AM dual motor = bafang middrive + rear hub motor

[pendragon8000]

The calipor is touching the motor? Normally most folks use some machine washers to make the disk have more space from the hub. I used 3 per bolt on mine.

The wheel is very hard to turn while holding the axle on both my hubs, don't worry about it.

You can order torque arms from ebikes.CA or make them. Get some thick 10mm steel and shape it with a grinder then thread ahole so it clamps on the axle. Safe as!

How do the connectors and wires etc look?

 

[John Bozi]

wires look good but until i can work out the hub not bothering testing jack.

If I order the torque arms might as well order his disc spacer, and looks like this bike's gona take a few months to ride if I go from canada.

Until we grind the washer for the cassette down to fit the other side properly exact measurements are hard for the brake discs, originally looking like 2.5mm but after more fiddling looking like it might be up to 4mm between hub and disc.

seriously she is looking totally fn tight. it's 5mm either way if she fits right. I should have never gone the 4065 - 3565 should have offered more play space.

 

[pendragon8000]

Yeah the disc spacer is a good idea. Also the 7 speed freewheel 32-11tooth might be a good idea do you get a good ratio in top gear for going 60kph. You might need the freewheel removal tool aswell. I got there one because I wasn't sure if a normal one would work. It has come in handy anyway.

 

[John Bozi]

I got 7 disc - please catch a plane up here now.

wholly. wondering if the bike shop can find a thin disc brake holder.

 

[pendragon8000]

Disk brake holder = caliper?
Yeah some mechanical one are thinner I think but they are shit. Don't worry with a spacer is should just fit. You only need 1mm
Keep your hydrolic brake and undo the bolts for now , you could tape it up out of the way, you'll have to re align the caliper with the disc spacer on there.. give us a bloody photo man!

 

[John Bozi]

photos when I get home. my fn bike terminolgy = caliper little fn thing that grips the disc. the thing that holds the caliper who knows. but yea when i have time and a computer at home will look up what it is.

ok, so looks like im looking for 6xhowever many washers for now.

is there any other solution? ive seen regen mentioned etc. oz i got front brakes good, just need something back to slow down a bit.

 

[pendragon8000]

Regen is OK but disc is best. Regen adds more heat to motor anyway.
I think once you start adjusting things you'll find a way.

 

[John Bozi]

 

[pendragon8000]

yeah man. with the hook worm just make sure its pumped up well over 40psi or you may damage that rim.
so

Crystalyte HS3565 Rear Hub motor laced to a 26"x32mm black

that motor looks wider than a hs/ht35xx did he send you a 40xx?
that gloss black looks pimp. you could take off the rear disk while you get it together. but on the other handdont ride without torque arms or its likely you will spin the axle and break the dropouts.
but it would be good to get the wireing all sorted while you wait for your last bits and pieces to come from ebikes.ca

seriously she is looking totally fn tight. it's 5mm either way if she fits right. I should have never gone the 4065 - 3565 should have offered more play space.

I see... oh well once sorted you'll be a boss!

 

[John Bozi]

are those universal torque arms ok? Dad said they look weak.

If they are ok I might buy them from here to speed things up. Canada will take ages. http://ebikeshop.com.au/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=7

John K says hes got 4mm spacers which should work for the clearance.

As for torque arms the link you sent I doubt will fit and I think one side will be easy enough to install the universal ones but not sure where theyd go on the caliper side I also have the wiring coming out on that side...

can i run on one?

Where do you suggest the controller go? it just barely fits in the triangle but I also have bottle mounts under the bottom tube. But I reckon will add to things to watch out for near the peddles and who knows how much dirt will kick up into the wiring.

 

[pendragon8000]

IMO you can't beat DIY clamping custom torque arms. Buy a cheap angle grinder for $30 and grind away some 10 or 12 mm off cut in a custom shape for your bike. Then drill and tap a hole for a bolt to clamp onto the axle. You could make it before an ordered one or two could be delivered. And about same price.
And yeah run 2 arms, heaps safer.

 

[John Bozi]

so we tested 4mm of spacers

problem is the heads of the screws will probably rip up the power chords coming out of the motor.

Even with 4mm the brake cable is only a mm off from getting smashed too.

 

[pendragon8000]

if i was you i would be tempted to give it a go. making sure the wires are tied to the chain-stay so they dont lean into the path of the bolt heads. another option might be using a bigger rear disk to get the caliper away from the bolts on the hub.
what do you think though?

 

[John Bozi]

of course I am keen to give it a go just dont think it was meant to turn out this way.

If the fn brake caliper cable stuff was a thinner design it would work. I like your idea of bigger rotors but how would the calipers mount up there?

im on facebook on endlessforum too... one guy said bb7s or something like that.

do you know any thin hydraulic brakes? (thin as in between rotor and hub?

on final note. Im probably going to take it in to the bike shop see if they have any solutions. as I predict it will have to be a different brake design and more $$$$$$$$$$$ for it and man hours.

or spend money on shipping to swap the 4065 for the 3565 which john agreed to do if it would solve my prob.

online i cant find specs or pictures of brakes from a side like my pics above and they dont give out the dimensions.

 

[pendragon8000]

My bike shop has 203mm brake rotor for $50 and caliper adaptors for $20. Or go online for 1/2 price eg chain reaction cycles

 

[John Bozi]

I researched your option and after going looking at the bike yes it would help but the body that holds pads still would be pretty close although it is not as close as the cable connection part.

we tinkered a bit more dropped a spacer again on the freewheel side so now I can't use the smallest cog, but I can just set the deralleur not to go there. we had to this so that the wheel would be more centred.

I think my wires were meant to be facing upwards and they were cool that way originally but now with the 4mm shift they are way too close to the rotor so they will have to be facing the opposite way and then be sharply bent back so that they bend away from the rotor as much as possible. I am praying they don't get damaged like this.

Problem with facing down and folding back is that it shortens the length, I pulled out the controller and it will be hard to get it further than near the seat post top tube area.

I gave the charger a go on the battery and it was charged quite quickly -well it was probably full before sent...

so yeah I plan to go ahead with this tight set up as is.

Now the next thing is the torque arms. My bike has these weird things sticking out on them on the tube coming down from the seat. It will be difficult for a universal style to fit, i think - will upload pics later.

Dad's got the picture now of what I was trying to explain to him about custom torque arms. He says we can weld the long steel bit to one of the machined steel thicker washer looking thing for one side and bolt to the caliper adapter screw points. but he says the chain side cant do much....

Its all killing me right now. trying to keep wife and new born baby happy and my dads going abroad next week and I just cant get time to build this bloody thing.

ah miss the days I was single living in pattaya

 

[pendragon8000]

Cool. If it works and you keep an eye on it then you should be OK. Wires facing back sucks though.

With the torque arms, those washers are mental to go on the inside of the drop outs I think. And that may solve some issues, yeah you'll have to stretch the frame onto the motor a few mm, it normal.
Anyway, I suggest at least 5mm thick arms, the washers are a bit thin although your dad might be able to beef them up. You must be keen as to get a ride on it.

 

[John Bozi]

I wish my dropout area wasnt so awkward shaped because Id buy the flat torque arm pendragon showed me, anyway I think I'll buy the non flat type - but that only suits the brake side right? what do i do the other side? get a universal torque arm i guess from ebikes ca if it will fit around the poking out bit too.

 

[John Bozi]

forget answering the question; just paid for one TorqArmRev4 $55 delivered from Sydney, for the chain side.
and paid for 1 bolt on Non Flat Dropout $38 delivered pictured above from the states.

Do you reckon I can go for a ride with just the universal one until my bolt on one arrives?

 

[pendragon8000]

you could IF you had a CA v3 set to controll the power, and restricited it to 1kw i would personally try that and think its ok, but having no real power restriction you are taking a gamble running with one thin torque arm. it should power at 2kw+ all the way up to about 55 kph and taper back a little at 65kph so thats allot of power pushing through the axle.

 

[John Bozi]

Will she be safe once I have both those on? further down the track I can make my own custom one. Just want to get this thing rolling.

Hey I am still playing with the idea of using regen braking. I can't find any info anywhere about how to set it up or how it will work.

It would seem the only real solution to the dangerous rotor clearance issues.

back brakes have always been just to slow down the bike for me, and if regen does this then that would be great. I know my controller has the regen on it...

any links how to set it up or what to buy for it?

 

[pendragon8000]

There should be a brake wire or plug on the controller. Connect it to a switch and put it under the brake lever.

With the torque arms I suggest 2 thin ones or one thick one.

 

[John Bozi]

plugged her in last night - gave her some throttle.

analyst says 53v - only gave her full throttle briefly but it didn't go over 60kmh - but i havent gone into the settings to see if this is set to a 26"...

it sounds hot! low grumble and then sounds like jet fighter super silent.

 

[pendragon8000]

Noice
I reacon you should take some measurements or photos and ask that guy about the disc caliper mount torque arms. I think it might fit looking at the photos again...?

 

[John Bozi]

Noice
I reacon you should take some measurements or photos and ask that guy about the disc caliper mount torque arms. I think it might fit looking at the photos again...?

Ask which guy?

I've already paid for the one bolt on torque arm and one universal one.

I'm waiting for the spacer John K sent me to put on because it will be stronger than these little 24 little washers on the rotor. put the torque arms on and Im gona let it rip.