BE-Bike - The project starts NOW - Turnigy 130KV Brushless

The drive looks good.

May I suggest washers under the motor screw heads? My V1 drives did not use them and the heads dug into the aluminum. Now I make a couple different style plates to go under the screw heads to protect the slots.

I like the simplicity of your layout.

Matt
 
katou said:
I'm not sure that the bolts I see will be up to the torsion loads imposed by the chains. Even a thin plate of aluminum like 4-6mm would make a big difference.

+1 after seeing the twisting of frames from these motors i think those threaded rods
need the accompaniment of some ali plates to help brace it... Good work none the less
where did you pick up the table? Looks to be pretty decent size for the price! I wantz it! :p

KiM
 
katou said:
Is there a plate to connect the motor plate to the plate holding the little cog on the jackshaft?

I'm not sure that the bolts I see will be up to the torsion loads imposed by the chains. Even a thin plate of aluminum like 4-6mm would make a big difference.

Lots of good progress there. For a drill press and a cross-vise no less.

How did you cut the recess for the bearings to fit properly?

Katou

Nope, there isn't. I'm neither sure that it will hold the power hehe, but I hope it will. If it doesn't I will redesign it. I used "stepp drills" for the bearing holes. The biggest stepp drill had a diameter of 32mm, my bearings were also 32mm so it was quite easy actually :) (Link where I bought them: http://cgi.ebay.de/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220643903703&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT#ht_758wt_905)

recumpence said:
The drive looks good.

May I suggest washers under the motor screw heads? My V1 drives did not use them and the heads dug into the aluminum. Now I make a couple different style plates to go under the screw heads to protect the slots.

I like the simplicity of your layout.

Matt

Yup, I have some 5mm washers laying around here somwhere, I only have to find them hehe :mrgreen:

AussieJester said:
katou said:
I'm not sure that the bolts I see will be up to the torsion loads imposed by the chains. Even a thin plate of aluminum like 4-6mm would make a big difference.

+1 after seeing the twisting of frames from these motors i think those threaded rods
need the accompaniment of some ali plates to help brace it... Good work none the less
where did you pick up the table? Looks to be pretty decent size for the price! I wantz it! :p

KiM

It's not the highest quality cross table, but it's sooooooo much easier for me to work on my aluminium pieces. I bought mine from eBay for €96 including shipping costs, which is quite cheap I think. Hmmm, I was searching for a link for you, but... I can only find this table for €180 :shock: (It's exactly the same as this one, only €90 cheaper wtf? http://cgi.ebay.de/Kreuztisch-Frast...uwerkzeuge&hash=item483c88784a#ht_7077wt_1181) That's very strange... I remember there were LOTS of sellers selling this table between €97 and €110.

sico said:
KiM,

some tables here:

], but not as cheap as ByTe's table.

These guys are around the corner from me :) . And now you've reawakened my lust for a mill drill, I'm thinking of the x3:

16477.jpeg


I would slowly convert to CNC. 8) This site is eating into my kids' uni funds :lol:

Simon.

The x3 is niceeee! But those things are soooo expensive :( Oh, and I'm happy with my €60 drill press and €97 cross table, although it can't mill lol
 
If you don't want the plates, you can run the threaded rod through a piece of pipe, one per bolt. Cut the pipes all exactly the same length and then torque the hell out of the bolts. The pipes act as spacers and allow you to really snug down the bolts. Bigger the pipe, more rigidity and resistance to torsion. Square aluminum pipe can be used as well.

Is that enough description for you to see what I mean?

Katou
 
Good job man!

How did you get such clean countersink holes? Did you use a special bit for this?
How did you mill your slots in? Did you buy an end mill cutter?

Look forward to more updates...
 
katou said:
If you don't want the plates, you can run the threaded rod through a piece of pipe, one per bolt. Cut the pipes all exactly the same length and then torque the hell out of the bolts. The pipes act as spacers and allow you to really snug down the bolts. Bigger the pipe, more rigidity and resistance to torsion. Square aluminum pipe can be used as well.

Is that enough description for you to see what I mean?

Katou

That was my first idea indeed, I said it in my first post since the update: "It's not finished yet, I need to make 3 pipes from aluminium to secure both pieces of alu with the 3 screws you can see. " You probably missed it I think. I already have the pipe btw, only need to cut 3 pieces of it. I think I posted a picture with the pipe too.
Thank you for your input Katou :)

EDIT: Yep, a few posts ago you can see the aluminium pieces on the cross table including the aluminium pipe.

etard said:
Good job man!

How did you get such clean countersink holes? Did you use a special bit for this?
How did you mill your slots in? Did you buy an end mill cutter?

Look forward to more updates...

For the countersink holes I used a thing like this: http://www.bosch-do-it.com.au/mam/bosch-pt-centralpool/diy/diyknowledge/lexicon/senker.jpeg Be careful when you buy one of these, they are available in different sizes of degrees.
For the slots I drilled 2x5mm holes, 60mm from each other. Between those 60mm I drilled 5mm holes (the cross table was very useful for this job), after that I used my flex, dremel and ended with a few hours of filing which was very annoying work. For the bigger slot I did the same, only with 8mm holes.
 
I didn't posted since 2 months... shame on me! But I'm very busy with school, so I can't work much on my bike. Anyway, last week I had some spare time and this week too so I made some progress. (Excuse me for these crappy pictures, they're made with my mobile)

I finished (95%) my battery box, made from 5mm some kind of "black mirroring" plexiglass. My 4 LiPo's should fit in there perfectly and I will mount the ESC under the ESC :)

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And right now I'm working on the 2 mounts for the motor. Also made of 7075 aluminium.
img20110608193802.jpg

img20110610164536.jpg

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I will try to get these mounts finished asap and make some high quality pics of it!


- Patrick
 
Update, update, update! Finally got school holidays, so yesterday and today I had some spare time I spent on working on my bike. I made some better pictures of the battery box and I also finished the frame mounts.

Battery box:


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Front-top

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Back-top

img3211c.jpg

Inside

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Closed

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CC ESC mounted underneath the battery box, I like this design

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Battery connectors

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Frame mounts

img3227x.jpg

Closer view

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Put some soft foam in it to protect the frame


Well, there's not that much left to do. Tomorrow I'm going on holiday for 2 weeks to Italy, I hope to get the bike running in about a month, and ofcourse WITH video! :mrgreen:
 
Just a little update: Repaired the potentiometer from the throttle and build it together. The throttle works flawless, without any "dead spot" in the throttle! Thanks AJ for the tip you gave me, a while ago.

I might stand up early tomorrow to mount all the stuff to the bike, so maybe I could already run the bike tomorrow with some luck :D If not, then it will be over 2 weeks!

- Patrick
 
Back from Italy! Mounted the drive on the bike, and I'm very very very lucky: about everything fits perfectly, the mounts feel very solid but I need to dril out a few pieces out of the mounts to get it fitted 100% perfect. I set my alarm for 8AM tomorrow and I plan to start working at 9AM till 12AM, take a brake and start working again at 2PM till I get tired hehe. Maybe I could make my first testride tomorrow? (With video ofcourse!) I'm so excited about this! :mrgreen:

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Let's see it with the battery box mounted!! :p :p

Seriously, your bike looks great, I'm really impressed with what you have done.

E few suggestions:

While you have it off go ahead and chop out some more aluminum behind the front tire, when you hit the brakes hard your fork will flex at least this much and kill those knobby tires nearly instantly on that sharp edge, not too mention you have a suspension fork. I'm sure you have thought of this...

Also, your motor is in a VERY precarious position and will suck in some debri off the tire quickstatus, which will completely suck, ask me how I know. :x Get a guard on that thing!!

Get rid of those connectors!! I have those same ones, and trust me, they are a major PITA to take apart.

Can't wait to see the video, you better be wearing some dreads!
 
etard said:
Let's see it with the battery box mounted!! :p :p

Seriously, your bike looks great, I'm really impressed with what you have done.

E few suggestions:

While you have it off go ahead and chop out some more aluminum behind the front tire, when you hit the brakes hard your fork will flex at least this much and kill those knobby tires nearly instantly on that sharp edge, not too mention you have a suspension fork. I'm sure you have thought of this...

Also, your motor is in a VERY precarious position and will suck in some debri off the tire quickstatus, which will completely suck, ask me how I know. :x Get a guard on that thing!!

Get rid of those connectors!! I have those same ones, and trust me, they are a major PITA to take apart.

Can't wait to see the video, you better be wearing some dreads!

Hopefully the battery box will be mounted tomorrow :) Thank you for your kind words Etard.

Yup, I thought about cutting some aluminium from the front mount, as the tire will hit the mount when braking and the fork is used (already tried that hehe). Ooh many thanks for that suggestion! I will definitely search for some kind of plastic to use as a guard, some kind of material which is bendable should be good I think.

Hahaha I'm used to those connectors (I use them on more applications) and I don't have any problems with taking them apart, actually, I find it very easy? Thought, I remember having some problems with them when I wasn't used to them, but now it goes very quickly and easy.


Again, thank you for your kind words etard and for the suggestion on the guard!
 
+1 on the motor mount connecting with on the front wheel if the fork is under compression. Not sure how you would get around it unless you can move the motor mount down a little. Or I guess a solid front fork or perhaps a 24' front and rear wheel. Then again its hard do judge distance and angles from a photo it could be all good .

Nice to see another 80 100 RC drive almost under power. Videos are going to be great :D

Kurt
 
Byte,
I hope i am wrong, but I see a pretty major fail point with your frame cushioning motor mount. Ths system is going to be generating some seriouse tourque & you will want as much clamp force as possible at that point. If it is has flex, it will be an unhappy test ride of thrown chains & frustraition.

The good news is you have the proper style of clamp for a very secure mounting. Much better than the knife edge of a U-bolt digging into a frame creating a nasty stress point.
good luck.
T
 
Hi Byte,

Love the batt box. At present im trying to make one up for my chopper - its an odd shape. Though mine is part wood part abs sheet. The only problem I see with yours is - RAIN! If your not running your bike in the rain then you'll be ok.

img3212lm.jpg


Linving in Bonnie Scotland you never know when the next downpour is going to hit. So I'll have to overlap the top lid/scetion of my batt box, I/you dont want rain/water hitting the lid and seaping down inside the box. Water and lipos dont mix well I should imagine :D

The projects looking good. I'll keep my eye on it for further progress :wink:

Regards
Tom
 
I was so tired yesterday I wasn't in the mood to post here... Anyway, yesterday I woke up at 8AM, started working on my bike at 9AM. The first thing I started to do was drilling out the bore of the motor sprocket to 12mm, it was very hard steel so it took me some time. The result? Horrible.
The hole I drilled was not in line, the sprocket is useless. At afternoon my dad came to help me, as a lot of things are almost impossible to do alone. My goal was to make just a little ride on the bike, so I wasn't working very secure and solid as I had little time left. It was 9PM at that time and I started ductaping all things together, I was very tired. Even though the sprocket wasn't drilled in line, I still placed it on the motor as I just wanted to see this thing turn. In the mean time I concluded that if I would make a test ride, the battery box could fall off, the chains will probably flying everywhere etc. So my goal changed to power up the motor on the bike. At about 10PM the bike was completely assembled... I plugged in the batteries while my dad was holding up the rear wheel, twisted the throttle a little and the motor started running, all the sprockets were running, everything worked like it should do. Wow, I'll never forget that smile on my face at that moment, it was so big! :mrgreen: That feeling I had... goosebumps... just because the rear wheel was running by motor, oh damn that was great! hehe If I would have make a test ride something would have been damaged probably, so I decided not to do that. It will take some time to make everything perfect before I make my first testride. I just want to have everything very solid and perfect. Anyway, a pic how the bike looked yesterday night:



After that I went to sleep and waked up today at 1PM lol, I'm 1 hour awake now. In a few days I go on holiday again, so it might take a few weeks till I make my first testride :(

Oh, and I urgent need a #25 14 teeth sprocket with 12mm bore. Does anyone know where I can buy one? Or is here anybody on this forum who could make it a 12mm bore? I think I will PM Recumpence, maybe he could help me?
 
Looks good .
I know how you feel when you have been working on something for a long time you just want to see some action to assure yourself it was all worth it. Was a good idea not to ride it until you have it sorted . As that's when you break things and get set back even more.

As for your sprocket and your 12mm bore. Its a 10 second job in a centre lathe. I am sure you can find some one local to do it for you. I would be happy to do it but I am on the other side of the world :(

Kurt
 
Thank you Kurt. Yup, that's exactly how I see it and I experienced that a lot of times that when I try something it breaks and it gets set back even more. Just the way you say it :mrgreen:

Well, I need to buy a new sprocket anyway... If you want to do it and got the time for it: I could buy a new sprocket and let it ship to your address and you could make a 12mm bore of it. I would pay you the shipping costs to me + of course gladly a reward for your work. Just tell me how much $ you want for it :)

Patrick
 
Byte said:
Wow, I'll never forget that smile on my face at that moment, it was so big! :mrgreen: That feeling I had... goosebumps... just because the rear wheel was running by motor, oh damn that was great! hehe If I would have make a test ride something would have been damaged probably, so I decided not to do that. It will take some time to make everything perfect before I make my first testride. I just want to have everything very solid and perfect. Anyway, a pic how the bike looked yesterday night.
Smart thinking... if you're not sure start out really slow & watch it chain/sprockets at lowest speed... then you can always go a little faster each time... to check it for each increase in speed/power.

Heya, next time take the pic so we can see your EV-GRIN TOO. :mrgreen: :twisted: :lol:
 
deVries said:
Byte said:
Wow, I'll never forget that smile on my face at that moment, it was so big! :mrgreen: That feeling I had... goosebumps... just because the rear wheel was running by motor, oh damn that was great! hehe If I would have make a test ride something would have been damaged probably, so I decided not to do that. It will take some time to make everything perfect before I make my first testride. I just want to have everything very solid and perfect. Anyway, a pic how the bike looked yesterday night.
Smart thinking... if you're not sure start out really slow & watch it chain/sprockets at lowest speed... then you can always go a little faster each time... to check it for each increase in speed/power.

Heya, next time take the pic so we can see your EV-GRIN TOO. :mrgreen: :twisted: :lol:

You want my EV-GRIN? Oh... well, here you go hahaha :mrgreen:




I sent a mail to bbman.com a few hours ago for a custom 12mm sprocket, I got a mail back including a quotation a few mins ago: $44.43 for a 12mm 14tooth sprocket. Although it's not very cheap for such a little sprocket I will buy it anyway.


Patrick
 
Hey Patrick,
I can get you one for $30 shipped to you, let me know if it is not too late.
 
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