sal_park
100 mW
Hi,
my commuter is currently going through a rebuild and I thought I'd record the details in this thread.
Here's what it looked like before:
It's a 250w bafang fun8 front hub that I installed around 18 months ago. Unfortunately this noise turned out to be the motor having eaten the grub screw that you need to take the motor case apart. I found a youtube video showing how to take the case apart, but apon inspection of my motor I could see the grub screw *hole*, but no grub screw. The 2 parts of the case were loose (causing around 5mm play at the tyre) however I could not get the case to turn. I didn't use the proper tool, but with my home-made one was able to exert enough force to chip the case, but not open it... so onto plan B.
Plan B involved replacing the motor with a rear drive BPM 500W kit from bmsbattery.com. Here are some pictures from the build.
Just before starting:

Here is the existing bastardation of 2 racks - the black one was already on the bike when I install the first ebike kit, and the sliver one is where the battery goes:
View attachment 18
Here I've started to remove the silver rack and test fitted the new controlled (old controller was in silver metal box ahead of the battery:

I had to remove some metal from the black rack to mount the new controller, and drilled some holes to mount it (with ny-lock nuts)

View attachment 15
View attachment 14
But I still need to re-fit the silver rack a bit:

I've now removed the silver rack from the bike and the silver metal box where the old controller was:
View attachment 12
View attachment 11
Now I need to make a little hole in the metal box to allow all the new cabling in from the controller:

And super glue some rubber around it so I don't damage the cables:

Here is the box re-installed, looking from the underside of the silver rack:
View attachment 8
Now it's on to fitting the rear wheel:

It pretty much fitted ok first time. I had to re-fit it several times when it became apparent other things were not fitting correctly...
Next thing to fit was the torque arm - I test fitted it, planning to secure it to the caliper mount post. A bit of blue tack made marking where to drill much easier:

View attachment 5
View attachment 4


First reason to remove the wheel: best to remove this packing piece before putting on the brake disc

I had a few other hickups - I bent the anti-rattle shim in the caliper and didn't add enough packing washers on the axle first time round, but after all this, here is the money shot:


my commuter is currently going through a rebuild and I thought I'd record the details in this thread.
Here's what it looked like before:
It's a 250w bafang fun8 front hub that I installed around 18 months ago. Unfortunately this noise turned out to be the motor having eaten the grub screw that you need to take the motor case apart. I found a youtube video showing how to take the case apart, but apon inspection of my motor I could see the grub screw *hole*, but no grub screw. The 2 parts of the case were loose (causing around 5mm play at the tyre) however I could not get the case to turn. I didn't use the proper tool, but with my home-made one was able to exert enough force to chip the case, but not open it... so onto plan B.
Plan B involved replacing the motor with a rear drive BPM 500W kit from bmsbattery.com. Here are some pictures from the build.
Just before starting:

Here is the existing bastardation of 2 racks - the black one was already on the bike when I install the first ebike kit, and the sliver one is where the battery goes:
View attachment 18
Here I've started to remove the silver rack and test fitted the new controlled (old controller was in silver metal box ahead of the battery:

I had to remove some metal from the black rack to mount the new controller, and drilled some holes to mount it (with ny-lock nuts)

View attachment 15
View attachment 14
But I still need to re-fit the silver rack a bit:

I've now removed the silver rack from the bike and the silver metal box where the old controller was:
View attachment 12
View attachment 11
Now I need to make a little hole in the metal box to allow all the new cabling in from the controller:

And super glue some rubber around it so I don't damage the cables:

Here is the box re-installed, looking from the underside of the silver rack:
View attachment 8
Now it's on to fitting the rear wheel:

It pretty much fitted ok first time. I had to re-fit it several times when it became apparent other things were not fitting correctly...

Next thing to fit was the torque arm - I test fitted it, planning to secure it to the caliper mount post. A bit of blue tack made marking where to drill much easier:

View attachment 5
View attachment 4


First reason to remove the wheel: best to remove this packing piece before putting on the brake disc


I had a few other hickups - I bent the anti-rattle shim in the caliper and didn't add enough packing washers on the axle first time round, but after all this, here is the money shot:
