amature needed for unite my1016z3 motor

[fabieville]

I am looking a replacement for the amature that comes in my unite my1016z3 24v 350watt motor. The commutator bars that comes on the amature have all rub down to the point that the brushes cant make contact with them so hence the motor is not working now. Where on the internet I can find just the amature to buy to replaced the worn one that I have or is there another motor with a replacement amature that can use that is much cheaper than buying back another unite my1016z3 motor?

 

[DrkAngel]

New motor @ $53 sounds like the best solution.

Alternative being a shim under the brush block to shift the communicator contact point?

 

[amberwolf]

The commutator bars that comes on the amature have all rub down to the point that the brushes cant make contact with them so hence the motor is not working now.?

Have you replaced the brushes? Those usually wear out a long time before the commutator would be able to wear so far that there's no surface left to contact.

If the motor runs hot, and the brushes run hot, it's also possible for the springs that push the brushes onto the commutator to lose their springiness, causing the same result you see.

 

[fabieville]

the commutator bars rub down slightly. The springs loosen tension, heat damage them. Where can I get springs to buy and also shims to put inside of the brush blocks?

 

[DrkAngel]

New brushes and brush assembly - eZip-iZip-Currie parts-n-such
Upgraded springs might require actual measure and search.

 

[Drunkskunk]

Just try searching for amatures with Google safe search off. You'll get much better results.

<IMG ALT=big_busted_teen_amaturer_pumps_bycycle>CENSORED</IMG>

Your armature's commutator isn't likely to wear down so much that the brushes can't make contact in your grand children's life time. The brushes, however, are a wear part and could be worn out in a few short months if you ride often and hard.

While you can kill the springs with heat, they need to get over 425°F for the cheapest alloys to lose their temper (probably more like >700°F for springs). Better springs will take more heat, but your motor's magnets would have failed before you get that hot.

Just replace the brushes.

While you're in there, take the time to clean the armature's commutator. Detergents could harm the lacquer on the armature windings, so use clean water and a mild acid, like lemon juice, or my favorite, Arby's sauce, to clean up the contact points of the armature. Just wipe an extra thick coat of Arby's sauce on the commutator bars, wait 10 minutes, then rinse it off to reveal nice shiny bare metal.

 

[gogo]

…
While you can kill the springs with heat, they need to get over 425°F for the cheapest alloys to lose their temper (probably more like >700°F for springs). Better springs will take more heat, but your motor's magnets would have failed before you get that hot.

Just replace the brushes.

While you're in there, take the time to clean the armature's commutator. Detergents could harm the lacquer on the armature windings, so use clean water and a mild acid, like lemon juice, or my favorite, Arby's sauce, to clean up the contact points of the armature. Just wipe an extra thick coat of Arby's sauce on the commutator bars, wait 10 minutes, then rinse it off to reveal nice shiny bare metal.

Shiny clean commutators aren't prime condition, they should have a 'use-caused' surface.

The Helwig Commutator Condition Guide
Ideal Commutator Condition:
When a machine runs well, the patina/film on a commutator will be even, slightly shiny, and the color is coppery brown to dark brown.

My craptastic electric lawn edger has such a poor thermal design and poor quality springs that its hard not to toast the springs everytime I use it. I ended up buying a couple dozen brush/spring sets from Hong Kong just for the springs because it was the most inexpensive way to get them.

 

[Drunkskunk]

Shiny clean commutators aren't prime condition, they should have a 'use-caused' surface.

I think you're confusing "shiny and clean" for "Smooth and polished". Stripping the corrosion and carbon build up off the commutator with a mild acid like food condiments won't harm the "use-caused" surfacing. It will make to motor run better and cooler.

My craptastic electric lawn edger has such a poor thermal design and poor quality springs that its hard not to toast the springs everytime I use it. I ended up buying a couple dozen brush/spring sets from Hong Kong just for the springs because it was the most inexpensive way to get them.

That's a seriously craptastic design. I don't think that's likely a problem the MY1016 would have.

 

[DrkAngel]

Armature ... rather than amature.

Try ensuring free movement of brushes, clean communicator with stiff brush.
Blow out the windings ... while accessible. (be prepared for massive cloud of black soot!)
Replacing with (new) full length brushes is the cheapest fix.
Whole new motor at $51\delivered is likely cheaper than any good armature you'll find.