairs, perhaps a bottom bracket drive would be much better than the hubmotor idea. Then you have less problems with fitting the brakes and such. And you keep your baby closer to like it was, with the wheels you love. The extra weight of the hubmotor on the wheel does not help your spokes and rims when jumping. Lotta weight on the wrong side of the suspension.
One commuter on an easy frame, then do a bb drive on your baby. both can run on the same battery. Or, just go with the bb drive on the bike you have.
John has the right idea, for the hucks and stairs, perhaps a bottom bracket drive would be much better than the hubmotor idea. Then you have less problems with fitting the brakes and such. And you keep your baby closer to like it was, with the wheels you love. The extra weight of the hubmotor on the wheel does not help your spokes and rims when jumping. Lotta weight on the wrong side of the suspension.
One commuter on an easy frame, then do a bb drive on your baby. both can run on the same battery. Or, just go with the bb drive on the bike you have.
knutselmaaster
1 kW
OK, i have convidence in your experience, if you all say that it won't be satisfying to do the hub thing on my animal it must be so.
Still, I want to go to work on my bike because it is so much more fun than standing in overfilled suburb public transport for an hour and not because it is good for my health, good for the environment or cheaper.
And on a heavy transport bike that goes very fast on a long straight I just won't be amused, I will quickly find it dull and that is not worth the investment.
So, if the two speed hub doesn't seem like a good idea neither, I should look for a bracket engine.
The bafang seems the best choice if I may believe this:
http://www.electricbike.com/bafang-bbso2-750w-mid-drive/
But looking at the pics it really won't fit because I have got a wider bracket.
If there is a 73mm wide bracket engine than I will try that.
Too bad for my hand painted anodised kooka crank
Still, I want to go to work on my bike because it is so much more fun than standing in overfilled suburb public transport for an hour and not because it is good for my health, good for the environment or cheaper.
And on a heavy transport bike that goes very fast on a long straight I just won't be amused, I will quickly find it dull and that is not worth the investment.
So, if the two speed hub doesn't seem like a good idea neither, I should look for a bracket engine.
The bafang seems the best choice if I may believe this:
http://www.electricbike.com/bafang-bbso2-750w-mid-drive/
But looking at the pics it really won't fit because I have got a wider bracket.
If there is a 73mm wide bracket engine than I will try that.
Too bad for my hand painted anodised kooka crank
knutselmaaster
1 kW
Been reading and reading since last message.
I do not like the bracket system.
It will change the bike in some kind of moped.
I already have a vespa ciao.
I will have to change the entire drive train for that, and that makes the bike useless without a battery.
Plus the weak, square axe crank is really a no go, I have too many bad experiences with those.
Not even mentioning the double (at least) price, I have not found it for less than $450 incl. Shipping, and that is at a Chinese vendor who obviously hasn't got the 173mm adapted model as that seems to be an aftermarket modification.
The challenge is to keep the bike as close to it's original state as possible, just with the addition of a "constant wind in the back" to be able to reach a higher top speed and lower influence of wind on my average speed.
I don't want a lot of power, I definateley don't need any help below 20km/h, only once in a while for a few seconds to help me get passed a difficult technical single track section and I need just that little boost I lost with my age.
I search a gentle hand that can go stealth and can easily be left at home or disabled, leaving a good MTB that is just a bit too heavy.
Maybe I just don't explain myself well enough...
The use of the bike now is:
-Playing Ingress (geolocation game)
-Going for 25 to 50km recreational asphalt rides with an average of approximately 20 km/h
-Some singletrack easy going cross-country MTB
-when there is an obstacle and I'm in a happy mood I jump (speed bump and stuff, just some small low speed fun)
-Sometimes I do very steep downhill at very low speed on city obstacles (like the fairway of a bridge, a tunnel entrance, etc)
-occasionally I drive down forest roads downhill at 45km/h but here it can never be longer than a few hundred metres until reaching the valley. (Length, not hight difference)
I just want to continue doing that, and use some electric force to help me do that from home to work with an average speed of 30 km/h+ over a 35km+ distance.
As 80% of the stretch to work is an asphalted bikeway, without any need to slow down, a sustained speed is quite easy and thus the average speed will be quite high even if I slow down a lot in the other 20%.
I weigh just 65kg and my position on the bike is quite "flat" and I will put some very low friction semi slicks on there.
I came to the conclusion before posting my first post here, that the choice would be between a q100, a q100h or one of the bafang swx series.
I thought I just needed to know if the cute are resistant enough, if not I would have chosen the swx and asked help define which exact model and voltage I needed.
But instead of making things easier for me, I'm all confused and a lot less confident that I even want to do anything at all.....
Don't get me wrong, I really appreciate all of your answers as I need to ask myself all those questions before starting the project and I would never have found the right questions to ask myself without you all.
Still, I'm so confused :s
I do not like the bracket system.
It will change the bike in some kind of moped.
I already have a vespa ciao.
I will have to change the entire drive train for that, and that makes the bike useless without a battery.
Plus the weak, square axe crank is really a no go, I have too many bad experiences with those.
Not even mentioning the double (at least) price, I have not found it for less than $450 incl. Shipping, and that is at a Chinese vendor who obviously hasn't got the 173mm adapted model as that seems to be an aftermarket modification.
The challenge is to keep the bike as close to it's original state as possible, just with the addition of a "constant wind in the back" to be able to reach a higher top speed and lower influence of wind on my average speed.
I don't want a lot of power, I definateley don't need any help below 20km/h, only once in a while for a few seconds to help me get passed a difficult technical single track section and I need just that little boost I lost with my age.
I search a gentle hand that can go stealth and can easily be left at home or disabled, leaving a good MTB that is just a bit too heavy.
Maybe I just don't explain myself well enough...
The use of the bike now is:
-Playing Ingress (geolocation game)
-Going for 25 to 50km recreational asphalt rides with an average of approximately 20 km/h
-Some singletrack easy going cross-country MTB
-when there is an obstacle and I'm in a happy mood I jump (speed bump and stuff, just some small low speed fun)
-Sometimes I do very steep downhill at very low speed on city obstacles (like the fairway of a bridge, a tunnel entrance, etc)
-occasionally I drive down forest roads downhill at 45km/h but here it can never be longer than a few hundred metres until reaching the valley. (Length, not hight difference)
I just want to continue doing that, and use some electric force to help me do that from home to work with an average speed of 30 km/h+ over a 35km+ distance.
As 80% of the stretch to work is an asphalted bikeway, without any need to slow down, a sustained speed is quite easy and thus the average speed will be quite high even if I slow down a lot in the other 20%.
I weigh just 65kg and my position on the bike is quite "flat" and I will put some very low friction semi slicks on there.
I came to the conclusion before posting my first post here, that the choice would be between a q100, a q100h or one of the bafang swx series.
I thought I just needed to know if the cute are resistant enough, if not I would have chosen the swx and asked help define which exact model and voltage I needed.
But instead of making things easier for me, I'm all confused and a lot less confident that I even want to do anything at all.....
Don't get me wrong, I really appreciate all of your answers as I need to ask myself all those questions before starting the project and I would never have found the right questions to ask myself without you all.
Still, I'm so confused :s
Buy the little MAC the 350. I have that and em3ev's bottle battery 48V and 11.6AH (manufacturers rating 11.0AH em3ev rating).
25A controller
The range is easily achievable and the speed, will help you do 40km/hr if you wish or simply do it on its own.
My kit was $1300 landed in Perth
No-one here is unhappy with the MAC, plenty unhappy with compromises.
I spent a month reading here and said.....thems the brakes, get what you pay for!
25A controller
The range is easily achievable and the speed, will help you do 40km/hr if you wish or simply do it on its own.
My kit was $1300 landed in Perth
No-one here is unhappy with the MAC, plenty unhappy with compromises.
I spent a month reading here and said.....thems the brakes, get what you pay for!
dogman dan
1 PW
I never said your commuter bike has to be lame and boring. ( mine is though)
We have said jumping a Mac may damage it, but if you just don't do jumps on your commute, you can do some fun riding on the commute. Your commute bike can be capable of 60- 70kph if you spend the money.
Crystalyte HS motor and a 72v 40 amps controller for example. Then 20s (twenty cells in series) of RC lico batteries. 10 ah will get you about 10 miles of 60 kph riding.
What we have been saying is that your lovely bike is not perfectly suited for conversion to a hubmotor. Get a decent bike with some space for carrying the battery, and rear dropouts better suited to the installation of a hubmotor.
I'm not trying to discourage you from building a badass ebike. But I'll often recommend that people who love their bike don't ruin their favorite bike by converting it.
We have said jumping a Mac may damage it, but if you just don't do jumps on your commute, you can do some fun riding on the commute. Your commute bike can be capable of 60- 70kph if you spend the money.
Crystalyte HS motor and a 72v 40 amps controller for example. Then 20s (twenty cells in series) of RC lico batteries. 10 ah will get you about 10 miles of 60 kph riding.
What we have been saying is that your lovely bike is not perfectly suited for conversion to a hubmotor. Get a decent bike with some space for carrying the battery, and rear dropouts better suited to the installation of a hubmotor.
I'm not trying to discourage you from building a badass ebike. But I'll often recommend that people who love their bike don't ruin their favorite bike by converting it.
knutselmaaster
1 kW
Wouldn't it be possible to reverse afterwards you think Dogman?
Like, I buy the kit that matches my desires the most, install it on my Animal and try.
If I don't like the result, I can't simply put back the old wheel and stuff, and put the whole kit on another bike?
I can make axle blocking things that fit my bike myself, 10 years of mechanic experience after the watch making school have their advantage, so I don't worry that much about that.
Should I worry and why?
Like, I buy the kit that matches my desires the most, install it on my Animal and try.
If I don't like the result, I can't simply put back the old wheel and stuff, and put the whole kit on another bike?
I can make axle blocking things that fit my bike myself, 10 years of mechanic experience after the watch making school have their advantage, so I don't worry that much about that.
Should I worry and why?
dogman dan
1 PW
Yep, you can do that, if your initial unforeseen mistake does not bust the dropouts off your animal. It does happen a lot, motors really put a lot of torque on the axle, which spins and ruins frames. That's why all the others chiming in about finding a cheap steel frame for the first try. You'll be amazed how good a cheaper bike can feel when you put 1500w of power on it.
Plus, you still have no good way to carry a larger battery on that frame. Your animal will be perfect for slightly shorter rides, that need only about 8 pounds of battery. ( tolerable on the rear rack) But I thought your commute needed closer to 14-15 pounds of battery.
A Mac 10t and 48v is a very popular choice that has made a lot of guys very happy. It can handle some bumps, but just don't jump it all the time.
Brace yourself, you are about to start down a very slippery slope of spending. For example, I have no money, but I have 6 different Ebikes, and many motors and extra frames sitting in the garage. And I wear out batteries all the time. It's VERY addicting, but worth it.
Plus, you still have no good way to carry a larger battery on that frame. Your animal will be perfect for slightly shorter rides, that need only about 8 pounds of battery. ( tolerable on the rear rack) But I thought your commute needed closer to 14-15 pounds of battery.
A Mac 10t and 48v is a very popular choice that has made a lot of guys very happy. It can handle some bumps, but just don't jump it all the time.
Brace yourself, you are about to start down a very slippery slope of spending. For example, I have no money, but I have 6 different Ebikes, and many motors and extra frames sitting in the garage. And I wear out batteries all the time. It's VERY addicting, but worth it.
dogman dan
1 PW
I don't doubt your ability to fabricate some solid torque plates for the animal, It's just not a rear dropout type that makes the first try easy.
If you can find a fairly cheap used bike, do your first motor mounting experiments on that bike. I have a lot of experience, and my best bike, I did make torque plates to fit it. Then I chickened out, not wanting to ruin my best bike. I just decided that if something happened to my favorite, I could not afford to replace that frame.
But I am looking at how I can scrape up some money, and try the newer bafang bottom bracket drive on that bike. 8) That's the kind of motor best suited for my favorite, and highest quality full suspension bike.
If you can find a fairly cheap used bike, do your first motor mounting experiments on that bike. I have a lot of experience, and my best bike, I did make torque plates to fit it. Then I chickened out, not wanting to ruin my best bike. I just decided that if something happened to my favorite, I could not afford to replace that frame.
But I am looking at how I can scrape up some money, and try the newer bafang bottom bracket drive on that bike. 8) That's the kind of motor best suited for my favorite, and highest quality full suspension bike.
knutselmaaster
1 kW
There is a lot of room to add two torque arms, and a lot of surface to fix them.
What is the weak point?
What is the weak point?
MitchJi
10 MW
Hi,
A small 250 watt motor will have sufficient power for that if it's a mid drive, driving through the gears. A mid drive also addresses the problem of impacts from jumping destroying your motor. In other words a bottom bracket drive is the best solution for your requirements.
This kit would be a good choice for you::
Excellent quality components. The motor has more power than you need. Two options, you could probably adapt the kit to accept a smaller motor (he sells all the individual parts), or maybe pay Mike to do that for you. The only advantage to doing that would be that you might be able to shave a kilo or so of weight, and possibly eliminate one stage of reduction. Other than a little extra weight, what's the problem with too much power if you don't use it?
I think you should also consider the Cycle Analyst with a torque sensor for proportional no-throttle control:
http://www.ebikes.ca/product-info/grin-products/cycle-analyst-3.html
If it fits your bike (I can't easily see your pictures), this seems like exactly what you want (except for the price):
http://www.vivax-assist.com/en/produkte/vivax-assist.html
This is a simple problem. You want to use a small motor that will provide some mild assist climbing hills, and at higher speeds and you want to jump and go down stairs.knutselmaaster said:
A small 250 watt motor will have sufficient power for that if it's a mid drive, driving through the gears. A mid drive also addresses the problem of impacts from jumping destroying your motor. In other words a bottom bracket drive is the best solution for your requirements.
This kit would be a good choice for you::
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=57720
Excellent quality components. The motor has more power than you need. Two options, you could probably adapt the kit to accept a smaller motor (he sells all the individual parts), or maybe pay Mike to do that for you. The only advantage to doing that would be that you might be able to shave a kilo or so of weight, and possibly eliminate one stage of reduction. Other than a little extra weight, what's the problem with too much power if you don't use it?
I think you should also consider the Cycle Analyst with a torque sensor for proportional no-throttle control:
http://www.ebikes.ca/product-info/grin-products/cycle-analyst-3.html
Why do you say that?knutselmaaster said:
If it fits your bike (I can't easily see your pictures), this seems like exactly what you want (except for the price):
http://www.vivax-assist.com/en/produkte/vivax-assist.html
