AM dual motor = bafang middrive + rear hub motor

I would extend it. I reckon go to jaycar and get some wire and heat shrink. They have sizes more than enough. You might find some cool stuff while your there ;)
Otherwise order from hobby king. You can order different wire by the meter. Just have to wait for delivery.
 
Had an absolute blast of riding over the weekend, with perfect weather. Even did shuttle drop offs up the mountain with a real mountain bike (no ebike). So much fun to do single track again.

The only way to make road riding as much fun is to go faster and lean into corners more... I think the higher speed I have now can be seen in videos.

[youtube]QxsWWi_Nwgw[/youtube]

I am still calibrating my ride - I'm up to about 1.4ohms now.

I really need a rear view mirror but I want to avoid anymore motorbike looking stuff. I am still not sold on needing my CA. I think it is good to have for a few rides to get distances worked out. But after that I think I could live the amp metre Newb lent me. the CA is yet another destealthizer.
 
I cained the motor hard all the way to St Lucia, as I knew I had enough battery (with ca3) 8) first time I felt the hub get so hot. Not too hot to touch - but for sure it was hot.

Up to 1.6 ohms now on the calibration.

Had a huge day of building with Newbie.

1. Removed front shifters and lockout lever.
2. Swapped the 10 speed rear derailler for a 7 speed.
3. Added an extra washer again so that I can get the smallest cog to work again.
4. tightened the spokes.
5. We trialled a few things too. tried turning the rear shock upside down or back to front. I wasn't sold on the idea... it was to make more space in the triangle but dont feel safe about clearance.
6. Tried his lipo on my bike - was nice but I wish I had more time to get a better feel.

Results: I really noticed better ability to peddle again wih the smallest cog. The final solution was to stick a really big screw in the front cage adjusting screw holes to permanently aline the chain because it wanted to fall off without the cage. It works well, but Im not toally satisfied with this as I believe the chainring seems to be twisting the chainline and so is the outer most rear cog. Not perfect efficiency but at least I have more rear gears to use if needed.

future jobs: install the front 7 speed shifter/possibly install the 52t 4 bolt chainring and work out how to connect the white wire to thermal wire. Starting to toy with the idea of LIpos.

All I can say is that Newb is the go to bicycle man or ebike man in Brisbane. He's great to customise anything.
 
Hi John

I've been following your thread for a while now ( including your table tennis videos) - top stuff :))

A question about the 4065 vs 3565 -

I am tossing up between the 3565 and the 4065. According to the spects, these do 65kms/hr at 48v.
Is that right?

I believe the difference between the two is the max power - 3kW vs 2kW
If that is so, I would go for the 3565 as it is thinner than the 4065 ( 35 mm vs 40 mm)

I am mainly interested in speed not torque.
Any suggestion appreciated

Also, where did you buy youyr 4065 and how much including delivery? I am in Sydney

thanks, Newman
 
newman64 said:
Hi John

I've been following your thread for a while now ( including your table tennis videos) - top stuff :))

A question about the 4065 vs 3565 -

I am tossing up between the 3565 and the 4065. According to the spects, these do 65kms/hr at 48v.
Is that right?

I believe the difference between the two is the max power - 3kW vs 2kW
If that is so, I would go for the 3565 as it is thinner than the 4065 ( 35 mm vs 40 mm)

I am mainly interested in speed not torque.
Any suggestion appreciated

Also, where did you buy youyr 4065 and how much including delivery? I am in Sydney

thanks, Newman
Click to expand...

Hey mate, glad u like the vids...

Not sure there, I am new to electricity but I guess you will need 72volts to get to 65kmh, I would have thought the fatter the motor the more it can handle aswell. To keep things simple - I have no idea why it is advertised as doing 65@48v on the emtb website because I have that and I did think I was going to get to 65 with 48v at 40-60amps - if all is calibrated properly now, I am somewhere between 2.5-2.7kw peaking at about 50kmh.

I am sure it can do much more than 65kmh - you just gona have to get a lot more volts pumping through it than I have.

I suggest you ask John K for a quote and any questions directly. I have had a million back and forth emails with him - lots of pre and post questions.... http://emtb.com.au/
 
I did first only ever test to see what happens to my battery and power at total discharge... 40v cut off at 13AHs so will up the shunt value again. but now I know another way to see when I am near the end I knew 42 volts but wanted to push it to the limit...

20km range with only peddling for big hills.

My question is if I got a 44v lipo pack which is the safe combination of volts - will the controller cutout again at 40v and if so then thats a pretty tiny spectrum. As my headway pack works around 52-48v.

Here is my night rider.

935890_10151863317139845_867566672_n.jpg
 
Haven't given up on it, just got peeved the star nuts were much smaller and also my head tube is tapered. so in no mans land to continue for a way to secure the bottom of the case...

You could call it stalled for now.

I am up 1.8ohms now 2500watts seems very realistic. Went over to watch my mate aussie and newb building their harnesses for their 4 x 6s 5ah zippies.

aussie soldered on a plug for the thermo wire but the reading is weird. seemed to get colder the more I rode even on super hard up hills.
tomorrow I am ready to do a final wire tidy and tuck of everything as I have the 7 twist shift ready to put on, and thermo done, so for now no more wiring jobs so can really tidy it all up.

still playing around with the lipo idea. They both are "pushing" me to get 15ah pack... which would be good for all of us to have the same range. but for me for now I am pretty happy with 10ah or still even a super light 5ah pack to go to the shops or to the man cave which I tend use 4ah max. this is 90% of my rides.

mmmmm

tinking tinking
 
From John K - I searched up some emails to rediscover:

The thermistor in the motor is a KTY81-210
Click to expand...

Now what the hell do I do?

Meanwhile in the batcave. I am half way with rewiring and tidying up all the wires. Must get to Newbs to solder the end of the derailler cable as I frocked up once after having everything finished and then realising I had to put the cable on the left side so pulled everything off again but cable started fraying...

Handle bars are looking so much cleaner too.
 
http://www.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/pdf/17846/PHILIPS/KTY81-210.html

DESCRIPTION
The temperature sensors in the KTY81-2 series have a
positive temperature coefficient of resistance and are
suitable for use in measurement and control system
Click to expand...
as you said the temperature reading was going down as you rode more, its the wrong type of thermistor.

the ca requires a NTC(negative thermal co-eficient)
the kty81-210 is a PTC
bugga!
photo of tidy wires?
 
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=38830&start=25#p780000 thanks to mvly.

Linear type
1.19V for 0 degree
125 deg/V for T Scale
90 for Thrash Temp.

this appears to work will go for a big ride tonight...

As for my 7 speed shifters, derailleur and cable - looks like a frocked it up. the crimp ending fell of and the cable is fraying and i cant change gears!!!! dam it was working with the first configuration until I saw cable length issues because it was on the other side of the top tube....

ahhhhhh

at least temp is working.... i think.

EDIT: just got this from Justin:

Hey John, that's an interesting one since the CA3 is designed for NTC thermistors not PTC silicone devices. But you should be able to make it work reasonable well using the "linear" temp sensor option. Pull-up on the CA3 is 5kOhm, your devices is 2kOhm at room temp, so would sit at 5V*2/7 = 1.42V at 25oC. At 100 oC it's 1.696 times this, or 3.39K, resulting in a voltage of 2.02V. So you would have a slope of (75/(2.02-1.42) = 125 oC/Vlt. Your 0 degree voltage would be about 1.22V.
Click to expand...

Note: I will go for spin soon to tell you if the initial set up seems correct and then try to decifer how to set up Justin's if not.
 
izeman, no I don't have any other measuring device. I will be buying a turnigy watt meter soon.

Yesterday we went for a big mountain climb- motor hit 90 degrees after about 8 ahs of mostly climbing and then it automatically cut power on me.

good to see it worked! :lol: so I touched the hub with my hand and it was hot but not burning hand hot.
 
izeman said:
you dont need an amp/multimeter but a powersupply of which you know the exact output! no icharger or similar you can borrow from someone in rc business?
Click to expand...
John are you still trying to work out your shunt value? if thats what your trying to do with these recent posts, i sugest getting a multi meter, buy one for $20 from jaycar etc and test the resistance of the shunt pins on the ca direct plug.

hows the bike going anyway? making progress on the battery mount situation i hope. i noticed newb put up a photo on his cromotor thread of a nice FS looking bike with front mount battery.
from this post http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=48647&hilit=cromotor&start=25#p782450
P1030357_zpsf6d545a7.jpg
 
On holidays from work for 2 weeks, had heaps of long rides to local areas I haven't explored. First two discovered some awesome firetrails which criss cross walking paths around an unused dam. Spectacular views and super tracks. Can't wait to try to go there off peak...

Another just tonight rode across town to play table tennis, guys there pretty cool let me charge up while played.

Because I have been punishing the bike on some real steep stuff I am hitting the 90 degree mark quite fast. Really thank god for the thermo reading because tonight I put my hand on the hub and it felt cold but after waiting a minute went to hot. Cool air is misleading. I can't imagine how fast it would heat up if I were pumping twice the power through it.
 
John Bozi said:
Awesome ride with Newb today around the dam - will do it faster next time. first time was exploring and conserving amps.

Next time wow there are so many awesome features to rip up on the trail...

No people!
Click to expand...
video please.
Sounds good man :)
 
Only did a little vid which I will hand over to Newb first, was funny we stopped in the middle of about a 20 degree grade, bad move as it is hard for me to start from that angle as my bike is slightly too tall for me. So I parked my bike for a rest against this tree with my FF helmet on the bike as you can see in this picutre.

1240665_10151905296139845_1826929710_n.jpg


After the breather (I'd had a few beers prior to leaving for the ride) I grabbed my bike but not the helmet, and just watched the helmet roll down and around the hill out of sight! I could have put my bike back and tried to run but I just stood there laughing my head off.

Newb rode back down to get it and I think I only recorded him coming back up with it.

Gopro though skews angles too much with its lens so I doubt the recording will show steepness.

Anyhow I plan to this ride today starting at the other end, I'm so stoked as it's probably the closest new entry point that I have discovered to off road riding and nobody at all is around. Yee ha.

Battery on the front would be great for this kind of stuff as when you are going up steep relatively slowly the front is bouncing around and dam hard to steer.
 
John Bozi said:
I can't imagine how fast it would heat up if I were pumping twice the power through it.
Click to expand...

I've trashed 1 HS4065 about 4 times, and a new HS4065 one more time before giving up on them at 72v / 18fet. 1 snapped axle and 4 sets of halls. Just burn out in no time at all.
Which is nonsensical thinking that more current would be needed at a lower voltage, thus more heat. I'm no boffin so I'll just say, got very hot very quickly :lol:

Same setup with a cromotor on the back has been taking the same sh!t I would dish out to my old 5304 and it seems to be asking for more

Hope to catch up with you some time now that I reckon I have a stable ride ;)
 
devorion said:
John Bozi said:
I can't imagine how fast it would heat up if I were pumping twice the power through it.
Click to expand...

I've trashed 1 HS4065 about 4 times, and a new HS4065 one more time before giving up on them at 72v / 18fet. 1 snapped axle and 4 sets of halls. Just burn out in no time at all.
Which is nonsensical thinking that more current would be needed at a lower voltage, thus more heat. I'm no boffin so I'll just say, got very hot very quickly :lol:

Same setup with a cromotor on the back has been taking the same sh!t I would dish out to my old 5304 and it seems to be asking for more

Hope to catch up with you some time now that I reckon I have a stable ride ;)
Click to expand...
I bought the 4065 knowing it is a 2Kw motor, did you?

Did you use the thermo wire when you trashed it? For me it seems so far as a pretty dam simple solution or should I say precaution of how to avoid frocking you motor. Use it or vent it or oil bath it, or keep it near what it was designed for. I am using if my CA is finally calibrated never over about 2300w and then the CA limits it over 90 and I kept frocking with it today and she went up to near 100 degree but decided stop there, not worth wasting money over.

The cro seems to handle everything, and put the emphasis on seems. I have no data about it.

Here have some bike porn might turn you on of my ride today.

[youtube]2lnpVu_Xhrg[/youtube]
 
John Bozi said:
I bought the 4065 knowing it is a 2Kw motor, did you?
Click to expand...
to be very honest, I didn't even know about the model until it was on it's way :) Called up John K in a bit of a huff saying I needed a motor real quick, something like my x5304 (which had just busted it's axle).
He suggested the HS4065 would be similar and could get one out that afternoon. 'tis when my Saga began.

Either way, just to make it clear - Nothing against John K / Stealth, they are awesome blokes who have always been happy to help.

my CA reports I'm pushing about 5.5Kw through the cromotor (72volt * 75A) peaking at 112A, so you can imagine how short lived the 4065 was for me :)
Nothing wrong with the motor, just not right for my setup.

your bike porn should be labelled NSFW ;) I had to take it somewhere private and people commented I looked a little post coital afterwards. :D
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

P
Feedback Sought on Planned Build - Rear Hub Stealth Commuter
Replies
2
Views
461
E-HP
E-HP
P
Rear Hub Motor Advice
Replies
2
Views
1,017
1boris
1
E-HP
    • Like
DIY Newb FAQ?
2
Replies
34
Views
11,067
E-HP
E-HP
M
142x12mm Rear Direct Drive Hub Motor options?
Replies
2
Views
1,805
MadRhino
MadRhino
rberger
My Experience Converting an ICE Trike to a DD Hub Pedalec
Replies
5
Views
3,465
chvidgov.bc.ca
C
Back
Top