Controller an battery combinations

[xXSaneXx]

First off, hi, I'm new here an new to the ebike diy part. I own a XP Lite and love it, I'm also building a 20inch bmx ebike.
I bought a controller with 17a setup for a 24v, 36v an 48v depending how I set it up. I'm planning on going 48v10ah battery with a 30amp bms. Is that to much on a 17a controller? The rear hub I'm using is a 300w xp lite hub with a 719 wat peak. Now upon research on here I sen someone say you multiply the battery voltage times the amp controller an that will tell you the combined wattage the motor will push out. Now, I don't plan on making it go super fast but I don't wanna burn it up either.
Would I be ok using a 48v10ah battery on that controller? Like I said I'm not planing on going super fast, 20mph is fine with a rigid frame lol, granted I will be upgrading to a suntour front fork and a suspension seat post after it's rideable.
Thank you for your help
I'm using a 20inch steel mongoose bmx, it's light so it should be fun

 

[E-HP]

The battery should always have a greater discharge current rating than the controller's current requirement. The more capable the battery, the better, since it will reduce voltage sag, that can be felt in increased performance. It also ensures that continues to be the case as the pack degrades over time.

30A from a 48V10Ah battery; is that a custom pack that you're building? What cells are in the pack?

 

[xXSaneXx]

The battery should always have a greater discharge current rating than the controller's current requirement. The more capable the battery, the better, since it will reduce voltage sag, that can be felt in increased performance. It also ensures that continues to be the case as the pack degrades over time.

30A from a 48V10Ah battery; is that a custom pack that you're building? What cells are in the pack?

Thank you, an no it's a battery I'm looking at hopefuly it will work.

https://www.amazon.com/EBike-Battery-Electric-Lithium-Waterproof/dp/B0B8TZ7H1K/ref=asc_df_B09X9JC97Z/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=692875362841&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=322145338720451162&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9011792&hvtargid=pla-2281435177818&psc=1&mcid=7add11f018f93f259c7f594529821eed&hvocijid=322145338720451162-B09X9JC97Z-&hvexpln=73&th=1

 

[sysrq]

The battery should always have a greater discharge current rating than the controller's current requirement. The more capable the battery, the better, since it will reduce voltage sag, that can be felt in increased performance. It also ensures that continues to be the case as the pack degrades over time.

30A from a 48V10Ah battery; is that a custom pack that you're building? What cells are in the pack?

Should continuous battery current match the controller maximum current or is enough that rated battery burst current is higher? So far with current setup maximum load on 35E cells rated for 8 Amp continuous load in free air only is 4.66A.

 

[E-HP]

Should continuous battery current match the controller maximum current or is enough that rated battery burst current is higher? So far with current setup maximum load on 35E cells rated for 8 Amp continuous load in free air only is 4.66A.

If you mean by “free air” that that’s the unloaded (wheel off the ground), then 4.66A draw (220W) indicates you have some configuration issues that need to be resolved before continuing to use the motor.

Anyway, the battery’s continuous current rating should be greater than the controller’s continuous requirement (or adjust the controller current limit down if programmable).

 

[sysrq]

If you mean by “free air” that that’s the unloaded (wheel off the ground), then 4.66A draw (220W) indicates you have some configuration issues that need to be resolved before continuing to use the motor.

Anyway, the battery’s continuous current rating should be greater than the controller’s continuous requirement (or adjust the controller current limit down if programmable).

I was referring to cooling of a single cell in free air.
Rated continuous current of the battery is 31A. Maximum controller current is 28A. Some say continous current should be twice as high as battery current. This means that only 15A controllers can be used with 35e 14s6p 31A (40A burst) battery (maximum continuous current with individual cells in free air: 48A)?

 

[xXSaneXx]

Should continuous battery current match the controller maximum current or is enough that rated battery burst current is higher? So far with current setup maximum load on 35E cells rated for 8 Amp continuous load in free air only is 4.66A.

Excuse me, why are you hijacking my thread? You couldn't start your own?