Cycle Analyst fine tuning

GASSTINKS

10 W
Joined
Dec 5, 2007
Messages
75
Location
O.C., Ca
I'm having a hell of a time interpreting how the advanced settings work. I really wish this manual gave some examples of how doing X,Y, and Z will give you such-and-such kind of outcome.

I'm assuming that a very simple way to extend the range I can ride is by reducing the Max Throttle setting, but the last part of the explanation needs further explaining:

"8.15 Max Throttle
This value puts a maximum cap on the throttle output signal. It can be
useful to simulate a lower speed motor by simply clamping the throttle
signal to a value between 0 to 5V. Be aware that the majority of hall
effect throttles only operate from 1V to 4V, and so the desired setting to
reduce the speed would fall in this range less the diode voltage drop."

"...less the diode voltage drop." - Huh? The way I understand the above paragraph: the throttle has a practical range of 1 to 4 volts, 1 being almost a standstill, 4 being the equivalent of full-throttle. So, there is a practical range of 3 volts. If I set this to 2.5v, will I be running at half throttle?

Also, anyone know the proper setting for the "Set Rshunt" for a 36v Bafang motor with a 36/48v 20 amp Infineon controller? I wonder if I have this set wrong (it's at 5), since the most amps I'm able to draw is around 13.

Thanks for any light you guys can shed on this. I really want to understand how the CA works...
 
I would even pay someone to explain how this thing works at this point. I'm impressed with the product and what the manufacturer claims it does, but I'm unimpressed with how the manual's author assumes the reader has an extensive background in electronics. Justin has a great product; he failed by producing a lousy manual.
 
Okay, challenge me, ask questions - I'm about to buy one of their rear hub systems, we'll bo0th learn this way...

I do understand Justin-ese 8)
 
CowtownPeddler said:
Okay, challenge me, ask questions - I'm about to buy one of their rear hub systems, we'll bo0th learn this way...

I do understand Justin-ese 8)

O.k., thanks.

Seems to me that every current reading is predicated by the Rshunt setting. I don't know if the Rshunt is set correctly, since I have no other method for measuring how much current is drawn at full throttle from a stand still. I assume that a 20 amp controller should draw 20 amps in that circumstance, but the manual does not state this. Is my max amps reading on the CA correct in reading 15 amps for a 20 amp rated controller? Am I correct in assuming that if the Rshunt setting is set low, when I hit the battery lvc, the CA will have a much lower reading regarding amp hours drawn than it should?

There are three settings for the throttle, but the description of what the Min and Max setting is actually supposed to effect is not clear to me. Are ITermMax and Min independent of the Max Throttle setting?

I'm still not sure if "oscillations" mean that the chugging sensation of the power going on and off is an oscillation, or something totally abnormal for which I need a new controller. And, will the on/off chugging actually drain more juice out of the battery, as I'm imagining huge fluctuations in current when this happens.

Justin e-mailed me back that the Infineon I'm using might have a soft start feature which renders the limiting functions useless with regard to any kind of smooth control by the CA. Anyone else encounter this problem?
 
GASSTINKS said:
Seems to me that every current reading is predicated by the Rshunt setting. I don't know if the Rshunt is set correctly, since I have no other method for measuring how much current is drawn at full throttle from a stand still. I assume that a 20 amp controller should draw 20 amps in that circumstance, but the manual does not state this. Is my max amps reading on the CA correct in reading 15 amps for a 20 amp rated controller? Am I correct in assuming that if the Rshunt setting is set low, when I hit the battery lvc, the CA will have a much lower reading regarding amp hours drawn than it should?

Yes....the current value is based off of the RShunt resistance. It's value is definitely off if it only shows a 15 amp pull at WOT. The controller should be able to put out 30 amps in short bursts. I calibrated my CA with a second inline CA and just fine tuned it 'till they read the same values. A DC amp clamp would work as well.
 
RPA said:
Yes....the current value is based off of the RShunt resistance. It's value is definitely off if it only shows a 15 amp pull at WOT. The controller should be able to put out 30 amps in short bursts. I calibrated my CA with a second inline CA and just fine tuned it 'till they read the same values. A DC amp clamp would work as well.

Got it, thanks. I set the RShunt value to 3.5 and now the CA shows a bit under 20 amps when accelerating from a stop. You're right: the max amount was around 30 amps.

I rode 18 miles worth of serious hills during last night's commute home and averaged 15 wh/mile, but that was with pedaling very hard. Prior to buying the CA, I always assumed that I was contributing a lot more than was actually the case. It's very easy to let the motor do the work for you, and to forget to put in your max effort without feedback such as the CA provides. The commute has now turned into a game: I'm constantly trying to limit the amount of power I rely on from the battery and trying to contribute more from my legs.
 
Yeah, you gotta get that shunt calibrated properly, ---one method is use a small battery and voltmeter/ammeter (havent tried) . I just soldered my shunt, and now im trying to calibrate it on the CA by watching the amp hours that go back into (lipo) batterys. Seems like i got it pretty close by trial and error. Youll get it, the programming is pain but stick with it and youll learn to love that thing.....

mike
 
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