ElectricGod
10 MW
This is a completely shameless post...I'm at 1999 posts and this will take me to 2000. Lame...yes I agree. But lookey...now I'm a 10MW poster...like that matters to me at all.
Currie Kick Scooter conversion
- Thread starter ElectricGod
- Start date
ElectricGod
10 MW
More pics to come...I must have forgotten to upload the rest of them.
I've gotten back to implementing changes in the Currie. The devil is in the details so little by little I'm getting all the stuff I didn't like corrected.
I recently bought a rivnut tool and a bunch of rivnut sizes. Several places I had tapped holes in the thin wall tubing in the frame. I'd get maybe 2 threads in it. I've replaced nearly all of that with rivnuts. A few of those places the stress on the minimal threads had stripped them out (battery bay lid screws). No longer a problem. I still need to do this to the screws that hold the battery box to the underside of the frame. I'm sure they are needing it!
I had a sneak circuit previously that would slowly run down the pack. It's now all going through the upgraded key switch.
I made or modded several parts:
New battery bay terminal block
New 7 switch cluster
New smart BMS's
IP68 connectors at the handlebars
Replaced the wiring for the brake lever switches and used better connectors that are water tight
My 12 fet PV controller is open on my bench and getting a few changes. I had a prototype telemetry module in it. Now it has the production unit. I'm pulling my smaller shunts and replacing them with larger ones to get above 4kw. The current shunts are holding it back from more battery curent. I bought some 12 and 14 awg NiChrome wire. Whatever the biggest is that fits is what's going in the controller. I have a 4 wire micro ohm meter. I'll cut 4 lengths of the wire at .005 ohms to replace the 4 existing smaller shunts.
I upgraded the dumb BMS's on my 2 16S packs to smart ones after upgrading the mosfets, shunts and fixing the busses in them.
Packs with dumb BMS.
Packs with smart BMS. The packs now take up less length (almost 1") in the battery bay. They were packed in there pretty tight previously.
The wiring terminal block in the battery bay has been replaced with a slightly larger one so the new stuff can all be incorporated into the scooter. The old wiring didn't include 3 speeds and other wiring for the 7 switch cluster. The switch on the throttle was also not wired in. Now it's all terminated at the BB terminal block and I have a couple of empty positions too. All the lights, horn, brakes and other stuff are working now.
I'll add this small power block too. I had space in the main terminal block, but didn't think of it at the time. I should have added a couple more terminal positions for ground and 12v. They are quite crowded right now with 2-3 wires in each spot. This little terminal block will expand them quite a lot.
I'm adding USB power to the handlebars so I can charge my phone or the TPMS module or whatever while on the scooter. The AUX switch on the cluster will turn that on or off. That needs to be wired in once the water proof USB adapter arrives. It displays voltage and has dual USB ports and is waterproof.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Waterproof-Motorcycle-12V-SAE-to-Dual-USB-Phone-GPS-Charger-Adapter-Voltmeter/173265564814?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
I used to have this nasty terminal block at the handlebars. It has now been replaced with dual 6 pin IP68 connectors. Obviously water getting in there is problematic and it just looked cludgy and messy. Everything on the handlebars terminated at this stupid thing. I never liked how I did this and have been looking for a better solution for a while. As it turns out 2 IP68 connectors is the answer for brakes, throttle, watt meter and 12v for the USB power ports. The 7 switch cluster has it's own cable into the battery bay and has 3 spare conductors for "something extra". No more exposed wiring or terminal block! The thumb throttle has 6 wires so that has it's own connector and the rest is in the other connector. It all comes up the down tube in a single 12 wire cable. While I was at it, I made everything capable of coming off the handle bars if it needs to be repaired.
A few images of the new handle bar layout. I had the brake levers further away from the grips. The throttle and switches used to be right next to the grips which meant the brake levers were oddly placed. I put the brake levers right next to the grips which is much better. pressing th throttle and buttons is a little further away, but not enough to matter.
This doesn't look dramatically different than it did before, but there are quite a few hours worth of work in here that may not be readily apparent. The stuff looks crowded together, but it's all very readable while riding. I'm pretty happy with the changes and improvements I made. Left to right...TPMS, 7 switch cluster, phone, watt meter and GPS speedo, camera and throttle. Right under the phone and to the left of the watt meter is a nice spot on my aluminum platform for the USB ports.
Upgraded battery packs with smart BMS's
I've gotten back to implementing changes in the Currie. The devil is in the details so little by little I'm getting all the stuff I didn't like corrected.
I recently bought a rivnut tool and a bunch of rivnut sizes. Several places I had tapped holes in the thin wall tubing in the frame. I'd get maybe 2 threads in it. I've replaced nearly all of that with rivnuts. A few of those places the stress on the minimal threads had stripped them out (battery bay lid screws). No longer a problem. I still need to do this to the screws that hold the battery box to the underside of the frame. I'm sure they are needing it!
I had a sneak circuit previously that would slowly run down the pack. It's now all going through the upgraded key switch.
I made or modded several parts:
New battery bay terminal block
New 7 switch cluster
New smart BMS's
IP68 connectors at the handlebars
Replaced the wiring for the brake lever switches and used better connectors that are water tight
My 12 fet PV controller is open on my bench and getting a few changes. I had a prototype telemetry module in it. Now it has the production unit. I'm pulling my smaller shunts and replacing them with larger ones to get above 4kw. The current shunts are holding it back from more battery curent. I bought some 12 and 14 awg NiChrome wire. Whatever the biggest is that fits is what's going in the controller. I have a 4 wire micro ohm meter. I'll cut 4 lengths of the wire at .005 ohms to replace the 4 existing smaller shunts.
I upgraded the dumb BMS's on my 2 16S packs to smart ones after upgrading the mosfets, shunts and fixing the busses in them.
Packs with dumb BMS.
Packs with smart BMS. The packs now take up less length (almost 1") in the battery bay. They were packed in there pretty tight previously.
The wiring terminal block in the battery bay has been replaced with a slightly larger one so the new stuff can all be incorporated into the scooter. The old wiring didn't include 3 speeds and other wiring for the 7 switch cluster. The switch on the throttle was also not wired in. Now it's all terminated at the BB terminal block and I have a couple of empty positions too. All the lights, horn, brakes and other stuff are working now.
I'll add this small power block too. I had space in the main terminal block, but didn't think of it at the time. I should have added a couple more terminal positions for ground and 12v. They are quite crowded right now with 2-3 wires in each spot. This little terminal block will expand them quite a lot.
I'm adding USB power to the handlebars so I can charge my phone or the TPMS module or whatever while on the scooter. The AUX switch on the cluster will turn that on or off. That needs to be wired in once the water proof USB adapter arrives. It displays voltage and has dual USB ports and is waterproof.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Waterproof-Motorcycle-12V-SAE-to-Dual-USB-Phone-GPS-Charger-Adapter-Voltmeter/173265564814?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
I used to have this nasty terminal block at the handlebars. It has now been replaced with dual 6 pin IP68 connectors. Obviously water getting in there is problematic and it just looked cludgy and messy. Everything on the handlebars terminated at this stupid thing. I never liked how I did this and have been looking for a better solution for a while. As it turns out 2 IP68 connectors is the answer for brakes, throttle, watt meter and 12v for the USB power ports. The 7 switch cluster has it's own cable into the battery bay and has 3 spare conductors for "something extra". No more exposed wiring or terminal block! The thumb throttle has 6 wires so that has it's own connector and the rest is in the other connector. It all comes up the down tube in a single 12 wire cable. While I was at it, I made everything capable of coming off the handle bars if it needs to be repaired.
A few images of the new handle bar layout. I had the brake levers further away from the grips. The throttle and switches used to be right next to the grips which meant the brake levers were oddly placed. I put the brake levers right next to the grips which is much better. pressing th throttle and buttons is a little further away, but not enough to matter.
This doesn't look dramatically different than it did before, but there are quite a few hours worth of work in here that may not be readily apparent. The stuff looks crowded together, but it's all very readable while riding. I'm pretty happy with the changes and improvements I made. Left to right...TPMS, 7 switch cluster, phone, watt meter and GPS speedo, camera and throttle. Right under the phone and to the left of the watt meter is a nice spot on my aluminum platform for the USB ports.
Upgraded battery packs with smart BMS's
Ianhill
1 MW
- Joined
- Sep 25, 2015
- Messages
- 2,918
Not spoke or posted for a while i finally had my op and im on the mend ive been in a massive hole of pain but im climbing out of it in the end i had 8 teeth removed and my jaw bone exposed so my lip and tongue didnt lose feeling.
Ive been potching with my vesc to test its software out and be honest im amazed it can make a hoverboard hub sound amazing with the switching frequency set to 24khz and in FOC mode its really silent and crazy torque at 80 phase amps 120 absolute max the max erpm never exceeds 10000 the hub motors are 30n28p and only 16kv so yhey do 15mph on 12s but the torque they chuck out is impressive no wonder 2 of them will move a big boy no issues.
The amount of inputs and settings for the throttle is crazy i run my cheap hall throttles on 3.3v and can use duty cycle or current mode to modulate speed in current mode its like a car throttle its perfect for wheelieing you can increase the torque rather than speed as i roll the throytle on so it becomes more natural feeling to control, a cheap hall can be made to feel as good as a domino easily just wonder how good the domino would be.
Ive been potching with my vesc to test its software out and be honest im amazed it can make a hoverboard hub sound amazing with the switching frequency set to 24khz and in FOC mode its really silent and crazy torque at 80 phase amps 120 absolute max the max erpm never exceeds 10000 the hub motors are 30n28p and only 16kv so yhey do 15mph on 12s but the torque they chuck out is impressive no wonder 2 of them will move a big boy no issues.
The amount of inputs and settings for the throttle is crazy i run my cheap hall throttles on 3.3v and can use duty cycle or current mode to modulate speed in current mode its like a car throttle its perfect for wheelieing you can increase the torque rather than speed as i roll the throytle on so it becomes more natural feeling to control, a cheap hall can be made to feel as good as a domino easily just wonder how good the domino would be.
ElectricGod
10 MW
Ianhill said:
I keep looking at the VESC controllers, but so far have yet to buy one to mess with.
ElectricGod
10 MW
The Currie is done...again! I'm still waiting on the USB charger, but that's it. The 3 speed switch needs to be tuned in for the speeds and power settings I want.
I cleared up several clunky wiring issues and made a BATT+, BATT- and Key switch terminal block to eliminate the clunky way I had done it before.
The 7 switch cluster is all working. In testing tonight, I found 1 small issue. The key switch was getting batt+ back fed through the watt meter. That was easy to fix. I had the watt meter at the handle bars already wired up correctly. It was a minor issue in the battery bay. I had to pull a single wire and move it and that was fixed.
I need to road test tomorrow.
I cleared up several clunky wiring issues and made a BATT+, BATT- and Key switch terminal block to eliminate the clunky way I had done it before.
The 7 switch cluster is all working. In testing tonight, I found 1 small issue. The key switch was getting batt+ back fed through the watt meter. That was easy to fix. I had the watt meter at the handle bars already wired up correctly. It was a minor issue in the battery bay. I had to pull a single wire and move it and that was fixed.
I need to road test tomorrow.
ElectricGod
10 MW
I made a video of the upgrades...
https://youtu.be/gd_ZYbFKwU4
https://youtu.be/gd_ZYbFKwU4
ElectricGod
10 MW
I went out for a test ride last night and found 3 problems...
1. I haven't charged in a very long time and maybe that was the source of the problem I had with the BMS's. I had power just stop and then come back for no seemingly good reason. The watt meter and PV app both showed I was at 57 volts. The BMS's...of which there are 2 would shut off. I wish I would have had a phone that can connect to the BMS's with me so I could see if they showed a cell was running too low. After 3 or 4 shut-offs both BMS, shut off permanently. I was .5 miles from home so I walked back. Looking at cell voltages, they were all 3.5 to 3.8 volts. I still couldn't get the BMS's to enable again until I connected the charger. Last night I charged to 100%. I think I'll disable one BMS and run from only 1 pack and see how it all goes. Then disable that one and enable the other pack and repeat. That may give me more info on what's going on...if anything.
2. The tires were low so they needed pumping up to 40psi each to get the TPMS to stop alarming.
3. The phone mount is horizontal to the ground. This makes the phone screen flip around depending on acceleration or bumps in the road. I need to re-attach the mount so it tips a few degrees so the phone can keep oriented.
Otherwise, everything else worked great.
1. I made settings for the 3 way switch purely as guesses to get 15mph, 25mph and full speed (45mph). I was pleasantly surprised to see my guesses were dead on. Low speed is slow and weak. Medium has full torque so it accelerates well and then just won't go faster than 25mph. High speed...since this was a test run, I never got to test out WOT and see how fast I could go, but I did get to 37mph and of course it accelerates really well. Switching down from High to medium or to low means no power until you slow down sufficicntly.
2. All the lights and horn worked perfectly.
1. I haven't charged in a very long time and maybe that was the source of the problem I had with the BMS's. I had power just stop and then come back for no seemingly good reason. The watt meter and PV app both showed I was at 57 volts. The BMS's...of which there are 2 would shut off. I wish I would have had a phone that can connect to the BMS's with me so I could see if they showed a cell was running too low. After 3 or 4 shut-offs both BMS, shut off permanently. I was .5 miles from home so I walked back. Looking at cell voltages, they were all 3.5 to 3.8 volts. I still couldn't get the BMS's to enable again until I connected the charger. Last night I charged to 100%. I think I'll disable one BMS and run from only 1 pack and see how it all goes. Then disable that one and enable the other pack and repeat. That may give me more info on what's going on...if anything.
2. The tires were low so they needed pumping up to 40psi each to get the TPMS to stop alarming.
3. The phone mount is horizontal to the ground. This makes the phone screen flip around depending on acceleration or bumps in the road. I need to re-attach the mount so it tips a few degrees so the phone can keep oriented.
Otherwise, everything else worked great.
1. I made settings for the 3 way switch purely as guesses to get 15mph, 25mph and full speed (45mph). I was pleasantly surprised to see my guesses were dead on. Low speed is slow and weak. Medium has full torque so it accelerates well and then just won't go faster than 25mph. High speed...since this was a test run, I never got to test out WOT and see how fast I could go, but I did get to 37mph and of course it accelerates really well. Switching down from High to medium or to low means no power until you slow down sufficicntly.
2. All the lights and horn worked perfectly.
Ianhill
1 MW
- Joined
- Sep 25, 2015
- Messages
- 2,918
The wiring looks alot better now its got alot going on buy its much better appearence wise, have you seen the braided sleeving that gives a profesional finish.
Its a damn pitty the vescs fall just short of your power requirements for now ive seen a 16s vesion bit it was ££££££, the gps and video overlay with power stats can be done with ackermaniac app on a decent android phone with a good camera capture everything you need one device through bluetooth and have a data rich video see exactly whats going on but 12s 3000watt 150000erpm is the tapping point on one of the cheaper flipsky 6.6 versions damn good bit of kit make an rc car that would kick arse.
ElectricGod
10 MW
Ianhill said:
The wiring looks alot better now its got alot going on buy its much better appearence wise, have you seen the braided sleeving that gives a profesional finish.
Its a damn pitty the vescs fall just short of your power requirements for now ive seen a 16s vesion bit it was ££££££, the gps and video overlay with power stats can be done with ackermaniac app on a decent android phone with a good camera capture everything you need one device through bluetooth and have a data rich video see exactly whats going on but 12s 3000watt 150000erpm is the tapping point on one of the cheaper flipsky 6.6 versions damn good bit of kit make an rc car that would kick arse.
A 16S VESC? Found it...18 fets, 200 amps...geez!
https://vesc-project.com/node/339
Also found a 150v VESC. I want 2 of them!!!
https://vesc-project.com/node/655
The VESC at 150k ERPM will get you any motor you can imagine purring along, but the voltage and wattage are just a show stopper for me.
ElectricGod
10 MW
A bit more work done...
The USB charger arrived so I took it apart and wrapped it in heat shrink to make it smaller. That saved me about 20% in size. It wasn't really water proof anyway. Now it is. The only opening is at the USB ports and that has a cap on it now. The LED meter on it is a bit useless. It displays input voltage, but nothing about charge current. Well now I know my DC-DC converter is developing 12.2 volts...yipee.
I tilted the phone mount about 10 degrees. Hopefully that will "fix" the screen flip issues.
I pulled out the XLR charging port and am replacing it with an XT90. I'll do this on all my EV's after a while. At 30 amps, I've scorched a few of those connectors now. The current one is OK, but I've killed 2 others on the Currie. The female pins don't hold up to the current, heat up and melt the plastic they are sitting in. The male connectors hold up fine. LOL...like they were EVER intended to conduct anything close to 30 amps! An XT90 will not have a problem. I can cap the male XT90 with a female XT90 easily enough to keep fingers and weather out.
At the same time, I'm pulling off the mounting plate for the key switch and making a larger one that incorporates the charging port as well.
I think that's the last of the last to do to it. Ride around a lot and see if anything else crops up.
The USB charger arrived so I took it apart and wrapped it in heat shrink to make it smaller. That saved me about 20% in size. It wasn't really water proof anyway. Now it is. The only opening is at the USB ports and that has a cap on it now. The LED meter on it is a bit useless. It displays input voltage, but nothing about charge current. Well now I know my DC-DC converter is developing 12.2 volts...yipee.
I tilted the phone mount about 10 degrees. Hopefully that will "fix" the screen flip issues.
I pulled out the XLR charging port and am replacing it with an XT90. I'll do this on all my EV's after a while. At 30 amps, I've scorched a few of those connectors now. The current one is OK, but I've killed 2 others on the Currie. The female pins don't hold up to the current, heat up and melt the plastic they are sitting in. The male connectors hold up fine. LOL...like they were EVER intended to conduct anything close to 30 amps! An XT90 will not have a problem. I can cap the male XT90 with a female XT90 easily enough to keep fingers and weather out.
At the same time, I'm pulling off the mounting plate for the key switch and making a larger one that incorporates the charging port as well.
I think that's the last of the last to do to it. Ride around a lot and see if anything else crops up.
ElectricGod
10 MW
I think I'm really done now. I can't image what else I'd do to the scooter. She's done, complete, finished...for the third time. It's time to get back to the XB-502 which is also very close to complete.
LOL...OK...maybe sometime later I'll build a LION battery pack for it made from whatever are the best 18650's or 21700's there are right now. Currently it's running on 20ah of LIPO. I'd probably get another 15% more capacity too.
I still need to watch the odd BMS behavior and see what that was about.
Last night, I replaced the charge port XLR in the scooter with an XT90. I made an adapter plate so the male XT90 could mount in the down tube and then sealed it all up with closed cell foam. I replaced the XLR connector on the charger with a female XT90 and proceeded to charge. While at it, I made a "Weather plug" for the charge port by filing off the solder posts on another female XT90 and then adding a short length of wire to it that is secured to a screw in the down tube. Unplug it to access the charge port and let it dangle. Pics to come later since I forgot to upload them.
LOL...OK...maybe sometime later I'll build a LION battery pack for it made from whatever are the best 18650's or 21700's there are right now. Currently it's running on 20ah of LIPO. I'd probably get another 15% more capacity too.
I still need to watch the odd BMS behavior and see what that was about.
Last night, I replaced the charge port XLR in the scooter with an XT90. I made an adapter plate so the male XT90 could mount in the down tube and then sealed it all up with closed cell foam. I replaced the XLR connector on the charger with a female XT90 and proceeded to charge. While at it, I made a "Weather plug" for the charge port by filing off the solder posts on another female XT90 and then adding a short length of wire to it that is secured to a screw in the down tube. Unplug it to access the charge port and let it dangle. Pics to come later since I forgot to upload them.
ElectricGod
10 MW
The USB charger cost me $12 and dual charges at 2 amps per channel. It came in a small plastic shell, but that was fairly large compared to the board so I covered it in clear heat shrink instead.
XT90 charging port...I found these panel mount clamps on ebay for $4 each.
XT90 charging port...I found these panel mount clamps on ebay for $4 each.
Fastassmotors
10 W
- Joined
- Jul 9, 2018
- Messages
- 89
Damn bro you are frocking professional! Nice work mate I mean it you should be so happy with that thing. Any places besides apc I could get a 80100 130kv? I'm trying to build a e300 16s I ordered mostly everything except motor and controller. It won't be my first build but I really am kinda stuck trying to find a motor. Should I just go apc sensored? And I really don't know how I'd go about water cooling on a scooter so tiny but what 250/300 16s controller do you recommend? Thanks looking forward to your input.
ElectricGod
10 MW
Fastassmotors said:
The C80100 sold by Alien Power will do the job to be sure. If you look through this build thread you'll see that I had to help it get there with several mods. The bell to shaft union is really weak in these motors so adding much more support is flat out required. The factory shielded bearings are OK for a while, but they need to be sealed at least for long term viability. You might as well go with ceramic hybrids for just a few more dollars.
I'm not going to use Alien Power for motors anymore. Their customer service is horrible. When they ship you stuff, expect them to not send you a complete order. They will deliberately NOT send you a complete motor. WTF!? Then you have to demand you get all the parts, get ignored over and over and finally months later, get a complete motor. GRRRR!
However, Revolt out of Israel, the shipping is a bit expensive, but build quality and customer service are a lot better than Alien Power. They have the RV-100 series motors which are of similar size and performance to the C80100. I have one of those, but have yet to implement it in an EV. I did a review thread on it a while back. I'm pretty dead sure it will destroy the C80100 in every way.
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=94975&p=1390802#p1390802
In my next small scooter build which will be based on a Schwinn S1000, it will get that RV-100 in it. I expect to be able to do 60mph on level ground.
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=94975&p=1390802#p1390802
Controllers... I have helped develop the Power Velocity controllers and they are pretty nice sinusoidal controllers with 5kw continuous on 12 fets. The entire product line is a solid sinusoidal design and the boards get populated in the USA with legitimate good quality parts where it matters. The telemetry module we built for them is better than everything else out there that does anything similar. I'm pretty happy with these controllers! They do have one significant limitation The MCU in them can do 50k eRPM max.
Outrunners are the best wattage, weight, size and price point there is in BLDC. BUT, they have one draw back...lots of magnets and that means higher eRPM's. To combat this I don't go higher than 80kv. At 82v and 80kv and 7 poles on the C80100, that's right at the top eRPM limit for the PV controllers. Any higher anything and they lose sync with the motor. There is nothing wrong with the PV controllers, but keep your eRPM down below 50k. IE: that 130kv motor isn't an optimal choice.
I've been hunting reasonably priced FOC controllers for a couple of years that have much higher eRPM's. I have purchased a few to try out...some are OK...some not so much. Some of the manufactures are giant PITA's and impossible to work with. You have to wonder if they really want to sell motor controllers! A minimum requirement for me is 100v max and 5kw continuous in 12 fets. That reduces the playing field quite a lot! I have no use for less than 66 volts and I seriously doubt I'll build anything less than 4kw continuous.
For now, the 12 fet PV controller with a few mods...bigger wires, larger shunts...is a really solid choice. I have a couple 12 fets sitting on the shelf right now waiting for me to mod them. They will not let you down as long as you stay under their 50k eRPM limit.
For the future...it's FOC only. I'm looking for FOC and much higher eRPM only. Hopefully PV and I can develop a sereis that does 100v and 150v and 150-200k eRPM. Having said that, there are a few FOC controllers that have just come out that have my attention and may be bullet proof solutions for the 100v or less crowd.
I'm really wanting to build at 131v and frankly no one is selling a controller that can do what I want without it costing $1200. That's squarely outside most peoples price range. AKA...back to build your own or try to convince one of these newly upcoming FOC companies to expand to 150v.
ElectricGod
10 MW
The Currie finally got vetted good and solid last night. I was at the bar, got pretty plastered, went back to my place with a lady who drove us both. That left my $50k Golf R 8 miles away in a bar parking lot. Well...the evening ended pretty quickly, she wanted to get laid and I wanted to talk. She left and went wherever. So there I was at my place with my brand new car in a bar parking lot too far away to walk and I'm a cheap bastard so I wasn't calling an uber.
Solution: Grab the Currie and go get the car...Oh hell yes! That was sooo much fun!
I've been testing it around my neighborhood, but it hadn't been on any kind of a decent run in a very long time and certainly not since the latest batch of improvements. Well that just changed. The roads after I get out of my neighborhood and back to the bar are all 4 lanes each way and 45-55 mph. I grabbed my bike helmet, gloves and hopped on the Currie. I had no problem keeping up with the cars. On the flats or even slight hills it does 45 now. There was one long down hill. I was doing 54-55 down that hill. Gawd!!! That was FAST on 12" tall tires! It was rock solid, no wobble or wavering or any issues at all with stability. 75 pounds, 48" long doing 55...just brilliant.
I'm half torn...it currently runs on 20Ah of 66v LIPO. After last night and seeing it just love 55mph, I'm seriously thinking about buying a load of 30Q's and building an 82v LION pack for it. With a pack that optimally fits the battery bay, I think I can get another 5-10Ah in there and upgrade to 20S as well. The deciding factor is I need 60 amps...that's what I pull now at WOT.
It's not like it needs another performance boost. It already pops up the front wheel if you don't hold it down. It already out performs any other EV I have or have seen...what more does it need? LOL...yeah...why not...build that pack EG!!! There is no such thing as too much performance. I'd retune my Golf R in a heart beat if it wasn't under factory warranty. Yes...290hp is not enough. What's stopping me from 55 on the flats on the Currie? Just a better battery pack...
Solution: Grab the Currie and go get the car...Oh hell yes! That was sooo much fun!
I've been testing it around my neighborhood, but it hadn't been on any kind of a decent run in a very long time and certainly not since the latest batch of improvements. Well that just changed. The roads after I get out of my neighborhood and back to the bar are all 4 lanes each way and 45-55 mph. I grabbed my bike helmet, gloves and hopped on the Currie. I had no problem keeping up with the cars. On the flats or even slight hills it does 45 now. There was one long down hill. I was doing 54-55 down that hill. Gawd!!! That was FAST on 12" tall tires! It was rock solid, no wobble or wavering or any issues at all with stability. 75 pounds, 48" long doing 55...just brilliant.
I'm half torn...it currently runs on 20Ah of 66v LIPO. After last night and seeing it just love 55mph, I'm seriously thinking about buying a load of 30Q's and building an 82v LION pack for it. With a pack that optimally fits the battery bay, I think I can get another 5-10Ah in there and upgrade to 20S as well. The deciding factor is I need 60 amps...that's what I pull now at WOT.
It's not like it needs another performance boost. It already pops up the front wheel if you don't hold it down. It already out performs any other EV I have or have seen...what more does it need? LOL...yeah...why not...build that pack EG!!! There is no such thing as too much performance. I'd retune my Golf R in a heart beat if it wasn't under factory warranty. Yes...290hp is not enough. What's stopping me from 55 on the flats on the Currie? Just a better battery pack...
Ianhill
1 MW
- Joined
- Sep 25, 2015
- Messages
- 2,918
I spotted Liitokala, they have some cells that come recommended by use with other ebike riders theres a 21700 imr chemistry 4000mah and 40amp max and 20amp continous and they can be had 6 for $20 so a diy pack of them would be fairly cheap, powerful and fit to what ever shape you fancy.
54mph is fast ive done 48mph downhill on 6.5inch wheels and a boma and turning was an issue specially downhill i would pull wide out of the bends, the wind cought me once like a sail and moved me into the next lane lucky i ride in quiet areas.
Bit of skin protection wouldnt go a miss i think about it and if id of come off i would have peeled like a ginger kid in the desert sun.
I think your roads are more appropriate for speed, the uk valley roads are full of potholes and sharp turns with hump back bridges etc great fun but got to be on top of your game.
All my rides bar the a2b metro are in bits ive clocked some miles up on that too, it rides like a rolls royce smooth plenty of power not slow or fast feels luxury like i should be sipping champers while it silently gets the job done, overtook a lorry up this crazy steep lane we call stormy because you cant see the top of it through the mist and i peddled my heart out give her full beans and dropped him his face was priceless, my battery is hidden in the downtube its no so obvious but its clear something up with the shape of the frame and 20inch wheels.
Im looking forward to either the hub monster or the qs 10 inch you have both of them will make wicked rides.
54mph is fast ive done 48mph downhill on 6.5inch wheels and a boma and turning was an issue specially downhill i would pull wide out of the bends, the wind cought me once like a sail and moved me into the next lane lucky i ride in quiet areas.
Bit of skin protection wouldnt go a miss i think about it and if id of come off i would have peeled like a ginger kid in the desert sun.
I think your roads are more appropriate for speed, the uk valley roads are full of potholes and sharp turns with hump back bridges etc great fun but got to be on top of your game.
All my rides bar the a2b metro are in bits ive clocked some miles up on that too, it rides like a rolls royce smooth plenty of power not slow or fast feels luxury like i should be sipping champers while it silently gets the job done, overtook a lorry up this crazy steep lane we call stormy because you cant see the top of it through the mist and i peddled my heart out give her full beans and dropped him his face was priceless, my battery is hidden in the downtube its no so obvious but its clear something up with the shape of the frame and 20inch wheels.
Im looking forward to either the hub monster or the qs 10 inch you have both of them will make wicked rides.
ElectricGod
10 MW
Ianhill said:
PM me about those 21700's. I have almost no time looking at them.
Some roads here are better than others. That spot where I was doing 54-55mph was freshly paved just a few months ago so it was in really good condition.
I'd like to get an A2B. I keep looking for one, but nothing so far. Your build does look nice and like it's 100% stock. It's something I see as having tons of potential.
Like you, I LOVE faking out people in cars. They think they are going to easily be faster than you and then you prove them wrong. The looks on their faces is priceless.
Fastassmotors
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I'm the most stock looking out of both of you :wink: only cuz I'm running a super simple 800w lolll I'm gonna go crazy on this next brushless build though I'm looking towards you for ideas for a crazy motor and controller.
ElectricGod
10 MW
Just a bunch of pics now that it's done...
ElectricGod
10 MW
Fastassmotors said:
There is nothing "stock looking" about the Currie. Just about everything has been modded. My next build, an electric moped looks pretty close to untouched, but that's thanks to cowlings mostly. Each build has it's character. Post your build as it gets done.
Fastassmotors
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It's done I'm waiting on some lipos so I can get the top on secure. I was going to make a post before but I didn't. And yeah this build is so sick man it really looks straight out of 007 James Bond would ride this thing hahaha. But yea I'll make a thread with pics and vids I also have a mx650 I got for $80 thinking about what do to do with that. I have that basically stock and another extra e300s.
ElectricGod
10 MW
Fastassmotors said:
An MX650 has potential. I bet I can make one do 60+. They already have some basic suspension and disk brakes. That's a good place to start from. The fist thing I would do is pull of that 850w BOMA inrunner and replace the drive line with an outrunner. If you have one, that would be a very cool project.
Fastassmotors
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i don't have a outrunner yet. Should I say F it and build the 650 instead ???? Get a revolt rv 120 pro w/ hall sensors and all the custom stuff you told me to ask for and I'll make my goal 60mph instead. It's just that I've built a e300 before but oh well I feel like the bike would be way more fun
Ianhill
1 MW
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Fastassmotors said:
The e300 is gonna be tight on space ive built 3 of them in passed then moved onto the brushless china style frame due to space restrictions, the biggest wheel they fit is a 6.5 inch minimoto rim so theres decent racing tyres out there i used a junior wet tyre, that give the best level of grip but even then after 30mph it got skitish and it took a massive amount of weight shifting of my body to keep it upright, it would speed wobble or a full power take off would see the front wheel up in air and me clean off i think the reasin for this is their length turns tight when slow and reacts fast so at speed even small inputs made mine dodgy.
The mx650 looks a much better choice for available space but make sure the frame is upto the job dont want the downtube and headset to seperate when at speed.
Another good point the blue razors have foldable handlebars i hit a pothile at flat out and they decided to fold on me lucky my weight kept them upright under braking so i could stop but for a second i was flat out floping them about in the breeze , hump back bridges aint good either my china scooter with 4.4kw did 40mph easy even when climbing i hit a small bridge at speed and i dont recommend that i was air born bith wheels and landing on spungy suspension again wobbling about with poles sticking oit of ground either side so it was ride or die moment, thinking about it high speed scootering aint for the faint hearted its for the crazy.
Fastassmotors
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I could weld something for support if need be. Thanks for the recommendations. I think I'm gonna go rv 160 sh so I could beat electric God in a race :lol:
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