Automotive radiator fan motors- Acceptable ebike motors?

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So the fuse ratings on these things seem to go from 40amp to 80amp depending. And they run at 12v of course. I'm new at this, but since overvolting 24v motors to 36 or 48 is possible I figured the same is true for these 12v motors. Taking in to account the 80a fuse value, thats gotta be at least a 400 watt motor, right? These motors are readily available in salvage yards for VERY cheap, so I thought I'd ask here.
 
vanilla ice said:
So the fuse ratings on these things seem to go from 40amp to 80amp depending. And they run at 12v of course. I'm new at this, but since overvolting 24v motors to 36 or 48 is possible I figured the same is true for these 12v motors. Taking in to account the 80a fuse value, thats gotta be at least a 400 watt motor, right? These motors are readily available in salvage yards for VERY cheap, so I thought I'd ask here.

Fan motors are usually not suitable for ebikes because they don't have high torque at low rpm.
 
Even the hi flow aftermarket fans I install typically only draw about 10 amps, and as already mentioned the powerband is backwards from what you'd want on an EV motor.

At 48v though (if it lives) a rad fan might be able to propel your bike like an airplane :lol:
 
These can be had for $5 so I was thinking front wheel friction drive assist for the rear motor. Well I'm glad I asked before wasting my time.
 
For a friction drive with small roller they might work, but an R/C motor would probably be a better choice.
 
Geebee said:
Alot of them have bushed bearings not ball races, with the side force bearing life may be minimalistic.

The bushing life should be longer than anyone would actually want to use a setup like that. Once a beginner finds out how convenient it is to have power assist, they'll be on to bigger and better things pretty quickly.
 
The original Zappy used a fan motor. I wasn't the best, but it worked.
Most of them are permanent magnet motors, so I don't see why they wouldn't work as bike motors.

There's a limit to how much you can overvolt one without melting it. Rewinding a motor for a higher voltage is not a lot of fun. You could possibly get two identical motors and run them in series.

Hey, if the price is right.......
 
I was thinking that. Put two motors on a common knurled aluminum roller over the front tire, one left one right. Even at 100 or 200 watts each, thats gotta be worth ten bucks to investigate.
 
http://ufixitautoparts.com/Items/m4868%20evr?sck=3177591

:wink:

Well these are new, but used could be cheaper. 60 in stock now..
 
Neh, life is short. I'd stick to the known-goods.

Unknown rating, 1/4" shaft, 12V... :?
 
From what I read before choosing a hubmotor, friction drives usually perform poorly in wet weather, are notorious for requiring constant tinkering, wear out tires faster, and are less efficient than other means of connecting motor to rubber. With gears, chains, hubs and such widely available and comparatively affordable, I see no compelling benefit to a friction drive. Why bother?
 
Right, plus the motor may be super inefficient right off the bat. No worries, I'm not planning on ordering. But if you need brake pads for a car... well don't see 90% off too often, my family is set for life. :roll:
 
Now I want to go to the auto salvage yard to see if I can find one with the fan blades still on it. Put it on a post and see if it generates any juice. :idea: It may not be pretty but I don't live in the burbs.

A sure way to make the wind quit blowing. :?
 
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