Critique this performance velomobile idea

If you're talking about 1-2lbs of foam, well, I understand that's ~200wh of battery. But you're talking about 300 miles. I haven't been more than 150 miles in a day by pedal power, but even just that left me with a sore posterior! I'd definitely try to make it as comfortable as possible, if you're making this trip with any frequency.

I recently experimented with AgiSoft photoscan to make a digital model of an ear mold for some DIY custom IEM's, made from the ashes of some expensive gift IEM's. It's cool software. Having used it, I now fully intend to have my wife take hundreds of pictures of my backside so I can make a very comfortable seat to upholster over. :mrgreen: :mrgreen:
 
Sorry I made an ASS of myself and ASSumed you had either DUI's or perhaps got caught street racing, and the cops would know you.

We do indeed get a lot of guys here just stripped of their license, who don't seem to get the concept, lay low and let the heat dissipate.

Re the 20mph, plus speed. The law means you weigh less than 100 pounds,( my 80 mile range bike weighs 130, without battery) and wont go more than 20 mph on the flat, unless you are pedaling. When you get to court, no judge is going to think activating a powerful 50 mph motor by the method of turning the pedals is legal. The law means the motor makes the bike go 20 mph. Not the motor makes you go as fast as you like if the switch for it is on the pedals.

No cop that sees you flying along at 40+ mph is going to think you are legal because your feet are moving. They won't understand your bike or give a shit, the cop will ticket and the judge will take one look at your bike and rule the ticket valid. They are cops and judges, the do the frock what they want right?

But that look like pedaling trick does work under 30 mph, sometimes even to 35. We call it clown pedaling, or faux pedaling. Look "normal" and clown pedaling can get you by fine. Cops do have better things to do that worry about bikes that look normal. But look funny, and you get the the stare. Cop thinks, WTF is THAT?

The law in TX IMO, Does not prevent you from riding a very high power bike. Only top speed is specified Just set your CA to 20 when riding in the city in front of lots of cops. In the burbs, 30 mph and a sharp eye for city chotas should do fine. Out in the sticks, let er rip. Or if you have hills to climb, nothing wrong with climbing them at 20mph, which will take a lot of power.

RE actual speed, down hill, or even just downwind, of course the bike can legally go faster than 20 mph, just as any bike can coast 50 mph down hills. And you can pedal up more speed past 20 mph too. It's just hard work to add much more than 2 mph once running 20 mph on a 100 pound bike. This is why setting your CA to limit speed to 30 can fly. Just don't be seen going up the hills at 30.
 
I have combed through the Texas law as written, looking for all its implications. I think what the OP is suggesting is legal, and a judge would have to be making stuff up that isn't there to find that it's not legal.

I'm not suggesting that you could necessarily avoid having a courtroom fight to prove it-- but remember the law isn't about interpreting intent; it's about what's written down and not more than that. It is legal to have an unlimited-speed e-bike in Texas as long as it's limited to 20 mph when not using the pedals, and as long as it doesn't exceed 100 pounds.

The catch, especially for a big boy like me, is that you can't do all that much with 100 pounds. You could choose to do an impressive 1/4 mile ET with a drag bike, or a fast flying mile with a streamlined HPV, but then the thing would have to go back on the charger. A 100 pound e-bike for the street is just not going to outdo a modded moped, and it won't have as much endurance as the gas in one of those silly little moped tanks.

Despite the fact that it discriminates against people like me (6'8" and over 325 pounds), I think a weight limit is a fine, relevant, easy to measure limit on an e-bike. Wattage limits will never be broadly enforceable, and speed limits are tricky due to variations in terrain and wind. And to be fair, a 100-pound rider on a 100-pound hot rod e-bike isn't likely to be capable of much more public harm than I am on a 100-pound lukewarm commuter e-bike. He can get into trouble quicker, but he won't be bringing much more kinetic energy when he finds it.
 
dogman dan said:
RE actual speed, down hill, or even just downwind, of course the bike can legally go faster than 20 mph, just as any bike can coast 50 mph down hills.
Not here in AZ; no specificiation is made for slope. :( <20MPH if it has a motor on it (even if you're not using it, since it's not defined whether or not the motor is in use, just that it must be operated at less than 20MPH).

Here in AZ, you take the motor off the bike and now you can coast or ride up or down the hills or on the flats as fast as that road's speed limit. (well, assuming the police don't choose to ticket you for reckless endangerment, which they've been known to do.)

Leave it on the bike and your brakes better work to limit speed down below 20MPH all the way down the steepest hill. :(
 
There are a lot of low drag velos on the market that are 70 lbs and under and can handle high speeds for at least brief periods. Here's an example of one:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LkHV6JZvdDs

Granted, I would use larger brakes in something like this, and probably completely different wheels and tires. Having a body shell that has lots of crumple zone is not a priority. With just 30 lbs under 100 to work with, if I have to choose a small, low-power motor, it could still allow me perhaps 1 kWh of battery...

Were money no object, I could simply buy a WAW and use it as a base vehicle, and give it a 1kW peak motor/controller/charger setup with a 1 kWh battery... reinforce whatever parts I need to, and get very close to my goal while still being “legal.”

xenodius said:
If you're talking about 1-2lbs of foam, well, I understand that's ~200wh of battery.

Are you talking about the battery box, or something else? The 50 mph modded KMX trike I linked to earlier had 1332 Wh of battery(1.066 kWh to 80% discharge), which would be < 15 lbs of foam worst case by your description. That 50 mph KMX trike weighed 90 lbs. I'm sure I could find a few more pounds if needed, by compromising acceleration, perhaps?

But you're talking about 300 miles.

Yes. I will settle even for 200 miles flat ground at a slightly lower speed, say 25 mph. The exact same battery from that modded KMX typhoon would easily make this doable in a velo of sufficient efficiency(< 0.15 sq m CdA, 0.008 Crr) with the rider putting out like 120W and the electric motor putting out 100W(assuming 125W from battery). This is 5 Wh/mi from the battery, with the rider pedaling at 120W. 1/2 more lb of battery plus 1/2 lb more of foam put together adds 33 Wh for the cheapo HobbyKing LiPos, or another 6.6 miles range. Another 10 lbs material is 66 miles range at that speed.

There is a velomobile called the eWAW that has a model that can do 280 miles range and weighs about 86 lbs total. It's very well designed.

I haven't been more than 150 miles in a day by pedal power, but even just that left me with a sore posterior!

I know that feeling all too well from an unsuspended road bike. There is a certain amount of soreness I can tolerate. I just don't know what that is in a velomobile. I could exceed 100 miles a day on a road bike if I really wanted to(and get very worn out), and have done so within a 24 hour period(most of the time spent not riding, but the time riding spent at 15+ mph).

I'd definitely try to make it as comfortable as possible, if you're making this trip with any frequency.

2-3 times per year, maybe. Some trips to San Antonio as well, which is about 2/3 the way to Austin.

I recently experimented with AgiSoft photoscan to make a digital model of an ear mold for some DIY custom IEM's, made from the ashes of some expensive gift IEM's. It's cool software. Having used it, I now fully intend to have my wife take hundreds of pictures of my backside so I can make a very comfortable seat to upholster over. :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

How heavy does a seat need to be to be comfortable with no suspension? I know it will depend on a lot of variables...

Lebowski said:
Apparently the OP is not the only one:

http://mashable.com/2015/02/25/pedal-powered-electric-vehicle/
amberwolf said:
http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=52250&hilit=Raht

With all due respect, His Dudeness, and Wolf from Arizona, that thing is way too heavy, way too unaerodynamic, and from an efficiency perspective, a terrible design, as it can't be run on human-only power when desired. It's pedal system is more of a gimmick, than anything. My vehicle will be nothing like it at all, and is primarily going to be an HPV first and foremost, but with some ass-hauling capabilities or e-assist for hills when desired and if it can be budgeted into the weight.

The Raht Racer is nothing like what I have in mind. I'm thinking more of this foam velomobile combined with this 50 mph, 0-40 mph in 3 second, 1332 Wh battery, 90 lb electric trike combined with the sort of design principles found in this 86 lb 280 mile range eWAW. Suspension and decent disk brakes are a must. That powerful twin-motor 50 mph KMX typhoon is 20x more powerful than I need to be to do 50 mph in a velo, but if I can work in power/battery of that sort while keeping a decent body shell and similar size battery pack with my imposed weight limit, I will gladly take it. A bodyshell can be done for well under 15 lbs, as long as you don't expect it to provide much of a crumple zone/protection(and even then, certain materials, if I get access to them, could solve the safety issue without compromising weight, too.).

Unlike the Typhoon's Infineon, I need a controller that gives good efficiency at the very low end of its usable power range(< 300W), and if I want fast acceleration, then it has to be capable of high peak power(> 10 kW). I will compromise acceleration if I need to, as even 750W-1kW of motor/controller in this thing would be plenty and allow 50 mph on the flat with aggressive pedal input with the right selection of sprocket sets.

dogman dan said:
Sorry I made an ASS of myself and ASSumed you had either DUI's or perhaps got caught street racing, and the cops would know you.

They probably know me pretty well. I've been pulled over more than 10 times from 2008 to 2013(mostly in one of my cars), and in all but 4 of them the police had no cause whatsoever. In 3 of those cases where they did have cause, it was very minor and debatable still whether I had broken any laws, and in one of those cases and where I was using one of my cars, the cops turned out not to be douchebags, miraculously. Another case where they had cause was when I was on my bike(described below). I had a valid Missouri license at those times.

I've even been pulled over on my pedal bikes on many occasions. In one of them, I slowed down to a stop sign to roughly walking speed from flying around at 30 mph in 90 degree heat with a good tail wind but sweating very profusely, I looked both ways as I slowed to walking speed, my feet touched the ground, and then I took off as fast as I could. I heard a car accelerating very loudly about a block from straight behind me speeding towards me. By the time I reached 25+ mph a block away, I see red and blue lights reflecting off of the ground in front of me and hear a car on my ass and decide to pull to the side of the road, thinking maybe the driver wants to pass. He didn't. The cop accused me of running a stop sign and forcibly locked me in the back of a police car for 30 minutes with the windows up, without my consent, but let me go. I felt like I came close to having a heat stroke. I don't know how they would have observed me “run” that stop sign, because they would have had to have been left or right of me to see me when I was at the stop sign. The speed limit was 30 mph, as well.

I've been threatened by them, unlawfully detained by them, and harassed by them for what amounts to a non-reason on too many occasions. I don't even think I am rude towards them or can think of a reason how I could be seen as such... but did eventually start to file complaints where appropriate as this continued.

I don't know why I get this treatment. I've never done anything to anyone to deserve that treatment(worse has happened to me by the police than was described in the above paragraph, but I'd rather not go into details on a public forum).

That being said, I break many laws(we all do, knowingly and unknowingly), but I always did so while unobserved and always without a victim. Never been nailed for something I did do. I have been harassed plenty of times without a valid reason though.

Now imagine if they actually had something of significance to legally hang me with. Even a normal, slow, upright, 25 mph BMX thumb-pedal ebike could prove problematic, so I may as well go all-out with something that meets my rapid transit needs anyway, but is technically legal.

I'm afraid of what I will do if they ever physically injure me in some future round of harassment, because I just might do something stupid. I would not put it past them, given my own personal experiences and those of some of my friends.

We do indeed get a lot of guys here just stripped of their license, who don't seem to get the concept, lay low and let the heat dissipate.

I get that concept of laying low very much(and lived it), and know this vehicle will attract attention by its own nature, hence the insistence on the vehicle being legal to the letter of the law, regardless of the intent of the law. But “laying low” on a normal bike has not stopped me from being pulled over. I am commonly mistaken for an adolescent, which on a normal, upright, 10-speed pedal bike, you'd think would add to the urban camouflage.

I'm not going to fly by at high speed unless the speed limit is permissive towards that, but even in a pedal-only velo, speeds of 35+ mph on flat paved surface are perfectly reachable in the right conditions for a limited time by an average person. In a court room, the physics simply couldn't be refuted. One record holder could do more than 40 mph in a Quest velomobile for an hour straight. The Varna Diablo III's rider Sam Whittingham reached 82.3 mph for a very brief period, the last time I checked. Both with no electric drive of any kind. :twisted:

Re the 20mph, plus speed. The law means you weigh less than 100 pounds,( my 80 mile range bike weighs 130, without battery) and wont go more than 20 mph on the flat, unless you are pedaling. When you get to court, no judge is going to think activating a powerful 50 mph motor by the method of turning the pedals is legal. The law means the motor makes the bike go 20 mph. Not the motor makes you go as fast as you like if the switch for it is on the pedals.

No cop that sees you flying along at 40+ mph is going to think you are legal because your feet are moving. They won't understand your bike or give a shit, the cop will ticket and the judge will take one look at your bike and rule the ticket valid. They are cops and judges, the do the frock what they want right?

But that look like pedaling trick does work under 30 mph, sometimes even to 35. We call it clown pedaling, or faux pedaling. Look "normal" and clown pedaling can get you by fine. Cops do have better things to do that worry about bikes that look normal.

You're probably right about what the officer would think, but for me, following the law to the letter in the vehicle design is a "what if I get pulled over and sent to court?" sort of precaution. I don't intend to be pulled over and I will be quite careful how I use this thing. In a velo, the officer won't even be able to see me pedaling, but would immediately see the pedals when I stepped out if he inspected it(the electric motor/batteries/controller/charger will be as hidden from view as possible).

I don't think "clown pedaling" would help me much given that I've been pulled over while pedaling hard on a few occasions on both of my road bikes with no electric motor whatsoever.

I want a meaningful and usable amount of power that I generate to be used towards moving the vehicle, anyway. The pedals are more than a switch, as the vehicle will have an "electric off" mode, and won't go at all without pedaling unless pushed downhill. It is primarily and mostly going to be an HPV, but with some ass-hauling capabilities when conditions are suitable.

But look funny, and you get the the stare. Cop thinks, WTF is THAT?

I seem to get "the stare" from these goons just by existing. It's annoying. Goons gonna' goon.

The law in TX IMO, Does not prevent you from riding a very high power bike. Only top speed is specified Just set your CA to 20 when riding in the city in front of lots of cops. In the burbs, 30 mph and a sharp eye for city chotas should do fine. Out in the sticks, let er rip. Or if you have hills to climb, nothing wrong with climbing them at 20mph, which will take a lot of power.

Good advice. I was planning to ride it in this sort of manner anyway, except in areas where higher speed is an absolute necessity not to get run over. It is perfectly plausible that I could be on a 45 mph road in a velo at the speed limit without electric power at all, and it could honestly and fairly be argued in court. They would have to deny the laws of physics to argue otherwise. Being a strong rider helps.

If I can set up the drive system to where the vehicle won't move at all unless it is being pedaled, it should be a pretty safe defense, *if* the court lawfully follows procedure and doesn't make s*** up.

There is no shortage of roads where I'm afraid to take my road bike due to traffic, but where a pedal-only velo would more than suit my needs for these roads. Most of my local travels are on flat ground with very few hills, although getting to Austin will introduce a number of hills, of which this vehicle will need e-assist to do any reasonable(20+ mph) speed at all for extended periods. There will be times where I won't need electric assist at all to do the speed I want as well, like downhills and good tail winds. A head wind is combated by dropping it a few mph to save the battery charge on longer trips.

RE actual speed, down hill, or even just downwind, of course the bike can legally go faster than 20 mph, just as any bike can coast 50 mph down hills. And you can pedal up more speed past 20 mph too. It's just hard work to add much more than 2 mph once running 20 mph on a 100 pound bike.

When I first started riding a bike with any regularity at all in 2008(Schwinn Traveller, at least once every week at the start of my riding), I could only top out at 25 mph, and sustain only 12-13 mph for 30 minutes or more without getting tired. At that time, each 1 mph after 20 mph was indeed much harder to obtain. I wanted more and started riding as much as I could.

Skip forward about 12 months.

By 2009, I was doing 27 mph on the Schwinn with a backpack fully stuffed with 20-30 lbs of groceries before the road got too bumpy and I got too uncomfortable and didn't pedal any faster, coasting back down to what was a steady pace of 20-21 measured on a Cateye Velo 5. At that point, each mph over 20 wasn't difficult at all to achieve. That steel Schwinn was not light at all, at least 30 lbs.

That's what 4,000 miles of riding recorded on the odometer within 12 months will allow you to do. I tried to ride as fast as possible most of the time, compensating for the distance of each trip, pacing myself accordingly. I saw each stop sign as an opportunity to improve my leg strength by pedaling as hard as I could. After about 6 months of riding regularly, I wore my V-brakes out about once every 2 weeks because of this habit. My knees are still good, too(surprisingly, as when I started riding, I was using too low a cadence and should expect damage).

Each 1 mile ride to work back in 2008 and onward with no stops and some minor hills was paced. I watched my maintained speed over that mile go from 15 mph to 16 mph to 20 mph to 24 mph in a matter of months at a time. I watched my top speed on my favorite testing street after work go from 25 mph, to 27 mph, to 29 mph, to 31 mph in that same period when no wind could be felt. I was riding for 90% of my local(< 10 mile) transport needs and avoiding the use of my car. I would try to set a new personal record on routes each time that I decided to haul ass.

I am somewhat more fit than that today, but by how much is difficult to quantify accurately. A velomobile, with no electric assist, could get me pulled over just the same as my non-motored road bikes have...

Each mph after 20 of max top speed is relatively easy for me on a road bike. It's each mph after 30 that gets harder. No electric motor whatsoever. I'm sure an aerodynamic enclosed vehicle will alter this point upward significantly.

This is why setting your CA to limit speed to 30 can fly. Just don't be seen going up the hills at 30.

I think keeping 22-25 max on hills in the cities/towns would be a good choice...

Chalo said:
I have combed through the Texas law as written, looking for all its implications. I think what the OP is suggesting is legal, and a judge would have to be making stuff up that isn't there to find that it's not legal.

I'm not suggesting that you could necessarily avoid having a courtroom fight to prove it-- but remember the law isn't about interpreting intent; it's about what's written down and not more than that. It is legal to have an unlimited-speed e-bike in Texas as long as it's limited to 20 mph when not using the pedals, and as long as it doesn't exceed 100 pounds.

That's what I was thinking. I expect to get f***** with, will try to avoid it, but I want the vehicle to truly be legal to the letter if/when it happens.

The catch, especially for a big boy like me, is that you can't do all that much with 100 pounds. You could choose to do an impressive 1/4 mile ET with a drag bike, or a fast flying mile with a streamlined HPV, but then the thing would have to go back on the charger.

As battery/motor/controller tech improves, this limit becomes far less restrictive. How much do you think I could get a “glider” trike that can safely handle 50 mph downhill to weigh? I'm concerned in this instance with just frame, tires, wheels, suspension, steering, seat, and the parts needed to pedal it forward and stop it. That will determine how I engineer the body, select the motor, controller, drive system, ect, and what kind of maximum power/torque I can hope to have. I am looking at this thing as a complete system... and thousands of possible configurations are flashing through my head, but have little concrete base points to start with.

I will be able to narrow my plausible options down if I get that KMX Thunderbolt and can take measurements.

A 100 pound e-bike for the street is just not going to outdo a modded moped, and it won't have as much endurance as the gas in one of those silly little moped tanks.

This is where I disagree. Even only 5 lbs of difference in battery weight in a velomobile is hugely significant to its range, especially when pedal power is accounting for one-third or more of the vehicle's horsepower at speed. Theoretically, needing 300W to do 30 mph, and pedaling with 100W, extends your range at that speed by 50%. Splitting it 50/50 doubles range at that speed on a given battery.

The eWAW velomobile, as an example, has a base model with a 80 miles range, where adding only 13 lbs of battery for a more upscale model increases that to 280 mile range. The 280 mile range eWAW only weighs 86 lbs.

http://www.lowtechmagazine.com/2012/10/electric-velomobiles.html

Is that enough spare weight to add stronger torque arms, dropouts, chassis rigidity, wheels, and tires? Maybe it has those things already... as it is the state of the art.

I'm looking at this concept of mine from a systems-oriented perspective, kind of how Paul MacReady did with the GM Impact or his pedal/solar hybrid airplane(but without MacReady's type of budget or level of knowledge). I have to choose my components very wisely. A Cromotor or Mid Monster may be much too heavy, and maybe I should look into a BBSO2 or something to save weight/cost over such a big b**** at the expense of raw power(but still allowing high top speed on the flat), or maybe try something else altogether. Those AstroFlight 3320 motors look tempting(5 lbs each! 15 hp!), and I need to do more research on how to make each component work for this design or if it's even possible. Continuous horsepower and torque versus rpm matters greatly, as well, as I don't want to destroy components on hills.
 
The Toecutter said:
With all due respect, His Dudeness, and Wolf from Arizona,
I was not linking the thread in response to your thread, but only in response to Lebowski's post to show where it had already been discussed here on ES.

Knowing nothing about that vehicle, I couldn't say how applicable any part of it might be to yours.

I'd like to see you succeed, but I do think you're gonna end up in court at some point in order to challenge the encounters you're nearly certain to have with this vehicle.


I haven't lived in Texas since I was a kid in the 1980s, and spent most of my time there in farm country rather than metro areas (Irving-area trailer park) but I don't remember the police being very forgiving or caring a whole lot about "interpretations of the law". They're not all that nice here in Phoenix either in some cases, but I haven't actually been stopped on CrazyBike2 for it being what it is, only once as an excuse to stop and see if I was one of the many "undesirable" nighttime bicycle-riders in the residential/industrial area down near my temporary apartment after the fire, but she didn't have any problem with me or the bike once she could see I was just on my way home from work like always.

I had way more problems when I was just a regular bicycle rider before I built contraptions like this, and motorized them, with police harassment for no justifiable reason. Nowadays, I'd go so far as to say no problems. (though civilian drivers are still sometimes asshats, even most of those treat me better than they did when I was just a regular cyclist).






FWIW, it is "Amberwolf", not "Wolf". ;)
 
I now have the trike in my possession for $500 plus about $30 in gas money for a friend that drove me 80 miles out of town to pick it up.

The brakes don't work and there is some surface rust to be removed, and I need to replace the derailleur and sprockets. The front steering linkage uses a 5/16" allthread, and it's bent. I am thinking of going with a chrome moly replacement of good thickness, and may end up scrapping that front steering altogether, as a front suspension with 1-2" of travel would be nice. The front part of the frame is made of 0.008" thick tubing, and will definitely need to be swapped out for my application. The trike feels like it's about 40 lbs. I rode it around a bit on a dirt road and the rear suspension and hammock-like seat is very comfortable at 10-15 mph. Another issue is its 36" width. It will not fit through a standard doorway and I will have to narrow it a few inches(which will also reduce frontal area).

The tear down process begins. If I get a camera, I'll be sure to take photos, because it would be a shame not to document this build. I regret insufficiently documenting the GT6 build(it's not 100% finished, anyhow, but runs and drives. A shame I don't get to f*** around with it much...).

I have the following steps in mind:

1) Disassembly
2) Remove surface rust/prime
3) Fix brakes
4) Fix steering
5) Fix gear system
6) Re-assembly
7) First zote-foam body
8) Initial testing/commuting as HPV
9) Upgrade wheels/tires/disc brakes and disc brake in rear wheel
10) Reinforce frame/steering/dropouts/ect as needed for high speed while narrowing the frame to allow it to fit through a doorway
11) Select/install EV components
12) New zote-foam body built to accommodate EV parts and correct pressure areas and zones of turbulence on 1st shell
13) More testing
14) Odds and ends
15) Working vehicle


I want this vehicle to be safe at speed to where I don't have to worry about losing control at 40+ mph. I do not want to die in this thing, even though the risk will always be there.
 
manual_m.jpg

I suspect your "Foam" vehicle isn't foam, that's sheet material wrapping it. Another thing people use is coroplast. WIthout compound curves it should be easy. From your neck of the woods. https://texasrecumbents.wordpress.com/page/3/
velobug_velomobile.jpg


Just think of the neat looks you can come up with on your own.

http://www.bentrideronline.com/messageboard/showthread.php?t=93682
http://www.n55.dk/MANUALS/SPACEFRAMEVEHICLES/spaceframevehicles.html
http://www.elkinsdiy.com/pedal-recumbents/pedal-car/

cm125-com-machet-200br.jpg

landskiff-verkleidet.jpg


Chalo said:
I have combed through the Texas law as written, looking for all its implications. I think what the OP is suggesting is legal, and a judge would have to be making stuff up that isn't there to find that it's not legal.

But they do. Stare Decisis, 'Let the decision STAND,' is a big part of our laws. Judges get to make their own interpretations, etc. This is what Case History is all about.

Prohibition did NOT make alcohol illegal, much of the government enforcement was in fact illegal. Alcohol enforcement at the Speakeasys was about finding something about the WAY the alcohol was present to prosecute, there was enforcement without due process when they charged people and lost in court because they'd already closed businesses, etc. Texas Guinan created such a stir with her trial that she had the press at her trial and after her acquittal announced there was a big party and her club when it reopened THAT NIGHT, of course the jury were the guests of honor.

Electric bikes are much like alcohol during prohibition. Not allowed to import IF, (But not simply prevented from importing) You CAN make your own IF, and let's not forget running around in public with what would seem to be illegal.

What happens in court is usually less about the laws themselves and more about the agency law (Stems from policy) and the case law (Past decisions).

So this is SUPPOSED to be a pedalcar, I have to wonder.
1952-CM125gl-molhouse.jpg


But if I put a body on a tadpole, I'll want something like---

quadcumbent_erv.jpg
 
Dauntless said:
I suspect your "Foam" vehicle isn't foam, that's sheet material wrapping it. Another thing people use is coroplast. WIthout compound curves it should be easy. From your neck of the woods.

The following site describes what the material is/does.

http://www.recumbents.com/mars/pages/proj/tetz/manual/0intro.html

http://www.recumbents.com/mars/pages/proj/tetz/TFVM/TFVMp1.html
http://www.recumbents.com/mars/pages/proj/tetz/TFVM/TFVMp2.html
http://www.recumbents.com/mars/pages/proj/tetz/TFVM/TFVMp3.html

Coroplast was used to make aeromods for my car. Another possibility is fiberglassing my own shell, or perhaps making it out of finished wood wrapped in some type of material with epoxy holding it together. I have to keep the shell under 20 lbs.
 
Well darn, that's interesting stuff. (And it IS sheet material.) I think I can use this stuff. I'm assuming it's this one, but I EMailed and asked. http://www.zotefoams.com/pages/EN/azote.asp

Basically, if you go to the auto parts store and look at the oil, the radiator fluid, etc., that's the material. Also the one gallon milk jugs. High Density PolyEthylene.

I've got to show my old teacher the pic of the guy using the heat gun on it, he'll LOVE it. AH well, he did say it's not REALLY the way to do it. I wonder if you can get an electric blanket up to 200 degrees. If I guess right it might only need to be 170-180 degrees. I suppose I could make my own. http://www.boardbuilders.co/2012/08/heater-blanket-project.html
 
Attached are pictures of this slightly rusty heap that my friend took. Got a few things to fix before I can start riding as is(before building a body).
 

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Beating the dead horse. I also ASSumed any cops in a mood to pull you over would be a dick, as would the judge be pissed because you made him think hard. Legal or not may have no bearing on the case, especially if you are in a court where judges are not even lawyers. It could literally come down to how much you actually look like Toecutter in the movie.

It will be fascinating to follow your adventure, and see how cops react to you.

Maybe I missed it, where exactly do you live? What town in TX can make a huge difference in how the cops behave.
 
dogman dan said:
Beating the dead horse. I also ASSumed any cops in a mood to pull you over would be a dick, as would the judge be pissed because you made him think hard.

If the judge doesn't want to do his job, he shouldn't be paid our tax dollars. But yes, they do hate that very much... I know of some judges that deserve to be dis-BARed or even imprisoned for their treatment of people, backroom dealings, and lack of following proper procedure...

Legal or not may have no bearing on the case, especially if you are in a court where judges are not even lawyers. It could literally come down to how much you actually look like Toecutter in the movie.

Perhaps in my favor, I look nothing like the Toecutter in Mad Max. I'm a 30 year old man that commonly gets mistaken for a high school kid. I'm also white.

It will be fascinating to follow your adventure, and see how cops react to you.

I'm intent on recording all interactions with LE in this vehicle so that the camera can speak for itself. I've been f***** with too many times without reason. I have no criminal or arrest record of any kind whatsoever, and am sick of being treated like some kind of terrorist by these goons. About the only thing they haven't yet done is wrongfully arrested me or assaulted me to the point of injury or death, and I'm afraid of what I would do if provoked in that manner. Self defense against a cop is still self defense... and that camera might save my ass in such a scenario. It would be preferable to say, a cop beating me to death and sprinkling some drugs and/or a weapon on my corpse while walking off with the cash in my wallet.

Maybe I missed it, where exactly do you live? What town in TX can make a huge difference in how the cops behave.

Corpus Christi, TX
 
I found an interesting writing on build materials for kayaks:

https://texasrecumbents.wordpress.com/skin-on-frame/
http://www.gaboats.com/

8 lbs for a kayak... and it is a strong, rigid material, unlike the zote-foam that I thought of using. Rigidity provides safety. A rigid body could allow me to strap myself into a well-designed seat, while giving a layer of protection/cage structure in a collision. Safety is desirable if it can be accommodated, although the most important safety factor to me is maneuverability and control during unexpected abnormal conditions and the ability to avoid such situations.

I don't have a scale, so I haven't weighed my trike, but I will assume it's 45 lbs(Feels about 40-ish, picking it up). If I can make a body of 12 lbs, and my brake/wheel/tire upgrades add 10 lbs, and another 5 lbs for chassis reinforcement, and 3 lbs for front suspension, that is 25 lbs left over for EV components and miscellaneous fabrications to house them/myself. That's not bad, and leaves a decent number of possibilities available for this vehicle. I really want no less than 15 lbs of battery; if I have to go to a smaller battery pack, I could always carry a charged spare with my personal luggage in a storage compartment to continue my trip when the first battery was drained. One design consideration is to make the battery removable, so that it can be taken inside a residence or place of business for charging. I would only need to carry spare batteries on long trips.

50 mph or so is the top speed goal, with the ability to do 30 mph for long periods with 100W or so of pedaling plus 200W or so electric assist. Anything available over 1 kW with regard to the electric drive system I pick gets used for acceleration. I probably won't want more than 10 kW at most due to everything else just being wasted on lost traction, and 5 kW would be more than enough many times over still... but the ability to act like a jackass in the vehicle, if it can be worked in, would be nice.

Maxxis Hookworms are interesting tires. They seem solid and seem capable of handling extended 40+ mph speeds, and have thick sidewalls that will be less likely to fail when the tire is flattened versus normal downhill bike tires. Motorcycle wheels and tires get somewhat heavy, but may be required, thus influencing design in the direction toward "less battery".
 
The Toecutter said:
Maxxis Hookworms are interesting tires. They seem solid and seem capable of handling extended 40+ mph speeds, and have thick sidewalls that will be less likely to fail when the tire is flattened versus normal downhill bike tires.
Might wanna look into that some more.

Somewhere in my posts from near end of 2013 I think it was, you can see where I had problems with my 20" hookworm sidewalls failing. Tire itself is ok, still has lots of tread left. I can't remember the mileage but it should be in the post with pics of the sidewall/bead issue.


The ringworms I'm using now haven't had that problem yet, though I wore one down pretty far (into the fibers under the rubber) after around a year I guess. (daily commute of ~ 5 miles, about 5 times a week, 25 miles a week for 52 weeks, around 1300 miles there, plus at least 200-300+ more for side trips, errands, grocery runs, etc.).


Both seem to have the same grip on pavement with the heavy rear end, but I don't know if one has softer rubber than the other.


I'd like to get a pirelli ml75 on there instead, or the shinko equivalent, but haven't found one locally and haven't wanted to deal with shipping/etc.
 
Corpus is a bit of a laid back town. I'm sure you have a better chance of avoiding grief with cops there than you would in some TX towns.

And, it's just big enough to perhaps have some more professional traffic court judges. Here in NM, :roll: forget it. But here, 99% of cops would ignore you. When I go to TX or AZ, I know for a fact traffic cops are actually doing their jobs.
 
amberwolf said:
Might wanna look into that some more.

Somewhere in my posts from near end of 2013 I think it was, you can see where I had problems with my 20" hookworm sidewalls failing. Tire itself is ok, still has lots of tread left. I can't remember the mileage but it should be in the post with pics of the sidewall/bead issue.

Was this it?

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=12500&hilit=maxxis&start=925

Thanks for the heads up. If I experiment with these tires, I will be sure to run them at the rated pressure. When they are operated outside of their rated pressure, the forces acting on the tire can cause it to behave in a manner it was not designed for. That may not be all of what caused the failure though, but it is certainly a viable candidate.

That 50 mph KMX Typhoon uses them, but I haven't found info yet with regard to longevity for that application.

I have been toying with the idea of perhaps two hookworms or roundworms up front, and a moped or motorcycle wheel and tire with a very stout disc brake in the rear, just so that the rear of the trike has equal or greater stopping power compared to the front. Finding a moped/motorcycle tire with a low enough rolling resistance coefficient to make acceleration while pedaling with no-electric power at all roughly comparable to a normal mountain bike will be tricky, nevermind the inertia of a heavier motorcycle wheel/tire to overcome when accelerating under just pedal power.

I want this thing to be very usable as a "pedal only" vehicle on flat ground and very slight inclines.

The ringworms I'm using now haven't had that problem yet, though I wore one down pretty far (into the fibers under the rubber) after around a year I guess. (daily commute of ~ 5 miles, about 5 times a week, 25 miles a week for 52 weeks, around 1300 miles there, plus at least 200-300+ more for side trips, errands, grocery runs, etc.).

What speeds do you commonly take your bike? How much do your wheels and tires weigh? Any abuse? How much does the vehicle weigh with you riding it? What kind of performance did you design it to have?

dogman dan said:
Corpus is a bit of a laid back town. I'm sure you have a better chance of avoiding grief with cops there than you would in some TX towns.

And, it's just big enough to perhaps have some more professional traffic court judges. Here in NM, :roll: forget it. But here, 99% of cops would ignore you. When I go to TX or AZ, I know for a fact traffic cops are actually doing their jobs.

If this is a "laid back" town, I hate to think of what the not-so-"laid back" towns are like...
 
Bicycle tires are designed to roll from side to side in normal use. Trikes and quads don't do that.

There are a few exceptions, but most of the tires used on 'bent trikes are being used in an unanticipated manner and thus will display unanticipated wear and handling quirks.
 
The Toecutter said:
Yes, that's it.


Thanks for the heads up. If I experiment with these tires, I will be sure to run them at the rated pressure. When they are operated outside of their rated pressure, the forces acting on the tire can cause it to behave in a manner it was not designed for. That may not be all of what caused the failure though, but it is certainly a viable candidate.
Yeah, I don't know if it could be a cause or not, but I couldn't run them at their rated pressure or I would have bounced along like a basketball on the bad road sections. :roll:

I suspect a combination of pressure and narrow rim, but I really can't be certain at all.



I have been toying with the idea of perhaps two hookworms or roundworms up front, and a moped or motorcycle wheel and tire with a very stout disc brake in the rear, just so that the rear of the trike has equal or greater stopping power compared to the front.

Unless you have a very long wheelbase with most of the weight on the rear, having good rear brakes will be mostly irrelevant. On a trike like the one you presently have, as soon as you apply the brakes the rear wheel won't have much in the way of traction so any braking you do back there will just skid the wheel, probably.

If you add all the weight of everything you intend to add to the trike at the rear, behind the rear axle, then it will mitigate this some, but everything forward of there will help put weight on the front vs the rear, I think, during braking. I'm not sure of where exactly the point is that makes it worse, on your trike.

The only reason my rear brakes work about as well as the front is because at least 2/3 of the weight is on the rear tire, *and* my wheelbase is very long (the bike is over 8 feet, so I'd guess the contact patches are around 7-ish feet apart).

What speeds do you commonly take your bike?
18-20MPH cruise, as it's a commuter and here in AZ it's only a bicycle-class vehicle if operated under 20MPH. :/



How much do your wheels and tires weigh?
Dunno offhand, but probably around 15lbs, given that they are midsized hubmotors. Front older 9C 28xx series, rear Crystalyte HSR3548.


Any abuse?
Yes, as the roads here are frequently damaged by poor construction and high daytime temperatures leading to edges of roads and corners being pushed up by the heat softening asphalt, causing ridges and waves in it, or holes being torn in it, as large vehicles accelerate and brake and change direction over the months and years (or decades) between repairs.

So there's a lot of potholes and pothole-like deformations in the road edges and righthand lanes that bicycles generally are relegated to by law (and by traffic patterns in reality), which batter my bikes pretty thoroughly as they are not built as offroad vehicles.

There are a few intersections I regularly ride thru that the bike actually bounces around off the surface of the road while going over the "ruts" and ridges in the asphalt from the crosstraffic on those roads.

There's others, especially corners, where i have to go to the left of center in the lane to stay away from ridges that would bounce me dangerously at 20MPH, even down at 15MPH or less, and could cause loss of control or damage to the bike.

Some I just avoid because I don't like the sensation, but qutie a few could break the bike if I hit them at speed--maybe not the first time, but they'll cause cumulative damage.


I used to have a lot of problems with broken spokes, rims, etc. on the rear wheel (even with a regular bicycle wheel, 44 spoke I think), but now I'm using a much better rim (ex-Zero MC rim from an early model) and 13-14 butted Sapim spokes radially laced. I think the strong wide rim has more to do with it than anything else, as it doesn't deform as easily as the smaller weaker rims I'd had before, and thus doesn't let the spokes loosen as much and end up causing the typical types of failures such things end up with.

(though the problems even with those were nothing like as bad as what happenned sometimes while I was still using powerchair motors thru the bikechain drivetrain. :oops: )


Of course the abuse is magnified by it being a hardtail, carrying what would be absurd loads of cargo for a typical bicycle (which it isn't, exactly).

How much does the vehicle weigh with you riding it?
Around 350lbs presently, I'd guess, given my now-increasing weight. Doesnt' count cargo, which ranges from 50-300lbs, though around 100-150lbs on the back end is where it starts to not feel quite right, and gets worse rapidly as that weight goes up especially if it's not down in the boxes (cargo pods).

What kind of performance did you design it to have?
Well, it's not exactly designed but is rather the results of a series of continuing experiments and hacks, but I basically work on it to get *to* the 20MPH limit as quickly as possible, and have as much range as possible (presently around 30-ish miles with the main pack, there are two secondary packs I can add for more) while hauling as much cargo as possible.

Presently that means around 4-4.5 seconds from 0-20MPH, wihtout cargo or the trailer, and the ability to haul several hundred pounds of stuff (most commonly dog food, or the dogs themselves (or both)).
 
Chalo, that link is good info that I probably would have never come across. Thanks! I'm glad that there are safe 30+ mph rated tires out there, and of which would be suitable if I kept this build at 35 mph or less. The low rolling resistance that skinny tires of that sort can provide is a desirable trait for my build... I just wish they were rated at a higher speed. I understand that 50 kph is the max speed limit of e-bikes in the least restrictive parts of Europe, but I'm not confident that they would be safe at 50 mph as opposed to 50 kph.

Amberwolf, thanks for sharing your description of the abuse of your Roundworm tires. They show better tolerance to abuse than any of the bicycle tires I've ever used. I wonder how long they'd last on smooth roads? They're a better candidate than any other bicycle tire that I have researched thus far, by that description, but not up to the standards of DOT approved tires. With 300 lbs of cargo though, that is 650 lbs bouncing on those tires and tubes, when they weren't even at the proper pressure! A laden vehicle of 650 lbs moving at at 20 mph hits a bump with the same momentum as a laden vehicle of 250 lbs moving at 52 mph, so they seem capable of handling the impacts that they would be subjected to under my useage patterns, at least for 1000 miles or so.

With that being said, that doesn't give me confidence that they are safe at high speeds. The risk of complete loss of vehicle control would be foolish to tolerate. Before and after each ride, I would have to inspect those tires if I used them...

With an elongated wheelbase, I could have myself seated further back(and lower) to balance the weight more towards the rear, and have the added bonus of turning the steel seat frame that exists on the trike I bought into a roll bar, while reducing frontal area, but you are correct that the traction on the rear wheel would be limited. If I do this, I may need thicker metal on that seat rest, and better padding... I'm concerned about how this trike will behave in a panic stop and I will need for it to be stable during the application of the brakes. 0.3-0.4g or so is about as much braking as I want, as I do not want to land the vehicle on its nose at any speed.

The law in AZ is too restrictive... 20 mph gets you run over in most of the U.S. :(

I don't know if I will use a hub or a mid-drive. I require a very broad efficiency curve though, so most hub motors would not be ideal. Hills are a concern. My disc brakes of choice are probably going to be 203mm, and those aren't the lightest things around...

I am curious as to what that Zero MC rim weighs. Have you ever heard of the FX5 Mountain Moto? Lightest "motorcycle" in the world at 130 lbs. It uses a 250cc engine. I wonder how light and sturdy its rims and tires are... it was built to reach 60 mph, and to be upgraded beyond that. Those parts, if sufficiently light, would possibly work well for my build.

0-20 mph in 4 seconds is not bad acceleration for your vehicle. I own a 120+ mph capable diesel land yacht of a car that accelerates from 0-20 as slowly as that! The fact that your ebike build can match a car to 20 mph is impressive.
 
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