pucksterpete said:
I know when I set that wheel in the dropout the first time is was pretty straight and as far as the axle would go in the drop out. Will have to check that again.
If you started with a 9mm quick release axle, the axle centre would be 4.5mm from the top of the drop-out, and the top of the drop-out would be a semi-circle. Then you change to a 14mm axle with 10mm flats, The first problem is that the radius at the top and the shape of the new axle are different, so that it's held off by about 1mm. Then the new axle centre is 7mm from the edge, so that brings the new centre about 8mm from the top of the drop-out in total - or 3.3mm further down that it should be - even when it's in as far as it can go. Therefore you have to not only file the drop-outs deeper, but also re-shape the top into an arc rather than a semi-circle.
All this is a bit academic if you have substantial independently mounted torque arms, but I'm not sure I trust those bought ones with more than one link, where the best installation would be with the first link at right-angles the first arm. If it isn't at right-angles, you're relying on the friction of a 5mm nut (or 6mm if that's what you have) to resist the torque, which isn't a lot.
When you add it all together, with the anti-rotation washers hardly in the drop-out, the trque arms nearly able to work as a mechanism instead of a structure, to me, it looks a bit insecure. Having said that, I ran a BPM at 40amps for a while with nothing more than the torque of the wheel-nuts and not very well fitting (but a bit better than yours) anti-rotation washers, so I don't think yours is anything to panic about, but, as you say, next time you take the wheel off, it might be worthwhile to make it a bit more secure.