Can someone help me identify this currie electro drive motor? i want its specs

[CONSIDERABLE SHOUTING]

If each of the 3 battery offer 24 volt and i place them in parallele, they should add up logically.
i dont know what is meant by if their bms are# not co-exist and be friendly#.
if they are not friendly would the motor still work and use them, what would be the consequences?

The only cheap LiFePO4 pack I can think of that's close to what you want, is either Two of these from Battery Clearing House (Which may not work here because they don't have the discharge current listed) or 7 of these prismatic Lishens from Battery Hookup, would would be simple but frankly, utterly massive and far too much power for what you're doing. If you can't spot weld and make you're own pack, I'd go to lithium-ion instead to just make things easy on yourself- since you've got all of 5KMs to ride, you really don't need to worry about capacity at all and 24 volts is a very common battery size.

BMS'es sometimes will try to draw more power than others, and if you've got multiple packs tied together with different use cases (and thus lifespans) may try to discharge and "fight" each other too much in balancing all the cells. Few can also "sense" when the others are intentionally dropping a cells voltage, so you could potentially have a scenario where a BMS is dropping one cell's voltage and it trips the others into thinking it's a weak cell, so they begin dropping others in response to try and right the problem. End result would be dropping voltage too much.

 

[sharinginfos]

The only cheap LiFePO4 pack I can think of that's close to what you want, is either Two of these from Battery Clearing House (Which may not work here because they don't have the discharge current listed) or 7 of these prismatic Lishens from Battery Hookup, would would be simple but frankly, utterly massive and far too much power for what you're doing. If you can't spot weld and make you're own pack, I'd go to lithium-ion instead to just make things easy on yourself- since you've got all of 5KMs to ride, you really don't need to worry about capacity at all and 24 volts is a very common battery size.

BMS'es sometimes will try to draw more power than others, and if you've got multiple packs tied together with different use cases (and thus lifespans) may try to discharge and "fight" each other too much in balancing all the cells. Few can also "sense" when the others are intentionally dropping a cells voltage, so you could potentially have a scenario where a BMS is dropping one cell's voltage and it trips the others into thinking it's a weak cell, so they begin dropping others in response to try and right the problem. End result would be dropping voltage too much.

hi Considerable shouting the pack you linked from BCH looks interesting. couple things come to my mind:

- since BHC pack have a bms build inside, how is this situation different from the k2 batteries that also have a bms inside. I say that because if you read the reply above some say that if their bms is not friendly that may cause problem.

-when you write that if i cant spot weld going li ion would make it easy. I beleive that both liion and life po4 need spot welding to be assembled, in what way do you mean it would be a easier route?
thanks

 

[CONSIDERABLE SHOUTING]

hi Considerable shouting the pack you linked from BCH looks interesting. couple things come to my mind:

- since BHC pack have a bms build inside, how is this situation different from the k2 batteries that also have a bms inside. I say that because if you read the reply above some say that if their bms is not friendly that may cause problem.

-when you write that if i cant spot weld going li ion would make it easy. I beleive that both liion and life po4 need spot welding to be assembled, in what way do you mean it would be a easier route?
thanks

1. It's no different- the BMS may or may not act in a way you want. Now the GOOD news is, you'd probably take them off individually to charge so it might not matter- but they have no display about their discharge amps, so they might not even be usable at all.
2. Those prismatics like the Lishen cells have threaded terminals on top that allow you to bolt the battery together using like a thin copper plate, no welding required.

I checked 18650 Battery Store if they had any iron phosphates like you want, and they do not. Still a good site for you, lots of people here have relied on them for cells.

 

[sharinginfos]

1. It's no different- the BMS may or may not act in a way you want.Now the GOOD news is, you'd probably take them off individually to charge so it might not matter - but they have no display about their discharge amps, so they might not even be usable at all.
2. Those prismatics like the Lishen cells have threaded terminals on top that allow you to bolt the battery together using like a thin copper plate, no welding required.

I checked 18650 Battery Store if they had any iron phosphates like you want, and they do not. Still a good site for you, lots of people here have relied on them for cells.

Hi thanks for informing me on choices. i encline for the river pack atm since it is not a big investesment.

1when you say #Now the GOOD news is, you'd probably take them off individually to charge# are you talking about the batteries taken of the bike or the bms they come with taken off them?

2For my understanding, are you saying that as long as i charge them separatly, even if they have a non friendly to coexist as they say BMS, it would not be a problem at the time of using them in parallel? like i could use them as is but would have to charge the 2 battery separetly?

3not sure about lishen , just so i know my choices, if i would buy them, use them on 24 v, could i eventually dissemble them to use them in a 48v of a future project completing the setup with newer or older prismatic with more or less amps .(being aware that the less capacity would be the limiting factor?) or they would be condemn not to reassemble in a futur setup.

 

[CONSIDERABLE SHOUTING]

Hi thanks for informing me on choices. i encline for the river pack atm since it is not a big investesment.

1when you say #Now the GOOD news is, you'd probably take them off individually to charge# are you talking about the batteries taken of the bike or the bms they come with taken off them?

2For my understanding, are you saying that as long as i charge them separatly, even if they have a non friendly to coexist as they say BMS, it would not be a problem at the time of using them in parallel? like i could use them as is but would have to charge the 2 battery separetly?

3not sure about lishen , just so i know my choices, if i would buy them, use them on 24 v, could i eventually dissemble them to use them in a 48v of a future project completing the setup with newer or older prismatic with more or less amps .(being aware that the less capacity would be the limiting factor?) or they would be condemn not to reassemble in a futur setup.

1. Take off the batteries and charge them individually.

2. It would likely be just fine. There are people here whom have used multiple battery packs with their own, individual BMSes before for whatever reason- of course they were using the same cells and same BMSes.

3. Don't buy them, they're not only huge but they're completely overblown for what you're wanting to build. They're like 170 amps each, you'd have a battery with a range of hundreds of kilometers and a discharge potential that little motor could NEVER use.
I think you're best off looking for a recycled hoverboard, rental E-scooter or other Lithium-ion pack you can snag for cheap that has the discharge capacity to run this.

 

[calab]

How on earth would you securely mount those heavy, bulky Lifepo4's and have the bicycle balanced to ride?

 

[CONSIDERABLE SHOUTING]

How on earth would you securely mount those heavy, bulky Lifepo4's and have the bicycle balanced to ride?

It's cool, hopefully he won't- he's doing the exact same darn thing when I started in this hobby, being completely overwhelmed and clutching to something he learns the most about since that's something he can "control". No shame on anyone, this shit is complex

 

[calab]

Hobbyists like me and you and others all do the exact same thing, in one form or another.

You find out what you like, after finding out what you do not like first.

 

[notdeadyet]

I would not get overly attached to the Currie Motor as they tended to have a short life. The original Kollmorgen was a 400W that was replaced by a 450W version called the USPD which had a very short life and was replaced by a MAC 450W (Black case creamed in Heat sink Fins). Guts = 5 small brass planetary gears. You could cook breakfast on the motor. I used to freeze a wet bar towel at night and wrap it around the motor and watch the steam. The Motor will last longer if you remove the metal enclosure. All 3 Currie Versions were 24V by I think 20A and Yes they will take you up a hill if you pedal assist and carry a frozen bar towel. Malcolm Currie was paying $4.56 per Kollmorgen Motor and then $4.84 for the MAC version. I cannot find a pic anywhere but the First Currie Motor set up used side by side 250W Motors circa 1999. Final year of Currie a new breakaway Biz opened using the same Currie Mounting Deck and a new Larger Silver MAC creamed in heat sink fins at 750W at 48V but then the Recession arrived and that killed off the breakaway company.
PS the Motor you have was made 21 years ago. In a 26 inch rear wheel you're looking at 18 MPH at 24V on the flats if you are 175 lbs, 100 PSI tire pressure and no headwinds. The stock Battery pack was 24V X 12Ah SLA Bricks with the 40A Blade ATC Fuse. I was Currie's only Canadian Distributor and only sold the motor kits to Americans...which confused the hell out of me.

 

[sharinginfos]

I would not get overly attached to the Currie Motor as they tended to have a short life. The original Kollmorgen was a 400W that was replaced by a 450W version called the USPD which had a very short life and was replaced by a MAC 450W (Black case creamed in Heat sink Fins). Guts = 5 small brass planetary gears. You could cook breakfast on the motor. I used to freeze a wet bar towel at night and wrap it around the motor and watch the steam. The Motor will last longer if you remove the metal enclosure.

Hi notdead yet. when you say the the metal enclosure can be removed, would that mean running with exposed copper wire? I think some moter get problems when water comes in, would taking the metal enclosure when it rains bring problems?

Also i read on the net that it is possible to change the inside of the motor for upgrade would you happen to know wich parts would be de the best for my application (going up hill no need for high speed)?

Do you know any other ways to improve climgbing ability? maybe the disk receiving the chain of the motor can be found in larg diameter ?idk

thanks