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Any idea what can be done with this controller?

Mkerr

10 µW
Joined
Aug 14, 2016
Messages
6
Apologies if asking obviously stupid questions.

I've recently popped open a generic chinese ebike kit with a hope that I might be able to tweak some settings.
If not, that I'd be able to replace the controller +/- display and salvage the battery.

It's the EZ Rider kit, that comes with the battery and controller in a hard case.

The PAS levels seem to change the cut off speed, and deliver too much power for comfortable cycling. The power seems to increase with cadence. Probably a good thing when starting from stationary, though very annoying when changing gears as you speed up. There's power when you don't need it, and none when you want it.

I was wanting something that limits power based on PAS level, and ramps down as the cadence increases. Such that there's a bit more power delivered when starting from stationary, and when downshifting gears.

Was wondering if I could change the display, or if I'd need to just get a new controller and display.

The current display looks like this one... M15 Ebike Centre Control Panel - To7motor

Any ideas?

Many thanks!
 

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That's a common complaint for cadence sensor controllers. Too much power in PAS 1 and 2. Bike accelerates too fast. Can't ride slow, so you have to get used to a faster pace. That works unless riding with a slower partner or group.,

I don't think any of the 30 dollar controllers use cadence speed to modulate power delivery. In my opinion, there are controllers with a better pedal assist feel. You do have to replace controller and display as a pair. Different brands of display and controller won't work together, I have found that the brainpower controllers (S866 display) and brands that use the S900 and SW900 display didn't give the the pedal assist feel I get with KT controllers. They sit unused/unwanted in my parts box. Others may disagree, or they have found a setting combo that works.

On a KT controller, each PAS level has a certain percentage of the rated controller current allocated to it, The pedals are just an on/off switch that tells the controller to apply that current. For a given bike then, PAS 1 might be about 100 watts, and you will go as fast as whatever 100 watts will do for your weight, tires, wind, etc. If you pedal harder, you still only get 100 watts from the motor, but you can go faster, That sort of approximates torque sensing. Many of the KT displays also allow some adjustment of that current level, enough so one can have the same wattage from a 36V or 48V battery,.

I have ridden a bike where assist is based on speed. As you approach the speed limit associated with that PAS level, it decreases assist and eventually stops. That is totally unnatural, to start with boost and have it fade to nothing.
 
Awesome.
Thanks heaps for the reply.
Sounds like i'm going need to research commonly recommended KT / display pairings for my needs.

Only other thought I had was if I could drop the current limit from 14 down a bit, and leave things on PAS3.
Given that I'd be satisfied with just a bit of assist at all speeds up to max.
I'm too stupid to know if this would cause any issues / harm to either the battery or motor.

Thanks again!
 
Sadly I can't set those.
Looks possible with the manual linked, but the display I have won't let me access those options.
 
I don't think any of the 30 dollar controllers use cadence speed to modulate power delivery. In my opinion, there are controllers with a better pedal assist feel.
Reporting back. Writing this mostly for people that are considering this kit.

I think this does have some cadence speed sensing.
II took it for a long ride yesterday.

I took it down some gentle declines to test this. At a constantish speed and whilst ghost wheeling I could see gradual increase in power output (both audible and on the display) as cadence increased. Maintaining this same speed, and shifting to 2nd gear = less power output.

This is probably ok for going up hills, but very annoying for normal riding.

Overall, it's really frustrating to ride
As a commuting only kit, it's passable. If you're ok with it smashing you up to your set speed limit (at the expense of range) then it's fine.

Setting the PAS to anything less than max is likely going to be just a frustration.

Further stuff:
- some settings don't seem to change anything
- reducing max power output does nothing - default is set to 1000w
- changing to 100w did nothing
 
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