markz said:
My attention was firstly drawn to 4.8kw but it states 4/4.8kw so different controller, plus this motor has no fins probably for mounting considerations.
There have been some upgrades to this system since I got my bike.
The weakness of the bike is that the motor likes to spin 750rpm with 72v at the crank, but your legs only do 100 comfortably. So you can't pedal while riding, leading to a lesser range or a heavier more expensive battery.
But, there is an upgrade, as I said, with a new version the motor and pedal power are de-coupled.
[youtube]iq4eFBYhOyk[/youtube]
For stealth I could still recommend the cruiser/elite frame over the boxy eeb frame.
To accomodate this dual drive setup you would need to:
1, Since the motor is quite wide, you would need to ask for the fatbike version rear triangle of the frame (170mm instead of 148mm)
2, Since the motor and hub isn't mounted as a single unit in the elite frame(so the distance between hub and motor chainring will vary) , you would need a tensioning device mounted to the swingarm for the motor chain. Pedal chain already has the derailleur.
3, As far as I know it is easier to tension a variable length chain than a belt, I would go 9 speed chain on the other side too (the mounts look like bcd104, industry standard).
I would suggest not getting a battery from cyclone, it is far too safety critical. Have one built locally and make sure it is 72v. If you can build bikes I would suggest going only for frame+motor, much cheaper to ship. Rear suspension eye to eye you can max out at 205mm with a trunnion mount or 200m normal mount. On the headtube, you want the one with the bigger sizing, that will be the tapered one, it will let you use more modern forks.