Bafang hub question

[yooper2001]

Are the Bafang motors different, or can you use them with the cheap aliexpress controllers and displays?

I know I have seen they might have a temp sensor, but do they have anything drastically different?

I heard bafang controllers are going can bus....so that's way away from uart.

My Urlife E20 is on sale for 275...and I got 2 spares...but its motor is only 500w.and 40nm...not quite enuff for my 240 ib ex ball player fat ass.

I plan on cold stretching the dropout with some threaded rod.. .it's only an inch and a half from 140mm to 175mm...and I got 2 spare frames....everything else fits...but I'll hafta change the front fork for 100$ to match.
Lots of motor choices if it works...none at 135-140mm atm with wheels...and nobody in all of Montana will touch weaving a wheel with a 3 inch rim and a hub motor . I called everyone listed. I am not artsie enuff to do it myself. I can fix anything except spokes.
It's just I have to keep it up near peak all the time.. and don't want to have to worry about temps, strain, ect..

Thanks for educating this newbie!

 

[n00b]

Does Bafang have strong hub motors? Hmm..

 

[yooper2001]

Does Bafang have strong hub motors? Hmm..

Thank you.....Very Very helpful!

 

[n00b]

Thank you.....Very Very helpful!

Pretty sure 9C and 9C clones and QS are the stronger hub motors.
Dropouts "only" have to go to 155mm for a QS motor. Most 9C stuff will drop right into 135mm dropouts.
This is not Bafang:
"Rear Fork size(mm):142"

Pardon Our Interruption...

So you could do your stretchy thing with that.
Bafang hub motors have integrated controller, no?
Well, you'd have to remove that and figure out the phases and halls.
Or, bolt a different motor up to your nice, strong, ergonomic frame there, and use a different controller and probably battery.

 

[amberwolf]

Are the Bafang motors different, or can you use them with the cheap aliexpress controllers and displays?

Whcih bafang motor, specifically? They make many different ones, of varying types and power capabilities.

Generally, yes, pretty much any of them could work with pretty much any controller, but: You need to know how much power is needed at what speed under what riding conditions, to be able to choose what motor and controller (and battery) to use.

If you pick a motor meant to run at high speed and run it at low speed and high load, you can overheat it.

If you pick a motor meant for low power and run it at high power, you can overheat it.

Etc.

There are motor and trip simulators at ebikes.ca that you can use to figure out what you need for your terrain and riding style and rider/bike/system/cargo weight, but if you provide that data we can give a guesstimate. Actual hill slopes are important to know for this.

I heard bafang controllers are going can bus....so that's way away from uart.

This is more likely for their middrives than their hubmotors. You'd need to specify which exact controller / motor system you're referring to for us to help with that.

My Urlife E20 is on sale for 275...and I got 2 spares...but its motor is only 500w.and 40nm...not quite enuff for my 240 ib ex ball player fat ass.

As noted above, how much power you need is determined also by your actual riding conditions, and your riding style, how fast you go, how quickly you need to accelerate, the slopes on your path, the type of surface, etc etc. Even your wheel size and tire type matter.

If you don't first determine what you need and instead just "go for it" you'll probably spend more in the many upgrades than you will if you just figure it out first and get the right stuff the first time.


Note that if you need more power than you have now, you also need a new battery that can provide that power, for the amount of time / range that you need it to do so.

I plan on cold stretching the dropout with some threaded rod.. .it's only an inch and a half from 140mm to 175mm...

That is a huge amount, and will probably damage the frame in a way that can fail catastrophically later on, and if it is not a steel frame, that will probalby happen without any warning while you are riding. That is usually a very bad situation when it happens.

A few mm might be ok, but even that will misalign the dropout plates and put the frame under more stresses it wasn't designed for (the hubmotor axle is already doing this as none of these frames even for prebuilt ebikes are actually designed for flatted-axle torque transmission).

and I got 2 spare frames....everything else fits...but I'll hafta change the front fork for 100$ to match.

Keep in mind that there are multiple fork steerer standards, so be sure you get ones that match your existing ones, or be prepared to figure out adapters to make it work in your headtube. There are also multiple dropout standards, so be sure you get ones that match the axle on your wheel.

If you are using the fork to hold a hubmotor, keep in mind that you can experience suspension binding during motor operation, and that droputs are not made for motors, so you will need *good* torque arms like the v7 from ebikes.ca or building your own clamping/pinching torque plates that you can bolt to the forks, or otherwise secure the motor so ti *cannot* rotate at all even the tiniest bit in the dropouts. If they can, they will wiggle around and eventually either break off the dropouts and have the wheel come out while riding (a very very bad thing) or spin out the axle which destroys the wiring and often shorts out and destroys the controller.

Lots of motor choices if it works...none at 135-140mm atm with wheels.

Not sure where you are looking. Most hubmotor wheels / kits are in that size range, if you are referring to dropout width.
If you have some specific requirement beyond that then you'd need to list the entire specfiics of the wheel and motor you're after in order to find something that works.

 

[stancecoke]

This is more likely for their middrives than their hubmotors.

That's not right, for hub motors the controllers are going to CAN also. But we find, that they are not really setable for different gear ratios etc. It seems that Bafang aims to sell "closed" systems of matching motor/controller/display bundles, mainly for OEMs, not for DIY conversions. But at least they are offering bundles that are working out of the box with BB torquesensors

all models are with .C for CAN bus meanwhile...
https://www.bafang-e.com/en/oem-area/components/controller/

 

[yooper2001]

Wow, Since I'm in Montana.... 20MPH is the limit for Ebikes period atm. We do have lots of hills, so more torque is a must.. 750 to 1000 watts rated is what I'm looking for as that's what I'm holding my 500 watt motor at constantly now. So I was looking at the G062s that are out....Cheap, available, and can get with a wheel already made everywhere (20 inch) fat tire., and not just a hub.
They are a geared motor that is made for torque vs speed which is what I want.

Some blacktop, but mostly gravel, dirt ROADS, with some light hunting trails is what I ride. Lots of hills.

Yes the frame is steel,(almost 45 ibs in itself) and im putting together a jig to make sure both sides open equally and squarely as we want to made sure the brake mounts stay square (I grew up on a farm fabricating)

The bike is a hard tail...no suspension. And the dropouts are 3/8" thick and are plates twice as big as a normal moutain bikes dropouts that are converted, so I'm not worried.

My batteries at both 50a max constant discharge...one 30ah...one 20ah. I had already put a 26a sine controller on my bike to even be tolerable to ride.

I know the motor cable changes at 30a.Which is what I will probably use as a new controller size.

The main source of my ignorance was if the bafang motors have the same 3 phase 6 hall sensor setup...and what nuances I should look for when hooking them up.
I had seen bafang had proprietary stuff, so I wasn't sure.


The reason I'd want to change the forks is that I'd rather a 4 inch front tire when having a 4 inch back tire.plis I'd add air instead of pure mechanical without lockout.

I've seen lots of 135to140mm hub motors around, but no complete wheel kits with 3 inch rims....I've only seen them on bikes themselves.
In fact it took me a month of asking rim manufacturers on alibaba to find someone who made the 20x3 rim


So if the g062 is wired to work like my current one.. I'm set. As long as there is no extra wire or sensor needed to operate it.


Thanks for making sure I had my head screwed on before starting..

 

[n00b]

20 mph.
BBS03 in the 1st 2 gears will pull all that needs to and get there faster than most things.
Pretty sure the lowest gear gets up to 17 MPH, and mine is a 38t.
Really that mid-drive bike of mine would be best for trail riding and up and down hills n stuff. Sugar sand, even.
High torque, top end notsomuch.
Dude, I think you should watch some videos and learn how to lace a rim.
Get the motor, spokes and rim, and lace it up.
Not gonna lie, it's a pain, but it's doable. I've done it b4 with fancy sealed bearing titanium hubs and some rim
I thought was good. That thing was always getting dinged.
After about 8 truings and a curb bruise, that wheel was ready for retirement.
IOW: Get a motor that'll fit in your dropouts almost or right away, then lace up the rim you want to it.
Aluminum spokes MAY carry heat away from a hub motor.

 

[yooper2001]

20 mph.
BBS03 in the 1st 2 gears will pull all that needs to and get there faster than most things.
Pretty sure the lowest gear gets up to 17 MPH, and mine is a 38t.
Really that mid-drive bike of mine would be best for trail riding and up and down hills n stuff. Sugar sand, even.
High torque, top end notsomuch.
Dude, I think you should watch some videos and learn how to lace a rim.
Get the motor, spokes and rim, and lace it up.
Not gonna lie, it's a pain, but it's doable. I've done it b4 with fancy sealed bearing titanium hubs and some rim
I thought was good. That thing was always getting dinged.
After about 8 truings and a curb bruise, that wheel was ready for retirement.
IOW: Get a motor that'll fit in your dropouts almost or right away, then lace up the rim you want to it.
Aluminum spokes MAY carry heat away from a hub motor.

Well If you lived in Montana....I'd give you a Benjamin and a case of beer to do it for me!

I can't weld either.. No Artsie Fartsie talent whatsoever. I'm more rain man.

 

[n00b]

Wow, Since I'm in Montana.... 20MPH is the limit for Ebikes period atm. We do have lots of hills, so more torque is a must.. 750 to 1000 watts rated is what I'm looking for as that's what I'm holding my 500 watt motor at constantly now. So I was looking at the G062s that are out....Cheap, available, and can get with a wheel already made everywhere (20 inch) fat tire., and not just a hub.
They are a geared motor that is made for torque vs speed which is what I want.

Some blacktop, but mostly gravel, dirt ROADS, with some light hunting trails is what I ride. Lots of hills.

Yes the frame is steel,(almost 45 ibs in itself) and im putting together a jig to make sure both sides open equally and squarely as we want to made sure the brake mounts stay square (I grew up on a farm fabricating)

The bike is a hard tail...no suspension. And the dropouts are 3/8" thick and are plates twice as big as a normal moutain bikes dropouts that are converted, so I'm not worried.

My batteries at both 50a max constant discharge...one 30ah...one 20ah. I had already put a 26a sine controller on my bike to even be tolerable to ride.

I know the motor cable changes at 30a.Which is what I will probably use as a new controller size.

The main source of my ignorance was if the bafang motors have the same 3 phase 6 hall sensor setup...and what nuances I should look for when hooking them up.
I had seen bafang had proprietary stuff, so I wasn't sure.


The reason I'd want to change the forks is that I'd rather a 4 inch front tire when having a 4 inch back tire.plis I'd add air instead of pure mechanical without lockout.

I've seen lots of 135to140mm hub motors around, but no complete wheel kits with 3 inch rims....I've only seen them on bikes themselves.
In fact it took me a month of asking rim manufacturers on alibaba to find someone who made the 20x3 rim


So if the g062 is wired to work like my current one.. I'm set. As long as there is no extra wire or sensor needed to operate it.


Thanks for making sure I had my head screwed on before starting..

You might want to make sure it doesn't have a proprietary controller all siliconed into that hub, because I'm thinking it just might.
Looks like just hall sensors, so you might be good to go!

I know some of the cheaper ones do.

 

[yooper2001]

You might want to make sure it doesn't have a proprietary controller all siliconed into that hub, because I'm thinking it just might

Well Grins hubs are different....welded clutches, through axles, ect ... .The bafang cables have extra pins that I don't know what they do....it's a valid question...no need to be that way.

 

[n00b]

Well Grins hubs are different....welded clutches, through axles, ect ... .The bafang cables have extra pins that I don't know what they do....it's a valid question...no need to be that way.

That's their "proprietariness" brah.
The extra one might be a temp sensor. I'd look for a pinout on it.
I bet they aren't like, standardly color-coded, either.
Definitely BBS03 halls aren't. Only 5 of those, though.
A pic of the hall wire colors seems to be what's needed here.
Doubt I'm hookin' halls up on my next build anyway, even though there's a harness with a plug already made somewhere around here.
It's a benefit vs. moving parts that can mess up balance.