hahoka1777
1 µW
- Joined
- Sep 18, 2011
- Messages
- 1
Could somebody help me and write it down please in step by step how to build an ebike (with above mentioned capacity), from which parts and where to purchase those parts.
Thanks.
Thanks.
Build a cheap ebike which drives 35-40 mile/h for 25 miles
- Thread starter hahoka1777
- Start date
iovaykind
10 kW
I think this wins "search please" award of the year. There's tons of information lying around that you need to read through. But 35-40m/h for 25 miles is not by any means a "cheap" build.
GrayKard
10 kW
Read through this thread to get a better idea on what's possible: 20/30mph for 30 miles - what build could do this?
Gary
Gary
Hillhater
100 TW
hahoka1777 said:
here is one proven option .. :wink:
Optibike 1100 R
The pricing looks like this:
R-Series Base Model: $9995 (base model is the current 850xli)
Rohloff Hub: + $1995
48v 1100w upgrade: +$1199
48v Touring Battery: +$2399
Internal: 875wh
Touring Battery: 749wh
The top speed on flat ground is
approx 35 mph.
Sunder
10 MW
Maybe hahoka1777 is a Saudi Prince, and thinks anything under $100,000k is cheap? 
Also, remember, the engineer's mantra:
I can build it cheap;
I can build it fast; and
I can build it reliable
Pick any two.
My recommendation would be to:
1. Buy a second hand bike
2. Get one of those cheap Chinese 1kw 48v bikes
3. Clock it to 60v
4. Get one or two good rides out of it before the motor burns out
Also, remember, the engineer's mantra:
I can build it cheap;
I can build it fast; and
I can build it reliable
Pick any two.
My recommendation would be to:
1. Buy a second hand bike
2. Get one of those cheap Chinese 1kw 48v bikes
3. Clock it to 60v
4. Get one or two good rides out of it before the motor burns out
john7700
100 W
The structure if your question makes it apparent that you
haven't had an opportunity to research your question very deeply.
So, I would suggest using a technique you may be more familiar with.
Materials:
One bicycle
One ACME rocket
Roll duct tape
Lit match
Assembly and operation:
Duct tape rocket to bike
Wait until you hear "Beep,Beep"
Light fuse
Hang on
Good luck and please post your build.
J
haven't had an opportunity to research your question very deeply.
So, I would suggest using a technique you may be more familiar with.
Materials:
One bicycle
One ACME rocket
Roll duct tape
Lit match
Assembly and operation:
Duct tape rocket to bike
Wait until you hear "Beep,Beep"
Light fuse
Hang on
Good luck and please post your build.
J
Pure
10 kW
Buy stuff here http://ebikes.ca/ Can't go wrong.
Sunder
10 MW
john7700 said:
http://www.darwinawards.com/darwin/darwin1995-04.html
The Arizona Highway Patrol were mystified when they came upon a pile of smoldering wreckage embedded in the side of a cliff rising above the road at the apex of a curve. The metal debris resembled the site of an airplane crash, but it turned out to be the vaporized remains of an automobile. The make of the vehicle was unidentifiable at the scene.
The folks in the lab finally figured out what it was, and pieced together the events that led up to its demise.
It seems that a former Air Force sergeant had somehow got hold of a JATO (Jet Assisted Take-Off) unit. JATO units are solid fuel rockets used to give heavy military transport airplanes an extra push for take-off from short airfields.
Dried desert lakebeds are the location of choice for breaking the world ground vehicle speed record. The sergeant took the JATO unit into the Arizona desert and found a long, straight stretch of road. He attached the JATO unit to his car, jumped in, accelerated to a high speed, and fired off the rocket.
The facts, as best as could be determined, are as follows:
The operator was driving a 1967 Chevy Impala. He ignited the JATO unit approximately 3.9 miles from the crash site. This was established by the location of a prominently scorched and melted strip of asphalt. The vehicle quickly reached a speed of between 250 and 300 mph and continued at that speed, under full power, for an additional 20-25 seconds. The soon-to-be pilot experienced G-forces usually reserved for dog-fighting F-14 jocks under full afterburners.
The Chevy remained on the straight highway for approximately 2.6 miles (15-20 seconds) before the driver applied the brakes, completely melting them, blowing the tires, and leaving thick rubber marks on the road surface. The vehicle then became airborne for an additional 1.3 miles, impacted the cliff face at a height of 125 feet, and left a blackened crater 3 feet deep in the rock.
Most of the driver's remains were not recovered; however, small fragments of bone, teeth, and hair were extracted from the crater, and fingernail and bone shards were removed from a piece of debris believed to be a portion of the steering wheel.
Ironically a still-legible bumper sticker was found, reading
"How do you like my driving? Dial 1-800-EAT-SHIT."
Pure
10 kW
HAHA! That must have been one of Luke's relatives.
hahoka1777 said:
There sure are quite a number of people lately that want really really high speed and long range, so what I would recommend doing is searching for the several recent threads about such builds, and see what advice they got, and pick your poison out of that.
There is not going to be a step-by-step to do it, though, so after you've worked out whether you actually still want to build your (not going to be cheap) fast and long range (for that speed) bike, then you can ask specific questions about those things not answered in the other threads.
At that point, we'll be able to give you useful answers, because your quest at this point has far too many possibilities (none of them cheap).
Sunder
10 MW
Perhaps for those that need speed and range, we should be directing them to petrol (gasoline) powered bikes instead? A friend of mine had a bike that could go over 60km/h (40mph) for at least 300km (187miles) on a little 6 litre (1.5 Gallon) tank.
Heck, my 250cc Bike could do 180km/h for 300+km on an 11 litre tank
I do kind of feel sorry for some of the newbies here - I came here AFTER building my bike (and wasting lots of money on failed experiments!) but some people come here not knowing where to start - yes, they might have a little bit of a sense of entitlement, but sometimes I think we should be a little gentler in pointing them in the right direction...
... It's just so damned funny sometimes to play along though! :lol:
Edit: I mean speed and distance as separate events, not as one. So I never traveled 180km/h for 300km... What I meant was that it could reach that speed, but at it's most efficient, it could go over 300km. Unlike cars for some reason, which go from like 10km/l in city to 12km/l on freeway, I always found my bike did about 20km/l in city, and 32km/l doing 80-90km hour, in the most efficient range.
Heck, my 250cc Bike could do 180km/h for 300+km on an 11 litre tank
I do kind of feel sorry for some of the newbies here - I came here AFTER building my bike (and wasting lots of money on failed experiments!) but some people come here not knowing where to start - yes, they might have a little bit of a sense of entitlement, but sometimes I think we should be a little gentler in pointing them in the right direction...
... It's just so damned funny sometimes to play along though! :lol:
Edit: I mean speed and distance as separate events, not as one. So I never traveled 180km/h for 300km... What I meant was that it could reach that speed, but at it's most efficient, it could go over 300km. Unlike cars for some reason, which go from like 10km/l in city to 12km/l on freeway, I always found my bike did about 20km/l in city, and 32km/l doing 80-90km hour, in the most efficient range.
Mmm...I don't agree with those making fun of people trying to figure out how to make a bike that will do this, but someone that just jumps in and demands a bike designed for them and a parts list with suppliers is, I think, perhaps in for a bit of negative help/info. I personally can't imagine just jumping into a place and asking for that much work from others right off the bat, without having done any of my own research first, at all. Help figuring out what they need, yes, but not this.
I'll gladly help anyone that needs it, once they are asking for something specific enough to answer, if no one else steps in or if I have a handy answer, or they aren't getting the help they need.
I'm not going to spend the little time I have to help people doing a complete bike design from scratch with no specs from the asker, even if I was getting paid for it, though.
I personally can't imagine just jumping into a place and asking for that much work from others right off the bat, without having done any of my own research first, at all. Help figuring out what they need, yes, but not this. I'll gladly help anyone that needs it, once they are asking for something specific enough to answer, if no one else steps in or if I have a handy answer, or they aren't getting the help they need.
I'm not going to spend the little time I have to help people doing a complete bike design from scratch with no specs from the asker, even if I was getting paid for it, though.
dogman dan
1 PW
Depends on what you call cheap. $2000 should do it, but it could go to 3k easy if you want a decent bike to start with. In general, cheap is kind of thought as being more like $500-700.
The main problems are.
It's illegal in nearly every state in the USA, if not every one.
It's going to cost more than a used small motorcycle that will do it better, and legaly.
It's going to take a large and heavy battery, so about double the weight that most of us would choose to carry.
Now that the bike is that heavy, you'd start breaking spokes and bending rims. Bikes really aren't usually built for potholes at 40 mph with a lot of weight on the frame. Your weight rides different, and you can stand and use your legs to absorb shocks.
And depending on just what kind of thing you build, 90% of the "bike kit" type stuff on the market is designed for at most 1000w continuous. But 35-40 mph takes more than 1000w. So melting down motors is pretty common when riding them at that speed for longer than about 10 miles.
So what do you do to solve all those above problems?
In general, design your bike to carry no more that 700-1000 wh of battery. Then you are likely to run the battery down before the motor melts. If you need 25 miles for a two way ride, you can build a bike for 15 miles much easier, and then charge before you return home. If this ride is 25 miles one way, I really really go back to "get a gas motorcycle".
Or Slow down. 25-30 mph for 25 miles is a much much easier thing to do, and pretty much within the sweet spot for ebikes with hubmotors. You lose that danger of overheating, and can pedal which helps you blend in and not get noticed by as many cops as you ride along illegally fast. The cost is cut in half for the battery, and you can carry 25 miles of range much easier. The bike can still be able to go 40 mph, that wasn't the problem. The problem is that speed (40 mph)for all 25 miles. Build it for 15 miles at 40 mph, and you will be able to easily go 30 mph for 25.
Look in the build threads in the picture section, and you will see as many as a hundred guys who built a 40 mph ebike with 10 mile range, and a few that carry enough battery for 25 miles at 30 mph.
72v , 15-20 ah of lipo or lifepo4 battery. And a controller of 72v, with 20-40 amps. Then a typical hubmotor, 9 continent, conhis, etc. The motor and controller are reasonably priced. The battery being big enough is where cheap goes out the window.
The main problems are.
It's illegal in nearly every state in the USA, if not every one.
It's going to cost more than a used small motorcycle that will do it better, and legaly.
It's going to take a large and heavy battery, so about double the weight that most of us would choose to carry.
Now that the bike is that heavy, you'd start breaking spokes and bending rims. Bikes really aren't usually built for potholes at 40 mph with a lot of weight on the frame. Your weight rides different, and you can stand and use your legs to absorb shocks.
And depending on just what kind of thing you build, 90% of the "bike kit" type stuff on the market is designed for at most 1000w continuous. But 35-40 mph takes more than 1000w. So melting down motors is pretty common when riding them at that speed for longer than about 10 miles.
So what do you do to solve all those above problems?
In general, design your bike to carry no more that 700-1000 wh of battery. Then you are likely to run the battery down before the motor melts. If you need 25 miles for a two way ride, you can build a bike for 15 miles much easier, and then charge before you return home. If this ride is 25 miles one way, I really really go back to "get a gas motorcycle".
Or Slow down. 25-30 mph for 25 miles is a much much easier thing to do, and pretty much within the sweet spot for ebikes with hubmotors. You lose that danger of overheating, and can pedal which helps you blend in and not get noticed by as many cops as you ride along illegally fast. The cost is cut in half for the battery, and you can carry 25 miles of range much easier. The bike can still be able to go 40 mph, that wasn't the problem. The problem is that speed (40 mph)for all 25 miles. Build it for 15 miles at 40 mph, and you will be able to easily go 30 mph for 25.
Look in the build threads in the picture section, and you will see as many as a hundred guys who built a 40 mph ebike with 10 mile range, and a few that carry enough battery for 25 miles at 30 mph.
72v , 15-20 ah of lipo or lifepo4 battery. And a controller of 72v, with 20-40 amps. Then a typical hubmotor, 9 continent, conhis, etc. The motor and controller are reasonably priced. The battery being big enough is where cheap goes out the window.
dogman dan
1 PW
One more thing, there is a book out there, on how to build a fast ebike. The motor used in the book is no longer commonly avaliable, but the basics remain the same.
http://www.fastelectricbike.com/
http://www.fastelectricbike.com/
mat h physics
100 W
Pardon my skepticism, but have you ridden' a bicycle @ 40mph for any significant length of time?
Not to be critical, it's just alot more to it than jumping in w/ both feet.
As an exp motorcycle rider, I will say the stability isn't the same and I don't even have the extra weight of batteries and motor (though I do weigh 300#).
I would urge caution in setting the bar so high as a (potential) novice to the sport.
Don't get me wrong, I want more interest. Just that bad safety can cast a dim light to others who may be interested.
Read through the post a few weeks and make a more informed decision.
Thank you for joining the forum, and welcome to ES
Not to be critical, it's just alot more to it than jumping in w/ both feet.
As an exp motorcycle rider, I will say the stability isn't the same and I don't even have the extra weight of batteries and motor (though I do weigh 300#).
I would urge caution in setting the bar so high as a (potential) novice to the sport.
Don't get me wrong, I want more interest. Just that bad safety can cast a dim light to others who may be interested.
Read through the post a few weeks and make a more informed decision.
Thank you for joining the forum, and welcome to ES
A straight bicycle with no motor or battery rides well at 40mph (quality racing machine, either mtn or road). You won't stop as fast as a car or motorcycle, but you can maneuver better.
With that said, bicycles have their most value when ridden at up to 30mph. It's fine to have the power to go 35 or even 40 for a short while if you need to share a lane on a fast road. But consistently riding above 30 - you might as well get a big scooter or motorcycle. Aero drag makes a bicycle horribly inefficient at those speeds.
Why a bicycle is a great: low cost, under the radar, efficient, transportable.
A 40+mph sustained ebike loses all those characteristics. This why I've started small, underpowered, trying to keep weight low and battery small. I can go 25-30mph on 500watts with some pedal assist and aero position.
With that said, bicycles have their most value when ridden at up to 30mph. It's fine to have the power to go 35 or even 40 for a short while if you need to share a lane on a fast road. But consistently riding above 30 - you might as well get a big scooter or motorcycle. Aero drag makes a bicycle horribly inefficient at those speeds.
Why a bicycle is a great: low cost, under the radar, efficient, transportable.
A 40+mph sustained ebike loses all those characteristics. This why I've started small, underpowered, trying to keep weight low and battery small. I can go 25-30mph on 500watts with some pedal assist and aero position.
BATFINK
10 kW
- Joined
- Aug 7, 2011
- Messages
- 598
I read the forum for about 2 weeks before my wife threatened to kick my ass when i started the 30mph for 30miles thread, hehe. My own thread led me to around another 30 threads i had to read thoroughly to know what i was doing. I now know a huge amount compared to where i started and can't thank you guys enough. I will be starting my second build in the next couple of weeks when the wife is on holiday My original thread was for 30mph for 30 miles and i will happily settle on around 20 - 25mph for 30 miles but il need at least a 48volt 20/30amp ping and at lead a 500watt motor from cell_man or other. Cant wait to get started though. Good luck
My original thread was for 30mph for 30 miles and i will happily settle on around 20 - 25mph for 30 miles but il need at least a 48volt 20/30amp ping and at lead a 500watt motor from cell_man or other. Cant wait to get started though. Good luck 
wesnewell
100 GW
I've gone over 100mph on a motorcycle and over 40mph on a bicycle, and the 40mph on a bicycle is a lot scarier than 100mph on a motorcycle.
wesnewell said:
I've been on the back of a motorcycle at those speeds and for me I feel safer on a bicycle at 40mph. Of course, I grew up racing bicycles and touching handlebars in a pack of 100 riders at 40mph and drafting within inches.
What's more dangerous than 40mph on a bike?
15mph on a bike where traffic is going 30+. It's leading me against normal cycle commuting, and more towards quick ebiking at 25-32mph. I always feel so vulernable on my pedal bike while going 15 up a hill or cruising easy with traffic flying by me, especially if I am forced to take the travel lane (no shoulder or bike lane.
I still enjoy 15-20mph riding on neighborhood roads with essentially no traffic.
Sunder
10 MW
wesnewell said:
Ditto. A motorcycle has the gyroscopic force to keep you upright, and big enough tyres to ignore most bumps and sticks.
Just this morning at about 30km/h (20mph), I hit a small stick and was jolted sideways, which a motorcycle wouldn't feel as anything more than a bump.
dogman dan
1 PW
Since the same motor can be used for both, it can be good to start with a typical direct drive kit that goes 25-30 mph on 48v.
See how that goes, and what the limitations turn out to be on the bike you chose to convert. Get your torque arms sorted out. If you know you are heading towards high power, start out with 12s lipo for the battery. Get used to handling a simple 4 battery pack of lipo, then when you have the bike dialed in, invest in more lipo packs and a higher voltage controller.
That way you don't immediately wreck motors and bike frames jumping straight into 5 hp ebike motors.
See how that goes, and what the limitations turn out to be on the bike you chose to convert. Get your torque arms sorted out. If you know you are heading towards high power, start out with 12s lipo for the battery. Get used to handling a simple 4 battery pack of lipo, then when you have the bike dialed in, invest in more lipo packs and a higher voltage controller.
That way you don't immediately wreck motors and bike frames jumping straight into 5 hp ebike motors.
Sunder
10 MW
I think we've scared the OP off
The bike I just built for my brother does this.
BMX+HS35+15 packs of 5000mah 4s hardcase packs lipo wired to 20s 3p + Rear disc brake + regen + front v brakes + 12fet controller built by me + moped tires. It tops out at 85km/h (52mph) but if you lower it to 40 amp limit it tops out at about 75km(46.5mph) on the flat and will get 30-32km/wh! Total cost so far with out head light or tail light but complete otherwise with 6 fans in motor is $1200cdn!
BMX+HS35+15 packs of 5000mah 4s hardcase packs lipo wired to 20s 3p + Rear disc brake + regen + front v brakes + 12fet controller built by me + moped tires. It tops out at 85km/h (52mph) but if you lower it to 40 amp limit it tops out at about 75km(46.5mph) on the flat and will get 30-32km/wh! Total cost so far with out head light or tail light but complete otherwise with 6 fans in motor is $1200cdn!
