Bayliner Conversion

[goatman]

used little alligator clips for batt



voltage



full throttle



hot little alligator clips :lol:

didnt grease the shaft going to the leg

you can hear the meshing of the brass and shaft

will try grease, if that doesnt work
ill check alignment but its really close

coupling spinning

 

[nicobie]

Success!

 

[goatman]

controller bracket, not so much
i saw it was lifting off the plate but it wasnt interfering with the print so kept printing but overnight it really lifted at the corner
everything is square and true
printed at 80% fill, maybe thats why everything didnt get warped?









warp

 

[nicobie]

Looks like it will work.

Maybe next time try glue stick on the bed or change bed temps? The textured glass bed has been working great for me, but I haven't tried such a large thin plate yet. Maybe ribs would have helped?

 

[goatman]

thats V1, next will be carbon fiber pla
ill try glue stick and i need to find out how to calibrate the printer
never did any calibrating, just assembled it levelled bed, turned it on and started printing
where did you go for those test pieces

 

[nicobie]

The best place I've found is this:

https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html#intro

Do extruder steps and flow test for accuracy. First layer test is most important for bed sticking problems. Temp and retraction tests are useful too. His other tests I either don't understand or don't think I need. Yet.

 

[goatman]

the noise is from the coupling, ill calibrate and reprint it and check the legs driveshaft to make sure that isnt the culprit.

got the app working
still need to do all the settings and figure it out
controller came set to 4 pole pairs the da85 has 6 poles
do i set to 6 or 3???

 

[goatman]

i picked up a used pan yesterday for the steering bracket



the leg shaft is unsupported for about 20 inches from the gear box to the motor
theres an oil seal in the pan



its an NGK, i bet i can replace that with a bearing



honda calls it a waterseal, part# 91251-ZW2-F01

from this picture, i think its an NGK-bg4529f with a dimension of 17x26x7mm, above pic looks like E not F
https://www.partspak.com/productcart/pc/Honda-91251-ZW2-F01-Seal-17X26X7-91251ZW2F01-p377100.htm

now i just to need to find a bearing that size
put dimensions into a bearing calculator got 3803-2rs
https://www.bearingboys.co.uk/bearingsearch.cgi?insidedia=17&outsidedia=26&width=7&type=

amazon, good for 10,000rpm
https://www.amazon.com/3803-2RS-Angular-Contact-Bearing-17x26x10mm/dp/B015RPAJSA

 

[goatman]

got 6803 bearing locally, 26x17x5

fits the shaft



tapped right in



alignment was off by a mile, had to file the holes to get the motor back on



no damage to the coupling



but it whistles pretty good at 5000rpm



might try to run the coupling on the motor and "lathe" it with some sandpaper

got the jumper cables, probably going to replace the 1/0 wire with 4 awg in the motor area
was going to run it through the old fuel line hole but will try going in through where the tiller arm was



getting ready to print the adapter plate from carbon fiber pla to replace the aluminum
did a test print to make sure the holes were correct and bolted it to the old motor block



having bed alignment issues, might need new springs or something before printing it though. i think it will use 1kg of filament and a week to print

 

[nicobie]

Curious, are you going to print the plate with 100% infill?

 

[goatman]

no, its going to be something like this with a 15mm plate
the plate alone is 600 grams



the problem with the printer was eccentric screws but the cad file for the plate is screwed/corrupt, still printing crooked. so i grabbed the controller bracket file and started printing it just fine
have to design another one

 

[goatman]

motor adapter plate came in at 1060 grams
wound up punching holes and carving out the plate to get down to 914 grams, 5 days to print
should have the nozzle and new bed springs tonight and another kit for the feed and new bowden tube

 

[goatman]

normally theres 2-6mm alignment pins for the motor/pan alignment
dont want to rely on them for this adapter plate or have to use too much torque on the bolts

designed this sleeve to fit inside the pan bolt holes which are 9.7mm id
m8 rod is 7.8mm od

can make them eccentric if needed

 

[goatman]

PLA CF, 32mm high



the new settings added a day to the print, 6d 5hrs 50min, starting now

 

[nicobie]

That's a big print! I wish you good luck. :thumb:

 

[ZeroEm]

How many hours are these printers rated for?
Or all the parts replaceable?

 

[goatman]

everythings replaceable and cheap to upgrade
was thinking of making this one a direct drive

but to go from an idea in your head to a part in your hand in 10 minutes like that little liner is pretty awesome

 

[nicobie]

I think with our printers direct drive is only useful if you want to print flexible filament, which the only use I can think of is for making small gaskets.

They make the print head heaver too, slows the machine down, gives it the shakes.

 

[ZeroEm]

You guys are peaking my interest so tossing it around in my head.

 

[goatman]

if a computer illiterate dummy like me can do it
itll be a breeze for you

 

[cheapcookie]

This is brilliant, need something small for a kayak, If I had a slip I'd do this in an instant.
Hope this turns out to be fun and safe for you!

 

[goatman]

a couple hrs with the roll on the holder and it started to skip at the feeder again
gave the tension screw 1/8 turn c/c and put the filament in the Sunlu dryer at 35c
ran all night with no skipping
got the machine dialed in so the feeder doesnt skip at all
but 1 corner lifted
i had peeled 2 bad initial prints off and some of the glue stick
put a good layer of glue stick down and a thin table cloth over the machine
see if that fixes it

the prints shrink
if i want a 3.9mm radius hole i have to enter 4.3mm to get 3.9 off the final print
same goes for height
the aluminum adapter i made was 2.5 inches/63.5mm
the print is designed at 66mm to allow for shrinkage if there is any
it gives me more room in the coupling
this failed print is 3mm thick
now i have a spacer if i need it

but its all dead nuts center and tight



had to pull the table cloth off, filament was getting too warm and started skipping again

i had bought this extruder feeder kit, it has a single brass 40 tooth gear

https://www.amazon.ca/Creality-Capricorn-Upgraded-Pneumatic-Bed-level/dp/B081DN6RM2/ref=sr_1_16?dchild=1&keywords=ender+3+v2+feed&qid=1632067077&sr=8-16

im going to buy this one, looks like stainless dual gear extruder feeder, it also has that yellow spring which is the same as the upgraded springs

https://www.amazon.ca/WINSINN-Extruder-Creality-Upgraded-Aluminum/dp/B07SY745CF/ref=sr_1_13?dchild=1&keywords=ender%2B3%2Bv2%2Bfeed&qid=1632067077&sr=8-13&th=1

 

[nicobie]

That looks like it will solve your problem. Don't forget to recalibrate the extruder motor steps after installing it.

https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html#intro

 

[goatman]

i read the reviews on them, didnt matter if it was $10 or $50, they dont seem great

found stainless 36 tooth that seem to be good review without having to do esteps
going to try them first

https://www.amazon.ca/BIQU-Extruder-36Teeth-Stainless-Filament/dp/B01J5ON2Y2/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=ender+3+stainless+36&qid=1632079287&sr=8-5

 

[goatman]

made a mistake in cad where the adapter plate height is 6to8mm too short
but i had 2 plates from a misprint
1-pla+@2.5mm
1- pla cf @4mm



the liners to pin the plate to the pan worked surprisingly well



motor plopped on like it was dead center :thumb:



printed a pla cf coupling and its on the motor for testing

this pla+ tough by Duramic
those little liners are only 1mm thick sidewalls, couldnt cut it with a razor
used the angle grinder and couldnt snap them in half by hand