Bafang 750w + Which battery?

dyana_by

10 mW
Joined
Nov 19, 2013
Messages
28
I want to buy a Bafang 750w, but I don't know so much about battery.

The battery should last for 10 km with 800 meters in altitude. person+bike=100kg. I would like to assist for a 20%-30%.

I found these battery that fit my bike frame.

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/free-shipping-to-Netherlands-48V-10AH-electric-bike-water-bottle-battery-BMS-charger/1314417940.html
http://www.bmsbattery.com/48v/496-48v-10ah-lithium-ion-electric-bicycle-battery-pack.html
http://www.bmsbattery.com/48v/248-48v-10ah-lithium-ion-electric-bicycle-battery-pack.html


Now I have to decide which is the best.

Can you suggest other batteries?

Thanks
Diana
 
The bottle battery has only 10 amp max continuous discharge current, so it is only good up to 500 watts. So, forget that one. THe other two are rated at 15 amps continuous which should be just enough for your project. The 15 amp-hour battery will give you more distance and weights only slightly more. I can't say whether the quality of these batteries is any good though.
 
dyana_by said:
Can you suggest other batteries?

Costs a bit more, but build quality is excellent and vendor is very reliable:
http://em3ev.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=35&product_id=128
 
Hi,

I read about EM3ev and are quality batteries. I think I'll buy one.

If my motor is 48v I have to buy the battery with the same Volts (EM3ev is 50v)? Sorry for the silly question :oops: .

How can I know which charger to buy?

I'm from Italy
 
Buy the charger from the same store as the battery. The generic "no name" bottle batteries use "B"-grade cells and they do not last many years, and they do not provide the full advertised Amp-hours of range (autonomie?).

The cell_man batteries from em3ev.com cost more, but they are reliable. The small $510 12-Ah triangle pack with high-quality Panasonic 22P cells easily provides frequent 30A peaks and 20A continuous.

If I was selling street-legal E-bikes in a place with steep hills, and I did not want complaints from my customers, this is the combination I would sell: BBS02 / 750W kit with em3ev.com 50V 12-Ah triangle pack.

Of course, if you have more budget, and you want more miles/kilometers of range/autonomie, you can get the larger 18-Ah pack.
 
Motor size doesn't matter. You need to match the battery to the max amp draw of the controller.
 
You want a minimum of 48v lithium ion or polymer which is 15AH or better and rated at 25A continuous with 40A peaks - really you only need 30A peaks but those indicate cheaper cells.

Ideally you would want 2 x 48v nominal lithium pack of 13A ( but not the all cell kind, they don't support the required draw under load) which in parallel would give you 26A - the current limit on all 750w bafang bottom bracket drives yet that I have seen and tested.

If you want to push the envelope and have fun...

I would suggest between 15 and 25AH of 15s Lithium Polymer (55.5v nominal as 3 x 5S each 5AH strand) - that will be safe for the controller, the packs can handle 20/30C minimum (even a 5AH pack can handle 100A continuous discharge and peaks of 150A, a 15AH handles 300A continuous) - done with a fair BMS and bulk charger the weight would be minimal compared to most technology and the power unending. Did I mention the better Lipo systems can charge at 5C... Imagine recharging in 1 hour or less with 20AH capacity and if ridden correctly and limited to < 30, that should spell 35-40 miles range between charges

Hope this helps !

-Mike
 
Spinning magnets,

Thank you for the vote of confidence. To convey as not to over claim my "expertise" with the bafang BBS-0X units, I have previously spent a month bench only testing a 350w 48v BBS01 (the original) and purchased a 750w BBS02 for the same purpose.

Since I already had bench data, I thought it would be a good idea to implement field testing on the newly received 750w Bafang (unmodified in any way, software or hardware) and collect stock data.

I had another job to perform, that of determining the cause of a problem which one of my vendor clients ran into with a customer - I had just finished testing their 48v 13AH battery (one they ordered for the test so I can tell you it was All Cell) with their kit and determined sporatic cutout was not due to the battery.

Since I had a true 48v pack on hand (I never do) and it was rated 25A continuous, I decided to do some testing using it, that lasted about 45-50 miles and indicated speed range between 20 mph and 26 mph as the battery decay. Even still, I was quite impressed with the unit so I decided to build a 13S lipo which is also rated as 48.1v nominal and mimics the All Cell chemistry voltage ranges which meant it should have been a nice even fight.

The pack I constructed was lesser than the All Cell pack (or they would have you believe) at 13S Lithium Polymer, 2 Parallel Strands (made of 4 x 5S and 2 x 3S) for a total of just 10AH and these were even my older 20/30C packs which already have 100 cycles minimum on them.

Voltage sag under 25A load on the Lithium Ion was close to 1.25v, on the Lithium Polymer sag was .25v at worse going up a 1 mile long hill / trail, pulling 26A the entire time (on purpose) the drop never exceed .5v.

In summary, I don't want to scare you or even tell you that you need to build your own pack but you do need to match your intended (or more aptly your actual) riding style, range requirement, recharge requirement and the one most don't think of battery longevity. Even if you want stability of a prebuilt battery there are options which won't break your bank and you can always build a single, low cost strand of other batteries to test and play with at a fraction of the cost of an entire exotic pack.

Further let me tell you, the 750 does have (all bafang crank drives at this point, imho) its drawbacks, I won't enumerate them here because truth is I am working on an install, calibration, use, tricks and work around methods for the short comings and with all that (I'm pickey as hell) I LOVE my bafang mid drive, no it's not going to compete with my dual stage Astro 3220 powered Hard Rock Pro for downright terrifying accelleration, top speed or power in general but I must say that properly calibrated (derauiler, brakes, chainline, shifter, etc) the stock unit even with it's small issues is the best unit or method of power delivery I have tried yet (and I've tried them all, trust me - except I never tried the Acme Rocket strapped to my back, hmmm)... I wouldn't trade it for anything less than: An identically designed (size, shape, weight, etc - better thermal dissipation and power handling excepted) drive system which used more efficient gears of higher strength and powered internally using a motor of quality akin to an Astro 3205, 3210, 3215 and a 3220....

In my 6 years of reverse engineering, designing hubs from scratch, testing countless vendors equipment for safety, efficiency, power and flaws, building my own prototype systems, supporting all of our inventors here on ES (recumpence, Fetcher, Gary Goodrum, Methods, Kepler and many many more) I have to say, this is the finest method of power delivery yet offered to the general public for kit purposes and it's potential (even with nothing more than proper software calibration) are nearly endless for low to mid powered, easy to build, versatile and efficient eBikes.

Okay there is my .02c for what it's worth, if you post your requirements here or PM them to me I will be happy to assist you in selecting a proper battery for your needs, budget, etc (just don't tell me you have $12.34 because you can't run this off of 9 AA batteries, jk).

Hope this helps!

Regards,
Mike
 
Hi,

first of all thanks for all replies, you help me a lot!


I wanted to place a 10ah battery pack under the seat, but I realized that it's not enough for my needs (10km - 800 m difference of altitude), and a bigger battery, with the

compression of shock absorber, should be touch the battery (look at the attachment, this will be my future ebike). So I think that I'll place a battery of 15/20 AH in a backpack.

The other possibility (thanks Mike for help me), is to create a battery pack DIY inside the frame. Which battery should I buy? I would like to get to 48V 20 AH.

Thx
Diana
 
Mike,

Interesting you made a 13s battery pack using 5s and 3s batteries. Did you actually break them down and solder the packs together or just wired them up? Is there any drawbacks to this with voltage and current? If I wanted to make a 14s battery pack... would I use 3s and 4s packs?

Cheers,
Art
 
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