C Cab Hot Rod Power Advice

amberwolf said:
yes the motor will run slower...it will also have less "oomph", startup torque, etc, though lowering the gearing can change that it also changes your top speed.


a more serious issue is that the controllers have an lvc low voltage cutoff, and a 48v controller usually cuts off somewhere around 40-42v.

a 36v battery fully charged will reach just about 42v, so the controller won't operate because it thinks the battery is dead.

you'll have to check what your particular controller's lvc is, if the info you already have doesn't list it.


the other catch is, because wh (what you need for range) is v x ah, if you lower the voltage you must increase the ah.

let's say you're using 12v 35ah batteries, and need say, 3kwh to do what you want. if you're using 48v, at 70ah (two parallel sets of 48v 35ah) then that's 4 x 12v x 35ah x 2 = 3360wh, using eight batteries.

but if you're using 36v, that's 3 x 12v x 35ah x 2 = 2520wh, using six batteries. if you're using only 35ah batteries, then you have to add a whole set of three to add anything, so now it's 3 x 12v x 35ah x 3 = 3780wh, using nine batteries. the extra wh is good, give syou more range, but it takes one more battery at 36v than it did at 48v to get enough range.


(note that the actual wh you'll get out of lead acid batteries is probably half what you will out of the same thing in lithium, so if you need 3kwh to get the range you're after, you'd need twice as many batteries. meaning, if you did 36v, you'd need 18 of them. whereas at 48v you'd only need 16).


aint math fun? :(

What's fun, is that I'm 'beginning' to follow everyone's posts.
Just haven't quite grasped it enough, to come up with those numbers as fast you all.

Already checked the lvc, for the controllers that I have, and their lvc/uvc is 20 volts.

Anyway, in my hypothetical thought, lets say I forget about trying to maximize the batteries, to the motors.
Instead we try to provide for a minimum of 10 miles worth of power. I can always up grade when and if the need arises.
So, I was thinking of using 3 x 36 volt, 90 ah to maybe 125 ah
3 x 12 x 90 ah = 3240 wh. If I used the calculator right. https://convert-formula.com/ah-wh
 
Just_Ed said:
What's fun, is that I'm 'beginning' to follow everyone's posts.
Just haven't quite grasped it enough, to come up with those numbers as fast you all.
i actually hate math; it hurts my head to deal with even simple stuff...so when i have to do more than 2 plus two equals pente, i get losticated.... :oops:

so i use the intarwebs a lot for formulas and calculators and stuff. ;)

i'm much more of a "sculptor" of whatever i do (whether that is ideas, discussion, creating music, sounds, physical buidling of things, etc)...pushing existing bits around and molding them to whatever use i have for them at the moment, that's kinda how i work. i see lots of perfect ideas in my head, but i can't actually make any of them exist in reality; there's no way to get them out in their original state; they all get modified by the process.


Already checked the lvc, for the controllers that I have, and their lvc/uvc is 20 volts.
then its good for down to a 24v pack, which would be around 20-21v.

Anyway, in my hypothetical thought, I was thinking of using 3 x 36 volt, 90 ah to maybe 125 ah
3 x 36 x 90 ah = 9720 wh. If I used the calculator right. https://convert-formula.com/ah-wh
yeah, just remember that's going to be huge and heavy.

and that you don't get 9720wh out of lead, you'll really only get maybe half that. so call it 4860wh, more or less.


if you didn't like the idea of 16 12v 20ah batteries for a 48v 80ah pack....if those weigh 15lbs each, that's 16 x 15 = 240lbs. assuming they're all on one flat plane, and are around 7" tall x 7" long x 3" wide, then a 4x4 grid of them would be around 28" x 12" long and wide, and of course 7" tall.

12v 90ah batteries could weigh around 65lbs each, and be about 9" tall x 12" long, x 7" wide. i didn't see any actual 36v 90ah lead acid batteries (some lithium ones, and a couple that were basically boxes with three 12v 90ah lead-acid in series). so a 36v version would weigh about three times that, or a little under the entire weight of the original 48v80ah pack you wanted to make, at 195lbs.

but anyway, if you used the 12v90ah you'd use 9 of them, so 9 x 65lbs is 585lbs. meaning, just the battery will weigh more than your whole vehicle (presumably including your own weight).

if you put htem in a 3x3 grid, they'd be 9" tall, and 3feet long (36"), and just under 2 feet wide (21").


so i'm not sure you really want to use that much battery in there. ;)

i havne't looked up the 125ah numbers...but they'll be proportionally bigger and heavier. :(


if you went with lithium (like the leaf cells) for that, then you would use 5 modules in seires for an average voltage of about 37v, and if the ones you get are capable of only 60% of original 60ah capacity, or 36ah each, and you only need 4860wh to match the lead pack.... one set of modules is 37v x 36ah = 1332wh. 4860 / 1332 = 3.64, which has to round up to four cuz you can't cut the cells down. ;) so you acually end up with 5328wh.

so 5 modules in series, and four sets of those in parallel, for 20 modules.

if one module is 12" tall x 9" long x 2" wide, and 8lbs, then it's only 160lbs for more wh than you'd probably actually get out of the 585lb lead pack. if put in a 3-cell wide grid like in your drawings, it'd be 18 of them in a 3x6 grid, with the other two in a 7th row. it'd be 21" wide, a foot tall, but only 14" from front to back. so it's not only a third of the weight, it's half the volume of the lead.


anyway...i don't know about you, but atm i'm overwhelmed by numbers, and yogi thinks he's starving again, so time for a break. ;)
 
Thats a lot to take in.

You must have started your last reply, rather soon after I posted mine. I changed the numbers, because I thought I did it wrong.
The changed numbers are:
3 x 12 x 90 ah = 3240 wh. If I used the calculator right. https://convert-formula.com/ah-wh

I'm still having relationship problems. (No not that kind).

I simply can't get it through my head why I need ,8,9 12, 16, 20 batteries.
I only have room for 4 SLA batteries period.
I have room for the 7 module units.
Anything else would require changing the car design, which I'd rather not do.

I'm told that it's not the AH, that's important, but the WH.
Example if correct: 3 x 12v x 90ah = 3240 wh. I'm not seeing the relationship, between the 3240 wh and what the motors use. I'm sure I've read it, but it isn't seeking in the way its being presented.
So I'm still not connecting the wh, ah, between battery and motors.

I watch golf carts with just a single pack of 7 modules replace all those SLA batteries and off they go. Those golf carts are weighing in at +/- 800 pounds, without passengers.
My car weighs a measly 200 pounds at the moment. Maybe 500-600 gross (with passengers) when finished.

This has turned in to a real stumbling block for me, and nothing is getting built.
Sorry, but I'm feeling some frustration.

I'll get it, I have too !
 
Just_Ed said:
I simply can't get it through my head why I need ,8,9 12, 16, 20 batteries.
if you want a certain number of ah, *and* a certain number of volts, you need a certain number of batteries to get that. you multiply the number you need to get the volts by the number you need to get the ah.

you can't count the ones already making volts to make ah, meaning you can't series ones already in paralle, and you can't parallel ones already in series.

if you need 48v, and your batteries are 12v, you need four of them in series.

if you need 80ah, and your batteries are 20ah, you need four in parallel.

so that's four times four equals sixteen batteries.

you can do that math for any voltage or ah batteries, for any voltage or ah pack made from them.

again, it's all about the wh.

do the math that way and it's easier.

you have 12v 20ah batteries; 12v x 20ah = 240wh. you need a 48v 80ah pack. 48v x 80ah = 3840wh. 3840wh total pack / 240wh per battery equals 16 batteries.

same thing with any other voltage or ah batteries, and any other size total pack.


I only have room for 4 SLA batteries period.
no...you have room for 4 *specific sized* sla batteries. what specific size batteries do you have room for four of?

meaning, what are the dimensions of the space you have available?

each different battery is a different physical size, as i showed in my previous post(s). i have a tiny sla battery here that is 6v and about 1ah. it's about half the size of a box of kitchen matches, maybe only a third, and it probably weighs a pound or two. i also have some group 35 slas out in the shed in a powerchair, and they're probably 25-30lbs each, and i'd guess around 8" x 6" x 7"? been a while so dont[' remmber for sure.

so you must define which specific battery you have room for four of....



I'm told that it's not the AH, that's important, but the WH.
Example if correct: 3 x 12v x 90ah = 3240 wh. I'm not seeing the relationship, between the 3240 wh and what the motors use. I'm sure I've read it, but it isn't seeking in the way its being presented.
So I'm still not connecting the wh, ah, between battery and motors.
everything matters for different reasons.

the wh is important for range, which determines how much pack capacity you need, and for calculating how many batteries of what size you need to get that total capacity.

the ah, or rather the c-rate, and thus the amps (a), are important for the controllers/motors, for how much torque you get out of them (and the voltage for what the speed is), not counting any gearing you put between them and the wheels.

(c-rate just means the capacity-rate, meaning how fast you can pull out, in amps (a), the capacity (ah) a battery has. a 1c 20ah battery means it can handle 20a all the time and still give you 20ah, and not overheat, get stressed, etc. a 0.05c 20a battery means it can only handle 1a and do that...draw 20a from it and it gets stressed and it wont' give the full capacity (like lead). a 5c 20ah battery (like mine) means you can pull 100a from it and it'll be just fine.

so if you see a c-rate, that's what it means. some, like lead-acid, have such a poor c-rate that they don't even talk about it the normal way, they instead call it a 20-hour rate, or the capacity you get if you discharge them over a 20 hour timespan. :lol: it's usualy pretty low. (if you had a 100ah sla, it's 20hr rate is 5a. kinda useless for our purposes). some are "high rate" so they use a 10 hour rate...so it's only half as crappy as the regular ones. ;) (you could get 10a out of them!). of course, they'll supply more than that current...but you don't get anywhere near the rated capacity if you use them that way. :(


I watch golf carts with just a single pack of 7 modules replace all those SLA batteries and off they go. Those golf carts are weighing in at +/- 800 pounds, without passengers.
My car weighs a measly 200 pounds at the moment. Maybe 500-600 gross (with passengers) when finished.
that's part of the point of some of my previous posts...the lithium, for it's size and weight, is much more powerful than the lead.

i have a "little" 2kwh+ lithium pack that's only about 35-40lbs, 52v40ah, 14s2p, dont' remmvber the dimenions but call it a stack of 7-8 good hardback books. maybe 10 if they're not all that thick, but arent' thin. it's 28 of the eig nmc "c020" cells, like jimbob01 is selling in the for sale section (but mine came to me old and used, unlike his). it gets my poor-aerodynamics trike that weighs 500lbs+ with me on it (600 with a good load in the back, more with one of the dogs instead) around 30 miles of range, in stop/start traffic, at 20mph, with full-throttle starts up to cruising speed, around 3500w or so for those few seconds, and around 800-1000w or so while at 20mph.

even my half-sized pack, just 14s1p, 52v20ah, will still run the trike normally...it just doesn't get as much range (about half).


if i had to do this with lead like i did way back on early crazybike2 versions, i'd have around a couple hundred pounds of it, filling the cargo area under the seat completely (instead of about a third of it), and overflowing into the dog/cargo area in back, and breaking stuff on the trike, and slowing my accleration down (or requiring bigger controllers to get the same accleration back).

so, yeah, not a fan of lead. it has it's uses, like the powerchair that needs the ballast anyway to keep it from tipping over....but i wouldn't want to have to use it on other bikes, trikes, or vehicles. not now that iv'e experienced better solutions. ;)


since you don't plan on using the trike very often, like twice a year or whatever it was, the lead seems like a cheaper option...but you must keep ti charged all the time or it will be damaged or destroyed by the time you go to use it again. buying a whole new battery pack every time you want to use the vehicle is much more expensive.

i have a stack of spare eig cells like i use in my packs above, that have been sitting at the same storage charge for i guess it's been 2 or 3 years, on the battery bench, waiting for me to need them. they haven't changed voltage (or state of charge) in all that time. (i don't use a bms on any of the eig cell packs; haven't needed to...so theres' nothing to drain them except self-discharge, which they dont' appear to have much of).

but...the powerchair lead batteries died of self-discharge permanently within half a year of me parking it in the shed and disconnecting them (so the chair couldn't drain them), and then forgetting to go out and check and recharge it all the time. none of them take a charge anymore, and wont' even light up a car turn signal bulb. :(

so...out of pocket cost at time of purchase isn't the whole story.
 
Just_Ed said:
The changed numbers are:
3 x 12 x 90 ah = 3240 wh. If I used the calculator right. https://convert-formula.com/ah-wh
ok, well, to redo that comparison of lead vs leaf packs:

first, you won't get 3240wh from the lead pack, simply because they're not rated at the currents youre going to use them at, they're rated like i noted above, for discharge over a 20 hour period, to get that capacity. you'll only get about half of it at the rates ev's use them at. so about 1620wh. if your wh/mile usage ends up being like i guesstimated previously, you might get 15 miles from them at the 25mph you were after.

so if you want 30 miles, you need twice that many batteries.

but...we'll go with just the one set of three for the example below.


12v 90ah sla batteries could weigh around 65lbs each, and be about 9" tall x 12" long, x 7" wide.
3 x 12v x 90ah = 3240wh (really 1620wh)
3 of those for 36v 90ah will be around 195lbs.
in a 3x1 grid, they'd be 9" tall, and 1foot long, and just under 2 feet wide (21"). (2268 cubic inches)


the leaf module is 12" tall x 9" long x 2" wide, and 8lbs
assuming the ones you get are capable of only 60% of original 60ah capacity, or 36ah each, it takes three sets of them to make the same 90ah (more, actually, at 108ah),
then you would use 5 modules in seires for an average voltage of about 37v,
one set of modules is 37v x 36ah = 1332wh.
three sets is 3 x 37v x 36ah = 3996wh.
3 sets of 5 modules at 8lbs each is 120lbs.
15 of them in a 3x5 grid; 27" wide, a foot tall, 10" from front to back. (3240 cubic inches)

so the leaf modules get you more wh (more than twice, really, but even just "on paper" still around 10%+ more) for less weight (though half again more volume) than the lead.

if you were to use only enough leaf cells to equal the actual wh you'd really get out of the lead, then you only need two sets, and it's *still* going to give you a lot more wh than the lead would, for much less weight and around the same volume.

if you could get better-performing leaf cells (or even "new" ones, like out of a leaf that crashed on it's way off the dealer parking lot :lol:), then their capacity would be higher (potentially by a lot) and you'd only need one set of modules to equal what you'd actually get out of the lead pack, and only two to beat even what the lead pack is rated at a 20-hour rate for.
 
Amberwolf, I'm letting it all sink in.

The large number of proposed batteries has me still wondering. But lets, let that simmer for awhile.

Because I haven't had my questions answered from TechDirect, I went to another site that sells the li modules.

Maybe the specs they show are of some use. https://batteryhookup.com/products/nissan-leaf-battery-module-gen-1

Oh, and the SLA batteries at my local Battery Mart are 12v x 90ah.
Weight: 44 lbs. (176 lbs/4)
Size: 10" L x 6.5 W x 10 " H
Cost: $429.83 OTD
 
I got a reply from TechDirect.

TechDirect says;
They say that with the pack (in link) I will get 7-10 miles.
https://www.techdirectclub.com/48-volts-nissan-leaf-battery-g2-lithium-ion-3-5-kwh-500-wh-per-module-w-option-and-1-bms-lot-of-7/
This amount should be doable, but of course it would depend on real world use.

BatteryHookUp Specs
According to specs @ 'BatteryHookUp', the continuous discharge is 240A.
https://batteryhookup.com/products/nissan-leaf-battery-module-gen-1
Am I right in thinking this is good, or does it mean a quicker loss of capacity? Thus less range.

NOMINAL VOLTAGE : 7.7V
FULLY CHARGED: 8.4V
FULLY DISCHARGED: 5.6V
AMP HOUR: 64
WATT HOUR 500WH
CONTINUOUS DISCHARGE: 240A
PEAK DISCHARGE: 540A
 
They are probably pretty close on their estimate.

The high continuous discharge current is a good thing. You just need it to be more than what your motors will take, but higher is better. Your twin motors will max out at under 100A.

You could get a 7 module pack and see how it goes. For sure it will run the car, just for how far we don't know. If you find you need more range, you can easily add a second set of 7 and double the range.
 
Bench higher, batteries underneath.jpg


As there seems head room enough why not place your seat/bench higher so you can put the batteries underneath?
Especially with Nissan Leaf modules laid flat you can put way more Ah/Wh of capacity under the seat and have long trips together :wink:
 
SlowCo said:



As there seems head room enough why not place your seat/bench higher so you can put the batteries underneath?
Especially with Nissan Leaf modules laid flat you can put way more Ah/Wh of capacity under the seat and have long trips together :wink:

Here's how important this is to 'getting it right'. Just before Super Bowl kickoff, I'm out in my shop looking at this very subject. When I should have been kicked back in my easy chair, beverage in hand, snacks at the ready.

However, this is what I found.

If I were to get the 7 modules and keep them together as one pack,https://www.techdirectclub.com/48-volt-nissan-leaf-lithium-ion-mini-power-pack-battery-for-golf-cart-3-5-kwh-g1-with-charger/ , then just where can I place them. I did look again at the seat height issue, and it is definitely an option. But the 'model' in the picture isn't sitting on any seat cushioning, which will add +/- 4 ". Also what it doesn't show in the picture is, the seat rails, and the frame rails converge at the rear, so the space gets smaller, the further back you go. ( 4" to 0" )

Also looked at placing the pack just behind the front cowling, where there is just enough room, between the frame rails. However, this would require designing a suitable looking center console to cover them., which is doable. But it would also mean longer cables, which isn't desirable.

Another option is to move the seat forward about 6-8 inches, thus allowing room behind them. Another doable option.

Here's another option...I'll build a trailer.......NAH !
I know, :idea: I will just bungee cord them over the back .....Yea, that sounds like the thing to do.

So the bottom line is. Where I thought there wasn't room, with a bit of thought to the subject, there is.

fechter said:
They are probably pretty close on their estimate.

The high continuous discharge current is a good thing. You just need it to be more than what your motors will take, but higher is better. Your twin motors will max out at under 100A.

You could get a 7 module pack and see how it goes. For sure it will run the car, just for how far we don't know. If you find you need more range, you can easily add a second set of 7 and double the range.

Thanks fetcher.
So size does matter...more is better.

As expressed in an earlier post, it seems like for every upper, there comes a downer.

Upper
The stated CDC of the BatteryHookUp modules is 240A...https://batteryhookup.com/products/nissan-leaf-battery-module-gen-1

Downer
Found a stated CDC for the TechDirect MINI modules is 60A...https://www.techdirectclub.com/48-volt-nissan-leaf-lithium-ion-mini-power-pack-battery-for-golf-cart-3-5-kwh-g1-with-charger/

Looking at another pack option, https://www.techdirectclub.com/solar-rv-powerwall-nissan-48-volt-battery-g1-lithium-ion-3-5-kwh-66-amh-w-option-and-1-bms-lot-of-7/ the "Maximum Discharge Current", is stated this way;

Maximum continuous discharge current

Each cell voltage should be less than 4.15V per cell
Each cell voltage should be more that 2.5V per cell

My interpretation. I think this means: 4 cells per module x 7 modules = 28 cells x 4.15v = 116.2A

With the aforementioned difference in stated CDC, So what does a man believe?

Anyway

I'm presently interested in this package. https://www.techdirectclub.com/48-volt-nissan-leaf-lithium-ion-mini-power-pack-battery-for-golf-cart-3-5-kwh-g1-with-charger/
After coupon discount I'm looking at $694.60

I knew this part of the build was going to be costly. But now that it is here, it's a bit unnerving.
 
Just_Ed said:
Looking at another pack option, https://www.techdirectclub.com/solar-rv-powerwall-nissan-48-volt-battery-g1-lithium-ion-3-5-kwh-66-amh-w-option-and-1-bms-lot-of-7/ the "Maximum Discharge Current", is stated this way;

Maximum continuous discharge current

Each cell voltage should be less than 4.15V per cell
Each cell voltage should be more that 2.5V per cell

My interpretation. I think this means: 4 cells per module x 7 modules = 28 cells x 4.15v = 116.2A

With the aforementioned difference in stated CDC, So what does a man believe?
Ed,..
You are not reading the data correctly , and your interpretation is wrong.
You cannot calculate discharge amps by adding cell voltages. ! :shock:
There are 7 modules at 8 volts each ( 56v max, 48v nominal)
Each module is 4 cells, 2 parallel, 2 series..but. You can ignor those details, just consider them 7 , 8 volt batteries.
The CDC is listed at 153 A at 2.5”C” ( 2.5 times the capacity rating )..but they can discharge at higher rates.
 
Hillhater said:
Just_Ed said:
Looking at another pack option, https://www.techdirectclub.com/solar-rv-powerwall-nissan-48-volt-battery-g1-lithium-ion-3-5-kwh-66-amh-w-option-and-1-bms-lot-of-7/ the "Maximum Discharge Current", is stated this way;

Maximum continuous discharge current

Each cell voltage should be less than 4.15V per cell
Each cell voltage should be more that 2.5V per cell

My interpretation. I think this means: 4 cells per module x 7 modules = 28 cells x 4.15v = 116.2A

With the aforementioned difference in stated CDC, So what does a man believe?
Ed,..
You are not reading the data correctly , and your interpretation is wrong.
You cannot calculate discharge amps by adding cell voltages. ! :shock:
There are 7 modules at 8 volts each ( 56v max, 48v nominal)
Each module is 4 cells, 2 parallel, 2 series..but. You can ignor those details, just consider them 7 , 8 volt batteries.
The CDC is listed at 153 A at 2.5”C” ( 2.5 times the capacity rating )..but they can discharge at higher rates.

WRONG ! YOU SAY! OH ! hillhater, 'wrong is such a harsh word'. :(
Maybe something a little softer. Like slightly 'mistaken', or your interpretation is 'incorrect'. :p
But I'm old school sir, so I can take it. :)

When I made those mathematical equations, I thought they might possibly be, ...'incorrect'. :?

The CDC is listed at 153 A at 2.5”C” ( 2.5 times the capacity rating )..but they can discharge at higher rates.

153A...Listed where? OK, I found it....but I didn't/don't know how to interpret those numbers.
So help me to further misunderstand, er, I mean understand, why/how you arrived at 153 A.
In your example, is 2.5C or 153A, good or bad?
I ask because some of the comments I read online, (outside of here) contradict themselves, and between sources.
 
Ed, sorry for the direct wording..but im too old to beat around the bush with nice words ! :lol:
The 153 A is a figure quoted by the vendor.
It is 2.5 times the capacity (66ah) and represents the continuous current that battery can discharge at for 24 minutes ( 1hr /2.5) , before the cell voltage drops below it minimum spec (2.5v)
So 2.5”C” is 153 A x 1hr/2.5 = 24 mins run time
2”C” is 120 A x 1hr/2. = 30 mins rin time
That is the theory which The vendor should have tested to prove the condition of the cells, but their numbers seem a little rounded...and for some reason above they quote the max discharge at 130A ??
 
Thank you for your help

Much of the science of all this, is still alluding my old brain cells. (Yeah, I'm a 'senior' as well)
If wasn't for you and the others, that are contributing, to this project, I would still be in total darkness.
But now things are just a little grey.

Example: Are you saying that if I spend $700.00 for battery and charger, that my car will only last 24 minutes and it needs recharging ?

More down to earth scientific analysis of what I need. I checked the area where I live, for parade routes.
There are three main towns, which hold annual parades. I wanted to see what the length of their parade routes was.
The shortest being +/- 2000 feet. The longest being 1.70 miles. Doubled if driving back.

TechDirect stated that their G2 modules, should give me 7 -10 miles. (I'm assuming that is with constant throttle on)
So at 7-10 miles (+/-) I should not be embarrassed, by running out of 'fuel' mid route.
If that is true, give or take, I can live with that...for now.
 
The range estimates are based on running at top speed. Your range will be greatly increased at lower speeds since much less power is needed. But the estimates are just pretty crude estimates since we don't really know the wind resistance and rolling resistance of the car. It will be more than a bicycle and less than a full sized car.
 
Just_Ed said:
Example: Are you saying that if I spend $700.00 for battery and charger, that my car will only last 24 minutes and it needs recharging ?
if it takes that specific amount of current the entire time, then yes. but it won't. ;)


at present we don't know how much power or current your car will take to move at any particular speed. you have to test that, to find out. the coastdown and other simple aero tests previously suggested would help you make a guesstimate of that.

(a better guesstimate than basing your power consumption on mine ;) ).


TechDirect stated that their G2 modules, should give me 7 -10 miles. (I'm assuming that is with constant throttle on)
that range entirely and completely depends on exactly how much power your specific car takes to go a specific speed on a specific slope, etc.

at a guess, it's probably close to what i'd guesstimate for your power consumption, but you might use less (or more), so the range would be more (or less).

but...it's all guesses, without knowing your actual power consumption (which you wont' *really* know until you actually drive the car under power, in the places / conditions / speeds you're going to use it in, of course). :) all the math in the world doesn't guarantee things will actually end up like you expect. ;)
 
OK Then

I've had a tremendous amount of help. Not all of it has stuck, as you well know.
But through this process I have learned a lot, and some things need to be learned further.

To fechter, amberwolf, hillhater, Slowco, ZeroEm, I am so grateful to each one of you, for your advice, and attempt to educate me. When I signed on to Endless Sphere, I had no idea, what to expect. As with the great members over on AtomicZombie, I have found some really great and caring people here.
A BIG thank you, to each one of you.

Decision Time ? Maybe
I believe I am at a point that is being alluded to now. That is, it may be time to make a decision as to which method I will use. And let the result of that decision, help to decide, what may come in the future.

I'm going to sleep on it, and work up some pros and cons.
 
if it helps...iv'e been building and designing and rebuildng and redesigning the sb cruiser trike for five years now. :lol:

i figure i'm probably halfway to something like a final version of it. ;) and...then i'll start the next one. :lol:

(really, i'll probably start a new one sooner than that, before i really "finish" this one, and if lucky i'll have two working at the same time (haha, sure...right :roll: ).
 
amberwolf said:
if it helps...iv'e been building and designing and rebuildng and redesigning the sb cruiser trike for five years now. :lol:

i figure i'm probably halfway to something like a final version of it. ;) and...then i'll start the next one. :lol:

(really, i'll probably start a new one sooner than that, before i really "finish" this one, and if lucky i'll have two working at the same time (haha, sure...right :roll: ).

Yeah, I think it helps. Can't hurt :lol:

I'm waiting for TechDirect to respond back with a clarification of this offering;
https://www.techdirectclub.com/48-volt-nissan-leaf-lithium-ion-mini-power-pack-battery-3-5-kwh-66ah-g2/

The description states:
48 volt Nissan Leaf Lithium ion Mini Power Pack Battery for golf cart 3.5 kwh G2 With Delta charger
So I've asked them, does it come with a battery charger or not?
I'm waiting on their response to my question.

They are naturally steering me to the $930.00 version. The resale value of this just went up!

Anyway I have another mind bender, for those that would take on the task.

Hypothetical set up.

I have a pack of 7 modules, with a total of 66Ah. If I add a second pack of 7 modules, in parallel, I get 132 Ah, Right?
I'm back to the series parallel thing again.

Here's the question

Is it possible to connect a set of 7, with a set of 2? Thus increasing the Ah, but not actually doubling it?

Is that even possible using SLA batteries?
 
Is it possible to connect a set of 7, with a set of 2? Thus increasing the Ah, but not actually doubling it?

Is that even possible using SLA batteries?....
Put simply, NO !
However you could connect the extra 2 modules in SERIES with the other 7, making a 64 volt pack of 66Ah capacity.
Remember pack capacity is measured in Whrs , not Ahrs !
What that means is you increase the pack capacity in Watthrs from 3500Whr for the 48v pack , to 4,220Whr for the 64 volt pack.
If your controllers can handle 64v, and assuming you keep the same performance limits ( 1800W per motor), you should expect 20% more “run time”.
 
Hillhater said:
Is it possible to connect a set of 7, with a set of 2? Thus increasing the Ah, but not actually doubling it?

Is that even possible using SLA batteries?....
Put simply, NO !
However you could connect the extra 2 modules in SERIES with the other 7, making a 64 volt pack of 66Ah capacity.
Remember pack capacity is measured in Whrs , not Ahrs !
What that means is you increase the pack capacity in Watthrs from 3500Whr for the 48v pack , to 4,220Whr for the 64 volt pack.
If your controllers can handle 64v, and assuming you keep the same performance limits ( 1800W per motor), you should expect 20% more “run time”.

Ok good to know.

I'll check my controllers again.

This all I have for controller info.
Controller Spec.:

Rated voltage: DC 48v
Current limit: 32A
Rated power: 1800w
Matching motor: DC Brushless motor
Under Voltage Protection: 42V

In either case I just laid out the money for the lithium batteries. Excuse me while I go heave up !
 
Without more detail of the controllers , it seems you would be taking a risk with that 64 volt pack ( notr , when fully charged to 4.15v/cell, it would be a 72 volt pack !)
But, you can get new 72v rated controllers for less than $50 each if you really wanted to go with a higher voltage /capacity pack. :wink:
 
Hillhater said:
Without more detail of the controllers , it seems you would be taking a risk with that 64 volt pack ( notr , when fully charged to 4.15v/cell, it would be a 72 volt pack !)
But, you can get new 72v rated controllers for less than $50 each if you really wanted to go with a higher voltage /capacity pack. :wink:

Thanks, no time to be taking anymore risks. So I'm going to resist the urge to dig deeper, into this.
What with all that has transpired over the recent past, I/we need a breather.

My battery pack will be here soon, as they are only, +/- 75 miles from me.
The temperature has turned frigid,( 24 F ). so not much happening, outside of the warm house.

Giving me time to look over all the material everyone has given me, and maybe I can add some more brain cells.
 
Well I have made my decision, and placed my order.

Here's what I got.
https://www.techdirectclub.com/48-volt-nissan-leaf-lithium-ion-mini-power-pack-battery-3-5-kwh-66ah-g2/

NOT for that price though.
After a bit of negotiating, I was able to get that package for $735. OTD, free shipping.

After some thought about the pro's and con's, the lithium won out. The cost is way higher than I wanted to pay,
but the size, 70 % capacity, pre-built, integrated BMS, 60 % the weight of SLA, including a $125.00 battery charger, just seemed right.

Now the practical testing can begin. That is after the mounting of the motors, jackshafts, and finding a place to secure the battery pack.

Another major milestone for the evolution of the StreetRunner.
 
A point of concern has been raised.

Be aware that the specs gives a maximum current discharge of 60A.
I hope that means maximum constant current discharge.
Becouse if you put the pedal down on a long uphill you draw more than that.

It's a bit late now, but exactly what does that mean, in regards to the components I've gathered/ordered ?
 
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