AM dual motor = bafang middrive + rear hub motor

I have had to do some water crossings but this was the freakiest with no where to put my feet.
[youtube]keYQJXqXfCg[/youtube]
Was another awesome ride on parts I have not covered before. Bloody steep valleys that go straight down and then up the other side of this pool.

Have also put down money for the satiator which I should get happening late next week...
 
John Bozi said:
I am scared of deep water
I reckon! You seemed positively freaked out there, or you were in a hurry :lol:
 
That pool is on the Hohman track and only mildy less steep than hellhole pool we went to Oldhaq.

It was however rougher riding to the base, and I think somewhere along that track I broke a couple of spokes. Today as I went up that way about 15kms and just discovered a new section and then "twang" looked down and saw a broken spoke and then saw all up 3 broken spokes.

In hindsight, or retrospect I remember riding off this morning thinking my wheel had an unbalanced or untrue sound. I should have investigate...

I ended up riding 15kms home at about 15kmh worried that the wheel might collapse on me suddenly.

DAM DAM DAM

Just when I get happy with how everything is running on my build, another set back. I should have 3 spare spokes left, but now thinking that the radial design is finally showing its ugly weakness.

So many options to consider... if it happens again order more of the same to keep fixing or drill out the eyelets and get thicker spokes. Or give up on this motor or rim or both etc.

I don't need massive amounts of torque hence weight when I have the bafang doing the climbing side.... any bloody way. All I know is I need two bikes on the go for these types of situations.... thinking about putting a mac on my carbon bike and turn it into a road bike with the hookworms I got for 26"...
 
Broken spoke is the most common problem of high power hub motors on a bike, the bigger and more powerful the motor the worse this gets and one of many advantages of a mid drive offroad.

If you are happy with the BBs02 750w mid drive for crawling up hills , i can't help but thinking get rid of that heavy lump of lead in your back wheel and instead get a high power mid drive will do what you want hill climbeing.

Hillclmbeing with a hub motors is the most illogical use for them, that's where mid drives excel not hub motors.
 
Gab said:
Broken spoke is the most common problem of high power hub motors on a bike, the bigger and more powerful the motor the worse this gets and one of many advantages of a mid drive offroad.

If you are happy with the BBs02 750w mid drive for crawling up hills , i can't help but thinking get rid of that heavy lump of lead in your back wheel and instead get a high power mid drive will do what you want hill climbeing.

Hillclmbeing with a hub motors is the most illogical use for them, that's where mid drives excel not hub motors.

I hear you Gab, I guess after broken spokes, axles or dropout problems too... Regen basically means I only use brakes on super steep descents, which is great but I can hear a squeak everytime I power on after regen and the other way. I know it's coming from the drive side which has a C45py universal torque arm. I am guessing its the tube clamps.

Yeah I am happy with the bafang crawling. There are a few people out there that think there is no need to be able to go slow steep or otherwise. However, that is fiction. Almost every steep off road section has ruts and erosion, rocks etc by it very nature of being steep. By being able to ride throught it slowly you can easily choose your way through it. High speeding through at more than 10kmh is often not an option on the terrain I do,

I still do stuff which near its limits where it starts bogging down but that is also the limit of traction so 30 front 48 rear in 20" wheel can't be given up on. The problem with AFt would be still needing to use mtb gears which I don't know if I can gear down that much with? if the its like 24t front 32t... ah Ill do the math another day.

dedicated gearing....

Would be nice to do a two speed mid drive one pedal side the granny gear like now and the other a sprocket that fits under the caliper under the disc brake. straight chain drive sitting on the custom swing arm.

I don't hill climb with the hub motor unless its open smooth like a bitumen road.... where it can keep a good constant speed....

Anyway a few nipples have worn down so I can't true properly. I tried pliers but doesn't work once near tight.... I did a very rough off road test ride this afternoon and it looks like its ok for now although I can hear its untrue when full speed with the hub powering it down on bitumen.

When I first put this small wheel together I bought small aluminium washers from a hobby shop. I decided to test them, so they hold the head of the spoke outside the spoke hole.... The others are all head inside the hole. spokes were to fit the eyelets but the head is a bit small so anyway, the washers have mildly bent into the whole and who knows might just pop at some point. Or give a better angle or it looks like the spoke is touching the hub flange so might get a fraction of more support...

Anyway there is still something to be said about how beautifully a hub flies quietly at higher speeds on road and DD can put up with rough terrain with bursts of ridiculous torque which is one of the big fun factors in ebiking.
 
So after a year of lipo usage and being careful about balance charging only I finally chose a charger to bulk charge with.

I bought my bafang mid drive, then bought the programming cable and front chain ring and now bought the Satiator with programming/anderson plug dongle all from

http://www.emax-ebikes.com.au/

The guy running the show, is trustworthy and always backs up his product with info you need promtly with emails. I did business with him instead of many other overseas possibilities not only because I can trust local, but I want to spend my cash local for the economy here and not only that his prices are better than from overseas anyway. As a result it's a win win win situation buying through him.

As for the satiator.. I also want to support as I have many other products bought Grin products because they rock.

The satiator is unfortunately a bit slower and doesn't reach the voltage I wish it could... Maximum voltage it can charge to is 60v which is 4v @ 15s. At about 6 amps its not lightning. However, being a bulk charging virgin I feel safer with it than some Chinese charger. I also feel happier that I am not killing my batteries with high speed. And finally without a bms slower is better for the 3 slow battery medic balancers.

Currently I have two custom charging profiles. One is to the 3.9v which is my storage and basically a mid point for 0.05 difference in cells to catch up at. Then closer to when I ride I put it up to 60v custom profile. The battery should live a lot more lives at this low. And most my rides will be shorter but will give me a better feeling about riding. Everytime I charged it took so much hassle that when I rode I had to make it count for something and hated just going for a short spin somewhere unless it was a great ride. Now if it isn't such a hassle to charge I can just jump on my bike for shorter rides anytime.

I can still pull out my balance chargers to charge up to 4.1 as I have been recently. Or if I really want range I can disconnect the bafang battery connector and take them up to 4.2v and ride the hub motor until the voltage drops to 4.1 and then connect the bafang again. My bike has really just gotten so do whatever you want up to 15s.

For myself, here is the manual when I need to find it:
http://www.ebikes.ca/documents/Satiator_Manual_V09FW.pdf

EDIT 16/5
Have done a lot of shorter rides now. Most about 10km / 5AH so about a third of the battery. That keeps the battery in the 4v - 3.8v zone, so the cells stay pretty balanced, more balanced than the battery medics can tell. I am not totally happy with the battery medics. If I rotate the 3 I have I get variations on almost every cell. The worst balancer says the last cell is .05 out when the others don't. I have battery alarms that do similar different readings too. One of them says the last cell is like 4.25 which is out by 0.5!

My procedure is to first put them to balance down to 3.8 and then when they are nearing 4v I just put them all to discharge to 4v. I tend to rotate every few times the medics so one doesn't constantly do the same set. Over all they all sit around 4v at the end of charge.

Still, I can't explain how much more I love plugging in to charge.

EDIT 18/5
Bought a few of these auto balancers $15 each to try out if they are more accurate or at least to have a few different options.
26136-main.jpg


22/5 These balancers hardly do anything and the readings are opposite the battery medics. Now that I have 3 medics, 3 of these, 3 cell alarms I can conclude they all show differences of 0.05! This is a real annoyance because I would like to be able to keep them at much closer.

In conclusion, it is not worth bothering to use them other than checking they are within .05 :cry:

EDIT 23/5
Went for a 15km ride, sataitor is so cool telling me exactly how much AH was put in @ 8AH. It's like there's no real need to have a watt meter. Basically CA says over 6ah add in almost 1ah of regen roughly that's 7ah used on the hub meaning the mid drive used the remaining 1ah. As a result, you can conclude that either mid drive was barely used or it was and uses hardly any power. I would guess when the hub starts bogging down on a hill or I see full power being used around 3.5kw I use the mid drive which is between 3 to 5 times more efficient. Not only does it mean the motor gets a cool down before it gets critical but also waste less battery and don't need to carry as much battery too.

8ah 15km is right because I was using the full pack for 30km rides.

50% of the pack, the 50% in the middle. I charge to about 75%, and discharge to about 25% on the fuel gauge. Love the 3.85v area that lasts so long.

Now that charging has become so easy, there is no need for regen unless I am going for a longer ride. For short rides under 10km it is not worth the stress it puts on dropouts. I can hear the drive side squeak each time...

EDIT 27 / 5

I balanced charged over night, well got it to 60v and then left it balancing and it came out two packs at 3.99 another 3.97 so discharged the two for an hour and set back to balance and the result was the border between 3.98/3.99v that's the closest they'll ever get according to the medics. The CA says 59.8v however.

[youtube]9WDImdq8rIs[/youtube]
 
Cool video! I've been just enjoying riding and not making any videos lately. But will get back to making some soon.
 
Thanks guys,

I've been riding probably more than ever before because of bulk charging. My rides tend to be around the 20km mark instead of the 30km mark but if you look at the km per day I am doing more.

I keep playing ideas in my head sometimes I think what a waste such a granny gear is, as it would be better geared at pedalling speeds and I could double my torque at that, and then I go out for a mountain ride and go frock YEAH DOOD WELL DESIGNED as though I was another person.

The extra mid drive in granny gear is ABSOLUTE INDISPENSABLE asset if you try to ride my off road circuits. I even decided to take a part I have never done before today and only failed at one section because of traction. The motor was happy as, but the wheel just started spinning until the bike started sliding back down the trail.

I don't think I can ever go back to one motor and I find it almost hard to believe what anyone says about how there mid drive or non hub drive performs because they never ever post terrain remotely similar to the ranges that surround my suburb.

If anyone could post a ride of where they go for almost an hour up down 200+ metre ascents descents about 5 times I would believe it, but apart from the aft kit I don't believe any of them can.

The only hub is Rob's I have seen what I can do, but almost always there's a reason to stop or delay somewhere which if it didn't happen would be totally convinced on rewinding my own motor.

I love my bike now and sure ground clearance kind of sucks, but only traction is the limiting factor which I would like to solve.

I can only imagine a 16" 90/100 rear pit bike tyre could enhance my ride. Unfortunately that wouldn't fit my swing arm.

I'd like to design my own possibly.
 
John Bozi said:
Thanks guys,

I've been riding probably more than ever before because of bulk charging. My rides tend to be around the 20km mark instead of the 30km mark but if you look at the km per day I am doing more.

I keep playing ideas in my head sometimes I think what a waste such a granny gear is, as it would be better geared at pedalling speeds and I could double my torque at that, and then I go out for a mountain ride and go frock YEAH DOOD WELL DESIGNED as though I was another person.

The extra mid drive in granny gear is ABSOLUTE INDISPENSABLE asset if you try to ride my off road circuits. I even decided to take a part I have never done before today and only failed at one section because of traction. The motor was happy as, but the wheel just started spinning until the bike started sliding back down the trail.

I don't think I can ever go back to one motor and I find it almost hard to believe what anyone says about how there mid drive or non hub drive performs because they never ever post terrain remotely similar to the ranges that surround my suburb.

If anyone could post a ride of where they go for almost an hour up down 200+ metre ascents descents about 5 times I would believe it, but apart from the aft kit I don't believe any of them can.

The only hub is Rob's I have seen what I can do, but almost always there's a reason to stop or delay somewhere which if it didn't happen would be totally convinced on rewinding my own motor.

I love my bike now and sure ground clearance kind of sucks, but only traction is the limiting factor which I would like to solve.

I can only imagine a 16" 90/100 rear pit bike tyre could enhance my ride. Unfortunately that wouldn't fit my swing arm.

I'd like to design my own possibly.


Whats the widest you can fit into your swing arm?
 
If there is a sign to give up on the hub motor, then this is it.

2 hour walk home. At least the rear wheel freewheeled on one dropout/ torque arm!

I know axles can be fixed but this is the turning point.

Fucken sucks even more because I have one week holiday just starting..................................
 
John Bozi said:
If there is a sign to give up on the hub motor, then this is it.

2 hour walk home. At least the rear wheel freewheeled on one dropout/ torque arm!

I know axles can be fixed but this is the turning point.

Fucken sucks even more because I have one week holiday just starting..................................


Nah it is just a sign you need stronger custom build axles. :)
You put many miles on your bike, and from what I've seen on your video's it is always trail riding. I imagine your axle takes more of a beating then what people that do most street riding faces. And then there is the fact that you have the strain of 2 motors to one axle.

Press out the rest of the axle and get yourself larger side bearings and a phat axle. With room for even beefier wires.

Single powered BBs02 no fun 2 ride after riding that dual motor?
 
Thanks for the condolences... The death of the mighty goat looks set in stone.... what probably broke it was both how rough the terrain I was riding, torque and regen and a small wheel where the spokes let the axle do more of the hits I guess. Obviously getting a tougher axle is one avenue but that will have to be a side project and can wait.

Did lots of soul searching since the break..

1. I don't see a way forward with the style I was running. The weight in the rear is the main reason this would probably happen again if not the axle then more spokes eventually....

I think the best is to convert this bike to onroad only while I plan my future off road bike. If the bike becomes onroad the bafang will get retired too as its pretty useless on road.

Options to go on road: big power hub like mxus for high speed or go the safe option and freewheel efficient and pedal with something like 12t mac. I still have a lot of hills around here even with bitumen.

I quickly put the old backwheel on but the rear sprockets were all changed around with Newb, but have started to wobble and I don't have all the stuff to get the derailleur working so I ran it single speed around the block and almost burnt up the motor in about 5 minutes.

I hate gears!

The moto tensioner doesn't work without the huge rear sprocket....

so for now....
I am going back to 26" rear and hope to set up a single speed only for pedalling at the back. I am going to give up on regen too for this build as it was loosening my rear bolts faster.... I want to also stay with 26" as I have a few hookworms new and tubes in the cupboards..
I also want to keep using my shorter cranks as I find them much more comfortable to ride with especially in jeans. LOL You don't lift your knees as high....

geared hub or dd hub?
 
You might wanna look into the Revolt 120, fairly light weight and will work with single reduction. Could be mounted on the swing arm.
Perfect chain line too. If needed you could use internal gear hub in the back and and get some extra pull up those long steep hills you ride. IIRC the price of the Revolt is rather decent.
Oh and there are some rumors about a new Revolt 160 with even more power......might be worth looking into if it will come soon.
 
Come to think of the new astro drive from tangentdave. If you had a 3220 if the drive will take it you should be closer to the power you usually ride with. Yet have the gearing to do those steep climbs. It is not as cheap tough. But you do get the drive also. 80:1 reduction.

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=70098
 
Awesome thread John

Just had a quick read thru good on you for all the trail and error .

I guess someone has suggested 2wd gear Mac motors or something.

Or there is a Aussie company that are producing electric trail bikes that you may be able to put pedals on they climb well.

BTW you videos are great :D

Good work mate :mrgreen:
 
Thanks for the all the kind words and sharing of ideas to get me back to off road riding.

I have put my first hub motor, a 48v 1000w cheapo in 26" wheel 1.75 original tyre back on the bike and obviously top speed has increased to around 55kmh on flats and torque sucks and basically it can't make it up my parents drive way... it is very steep... for everything else it seems fine around the place although its winter now. It has a high pitch hollow sound compared to my clyte... I won't be modding it with holes and will see how long it lasts. The phase wires are the biggest concern as they don't look suited to pumping out almost 4kw through. also the bloody thing doesn't have rear disc brake mount although it does have a threaded part which would take an adapter if I could find one.
Also have unsuccesfully tried to get the original 42t front bafang with the connex chain to run to the 48t rear sprocket. I then tried to go back to what I was running 30t race face with 10sp chain but even that doesn't want to stay on the bike..... my only guess is I have damaged the chain links for now and they don't catch right.... to be honest apart from a few hills where the bafang would be cool to use it is pointless as I only do on road riding and the hub is alright for shorter rides with a few breaks.

I want to keep the bike as on road bike, and leave open what I will finally do with this hasa frame. I will see if I put the LR kit on it although I really want to have two bikes now. If it clearly suits it I might put it on but my dream for the LR DH maximum suspension.

Until I am sure that the LR will be a seperate build I will continue to post here about my thoughts about how to make it run. It isn't a simple plug and play motor so there will be lots more trail and error :twisted: :oops:

I don't even know if I want the small or big block. I think I want the big block but know it will require a lot of custom work on the rear wheel where as the small block might run through the standard rear cassette what do you guys think?

From an email from Mike:

My 'small' motor is twice the motor the Bafang is. My big block motor is about four times the motor. The small motor is often run at 2880 watts. The large motor has been run at 4200 watts. The small motor is cool to 40 amps, the large one to at least 60 amps. The limits of the big motor haven't been explored much. People usually run out of controller or battery. Either that or the bicycle breaks.

You have your bike geared with a 30t front and 48t rear?? I can't imagine that you would want more than a 23t rear cog on your bike. Most people who go single speed with the big motor use a 16t. They are looking for more top speed than you are, but they report the hill climbing ability as limited only by traction and keeping the front end down.

I have also started sifting through hundreds of pages of the LR kit threads for important info such as:

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=57720&start=2875#p1047425 person running this sprocket system to withstand the huge power.
l_1366104806741.jpg
 
Hey John

I have a spare Ekross Vector frame new if your are interested, I bought 4 in cheaper on freight I think it would be nice for hill climbing

check thread out

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=69605&start=75



Cheers Kiwi
 

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The dropouts can be change from 135 to 150mm with spacers you could go a geared hub or there is plenty of room to do a Mid drive monster I think that would be cool :mrgreen: the bike is long I find the front stays down quite well.

Cheers
 
Thanks for the offer mate maybe later when I work out my LR kit...

For now I am sucking up info
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=57720&start=900#p915504

Latest:

48V X 67-Kv = 3216-RPMs at the motor shaft (unloaded)

3216 / 33:1 reduction = 97-RPM at the crankset (unloaded)

xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Highest speeds, lowest gear and highest gear

I needed to do this sooner or later, so...might as well dive in now.

IF...you are using a common 7-speed freewheel at the rear wheel using a 14T-34T sprocket-set, and also using LR's stock recommended 32T/48T chainring-set. Top gear is 48T/14T, and lowest gear is 32T/34T (1:3.4 gear-up, and a 1.06:1 gear-down).

Approximate rear wheel RPMs when UN-loaded @ 48V: 329-RPM and 91-RPM

IF...you are using a 26-inch diameter tire, then:... http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/vi ... 28&t=16114

25-MPH_(40-kph)
7-MPH__(11-kph)

___________________________________________________
At 72V, the 50% more voltage results in approximately 50% more RPMs (still unloaded), so

37-MPH_(60-kph)
11-MPH__(17-kph)
 
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