Bafang BBSxx - fault finding and fixes
- Thread starter Slowrider
- Start date
speedmd
10 MW
With this type of defect, there is clear video evidence of poor gear meshing or noisy bearings enough to get them to send the correct parts or better yet want the motor back for a more complete failure analysis review. Many small companies look at this all wrong. You are handing them a pot of gold here. With it they have the treasure of many hours of durability testing done for them. As always in these situations, someone knows exactly what went wrong and who exactly decided to ship borderline product! The re-seller is not the one to blame IMO. They seem to have played an active roll in fighting for a good outcome. Bafang quality and engineering needs to see this one from the sounds of it.
tomjasz
1 GW
He didn't purchase from a small company. He purchased from a retail and wholesale source. I remain extremely disappointed. If this is how warranty peroiod failures are handles, why pay the premium. We may as well use another reseller and save $100.
alfantastic
10 kW
BBS02 48v 25A 750w.
This probably isn't a fault at all and may be a characteristic of the system.
Does anybody experience a small click, when turning the pedals forward again, after the pedals have been stationary?
It will do this only when moving, whether PAS assisted or the system is turned off. It clicks only once, well, at least until the pedals are stationary again.
It sounds like the pawls re-engaging, for the pedals to assist with driving the chainring. The whole set-up works flawlessly, so I'm not fussed by this, but was wondering if it is actually a characteristic of the Bafang BBSxx.
This probably isn't a fault at all and may be a characteristic of the system.
Does anybody experience a small click, when turning the pedals forward again, after the pedals have been stationary?
It will do this only when moving, whether PAS assisted or the system is turned off. It clicks only once, well, at least until the pedals are stationary again.
It sounds like the pawls re-engaging, for the pedals to assist with driving the chainring. The whole set-up works flawlessly, so I'm not fussed by this, but was wondering if it is actually a characteristic of the Bafang BBSxx.
tomjasz
1 GW
Yes.alfantastic said:
speedmd
10 MW
These odd little sounds are not faults in general and mainly don't need fixing. Lots of what folks are wanting / expecting out of this system just is not going to happen with the design. If it runs and does not make significantly ugly sounds, it should not be on this thread IMO. Certainly not a good thing, that it makes odd sounds here and there, but I do not believe re-engineering out normal noises is a topic we need to mix in with lights out type issues that are plenty enough in this relatively complex system. A good thread topic would be "BBSxx early warning sounds", "Sick sounding BBSxx", or "BBSxx not yet broken sounds" for the not yet broken systems. From the looks of it, that thread will be significantly large enough on its own.
tomjasz
1 GW
WTF, you want a clean thread, on ES? LOL! VBG!
EDIT
I'm sorry for the sarcasm. I just have gotten so accustomed to the horribly difficult threads that I've given up. I've been building a bunch of files. Perhaps it's time for a FAQ. It just doesn't work on a thread that isn't moderated for chatter.
EDIT
I'm sorry for the sarcasm. I just have gotten so accustomed to the horribly difficult threads that I've given up. I've been building a bunch of files. Perhaps it's time for a FAQ. It just doesn't work on a thread that isn't moderated for chatter.
alfantastic
10 kW
speedmd said:
Totally agree with you speedmd. Maybe a thread topic, not just to include normal noises, but normal characteristics of the system too, such as the long pause before the motor kicks in again after using a brake cut-off.
People can reference the thread and say, hey that's normal, I don't have to fill up the fault thread with what I thought was an issue
speedmd
10 MW
The BBSxx is a complex system by itself and even more complex when adding all the bike / frame fit and assembly issues. Mechanically alone the system is much more complex than most ebike setups and with it's wide spread use, I see a single topic thread for faults growing out of proportion to real usefulness. This is before we get into the nitty programing, controller, display and other electrical input/ troubleshooting issues. Not sure how best to organize the topics here. Maybe the moderators have some better insight.
tomjasz
1 GW
This wonderful forum is to loosely moderated for that to happen. Now before anyone gets frustrated by that, I appreciate that attitude most of the time. I also understand that moderators give a LOT of time to this place. Perhaps a new thread or two and a Bafang moderator? OR we work together and create a FAQ for moderator approval? It sure would be nice to find information without spending and hour to flush something out.speedmd said:
Another concept I'd really like to see...On ModernVedpa we had the attitude that n00bs were just that, and many times people are weak in search skills, don't have proper nomenclature, or for a variety of forgivable reasons can't find information. We NEVER answered by saying "do a search". Rather we, those who had been around a while, and knew our way around, always took a moment to point a questioner to the appropriate thread or post. If we didn't have the answer we let someone who did chime in. In that culture we considered "go search" a dickish answer. The way to grow interest and the group is being helpful. If you don't know and can't help, stay out and let someone else but never answer if not linking or helping.
If you can help a new user, please do so. If you know a past topic that would help them and don't mind pointing it out, please do so. Otherwise, just move on -- don't take it upon yourself to be the Search Cop.
speedmd
10 MW
It may be best to have some groupings on the first page as on other threads. Mechanical /assembly issues/ tools/ dis assembly/ noises etc.. Electrical: trouble shooting, Programming, internal controller- ca/ external controller...etc.. I think this kit will be around for awhile and some organizing of the vast reference materials will suit most of us.
tahustvedt
10 kW
micopl said:
Retighten the crank arm to 35 N (which is more than you can do with a little allen wrench
). Retighten the large bottom bracket nuts. Check the nut inside the bottom bracket housing.
Large bottom bracket nut...you mean the lock ring and cover?
Secondly, I hope I am not being one of those annoying people, but I've noticed more of a grind coming from my 750bbs02 w about 2k miles on it.
Is it typical to have to tear down to the final big gear and remove, clean and lube the bearings up? I just wonder if that is causing some of the noise and rough feeling when pedaling using PAS. It's not particularly noticeable when motor is not engaged or when just using throttle.
Thank you for this great thread.
Secondly, I hope I am not being one of those annoying people, but I've noticed more of a grind coming from my 750bbs02 w about 2k miles on it.
Is it typical to have to tear down to the final big gear and remove, clean and lube the bearings up? I just wonder if that is causing some of the noise and rough feeling when pedaling using PAS. It's not particularly noticeable when motor is not engaged or when just using throttle.
Thank you for this great thread.
puregsr
100 W
Symptom:
Continuous squealing sound when pedaling under human power, goes away whenever motor engages both throttle and PAS.
Strange that it happens after it warms up or after riding for a while, quiet after resting for a few hours.
Anybody with the same probelm?
Continuous squealing sound when pedaling under human power, goes away whenever motor engages both throttle and PAS.
Strange that it happens after it warms up or after riding for a while, quiet after resting for a few hours.
Anybody with the same probelm?
ginekolog
10 W
puregsr said:
I have same problem. Small metal gear is worn in my case, check my first post.
Hi all,
I installed my 750w BBS02 kit from Paul at EM3EV last Friday, but I've been getting an error 30. Initially, it would happen intermittently after about 5-10 miles of riding. PAS and throttle would work as expected until that point. Oddly, charging the battery seemed to temporarily resolve the issue a few times even though error 30 is not related to the battery. Maybe that moved the wires enough to get a better connection.
However, now I can't get rid of the error no matter how many times I charge, disconnect, wiggle and reconnect wires. Paul suggested separating the communication wire from the power wire as it may have been creating some interference, but that didn't work either.
Now I'm at a loss. I'm waiting to see if Paul has any other suggestions, but wanted to check with you guys too. None of the error 30 threads I've found seem to have a resolution. Could someone walk me through testing continuity for the communications wire?
Help! I got a sweet taste of the fun that is an e-bike and now I long for more!
I installed my 750w BBS02 kit from Paul at EM3EV last Friday, but I've been getting an error 30. Initially, it would happen intermittently after about 5-10 miles of riding. PAS and throttle would work as expected until that point. Oddly, charging the battery seemed to temporarily resolve the issue a few times even though error 30 is not related to the battery. Maybe that moved the wires enough to get a better connection.
However, now I can't get rid of the error no matter how many times I charge, disconnect, wiggle and reconnect wires. Paul suggested separating the communication wire from the power wire as it may have been creating some interference, but that didn't work either.
Now I'm at a loss. I'm waiting to see if Paul has any other suggestions, but wanted to check with you guys too. None of the error 30 threads I've found seem to have a resolution. Could someone walk me through testing continuity for the communications wire?
Help! I got a sweet taste of the fun that is an e-bike and now I long for more!
Hello, I just installed a bbs02 kit on my bike but it doesn't work. Can you guys please help me figure out why?
Here is the video:
[youtube]Pk6PQHmPULw[/youtube]
The display will flash on for half a second when I press the power button and then it will shut down and can't be turned on again unless I reconnect the battery.
The kit was ordered from aliexpress. I contacted the seller but they don't really have a clue about what went wrong. I'm closed to returning the kit back and ask for refund...
I used a multi-meter to test my battery and the reading is 54.4v when it's on and 51.7v when it's off. Is this normal? (48v 11ah)
Any advises will be appreciated thank you very much!
Here is the video:
[youtube]Pk6PQHmPULw[/youtube]
The display will flash on for half a second when I press the power button and then it will shut down and can't be turned on again unless I reconnect the battery.
The kit was ordered from aliexpress. I contacted the seller but they don't really have a clue about what went wrong. I'm closed to returning the kit back and ask for refund...
I used a multi-meter to test my battery and the reading is 54.4v when it's on and 51.7v when it's off. Is this normal? (48v 11ah)
Any advises will be appreciated thank you very much!
speedmd
10 MW
Display is showing low battery at turn on. I would start with that. May have a bad lead inside pack.
mushymelon
1 kW
First try disconnecting the ebrakes and throttle and try again.
Could you elaborate on how these test were performed (54.4v when it's on and 51.7v when it's off)
Your getting a good spark so thats a good thing but those power connectors are very poor. I highly recommend changing them.
Check the small pins in the main harness with a light make sure none are folded over.
I don't see any errors on the display they all show zero for a sec then display remaining battery.
Run through the basics first and go from there.
-Reduce wiring to only display and battery
-check and recheck power connections
Could you elaborate on how these test were performed (54.4v when it's on and 51.7v when it's off)
Your getting a good spark so thats a good thing but those power connectors are very poor. I highly recommend changing them.
Check the small pins in the main harness with a light make sure none are folded over.
I don't see any errors on the display they all show zero for a sec then display remaining battery.
Run through the basics first and go from there.
-Reduce wiring to only display and battery
-check and recheck power connections
KnNashua
1 mW
Fixed!!! Simply one of the brake motor shutoff leads was disconnected. That will give you error code 12 I guess.
see below for original post.
see below for original post.
KnNashua said:
