Atak_Snajpera
1 kW
- Joined
- Jul 21, 2022
- Messages
- 328
At the same time they provide presets which are based on some outdated values.
At the same time they provide presets which are based on some outdated values.
They didn't want to confuse the poor widdle bicycle riders with math and stuff.Probably assumed we might have a hard enough time just figuring out what wheel size we had. :/
Would prefer rolling circumference, much easier to measure.Eggrider display had better firmware in this matter. You could enter precise wheel diameter in mm.
Simple mathWould prefer rolling circumference, much easier to measure.
Not at all; account for tire inflation and distortion. Far easier to just roll out one rotation and measure that. My 27.5+ tires distort a LOT.Simple math
rolling circumference / pi = diameter
If your measured real rolling circumference is for example 2000 mm then you enter 637 mm in settings. Simple math. IT is the value but divided by 3.14 (PI).Not at all; account for tire inflation and distortion. Far easier to just roll out one rotation and measure that. My 27.5+ tires distort a LOT.
Of course, even easier would be for CYC to upgrade their BT to a BT+GPS soc, which would cost a couple of bucks and removes the need for any of this. It is 2023, after all. And I'm pretty sure the power budget of a CYC system would cope.
The noise on the gen 3 stealth doesn`t bother me. The photon is quiet. Not as quiet as bafangs though. So far not had any problems with either unit. 1,000 mi. on photon with mostly on road and some hard off road climbs. The stealth has much more hard work thrown at it. Use it on full sus. bike in the mtns only. Lots of hrs. with only the occasional stick getting in the open front drive sys. Carry a leatherman with me as the thrown chain is a mess when it binds on the chainring and front housing. I don`t think the Photon is going to hang with the Stealth with respect to brute output. This is just my finding with both on the same gear inches and 48 volt batteries. I have never had heat problems with either as I don`t use the throttle only on either motor for very long periods of time. The HD bafangs I have I have used like electric motorcycles with no failures. As far as I am concerned the BBSHD is the toughest of all power plts. Just my findings thru the yrs. Just wish the Bafang units had torque sensing on them.
Amen on the holding up or re-install the HD.600 miles here and no problems. Loving torque sensor. Hope it holds up long term or the bbshd is going back on. As mentioned earlier, my only complaint is more drag with no motor assistance vs bbshd.
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I think the Photon doesn`t like very much side load put on it with the tightening nut and the locking ring. Mine wants to loosen on its on and then the unit smooths out. When I re tighten it I notice a slight bumping feeling when I pedal. It doesn`t want to stay real tight and I`m alright with that as long as it keeps working with no faults. The tie wrap trick holds it up against bottom tube and under power it stays against lower tube buy nature.Did reinstall my Photon motor and updated with the new firmware from CYC and done a general reset.
I did put less pression on the retaining ring (Chainring retaining ring).
Results: The Photon motor motor is working OK! No more pulsions from the torque sensor system.
Did 100km without problem.
Hope for 20,000km without problem.
What are you referring to when you mention "tightening nut" and "locking ring"?I think the Photon doesn`t like very much side load put on it with the tightening nut and the locking ring. Mine wants to loosen on its on and then the unit smooths out. When I re tighten it I notice a slight bumping feeling when I pedal. It doesn`t want to stay real tight and I`m alright with that as long as it keeps working with no faults. The tie wrap trick holds it up against bottom tube and under power it stays against lower tube buy nature.
Sure, I get that.If your measured real rolling circumference is for example 2000 mm then you enter 637 mm in settings. Simple math. IT is the value but divided by 3.14 (PI).
True, this is a bit frustrating but really no big deal.I always found the easiest and most accurate method for me was to use the circumference numbers from the table then run a couple of measured miles to see the % difference. Then adjust the circumference input in the computer by the same %. These days using GPS computers, all this measuring and such has become pretty much unnecessary. Then Photon went back to the future and reminded us.
The lock nut on the left side would be the locking nut I would think. Not the jamb nut with the allen sets. All motors whether bafang or cyc have the locking nut on the left side. The locking ring or split threaded collar as you call it is supposed to be slightly pre loaded against the big nut on the left side. The reason for the hole in the collar for you to slightly turn it up against the nut before you tighten the set screw in place.What are you referring to when you mention "tightening nut" and "locking ring"?
If the "locking ring" is the split threaded collar with the hex screw (left side), this should never be tightened. Doing so will destroy the bearings. They'll certainly feel lumpy
Similar for the left crank bolt - there must be clearance between the inside of the crank over the spline, and the spacers and ring between it and the bearing, or tightening will load the bearing and the ISIS spline may not seat properly and work loose.
OK, the left side CYC refer to as a "Left BB Cup"; this contains one of the spindle bearings. There is a small issue with this where the plastic insert dimensions seem to be incorrect, seeThe lock nut on the left side would be the locking nut I would think. Not the jamb nut with the allen sets. All motors whether bafang or cyc have the locking nut on the left side. The locking ring or split threaded collar as you call it is supposed to be slightly pre loaded against the big nut on the left side. The reason for the hole in the collar for you to slightly turn it up against the nut before you tighten the set screw in place.
Tesla?True, this is a bit frustrating but really no big deal.
Even the most approximate setting will still be way more accurate than almost every car speedometer. Do modern cars use GPS for this yet, or are there legal requirements that the odometer be physical?
I will say of the many kits that I have installed. The CYC stuff seems to present more problems. The BBS kits aside from obtaining a good chainline are very simple to deal with and for the most part very trouble free. I just like the torque sensor factor on the CYC that is the only sales point for me. If BBS motors had torque sensing I would not bother with the other stuff. The BBSHD is a work horse with no problems when used with reasonable voltage and wattage controllers. Just my experience. I have the Stealth Gen 3 units on full sys. bikes and they work well also. The Photon is not there yet. Someday maybe.OK, the left side CYC refer to as a "Left BB Cup"; this contains one of the spindle bearings. There is a small issue with this where the plastic insert dimensions seem to be incorrect, seeand that may be what you are seeing. The bearing in the video seemed to have been damaged after very low kms.
The other CYC refer to as "Retaining Lock Ring" and while I initially did preload this when I first assembled the motor, I have since backed this right off because the possibility of over-preloading the bearings is too likely (my previous SRAM BB had been incorrectly installed by my LBS and had destroyed a bearing in <500km - even though the spindle relatively spun freely). Mine is barely even finger tight. CYC don't really even give any indication or torque value for that adjusting that ring, they say "tighten by hand". I think the hole is for when undoing that ring if it is tight and not for doing it up. It is also easy to fit too many spacers and prevent the ISIS spline from seating properly - mine came loose, and the same has happened with others.
From the Fine Manual, page 12:So what's the difference.
No. They use a rear axle sensor. You even have to set the tire size if different from standard.Tesla?
Don't forget cranks are missing, too.Can you guys with a Photon see anything missing from this apart from the spindle and leads? What goes where the 6 holes are?
Just a thought, is it actually one of you guys selling it?
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CYC Photon Ebike Motor 48V 750w | eBay
For sale is a used 48V 750w CYC Photon Ebike Motor, 38T chainring, and SW102 display. Nominal power is 750w but it can peak at 2000w. 110Nm of torque.www.ebay.co.uk
Just like other companies when dealing with claims, doesnt surprise me that CYC is reluctant to send new parts before the old are returned for inspection to see if it is a fair claim, and I dont blame them.
Seems the guy was sent a new motor and display under warranty after a complaint, and now he is selling the old motor as fully working because all he needed was a display.
If it only needs a spindle and lead then do you think this is a good buy? Seriously thinking of it to avoid the waiting times.