dnmun
1 PW
no, down on the pcb. the black wire goes to the the trace that goes over to the left under that cap, so connect that black wire on the pcb to the red wire on the middle trace.
cut the wire off about 7mm above the surface so when you fold it over to that adjacent hole, it is not too long and touch something else. but the cap is farther over. there is nothing underneath to short out on the pcb.
you have to pull the insulation off the wire from the top with some pliers and the bare wires will lay on top of each other, then solder it down and you can remove the thyristor board too. cut a hole in the label where the screw is and put your screwdriver in through the hole. you have to hold the nut. save the parts for some other project.
the latching output daughter board is by the output. the wires go by it where it stands up, in your picture the second wire tie is next to it. grab it at the top and rock it back and forth until it breaks off. if you damage it however, don't blame me. but that is what we remove for the lifepo4 chargers. ping and paul shoulda told you that.
also, i am now thinking that the reason we see so many of these chargers with the npn switching transistor blowing up may be cause of the inrush current putting a huge voltage spike on the transistor when it first hits. on some of the chargers (the big high power, more expensive models) there is a separate switch to the high voltage so the charger can be left plugged in and turned off with the switch. that feature is a real bonus because it saves the damage to the npn transistors.
but anyway i think for those chargers without a switch, then install one of my ICLs inrush current limiters, where it has the thermistor spot next to the red wire on the right.
cut the wire off about 7mm above the surface so when you fold it over to that adjacent hole, it is not too long and touch something else. but the cap is farther over. there is nothing underneath to short out on the pcb.
you have to pull the insulation off the wire from the top with some pliers and the bare wires will lay on top of each other, then solder it down and you can remove the thyristor board too. cut a hole in the label where the screw is and put your screwdriver in through the hole. you have to hold the nut. save the parts for some other project.
the latching output daughter board is by the output. the wires go by it where it stands up, in your picture the second wire tie is next to it. grab it at the top and rock it back and forth until it breaks off. if you damage it however, don't blame me. but that is what we remove for the lifepo4 chargers. ping and paul shoulda told you that.
also, i am now thinking that the reason we see so many of these chargers with the npn switching transistor blowing up may be cause of the inrush current putting a huge voltage spike on the transistor when it first hits. on some of the chargers (the big high power, more expensive models) there is a separate switch to the high voltage so the charger can be left plugged in and turned off with the switch. that feature is a real bonus because it saves the damage to the npn transistors.
but anyway i think for those chargers without a switch, then install one of my ICLs inrush current limiters, where it has the thermistor spot next to the red wire on the right.
And its smart enough to know if its being fed 3 phase or plain old single phase 15A, and not attempt to draw 30A from a 15A socket 
And that is also PFC ~ so no tripped breakers if they are the right size.
