converting meanwell power suply into Lipo charger

nhuky173 said:
overload protect and overvoltage protect,how to action on meanwell power supply s350-27v??
S-350-27 = Same mods as above - S-350-48 but undetermined resister values.
 
i don't care about resister value, i only care to action overload protect and overvoltage protect on meanwell power supply s350-27!!! :p
 
I am assuming your apparent rudeness is merely a sign that English is not your first language, so for now I will try and help.

Your profile shows Vietnam, please also put that in your profile section so we can all see that directly on your posts on these pages. See my name , over there on right hand side, it also says where I am from "Jersey". Please update your User Control Panel so it says your country.

I also see you have only just joined the forum, so maybe you have not yet found the SEARCH function at the top right of these pages. Use Google Advanced Search box.



Your question is not very clear. What do you mean by 'action overload protection'

Do you want a setable limit to protect your battery from being overcharged or are you looking for something that is 'supply protection'

If you read through the many threads about theses supplies you will hear about many dead ones. They have no real workable protection to stop them dying from overload. The output transistors (Q1 & Q2 from memory) often die if driven too hard. The only real way to protect these units is to keep them cool and run them conservatively

For battery protection, Fechters boards that attach to the front of the PSU is your best bet.

That and your own eyes monitoring the voltage of your pack as it charges. There are threads here showing how to add a LED voltmeter to the units.
You should not be charging LiPo unsupervised anyway, so if you are wanting the unit for Lipo charging, then you should be close by anyway.


I am surprised that DA is still working on these Meanwells, I thought we had all moved on from th by now.
 
:D ,thank you!!!
meanwell power suplly are equipped with a protection circuit that will automatically operate when the output current and output power exceeds a minimum 105% of the rating.
what is protection circuit?
how do protection circuit realize ?
 
nhuky173 said:
i don't care about resister value, i only care to action overload protect and overvoltage protect on meanwell power supply s350-27!!! :p
OK ... be simple

action overload protect = Changing the value of resistor R33. = Limit amp (A) output

overvoltage protect = Adjust SVR1. = Limit volt (V) output (26-32V)
Lower Volt output = replace SVR1 with 2k potentiometer (~21-32V)

S-350-48_2.jpg


See - S-350-48 = Methods ... but R33 resister value different-unknown for S-350-27
 
NeilP said:
I am surprised that DA is still working on these Meanwells, I thought we had all moved on from th by now.

The S-350-series has very good moddablity.
Current and voltage and voltage range and fan mods are easy and effective.
See- ES-Wiki S-350-48 for concise instructions

The S-150-Series is just as moddable and has even smoother regulation!
See - ES Wiki S-150-24 for concise instructions
 
Oh, yes, I know they are good. I have mod'ed many . Just that with off the shelf units so readily available now unlike three or four years ago, I did not think people would still be build their own.

I have 2 pairs of s-350-48's, built with ammeters, voltmeters, parallel/series switch ..switched outputs Fechter boards ...monitoring, extra forced air cooling etc...

But the hassle and work to do it, when you can buy a ready made 2kW unit from the likes of BMS battery, that (if treated well ) is equally reliable
 
nhuky173 said:
i mean, how do meanwell power supply s350-27 work??
i sorry by my english is so bad!!!
Questions ... we not understand.
Answers ... you not understand!
Sorry ...
No can help you ...
 
how does meanwell s350-27v work?
overload protect, overvoltage protect and over temperature protect?
 
overvoltage protect = Adjust SVR1. = Limit volt (V) output (26-32V)
if output >= 32V (overvoltage) or short-circuit output then voltage is approximately zero (overcurrent) or circuit is so hot (overtemperature)
What will happen in the circuit for overcurrent protection, overvoltage protection and overtemperature protection??
you have to talk about it in detail , very detail!!!
thank you note to my question !!!
 
ZOMGVTEK said:
I somehow managed to not take any pictures of the supplies beforehand, but this is what I started off with...

sp-500.gif


Mean Well SP-500-24. I intended to make 4 series of these units into a 2KW 24S LiPo charger.

**image removed since it didnt show**

R50 is in series with SVR2. I removed the stock 5.6K ohm resistor and put a 470 Ohm one, and replaced the jumper on SVR2 with a 5K multi turn potentiometer. The current decreases as you near 0 ohms, and increases as it nears open. Two of the units had R50 clipped, and it appeared to be factory. The only reason why the 470 Ohm resistor is there is to make sure SVR2 never goes to 0 ohms, which is a bad idea. With this setup, the current will go down to 5-6A.

**image removed since it didnt show**
**image removed since it didnt show**
**image removed since it didnt show**

I also replaced the stock 1K 3/4 turn POT with a multi turn, to get better control over the final charge voltage. I will avoid using this to top off the pack anyways.

**image removed since it didnt show**

Here they are thrown in series and wired up. This is just some junk extension cord wire, it got warm during testing and will clearly need to be replaced. I am waiting on some 10 AWG Turnigy wire for the DC side. The AC side will also be replaced with appropriate wire, and the input terminals covered with hot melt.

**image removed since it didnt show**

A screen cap from the video, its pulling 20A @115V and putting out 20A @ 93V. It was just loaded with a heat gun and a hair dryer.

**VIDEO removed since it is set to private**

I tested it out on my battery as well, and it worked just dandy. The PS buzzes a little, and the 15A breaker trips after 20 seconds. :( I'm working on the breaker part.

Is it a good idea to throw a diode on the output? Do I want one on both the + and -, just one, or none at all? I'm undecided. It appears to be OK without a diode, for now at least.


I have a Mean Well SP-500-27.
So I took a couple pics of my Meanwell SP-500-27 output side board, to figure out if I wanted to do this mod... looks sooo easy I need to try it.

In the photo below, the bottom corner has R50, and SVR two is above it in the open area just past R115.
This is possibly the easiest place on the entire board to access. yay!
20141212_132508.jpg
 
No, I just ordered from them. I have had it now since Jan 2012, paid $338 inc postage
 
my charger: Meanwell HLG-320-54-A

320W, max 58V
absolutely noiseless
IP65 water proof
CC and CV configurable using a screwdriver
5 years warranty
€130 at my local supplier

I set it to 54.1V. I'm very pleased yet. does barely get warm at 7amps. Seems to really have superior efficiency. Hope the 600W model will be available soon...how ever my local supplier thinks it will be Q2/2015
here is a thread about these chargers..how ever i read it but i dont feel more clever by now http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=60575#p904985
EDIT: that was BS. the HLG-600 is available already :oops: time to get hands on one!


http://www.meanwell.com/webapp/product/search.aspx?prod=hlg-320h

alimentadores-meanwell-ip67-serie-hlg-240-12b-dimable.jpg
 
Bumping this back to the top with a new question...

I will be running two SP-500-27 supplies in series for my 66v mobile bulk charging. I want to attach a thermal probe to each one to make sure its not going to overheat.

Question is, where would be the best place to put it? what overheats first? I know everything with a heatsink on it gets really fast if I overload it, but if it slowly overheats, what gets hot first?
 
I'd locate it where it gets hot fast. Over longer periods of time, the heat will spread out fairly evenly in the heat sink so it won't matter so much.

Ideally, there'd be a thermistor that could back off on the current if the temp gets too high. This would compensate for the amount of air the thing gets.
 
So now that I have two meanwell with thermal monitoring, I noticed something.
One of then ran hotter than the other.
so the first thing I checked was the fan. Then I realized the fan blows out of the power supply not into it. So realizing that I looked and saw the hotter power supply had a hole in it from where I had the previous amp/volt meter in it.

I put a piece of tape over the hole... instant impovement.
so I started taping up other small holes. like the extra screw mounting holes. It now cooled better than the other.

So I taped over the seams and everywhere besides the air inlets over the heatsinks. They now run much cooler!

Something you can try if you're having cooling issues running at the limit...
 
cwah said:
can you share picture of how you put them in serie?

If you mean Electrically....Nope. not just because they're at home, but also because if you dont understand exactly what you're doing and why you're doing it, you shouldnt be playing with these anyway.... lol
Saying "in series" IS how you explain how to connect them electrically.
You take the positive output of one, and feed it to the negative output of the other.
The two remaining wires, one on each supply, is your output for your battery.


if you mean how they're physically mounted.. they are not mounted yet, as I just finished my wiring lastnight... Once I have them neatly mounted and setup, Im going to share pics... I made a neat display and everything, showing Amps, volts and two temp gauges, one for each supply.
 
"In Series" there is the possibility-danger of the PSs not being electrically isolated.

Confirm that there is no "continuity" between the ground and DC- on all power supplies!
This would result in a short when powered on after connecting in series.
You can disconnect ground on any secondary PS but a short if cases touch each other, or a shock if you touch both at the same time.

Most MeanWells are properly "electrically isolated" but it is a very good idea to make sure.
Continuity check between DC neg and gnd and/or volt meter between separated PS metal cases (connected in series and powered on.)
 
Back
Top