Mattbastard
New-ish here
I recently bought a used Stealth Fighter (minus the battery) with a BAC8000 and QS273, and a UKC1 display. Honestly I bought the thing for the suspension and the hub motor, everything else was icing on the cake. I was told the whole system is brand new, but he kept the battery due to trust issues in how it was built. No issues from me, I was building a battery anyway.
I hooked my battery up to the controller, turned the key on, and absolutely nothing happened. Apparently the key just turned on power to the UKC1. Holding down the power button got things running. More troubleshooting led to a bad throttle and a completely incorrect wiring harness. There were pins on the controller harness that had no business having a wire on them, and in some places nothing where a pin needed to be. I took the whole Molex connector apart and put pins exactly where they needed to be.
Kilowatt, and Derek himself, have been a Godsend in this debacle. The BAC8000 has Bluetooth built-in, so just download the app. Make sure the controller is powered up before you use the app. For some reason the app won't connect to the controller if the app is running before you turn the controller on.
After that, LOTS of trial and error, but mostly me getting the hang of everything. I ended up eliminating as much unnecessary crap as I could to have more control over setup. At the end, the only things connected to the controls harness of the BAC8000 was the throttle and the 6-wire motor harness with the hall sensors and thermistor. The key sends 72VDC directly to pin 9. No display, no brake inputs, nothing. Just the throttle.
Using Kilowatt, disable any external display and use Kilowatt as the display. Also, doing a motor calibration showed the best success using the Surron motor. The QS273 was in the motors list, so I tried calibration with the Generic Hall Sensor motor and it never worked. The motor just kept acting herky jerky. Recalibrating with the Surron motor now I can get the motor spinning perfectly based on throttle input.
Speaking of the throttle, at first nothing happened. If the speed or power level on the dashboard is on "N", that's why. In my case, the input in the code of the controller was set to "Serial" and I couldn't select "Throttle Only" no matter how many times I calibrated it. The whole list of throttle inputs was greyed out. Derek was very responsive and we worked thru it. Now I can see the throttle voltage input go up as well as the percentage (and the motor also spins now).
Now that I know the system is functional I'll be tearing the bike apart to build a custom frame. I also need to finish the battery. Good times.
I hooked my battery up to the controller, turned the key on, and absolutely nothing happened. Apparently the key just turned on power to the UKC1. Holding down the power button got things running. More troubleshooting led to a bad throttle and a completely incorrect wiring harness. There were pins on the controller harness that had no business having a wire on them, and in some places nothing where a pin needed to be. I took the whole Molex connector apart and put pins exactly where they needed to be.
Kilowatt, and Derek himself, have been a Godsend in this debacle. The BAC8000 has Bluetooth built-in, so just download the app. Make sure the controller is powered up before you use the app. For some reason the app won't connect to the controller if the app is running before you turn the controller on.
After that, LOTS of trial and error, but mostly me getting the hang of everything. I ended up eliminating as much unnecessary crap as I could to have more control over setup. At the end, the only things connected to the controls harness of the BAC8000 was the throttle and the 6-wire motor harness with the hall sensors and thermistor. The key sends 72VDC directly to pin 9. No display, no brake inputs, nothing. Just the throttle.
Using Kilowatt, disable any external display and use Kilowatt as the display. Also, doing a motor calibration showed the best success using the Surron motor. The QS273 was in the motors list, so I tried calibration with the Generic Hall Sensor motor and it never worked. The motor just kept acting herky jerky. Recalibrating with the Surron motor now I can get the motor spinning perfectly based on throttle input.
Speaking of the throttle, at first nothing happened. If the speed or power level on the dashboard is on "N", that's why. In my case, the input in the code of the controller was set to "Serial" and I couldn't select "Throttle Only" no matter how many times I calibrated it. The whole list of throttle inputs was greyed out. Derek was very responsive and we worked thru it. Now I can see the throttle voltage input go up as well as the percentage (and the motor also spins now).
Now that I know the system is functional I'll be tearing the bike apart to build a custom frame. I also need to finish the battery. Good times.
