Broken display within ten days ownership

[Carlbooze]

Hello All:


December 10th, my Shengmilo M90 Mtb arrived, at my home, but by 10 days later both the PAS, throttle and walking mode had stopped functioning. It happened after setting the display one day, before going out for a ride. Then I discovered that nothing worked except the light, when I tried using any of the pas/throttle functions. Also, the front brake wouldn't work after I loosened some tension in the cable, which then caused the bike not to stop after pressing the lever

After contacting Shengmilo to detail my problem, the dealer narrowed the problem down to the display.

A part of me really wanted to pack the ebike back up and send it back, but since the dealer was ready to send me the parts I needed, and because I knew that I could just as easily encounter another problem from buying another new ebike, I declined returning it.


M90 Mtb details: 29 inch, rear drive hub motor, with 500 W 48volt 17ah battery

Brakes - Hydraulic front and rear

Display - M5 lcd


I'd like to know if anyone else has had similar or worse problems with a brand new ebike, and we're the items fixed to your satisfaction?

Also, how could this happen with a new ebike? Had this been you, would you have sent the ebike back?

Lastly, if the aforementioned problems weren't involving the display, could it then be the controller malfunctioning at such an early phase in ownership?

Thanks, I'd appreciate most any response to my rambling.

 

[amberwolf]

Not far above your first reply of the last three, I quoted the exact test for you, and even bolded the test itself.

 

[Carlbooze]

Hi:

I'm still looking for the test to which you referred, but in the meantime I saw this quote from you. I think that "the cable" is part of the sensor, and refers to at least one of the tests that I was to do. Specifically, I think that you suggested that I undo this sensor cable close to the brake lever. Is that true, that I should test to see if that's the problem, before following up with what you suggested below?


Your quote:

"If the cable is actually cutting thru the plastic of the cable from the inside, then it has *already* cut thru the metal sheath that the plastic covers, and the brake would not have operated normally. In either case, the cable housing (the entire plastic and metal tube the cable runs thru from lever to caliper) needs to be replaced."


By the way, I sent you the pics of the slightly worn screw, whose ending cable has a slight cut. That's the one that needs to be replaced, I imagine.


Thanks!

 

[Carlbooze]

Hi:

I'm still looking for the test to which you referred, but in the meantime I saw this quote from you. I think that "the cable" is part of the sensor, and refers to at least one of the tests that I was to do. Specifically, I think that you suggested that I undo this sensor cable close to the brake lever. Is that true, that I should test to see if that's the problem, before following up with what you suggested below?


Your quote:

"If the cable is actually cutting thru the plastic of the cable from the inside, then it has *already* cut thru the metal sheath that the plastic covers, and the brake would not have operated normally. In either case, the cable housing (the entire plastic and metal tube the cable runs thru from lever to caliper) needs to be replaced."


By the way, I sent you the pics of the slightly worn screw, whose ending cable has a slight cut. That's the one that needs to be replaced, I imagine.


Thanks!

 

[amberwolf]

To verify this, push the brake lever as fully to the "off" (unpulled) position as you can, and see if the system runs then. If it does, then the lack of tension on the cable is what is causing the entire problem.

If so, what were the results?

I don't know how to make that any clearer.

 

[Carlbooze]

Hi:
Test 1:
Are these the tests (below) If so, I took a hex wrench and unloosened the screw as far as I could without removing it, but it didn't change anything.


Test1:
An alternate test is to unplug the cable from the brake lever that goes to the rest of the wiring--most systems, with the cable.



Test2:

To verify this, push the brake lever as fully to the "off" (unpulled) position as you can, and see if the system runs then. If it does, then the lack of tension on the cable is what is causing the entire problem.



Test 2: The brake lever is stiff, it can't move any farther out (probably because there's no tension in the cable now - I took care of releasing the tension in the cable, by messing everything else up on the brake!)

 

[Carlbooze]

You made it clear, and I responded a few moments ago.

 

[Carlbooze]

You made it clear, and I responded a few moments ago.

 

[E-HP]

I think this thread could be streamlined if the duplicate and triplicate posts can be deleted, but only the mods or the poster can help with that:

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=49&t=118794&p=1746698#p1746698

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=49&t=118794&p=1746697#p1746697



https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=49&t=118794&p=1746692#p1746692

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=49&t=118794&p=1746691#p1746691



https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=49&t=118794&p=1746598#p1746598

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=49&t=118794&p=1746597#p1746597

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=49&t=118794&p=1746597#p1746596



https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=49&t=118794&start=50#p1746691

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=49&t=118794&start=50#p1746692



https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=49&t=118794&p=1746237#p1746237

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=49&t=118794&p=1746235#p1746235



Now these two are just silly.:

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=49&t=118794#p1745831

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=49&t=118794#p1745832


It doesn't help that the advice has to be repeated over and over too.

 

[Carlbooze]

I'm sorry but I didn't ask for the posts to be repeated. I understood what was written, I tried what was suggested and it didn't work!

 

[Carlbooze]

I'm sorry that someone finds a post explaining a problem silly. I guess that's what I get for not being a certified ebike mechanic.


So, not wanting to draw more complaints, I'll just try and figure it out myself.

I do appreciate the help that the two gentlemen attempted to give me, but unfortunately I'm just too thickheaded to understand what help was being offered!

 

[ZeroEm]

by Carlbooze » Jan 19 2023 3:02am

I'm sorry that someone finds a post explaining a problem silly. I guess that's what I get for not being a certified ebike mechanic.


So, not wanting to draw more complaints, I'll just try and figure it out myself.

I do appreciate the help that the two gentlemen attempted to give me, but unfortunately I'm just too thickheaded to understand what help was being offered!

Trouble shooting can be frustrating for everyone involved. It is a step by step process. Have been reading along and feeling a bit confused myself.
Not being able to look at the bike in person one needs pictures that show the setup sometimes they need to be close but not always. knowing the history of what has taken place from the time it was working until it stopped working is important.

Can not give better advice than amberwolf or HP. Do know what they are looking for and at times it seems you are dodging the answers and start talking about something different.

Don't think they are complaining, just wanting answers to the questions so they can move on to the next step.

First question: is the brake lever causing the controller to shut off/stay off? This has not been answered or has it.
Need to answer this one first. If it worked then what happened to it. Something or nothing and it just quit.

I'm not even sure what type of brake lever is on the bike. Looks like a hydraulic and cable pull in one lever with no electric switching. If the sensor in the brake lever then the lever need to be fully open not the trigger the cut off. Not sure what would signal the cut off, maybe the cable to the controller?

Do know you talked about cable cutting thru sheath and wrapped around forks. Can not see in the pictures of cable cutting thru or wrapped around forks. This would be a good start.

 

[Carlbooze]

Dear Zeroem:

Yes, I have to admit, your words were like a sorely-needed balm (pun intended) applied to my bruised ego. I felt hurt and rejected by the strong reactions to my thread, so I wasn't about to post anything else on here, until I found a way to fix it myself! In fact, when I saw the post from this forum, I said this to myself:

" look, whoever you are, I haven't written any more, and wasn't about to, so don't start anything with me, just leave me alone."

Now that that's out of the way, let me say that I am very, very grateful for both Amberwolf and HP's attempt to step in and help me tackle this problem. And, because bike shops are reluctant or just downright refuse to touch an outside bike, it made their help that much more important!

And, I do realize how difficult it is trying to examine a bike from verbal descriptions only. The few pictures I provided, though I thought helpful, is not like examining the problem up close!

History: Couldn't agree more on how important this is:

Briefly, I switched out Mtb handlebars for some cruiser/trekking/commuter bike handlebars. Everything worked fine, until I noticed that the bike wasn't free to make a full turn left or right because the front brake cable was almost wrapping itself around the front fork. Then I followed the cable up to the brake lever, where I saw that the twisting and turning (during my rides) of this cable caused what looked like a slight cut to form on the brake sensor cable near where it connects to the brake lever.

Since I didn't know that I could release some of this tautness of the cable sensor, at the position near the lever, I opted to try and release some of this tension of the brake cable itself, by loosening it, which I did.

So, that's two possible causes for my Throttle, PAS control and walking mode problems, where I thought that there were none!

I didn't notice any problems with the aforementioned functions until I tried to use the PAS, and saw that it didn't work.

Still not realizing the effect of my *adjustments" I Initially had thought that it was a display problem, that the display wasn't engaging the power functions on the bike. So, I started tampering with the display's settings, hoping to find a solution there. Of course, that didn't happen, but I did request and am to receive a display, a front brake, along with a controller replacement, as these things have been known to arrive faulty or defective at times for various reasons.

From my conversations with the dealer, the front brake as a probable cause still hadn't been suggested at the time, because he insured me that my problem with the throttle was due to the display being defective, and nothing else. But, as I started watching videos examining the causes for the throttle or other system components (pas;walk mode) I saw the brake being singled out as a major potential culprit in this matter, so I asked for a front brake and controller just in case.

Sorry for the length, but I wanted to give specific details in this post, that as I might not have in others.


Thanks, Zeroem,


Carlbooze

 

[ZeroEm]

by Carlbooze » Jan 19 2023 1:16pm

Dear Zeroem:

Yes, I have to admit, your words were like a sorely-needed balm (pun intended) applied to my bruised ego. I felt hurt and rejected by the strong reactions to my thread, so I wasn't about to post anything else on here, until I found a way to fix it myself! In fact, when I saw the post from this forum, I said this to myself:

" look, whoever you are, I haven't written any more, and wasn't about to, so don't start anything with me, just leave me alone."

Now that that's out of the way, let me say that I am very, very grateful for both Amberwolf and HP's attempt to step in and help me tackle this problem. And, because bike shops are reluctant or just downright refuse to touch an outside bike, it made their help that much more important!

And, I do realize how difficult it is trying to examine a bike from verbal descriptions only. The few pictures I provided, though I thought helpful, is not like examining the problem up close!

History: Couldn't agree more on how important this is:

Briefly, I switched out Mtb handlebars for some cruiser/trekking/commuter bike handlebars. Everything worked fine, until I noticed that the bike wasn't free to make a full turn left or right because the front brake cable was almost wrapping itself around the front fork. Then I followed the cable up to the brake lever, where I saw that the twisting and turning (during my rides) of this cable caused what looked like a slight cut to form on the brake sensor cable near where it connects to the brake lever.

Since I didn't know that I could release some of this tautness of the cable sensor, at the position near the lever, I opted to try and release some of this tension of the brake cable itself, by loosening it, which I did.

So, that's two possible causes for my Throttle, PAS control and walking mode problems, where I thought that there were none!

I didn't notice any problems with the aforementioned functions until I tried to use the PAS, and saw that it didn't work.

Still not realizing the effect of my *adjustments" I Initially had thought that it was a display problem, that the display wasn't engaging the power functions on the bike. So, I started tampering with the display's settings, hoping to find a solution there. Of course, that didn't happen, but I did request and am to receive a display, a front brake, along with a controller replacement, as these things have been known to arrive faulty or defective at times for various reasons.

From my conversations with the dealer, the front brake as a probable cause still hadn't been suggested at the time, because he insured me that my problem with the throttle was due to the display being defective, and nothing else. But, as I started watching videos examining the causes for the throttle or other system components (pas;walk mode) I saw the brake being singled out as a major potential culprit in this matter, so I asked for a front brake and controller just in case.

Sorry for the length, but I wanted to give specific details in this post, that as I might not have in others.


Thanks, Zeroem,


Carlbooze

Length is good, more details the better.

Bike shops and the like are not good at helping, they want to make money and push what they sell. If you lived in Austin, TX would send you to Chalo. might get an ear full but bet you would find out what is wrong or have it fixed.

Not sure if your dealer knows what is wrong, that is why your being sent all the parts to cover most of what could be wrong.

The cable being tight when turning. Sounds like the cable needs to be run differently. Putting slack in it so you can turn is not a solution. Cables have two different adjustments. One is the cable and the other is the housing.

Here is a good website to learn about bikes. Sheldon Brown's Bicycle Technical Info
Everyone at ES one time or another has used Sheldon Brown's website. bookmark it and go to the section needed.

If you are waiting on parts you have time to do a few things. First would rerun the the cable or line where it does not bind when turning. Binding will interfere with the operation of what the cable does and cause problems. One step at a time.

 

[Carlbooze]

Hi There!


I must've forgotten to add that I fixed the tightness of the cable, by moving the front brake cable, and making adjustments to the lever.

Result:


But, now the lever pulls tight, but it doesn't stop the bike.

So, now I need to readjust the lever, the caliper or rotor, and put the new cable sensor wire/cable when it comes.



I'll check out that site, thanks!

 

[ZeroEm]

by Carlbooze » Jan 20 2023 1:54am

Hi There!


I must've forgotten to add that I fixed the tightness of the cable, by moving the front brake cable, and making adjustments to the lever.

Result:


But, now the lever pulls tight, but it doesn't stop the bike.

So, now I need to readjust the lever, the caliper or rotor, and put the new cable sensor wire/cable when it comes.



I'll check out that site, thanks!

Ok, that's done. Your brake lever has to lines coming from it. Is one hydraulic and the other a cable pull, i'm not sure?

 

[Carlbooze]

Hi:


That's absolutely right, two lines coming off the lever just as you said.

And, as I see it, they probably both need something done with them in order for the other problems to disappear.

 

[Carlbooze]

Question:

Total newbie question:

Is the hydraulic line the same as the term that I have been using "brake sensor" line that's beside the lever and it's opposite end feeds into the controller?


I'm asking because from the videos I saw on other Shengmilo models, with similarly equipped hydraulic brakes, they focused on this line/cable as one of the main things to check when you lose throttle and pas functioning.


I appreciate your help, Zeroem

 

[ZeroEm]

by Carlbooze » Jan 20 2023 9:25am

Question:

Total newbie question:

Is the hydraulic line the same as the term that I have been using "brake sensor" line that's beside the lever and it's opposite end feeds into the controller?


I'm asking because from the videos I saw on other Shengmilo models, with similarly equipped hydraulic brakes, they focused on this line/cable as one of the main things to check when you lose throttle and pas functioning.


I appreciate your help, Zeroem

Hydraulic = moved by, or operated by a fluid, especially water, under pressure. This would be more of a steel braided hose that would run from the Levers to Calipers. No adjustment.

Cable brakes had a steel cable/rope inside of a housing that would from levers to calipers. It would have two adjustments, one for the cable and another for the housing.

Don't use hydraulic brakes on a bike have cable pull myself. My knowledge on the details is vague at best.

You have two lines leaving your lever, where do they go?

 

[Carlbooze]

Hi:

Answered question, just can't find it.

Anyway, one line goes from the brake lever through the bike and connects to another cable within the controller. There's one for the right and left

The other cable feeds straight to the caliper. I've added photos:

 

[ZeroEm]

by Carlbooze » Jan 20 2023 10:41am

Hi:

Answered question, just can't find it.

Anyway, one line goes from the brake lever through the bike and connects to another cable within the controller. There's one for the right and left

The other cable feeds straight to the caliper. I've added photos:

The one going to the brakes is that one hydraulic. no cable and fluid reservoir.

The cable going to the controller is the brake cut off. This cuts power to the motor.
if this cable on any of the brake levers is to tight it will keep the motor off. Check both left and right side levers for some play or not taught where it is pulling the cable.

 

[E-HP]

Hydraulic = moved by, or operated by a fluid, especially water, under pressure. This would be more of a steel braided hose that would run from the Levers to Calipers. No adjustment.

Cable brakes had a steel cable/rope inside of a housing that would from levers to calipers. It would have two adjustments, one for the cable and another for the housing.

Don't use hydraulic brakes on a bike have cable pull myself. My knowledge on the details is vague at best.

You have two lines leaving your lever, where do they go?

I see you're at the same place that I was trying to figure out the terminology being used; and why I asked for two specific photos to clear up the cable thing. A cable can be mechanical or electrical, depending on how the word is used, and even that is unclear, since in some cases it sounds mechanical, but then it's also used in the context of a brake power cable; power usually indicating electric, unless it's not. why a brake power cable would be wrapped around a fork, mechanical or electrical, who knows?

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=49&t=118794&start=25#p1746483

But no pics and a circular response. Hopefully you are able to tease out the details before your head explodes Have you figured out whether the brake cutoff is in the brake lever or some odd cable operated thing? I've been assuming in the lever.

PS. I'm far from being the most patient person in the world, but amberwolf is, so when I see him get frustrated, I know it's not just me. That, plus the numerous duplicate posts.

Hi:
Answered question, just can't find it.

 

[Carlbooze]

Okay, apparently it was the brake cutoff cable. I focused on this as a cause of my throttle PAS problems because in a video of a similar ebike, the MX02 the technicians were troubleshooting all the causes for the throttle and PAS to stop working. They went inside the controller and disconnected the right and left side cable sensors,(or brake cutoff sensors) and that's when the throttle and pas and walking mode started working again.

Photos showing the two cables, one of which extends to the caliper and the other one is the cutoff, below:

These were taken from the top and bottom of the cables.

 

[Carlbooze]

OWNERSHIP
Re: Broken display within ten days ownership
by Carlbooze » Jan 20 2023 5:31pm

Okay, apparently it was the brake cutoff cable. I focused on this as a cause of my throttle PAS problems because in a video of a similar ebike, the MX02 the technicians were troubleshooting all the causes for the throttle and PAS to stop working. They went inside the controller and disconnected the right and left side cable sensors,(or brake cutoff sensors) and that's when the throttle and pas and walking mode started working again.

Photos showing the two cables, one of which extends to the caliper and the other one is the cutoff, below:

These were taken from the top and bottom of the cables.
ATTACHMENTS
IMG_20230120_170120.jpg
IMG_20230120_170120.jpg (2.97 MiB) Not viewed yet
IMG_20230120_170106.jpg
IMG_20230120_170106.jpg (4.3 MiB) Not viewed yet
Re: Broken display within ten days ownership
by E-HP » Jan 20 2023 5:02pm

ZeroEm wrote: ↑Hydraulic = moved by, or operated by a fluid, especially water, under pressure. This would be more of a steel braided hose that would run from the Levers to Calipers. No adjustment.

Cable brakes had a steel cable/rope inside of a housing that would from levers to calipers. It would have two adjustments, one for the cable and another for the housing.

Don't use hydraulic brakes on a bike have cable pull myself. My knowledge on the details is vague at best.

You have two lines leaving your lever, where do they go?
I see you're at the same place that I was trying to figure out the terminology being used; and why I asked for two specific photos to clear up the cable thing. A cable can be mechanical or electrical, depending on how the word is used, and even that is unclear, since in some cases it sounds mechanical, but then it's also used in the context of a brake power cable; power usually indicating electric, unless it's not. why a brake power cable would be wrapped around a fork, mechanical or electrical, who knows?

viewtopic.php?f=49&t=118794&start=25#p1746483

But no pics and a circular response. Hopefully you are able to tease out the details before your head explodes Have you figured out whether the brake cutoff is in the brake lever or some odd cable operated thing? I've been assuming in the lever.

PS. I'm far from being the most patient person in the world, but amberwolf is, so when I see him get frustrated, I know it's not just me. That, plus the numerous duplicate posts.
Carlbooze wrote: ↑Hi:
Answered question, just can't find it.
Re: Broken display within ten days ownership
by ZeroEm » Jan 20 2023 4:51pm

by Carlbooze » Jan 20 2023 10:41am

Hi:

Answered question, just can't find it.

Anyway, one line goes from the brake lever through the bike and connects to another cable within the controller. There's one for the right and left

The other cable feeds straight to the caliper. I've added photos:
The one going to the brakes is that one hydraulic. no cable and fluid reservoir.

The cable going to the controller is the brake cut off. This cuts power to the motor.
if this cable on any of the brake levers is to tight it will keep the motor off. Check both left and right side levers for some play or not taught where it is pulling the cable.
Re: Broken display within ten days ownership
by Carlbooze » Jan 20 2023 4:41pm

Hi:

Answered question, just can't find it.

Anyway, one line goes from the brake lever through the bike and connects to another cable within the controller. There's one for the right and left

The other cable feeds straight to the caliper. I've added photos:
ATTACHMENTS
IMG_20230120_162712.jpg
Not sure if you can see, because two other cables connect with the light and the gear shift.
IMG_20230120_162712.jpg (3.8 MiB) Viewed 12 times
IMG_20230120_162623.jpg
IMG_20230120_162623.jpg (4.25 MiB) Viewed 12 times
IMG_20230120_162619.jpg
IMG_20230120_162619.jpg (4.25 MiB) Viewed 12 times
Re: Broken display within ten days ownership
by ZeroEm » Jan 20 2023 4:18pm

by Carlbooze » Jan 20 2023 9:25am

Question:

Total newbie question:

Is the hydraulic line the same as the term that I have been using "brake sensor" line that's beside the lever and it's opposite end feeds into the controller?


I'm asking because from the videos I saw on other Shengmilo models, with similarly equipped hydraulic brakes, they focused on this line/cable as one of the main things to check when you lose throttle and pas functioning.


I appreciate your help, Zeroem
Hydraulic = moved by, or operated by a fluid, especially water, under pressure. This would be more of a steel braided hose that would run from the Levers to Calipers. No adjustment.

Cable brakes had a steel cable/rope inside of a housing that would from levers to calipers. It would have two adjustments, one for the cable and another for the housing.

Don't use hydraulic brakes on a bike have cable pull myself. My knowledge on the details is vague at best.

You have two lines leaving your lever, where do they go?
Re: Broken display within ten days ownership
by Carlbooze » Jan 20 2023 3:25pm

Question:

Total newbie question:

Is the hydraulic line the same as the term that I have been using "brake sensor" line that's beside the lever and it's opposite end feeds into the controller?


I'm asking because from the videos I saw on other Shengmilo models, with similarly equipped hydraulic brakes, they focused on this line/cable as one of the main things to check when you lose throttle and pas functioning.


I appreciate your help, Zeroem
Re: Broken display within ten days ownership
by Carlbooze » Jan 20 2023 3:13pm

Hi:


That's absolutely right, two lines coming off the lever just as you said.

And, as I see it, they probably both need something done with them in order for the other problems to disappear.
Re: Broken display within ten days ownership
by ZeroEm » Jan 20 2023 3:06pm

by Carlbooze » Jan 20 2023 1:54am

Hi There!


I must've forgotten to add that I fixed the tightness of the cable, by moving the front brake cable, and making adjustments to the lever.

Result:


But, now the lever pulls tight, but it doesn't stop the bike.

So, now I need to readjust the lever, the caliper or rotor, and put the new cable sensor wire/cable when it comes.



I'll check out that site, thanks!
Ok, that's done. Your brake lever has to lines coming from it. Is one hydraulic and the other a cable pull, i'm not sure?
Re: Broken display within ten days ownership
by Carlbooze » Jan 20 2023 7:54am

Hi There!


I must've forgotten to add that I fixed the tightness of the cable, by moving the front brake cable, and making adjustments to the lever.

Result:


But, now the lever pulls tight, but it doesn't stop the bike.

So, now I need to readjust the lever, the caliper or rotor, and put the new cable sensor wire/cable when it comes.



I'll check out that site, thanks!
Re: Broken display within ten days ownership
by ZeroEm » Jan 20 2023 2:31am

by Carlbooze » Jan 19 2023 1:16pm

Dear Zeroem:

Yes, I have to admit, your words were like a sorely-needed balm (pun intended) applied to my bruised ego. I felt hurt and rejected by the strong reactions to my thread, so I wasn't about to post anything else on here, until I found a way to fix it myself! In fact, when I saw the post from this forum, I said this to myself:

" look, whoever you are, I haven't written any more, and wasn't about to, so don't start anything with me, just leave me alone."

Now that that's out of the way, let me say that I am very, very grateful for both Amberwolf and HP's attempt to step in and help me tackle this problem. And, because bike shops are reluctant or just downright refuse to touch an outside bike, it made their help that much more important!

And, I do realize how difficult it is trying to examine a bike from verbal descriptions only. The few pictures I provided, though I thought helpful, is not like examining the problem up close!

History: Couldn't agree more on how important this is:

Briefly, I switched out Mtb handlebars for some cruiser/trekking/commuter bike handlebars. Everything worked fine, until I noticed that the bike wasn't free to make a full turn left or right because the front brake cable was almost wrapping itself around the front fork. Then I followed the cable up to the brake lever, where I saw that the twisting and turning (during my rides) of this cable caused what looked like a slight cut to form on the brake sensor cable near where it connects to the brake lever.

Since I didn't know that I could release some of this tautness of the cable sensor, at the position near the lever, I opted to try and release some of this tension of the brake cable itself, by loosening it, which I did.

So, that's two possible causes for my Throttle, PAS control and walking mode problems, where I thought that there were none!

I didn't notice any problems with the aforementioned functions until I tried to use the PAS, and saw that it didn't work.

Still not realizing the effect of my *adjustments" I Initially had thought that it was a display problem, that the display wasn't engaging the power functions on the bike. So, I started tampering with the display's settings, hoping to find a solution there. Of course, that didn't happen, but I did request and am to receive a display, a front brake, along with a controller replacement, as these things have been known to arrive faulty or defective at times for various reasons.

From my conversations with the dealer, the front brake as a probable cause still hadn't been suggested at the time, because he insured me that my problem with the throttle was due to the display being defective, and nothing else. But, as I started watching videos examining the causes for the throttle or other system components (pas;walk mode) I saw the brake being singled out as a major potential culprit in this matter, so I asked for a front brake and controller just in case.

Sorry for the length, but I wanted to give specific details in this post, that as I might not have in others.


Thanks, Zeroem,


Carlbooze
Length is good, more details the better.

Bike shops and the like are not good at helping, they want to make money and push what they sell. If you lived in Austin, TX would send you to Chalo. might get an ear full but bet you would find out what is wrong or have it fixed.

Not sure if your dealer knows what is wrong, that is why your being sent all the parts to cover most of what could be wrong.

The cable being tight when turning. Sounds like the cable needs to be run differently. Putting slack in it so you can turn is not a solution. Cables have two different adjustments. One is the cable and the other is the housing.

Here is a good website to learn about bikes. Sheldon Brown's Bicycle Technical Info
Everyone at ES one time or another has used Sheldon Brown's website. bookmark it and go to the section needed.

If you are waiting on parts you have time to do a few things. First would rerun the the cable or line where it does not bind when turning. Binding will interfere with the operation of what the cable does and cause problems. One step at a time.
Re: Broken display within ten days ownership
by Carlbooze » Jan 19 2023 7:16pm

Dear Zeroem:

Yes, I have to admit, your words were like a sorely-needed balm (pun intended) applied to my bruised ego. I felt hurt and rejected by the strong reactions to my thread, so I wasn't about to post anything else on here, until I found a way to fix it myself! In fact, when I saw the post from this forum, I said this to myself:

" look, whoever you are, I haven't written any more, and wasn't about to, so don't start anything with me, just leave me alone."

Now that that's out of the way, let me say that I am very, very grateful for both Amberwolf and HP's attempt to step in and help me tackle this problem. And, because bike shops are reluctant or just downright refuse to touch an outside bike, it made their help that much more important!

And, I do realize how difficult it is trying to examine a bike from verbal descriptions only. The few pictures I provided, though I thought helpful, is not like examining the problem up close!

History: Couldn't agree more on how important this is:

Briefly, I switched out Mtb handlebars for some cruiser/trekking/commuter bike handlebars. Everything worked fine, until I noticed that the bike wasn't free to make a full turn left or right because the front brake cable was almost wrapping itself around the front fork. Then I followed the cable up to the brake lever, where I saw that the twisting and turning (during my rides) of this cable caused what looked like a slight cut to form on the brake sensor cable near where it connects to the brake lever.

Since I didn't know that I could release some of this tautness of the cable sensor, at the position near the lever, I opted to try and release some of this tension of the brake cable itself, by loosening it, which I did.

So, that's two possible causes for my Throttle, PAS control and walking mode problems, where I thought that there were none!

I didn't notice any problems with the aforementioned functions until I tried to use the PAS, and saw that it didn't work.

Still not realizing the effect of my *adjustments" I Initially had thought that it was a display problem, that the display wasn't engaging the power functions on the bike. So, I started tampering with the display's settings, hoping to find a solution there. Of course, that didn't happen, but I did request and am to receive a display, a front brake, along with a controller replacement, as these things have been known to arrive faulty or defective at times for various reasons.

From my conversations with the dealer, the front brake as a probable cause still hadn't been suggested at the time, because he insured me that my problem with the throttle was due to the display being defective, and nothing else. But, as I started watching videos examining the causes for the throttle or other system components (pas;walk mode) I saw the brake being singled out as a major potential culprit in this matter, so I asked for a front brake and controller just in case.

Sorry for the length, but I wanted to give specific details in this post, that as I might not have in others.


Thanks, Zeroem,


Carlbooze
Re: Broken display within ten days ownership
by ZeroEm » Jan 19 2023 5:44pm

by Carlbooze » Jan 19 2023 3:02am

I'm sorry that someone finds a post explaining a problem silly. I guess that's what I get for not being a certified ebike mechanic.


So, not wanting to draw more complaints, I'll just try and figure it out myself.

I do appreciate the help that the two gentlemen attempted to give me, but unfortunately I'm just too thickheaded to understand what help was being offered!
Trouble shooting can be frustrating for everyone involved. It is a step by step process. Have been reading along and feeling a bit confused myself.
Not being able to look at the bike in person one needs pictures that show the setup sometimes they need to be close but not always. knowing the history of what has taken place from the time it was working until it stopped working is important.

Can not give better advice than amberwolf or HP. Do know what they are looking for and at times it seems you are dodging the answers and start talking about something different.

Don't think they are complaining, just wanting answers to the questions so they can move on to the next step.

First question: is the brake lever causing the controller to shut off/stay off? This has not been answered or has it.
Need to answer this one first. If it worked then what happened to it. Something or nothing and it just quit.

I'm not even sure what type of brake lever is on the bike. Looks like a hydraulic and cable pull in one lever with no electric switching. If the sensor in the brake lever then the lever need to be fully open not the trigger the cut off. Not sure what would signal the cut off, maybe the cable to the controller?

Do know you talked about cable cutting thru sheath and wrapped around forks. Can not see in the pictures of cable cutting thru or wrapped around forks. This would be a good start.
Re: Broken display within ten days ownership
by Carlbooze » Jan 19 2023 9:02am

I'm sorry that someone finds a post explaining a problem silly. I guess that's what I get for not being a certified ebike mechanic.


So, not wanting to draw more complaints, I'll just try and figure it out myself.

I do appreciate the help that the two gentlemen attempted to give me, but unfortunately I'm just too thickheaded to understand what help was being offered!
Re: Broken display within ten days ownership
by Carlbooze » Jan 19 2023 8:53am

I'm sorry but I didn't ask for the posts to be repeated. I understood what was written, I tried what was suggested and it didn't work!
Re: Broken display within ten days ownership
by E-HP » Jan 19 2023 8:42am

I think this thread could be streamlined if the duplicate and triplicate posts can be deleted, but only the mods or the poster can help with that:

viewtopic.php?f=49&t=118794&p=1746698#p1746698

viewtopic.php?f=49&t=118794&p=1746697#p1746697



viewtopic.php?f=49&t=118794&p=1746692#p1746692

viewtopic.php?f=49&t=118794&p=1746691#p1746691



viewtopic.php?f=49&t=118794&p=1746598#p1746598

viewtopic.php?f=49&t=118794&p=1746597#p1746597

viewtopic.php?f=49&t=118794&p=1746597#p1746596



viewtopic.php?f=49&t=118794&start=50#p1746691

viewtopic.php?f=49&t=118794&start=50#p1746692



viewtopic.php?f=49&t=118794&p=1746237#p1746237

viewtopic.php?f=49&t=118794&p=1746235#p1746235



Now these two are just silly.:

viewtopic.php?f=49&t=118794#p1745831

viewtopic.php?f=49&t=118794#p1745832


It doesn't help that the advice has to be repeated over and over too.
Re: Broken display within ten days ownership
by Carlbooze » Jan 19 2023 7:45am

You made it clear, and I responded a few moments ago.
Re: Broken display within ten days ownership
by Carlbooze » Jan 19 2023 7:45am

You made it clear, and I responded a few moments ago.
Re: Broken display within ten days ownership
by Carlbooze » Jan 19 2023 7:43am

Hi:
Test 1:
Are these the tests (below) If so, I took a hex wrench and unloosened the screw as far as I could without removing it, but it didn't change anything.


Test1:
An alternate test is to unplug the cable from the brake lever that goes to the rest of the wiring--most systems, with the cable.



Test2:

To verify this, push the brake lever as fully to the "off" (unpulled) position as you can, and see if the system runs then. If it does, then the lack of tension on the cable is what is causing the entire problem.



Test 2: The brake lever is stiff, it can't move any farther out (probably because there's no tension in the cable now - I took care of releasing the tension in the cable, by messing everything else up on the brake!)
Re: Broken display within ten days ownership
by amberwolf » Jan 19 2023 7:31am

amberwolf wrote: ↑
amberwolf wrote: ↑
To verify this, push the brake lever as fully to the "off" (unpulled) position as you can, and see if the system runs then. If it does, then the lack of tension on the cable is what is causing the entire problem.
If so, what were the results?
I don't know how to make that any clearer.
Re: Broken display within ten days ownership
by Carlbooze » Jan 19 2023 7:24am

Hi:

I'm still looking for the test to which you referred, but in the meantime I saw this quote from you. I think that "the cable" is part of the sensor, and refers to at least one of the tests that I was to do. Specifically, I think that you suggested that I undo this sensor cable close to the brake lever. Is that true, that I should test to see if that's the problem, before following up with what you suggested below?


Your quote:

"If the cable is actually cutting thru the plastic of the cable from the inside, then it has *already* cut thru the metal sheath that the plastic covers, and the brake would not have operated normally. In either case, the cable housing (the entire plastic and metal tube the cable runs thru from lever to caliper) needs to be replaced."


By the way, I sent you the pics of the slightly worn screw, whose ending cable has a slight cut. That's the one that needs to be replaced, I imagine.


Thanks!
Re: Broken display within ten days ownership
by Carlbooze » Jan 19 2023 7:23am

Hi:

I'm still looking for the test to which you referred, but in the meantime I saw this quote from you. I think that "the cable" is part of the sensor, and refers to at least one of the tests that I was to do. Specifically, I think that you suggested that I undo this sensor cable close to the brake lever. Is that true, that I should test to see if that's the problem, before following up with what you suggested below?


Your quote:

"If the cable is actually cutting thru the plastic of the cable from the inside, then it has *already* cut thru the metal sheath that the plastic covers, and the brake would not have operated normally. In either case, the cable housing (the entire plastic and metal tube the cable runs thru from lever to caliper) needs to be replaced."


By the way, I sent you the pics of the slightly worn screw, whose ending cable has a slight cut. That's the one that needs to be replaced, I imagine.


Thanks!
Re: Broken display within ten days ownership
by amberwolf » Jan 19 2023 1:48am

Not far above your first reply of the last three, I quoted the exact test for you, and even bolded the test itself.
Re: Broken display within ten days ownership
by Carlbooze » Jan 18 2023 9:01am

Hi:

Yes, the bike worked beautifully after I changed the handlebars. It's just when I tried to mess with the cable that things went awry.


The nondestructive test, I believe was to push the brake lever out, I think, but I have to read the posts again.

Extending the lever had no effect whatsoever. Infact it the lever is out as far as it can go, and there's slack in the cable.

It's the sensor cable and the brake adjustment that I messed with.

But, I won't mess with anything else until I hear from you!
Re: Broken display within ten days ownership
by Carlbooze » Jan 18 2023 8:59am

Hi:

Yes, the bike worked beautifully after I changed the handlebars. It's just when I tried to mess with the cable that things went awry.


The nondestructive test, I believe was to push the brake lever out, I think, but I have to read the posts again.

Extending the lever had no effect whatsoever. Infact it the lever is out as far as it can go, and there's slack in the cable.

It's the sensor cable and the brake adjustment that I messed with.
Re: Broken display within ten days ownership
by Carlbooze » Jan 18 2023 8:45am

Hi:

Yes, the bike worked beautifully after I changed the handlebars. It's just when I tried to mess with the cable that things went awry.
Top

 

[ZeroEm]

by E-HP » Jan 20 2023 11:02am

ZeroEm wrote: ↑Jan 20 2023 10:18am
Hydraulic = moved by, or operated by a fluid, especially water, under pressure. This would be more of a steel braided hose that would run from the Levers to Calipers. No adjustment.

Cable brakes had a steel cable/rope inside of a housing that would from levers to calipers. It would have two adjustments, one for the cable and another for the housing.

Don't use hydraulic brakes on a bike have cable pull myself. My knowledge on the details is vague at best.

You have two lines leaving your lever, where do they go?

I see you're at the same place that I was trying to figure out the terminology being used; and why I asked for two specific photos to clear up the cable thing. A cable can be mechanical or electrical, depending on how the word is used, and even that is unclear, since in some cases it sounds mechanical, but then it's also used in the context of a brake power cable; power usually indicating electric, unless it's not. why a brake power cable would be wrapped around a fork, mechanical or electrical, who knows?

viewtopic.php?f=49&t=118794&start=25#p1746483

But no pics and a circular response. Hopefully you are able to tease out the details before your head explodes Have you figured out whether the brake cutoff is in the brake lever or some odd cable operated thing? I've been assuming in the lever.

PS. I'm far from being the most patient person in the world, but amberwolf is, so when I see him get frustrated, I know it's not just me. That, plus the numerous duplicate posts.

Was not involved in it and had a fresh view. It's not over yet! Carlbooze does not speak our language yet, he will. :wink:

Cable - 'a wire rope or metal chain of great tensile strength' or 'an assembly of electrical conductors insulated from each other but laid up together (as by being twisted around a central core)'

I think wire rope. went to wire rope school (mechanical) (20yrs oil field). Then went to collage and a cable became a computer cable (electrical).

Still not sure about it. Thinking the front brake is hydraulic and have lost some fluid. The fluid will need to be replaced and line have the air removed.

Thinking the motor cutoff is mechanical (This day and age just does not seem right). He has two brakes with cut offs and was thinking that the other brake could have had the cut off tripped.

 

[E-HP]

Okay, apparently it was the brake cutoff cable. I focused on this as a cause of my throttle PAS problems because in a video of a similar ebike, the MX02 the technicians were troubleshooting all the causes for the throttle and PAS to stop working. They went inside the controller and disconnected the right and left side cable sensors,(or brake cutoff sensors) and that's when the throttle and pas and walking mode started working again.

Oh, so you didn't already do that last week?? Good thing you had the video.

While you're waiting, try unplugging the connector between the brake lever switches and the controller.

Hi E-HP:

Sorry that I responded earlier to your suggestion; it was only that I responded to a different person by mistake!


Yes, as you suggested, I will do just that tomorrow morning!


Thanks

The brake cutoff is one element that can cause PAS, throttle and walking mode had stopped functioning. So, unplugging it and observing the behavior can help determine or eliminate that as an issue.