Common high current connectors - and my opinion on them

What makes the mail order andersons expensive is the shipping. Here's a place that has good prices and low shipping. I just bought my last set from here.

http://www.alt-moto.com/
 
fechter said:
Here's a few other places that sell Anderson Power Pole connectors:

http://www.dcpwr.com/products/productlist.php?id=32&PHPSESSID=6f58ce7497dca344ebd28c4f97762c27

http://www.powerwerx.com/

http://www.cablexperts.com/cfdocs/cat.cfm?ItemGroup=9&itmsub=0&bskt=0&USA_ship=1&c=0
Click to expand...

Thanks for the resources. Is there any trick in assembling the Andersons? I just got a baggie full of them from ebikes.ca with no instructions.

I'm thinking you just crimp/solder them then stick them in...the crimp tabs seem polarized (blade is cupped). Any trick to sticking them in right?
 
****COUGH!!!!!!! COUGH!!!!!!!!!****

I know this is a dusty old thread, but I have a couple of Q's :)

First off, connectors:

One thing I didn't see addressed, is weather (particularly rain) resistance. I don't like to ride in the rain, but I live where rain is almost always a possibility, most any time of the year. I found some plugs at the local hardware store sold for use with power sprayers (pesticides) so I don't know what to call these or what they could be rated to handle (14G wire), but, the plugs that are 2 wire yet similar to the 4 wire trailer in that it is rubber, polarized, and I think, weather resistant.

Are any of the connectors listed on this post designed with weather (particularly water) resistance in mind?

Also, I am very curious about the parallel resister pre-charging circuit. Is this circuit still necessary with an adequate switch between the battery and the connector?

I understand that the switch takes the brunt in this situation, so maybe a relay is more practical?

I have only been using an Amped Bikes DD rear hub kit in it's nominal 36v power, and my next kit I plan to run 56v, so I am looking into what I will need to up-grade.

Another question (hope it's not too far OT hehe) is, if I up the voltage, yet stay low in AH's, will that be easier on the system? I'm sure a lot of these Q's can be answered with a better understanding of basic electrical theory, but I am afraid many of you have forgotten more than I have ever known, so until I am able to take some courses, I'm relying on your exceptional knowledge and patience. :idea: :wink:
 
I have seen Molex and bullet crimp connectors on a 36V 15A controller feeding a 250W motor that had melted and fused together.

This thread also shows the down side of using 'bullet' connectors, but I think they are actually banana connectors.(you need to scroll dwn the page a bit to see the photo)
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=15192&start=75

Re: Metallover's 9c Blackcomb Build
by Metallover » Sat Mar 27, 2010 12:30 pm

... I am about done with my Bullet Plugs. The last short I had to open up one of my zippies and re-solder one of the tabs. It was blown apart. This new short today is the one that sent me over the edge.
Click to expand...
 
I have a pair of Power Poles with a 1K resistor in line that I connect first, then a second pair that I connect a few seconds later...
It mostly eliminates the massive POP when I connect the battery, and keeps the contacts clean.

Im only using the standard little 45A? PP's, but they dont have a issue at all with 60A running through them. The wire is warmer than the contacts.
 
I have been using these bullets on all my connections both motor/controller and phase wires. They can take quite a bit of current, as 10 GA wire gets hotter than they do. And for the price you can have either 1 set of Andersons, or 10 pairs of these. plus they come with really good heat shrink :D

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.41134
 
Any comments on the XT60 connectors? I got a bunch because it seemed like a good idea at the time.
 
I love em. I haven't pushed the amperage limit on them, but they take many many connect/disconnect cycles and don't wear. They are very durable, and fairly easy to solder. In my opinion, they are leagues better than problem prone andersons.
 
What are people commonly using for X5 motors being pushed hard? My X5 is still running standard PP45's but I'm feeding it more than 45 amps, do you go to 6mm bullets?
 
the HK 4mm bullets like these run great on a 130A 100v setup:

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__9283__HXT_4mm_Gold_Connector_w_Protector_10pcs_set_.html
 
I am now using XT150 all over :) they rule! and come with great housing - in different colours. Perfect for phase wires.

They can take a lot of amps, more than 4mm connectors by far.
 
Farfle said:
I have been using these bullets on all my connections both motor/controller and phase wires. They can take quite a bit of current, as 10 GA wire gets hotter than they do. And for the price you can have either 1 set of Andersons, or 10 pairs of these. plus they come with really good heat shrink :D

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.41134
Click to expand...

I have them too. They are smaller than XT150. But it is good to get them with the plastic housing [available in red only] instead of heat shrinks...

If anyone needs 4mm / 5.5 / XT150 / 6mm - i have plenty of spares to get rid of.
 
Awesome post. I guess i may have gone overboard with using 75a andersons on pretty much everything. phases...(motor/controller) and all on my battery packs. lipo pack(4mm bullets) to a parallel harness that has 75a andersons. I will say this....when you have 5 rows of 75a andersons...don't even THINK ABOUT SLIDING THEM TOGETHER. if you do, you're never gonna get them apart again. As in, the andersons have those slots for connecting to each other. even two rows of andersons (4x4 pattern) are borderline impossible to take apart. I have cut myself multiple times..Looking to change my setup now. maybe 6mm bullets? dunno..
 
Actually they can be easy to take apart. Set the row that slides back toward the wire face down on the edge of a table or something, with the row that slides forward away from the wire overhanging the edge. Press down on the back of that row with the edge of a hardcover book or block of wood or something similar that gives you a good handgrip to press against, then push down to slide them off.

You may have to use a second book or block against the opposing edge of the ones supported on the table, to hold them in place during the sliding of the others.
 
It takes practice, but I haven't found a single set of Andersons that I wasn't able to separate after "sliding" together. You have to make sure you are going in the right direction first! :D

Then, it takes even pressure from the top of one and the bottom of another to slide them apart. Having some slack before the wires enter a bundle also helps.
 
Here's a trick with andersons. Granted, they may get a lil loose if you do this too many times. You can just grab them from the sides with two pairs of pliers and flex them apart. they go snap! And then pop apart. This also works on the fused pair andersons, and I have not had a pair fail to slide back together afterwards.
 
Highly advise using a recharge resistor on systems over 36v.

A few years ago I made the switch to 30a Andersons as my default power connector and invested in the $45 crimping tool. Its so fast and easy. They are cheaper than the 50 and 175a models on a per amp basis. So I may just use 2 or 3 pairs to get the current rating I need for my bigger power systems. I bought a 175a one and its heavy - maybe a pound (pair). I get everything on eBay. $10 shipped for 10pairs of the 30a model.
 
cal3thousand said:
It takes practice, but I haven't found a single set of Andersons that I wasn't able to separate after "sliding" together. You have to make sure you are going in the right direction first! :D

Then, it takes even pressure from the top of one and the bottom of another to slide them apart. Having some slack before the wires enter a bundle also helps.
Click to expand...

Channel lock pliers work wonders for this. I find most pairs are very hard to slide apart by hand.
 
i spent an hour and made 10 solid copper prongs for testing some of my makita packs.
but for the final install, i decided to hard wire direct because i live at the beach w/salt air and high humidity. everything will corrode over time.
can still test each pack with my copper prongs, just plug in and hook to load. this should meet my goal of "easy to service"
 
Few mentions of AWG size pertaining to all the connector selection. I'd sure like to see that. I just got some XT60 connectors, they SEEM fine, but the male side takes 10 AWG, the female 12. That just ain't right.
 
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