Hi guys. Working my way through conversation kit and the search function. The levers that came with the kit have switch sensors and I want to change the to the magnet sensors. Is it a case of wiring in the new cable and both would work in the same way?
Changing switch brake levers to magnetic hydraulic sensors
- Thread starter Ebikeotis
- Start date
what specificaly do you mean by 'magnet" and "switch"?
generally there are two kinds of sensor on ebrake levers. one is mechanical, a two wire switch. the other is electronic, a three wire hall sensor that acts like a switch but requires 5v power to operate.
generally there are two kinds of sensor on ebrake levers. one is mechanical, a two wire switch. the other is electronic, a three wire hall sensor that acts like a switch but requires 5v power to operate.
This is the switch which came with my kit. Thing is I have hydraulic levers which I could modify the switch but it might look a bit bulky. Or I have seen the magnet sensor style which look better. If I wanted to can these be retrofitted?
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dogman dan
1 PW
FWIW, we needed cut off switches on brake levers when bikes ran on brushed motors. Brushed controllers had a way of failing that resulted in full throttle to the motor.
Brushless, I suppose its possible to fail this way, but I never had it happen, nor heard of it. You could have a pair of wires to the throttle get cut, and short, resulting in a signal to full throttle the bike, but really,,, its not going to happen. Or a throttle could jam on in a crash I suppose. But again, about as rare as it happens on a motorcycle, which has a handlebar mounted kill switch.
So basically, you just need the same thing motorcycles have, mount that switch on a handlebar. Like motorcycle riders, you are able to not pull the throttle when you want to stop.
If you have PAS, then its another story, the kill switch will help you not activate motion when you fiddle with the pedals at a stop sign.
Brushless, I suppose its possible to fail this way, but I never had it happen, nor heard of it. You could have a pair of wires to the throttle get cut, and short, resulting in a signal to full throttle the bike, but really,,, its not going to happen. Or a throttle could jam on in a crash I suppose. But again, about as rare as it happens on a motorcycle, which has a handlebar mounted kill switch.
So basically, you just need the same thing motorcycles have, mount that switch on a handlebar. Like motorcycle riders, you are able to not pull the throttle when you want to stop.
If you have PAS, then its another story, the kill switch will help you not activate motion when you fiddle with the pedals at a stop sign.
dogman dan said:
I’ve been reading a lot about whether to use them or not. When took it out for a test ride using throttle was ok but with the pas it still carries on until it figures out you’ve stopped peddling. Just wanna be a safe as possible really
dogman dan
1 PW
One reason I loath cheap PAS. Temporarily, unplug the wires to the pas sensor.
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