e-beach said:
As for a "bench test" of your system you would probably need a dynamometer for that.
to find out where the problem is, nothing so complex is needed.
just access to the mechanical brake lever for that wheel (with any ebrake wire the lever has disconnected from everything), with the bike upside down or wheel otherwise offground, and the throttle (or pas) to engage the motor, and a view of a voltmeter that is connected to one cell of the pack.
start with the first cell. engage throttle a bit to get the wheel turning, then engage the mechanical brake on the motor wheel (while still holding throttle engaged). watch the voltmeter as you squeeze the brake harder, and note the lowest voltage you get before the system shuts down. write the voltage down.
repeat this test for each cell in the pack.
if possible, measure the peak current at that same moment, but you'll need two meters for that, one for volts and one for amps. if your cycle analyst is working, then it will be the amps meter, and you can get hte amps info after the system is reset. just use the left or right buttons to scroll thru the screens until you get to the one with "amax" on it. that's the peak current. write it down, then hold the rigth button to reset it before the next cell test.
this test is a little hard on your brake pads, but it will work, unless your brakes are shot.
