Bayliner Conversion

was running the motor in gear at 3000rpm, amps stabilized at 50
15 minutes in it overheated at 150C and controller shutdown, controller temp was fine 52C

after i bought this motor i read that it will run forever at 150C
i wasnt sure if thats its operating temperature
the amps started at 80 and as it heats up the amps drop

ill email alex to see if i got something wrong in the settings, maybe i need to raise the temp cut off to 160C

its rated for 3000 watts continuous and thats what i want

other than that the couplings running nice and smooth, good alignment

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plastics not melting :D



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operating temp is 150
ill raise shut off to 160

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in the app im set at 6 pole pairs
on the website it says 6 poles, is that bad translation or should i be at 3 pole pairs

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raise s/o temp and saved but it still shutdown at 150C
 
changed to 3 pole pairs
amps way down and motor is way more responsive

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plug into trike, duct tape throttle at 2964rpm in gear, lets see how hot it gets

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20 minutes in, temps fine, mtr 41C, controller 28C, back off the rpm because of the controllers 3000rpm limit was pulsing the rpm's
time to clean out a garbage can and do a water test

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could only get upto 30 amps/1360rpm in the garbage can but i let it run for 15 minutes at 25amps/1200rpm

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temps were ok

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its really quiet, no funny sounds

ive been designing a new motor adapter plate and controller plate

for cooling all the air is going to be pulled from the lower leg, across the coupling under the motor and one section for the controller and out the top.
then design a magnetic connection for the 12v fan on the cowling/hood kinda like a cupboard so you you can lift the hood without disconnecting the wires
 
In your case you can change max temperature to 160C. Actually max temperature can be 180C - but temperature sensor can be broken. And sometime (when use it in bike) when starting or acceleration very quick - the phase current can be very big and there is a possibility that the wire can heat up very quickly and the sensor will not have time to work. So we make max temperature 150C - sometimes (for motorcycles) 130C
 
If you want to make more soft throttle reaction:
1. please check this parameter first 1059 - its must be = 0 (speed / torque control)
2. Please check parameters 102F, 1032, 1035 - if value = 0.7 - put value = 1
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Crappy Tire has a sale on solar panels, in the flyer I got. Might be a regional thing or not.

Not bad, I changed the location on the website to Surrey to check things out for ya BC goat.
https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/search-results.html?q=solar%20panels
100W $200 reg $550
150W $250 reg $600
 
Denzel Motors said:
If you want to make more soft throttle reaction:
1. please check this parameter first 1059 - its must be = 0 (speed / torque control)
2. Please check parameters 102F, 1032, 1035 - if value = 0.7 - put value = 1
102E-1036.jpg

thank you for getting back to me :thumb:

if i hit the throttle with prop out of water it hits 3000 rpm in 2 seconds
in water it hits 2000rpm in 2 seconds :lol:
the carbon fiber coupling can handle it but i want to slow down the torque ramp up rate
 
markz said:
Crappy Tire has a sale on solar panels, in the flyer I got. Might be a regional thing or not.

Not bad, I changed the location on the website to Surrey to check things out for ya BC goat.
https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/search-results.html?q=solar%20panels
100W $200 reg $550
150W $250 reg $600

ive pretty much decided to just buy another kit and turn it into an onboard generator for charging or for long range/hybrid operation

theres no room for enough solar panels, old tech, waste of money
 
printed a plug to replace the fuel connector

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printed a new pla carbon fiber motor adapter plate, had to make it in 2 pieces and glue it together with jb weld plastic bonder

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order a prop from Nettle Props in Texas, i saw it was out for delivery in Edmonton Alberta by mistake last friday and was being returned to sender
Nettle didnt have another one in stock, they got another one and expressed it to me, got it today :bigthumb:

old prop 9.25x14 3 blade
new prop 10.2x11 4 blade

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probably finish wiring the motor tomorrow
put 12 used-6volt 235ah batteries in the boat today
getting closer :)
 
printed a junction box to hold 18awg wire with 2mm gold plated connectors so i can rewire the controller

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the heatshrink will snug fit it

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jb weld

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printers still busy printing :D

made a plate for shifter cable, pos, neg and control harness

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going to use a twist throttle on the remote control so i can shift and throttle while docking and a pot in the dash for cruise

need to design a new handle with an internal tapered spline and a spring loaded neutral lock

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and a 22mm bar for the throttle

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the only wires going upto the helm are throttle and usb so the motor can be switched to a tiller arm easily

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decided to make an adapter from spline to square, havent figured out how to taper it but i can load this up with jb weld plastic bonder if needed. this way if it strips i wont need to replace the entire handle
did a free hand sketch for this one, will try a false involute one from free cad also so i have 2 to try when im at the boat next

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now to do the handle

thinking of re-naming the boat "The Dumpster Diver" :D

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got the handle roughed out, need to figure out the neutral lock and shape it

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got the neutral lock cut out, its printing but is looking kind of scrawny on the build plate, atleast i can try it out tomorrow

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feels wrong in the hand, might try a thumb throttle or make it vertical



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made a bigger one with a removable grip, have a couple thumb throttles coming today and will design the grip next

been using up the Sunlu pla cf on these with a 0.5mm nozzle, its no comparison to the PLA tough cf from filaments.ca, pretty sure the sunlu is carbon fiber powder.

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the grip is done, running low on filament so its in marble for now, will do it in cf so it doesnt feel like plastic. other than that it feels really good, solid and natural in the hand when using the thumb throttle

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need to clean up the wiring for the charger/batteries

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want to use a battery selector switch so i can parallel some lithium into the system

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its rated upto 32v, 250amp cont and 360amp burst

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do the math thats 7.5kw continuous through the switch

i dont need 7.5kw, more like 5kw max but at 70v and 100amps limit that im running can i use that switch?
 
putting fans in the top of the cowl
needed a break away connector that self aligns on all axis
used 7.5mm magnets that oppose each other if you were to try and connect reverse polarity

used the cowl latch holes for mounting

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looking through the fan exhaust hole on top of cowl to see how it aligned once cowl latched in place

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mounting plate for 2-40mm 12v/0.05a fans

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put some plastic wrap on the plate, put a bunch of silicone on the cowl for bedding, bolted plate for 24hrs to cure then pulled plate and plastic off

got fans with blue lights

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the light comes out the rear of the cowl at night and only uses 0.05amps/fan, they move a little bit of air

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Grin now sells dc/dc programmable convertors, ordered it sunday got it today :D

https://ebikes.ca/shop/electric-bicycle-parts/dc-dc-converters/adjustabe-15a-dcdc-converter.html

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i see theyre selling factory seconds Satiators at 40% off
tempting....
 
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