Deecanios first build the "DC1"

[fechter]

The bike sounds great!

That should be really fun out in the woods.

With the current state-of-the-art of FETs, I'd recommend staying below 90v. You can always boost the current.

I had a Kawasaki H1E for a while. 3 cylinder 2-stroke. Deadly.

 

[knoxie]

Hi

Yes Richard is right, 72V will be more than enough and 1 x torque arm on each side will be enough mate. I will take my torque arm of the BMX and post a few pictures of it its scary how much it has bent it, still if it had been ally it would have just snapped, you get a warning with steel, ally just snaps.

I got a warning, it went slow like it was firing on 2 phases, I slowed down and looked down and could see it had turned! scary stuff and the plug was pulling out, eew!!

Going to fit 1 on each side on the BMX and the Puma 26 incher so will get some made up, I think I will get quite a few made up, I will look at your one and see if he cant slip one or 2 out for you.

72V is very very powerful in one of these, its the same difference you would have felt getting off your push-bike and on to your RD125LC for the first time!!

Get out in to the woods and have fun, wear a good helmet take your phone and let people know when you are coming back!!! safety first!! esp when you got 72V on that sucker, slow down for people as you will be able to do nearly 40mph with that, if you can stay on it!

Cheers

Paul....ooh its Friday almost home time!! work has been a nightmare and I am of to the shops on the Trek for some wine and beers!! bettter get me some video to watch when I get in!! no special software needed, just create a google video account and upload it.

 

[Ypedal]

G'day Paul.

Do you know about the projected lifespan of the nylon gears ? are they available as parts for replacement when the time comes ? Has anyone replaced a set that you know of yet ?

 

[knoxie]

Hi

The projected lifespan of the gears should not be a problem, I have no data but there is no reason for them not to last many many thousands of miles, they are only in use when you are using the power.

Some cars utilise nylon gears in their transmissions, the main rotor gears can be replaced, I am not sure about the case gear, I will get Mark to find out and let you know.

Cheers

Paul

 

[Ypedal]

Thank you.

Even if it's a chore to replace them ..As long as they last a few good years in service and are available, these hubs seem very interesting.

I'm spending a small fortune gathering different systems, i'm going to need one of these too !!!

 

[knoxie]

Hi

No its not too bad to replace them I don't think, I will get him to double check for you though, It would be worth having different gears as well, I know they can do that, produce rotors with different gears, you can then slide the rotor and gear straight out of your wheel and drop a new one in place! cool or what. Or just have 2 wheels with different gearings! if you had 2 on the same bike they would still be lighter than an X5 :wink:

Cheers

Knoxie

 

[Matt Gruber]

G'day Paul.

Do you know about the projected lifespan of the nylon gears ? are they available as parts for replacement when the time comes ? Has anyone replaced a set that you know of yet ?

3,000 mi is the # to beat imo. that's where a few earlier designs failed. cars are bathed in over 80psi fluid to get long life. i once drained a '56 ford-o-matic and it lasted several miles, way more than i expected!

anyway, 1000mi/year for 5 yrs would be fair imo. 3,000 kind of short. i hope they last longer, but it would be a huge surprise.

 

[knoxie]

Hi

Ooh no! 3000 miles? they will go way past that, the gears are covered in silicon graphite grease, they may wear quicker under high power but as they are and under 1kw or so they will be good for over 20,000 easy, I will get Mark to get the factory to check. I do over 3000 miles a year on my bike.

Cheers

Knoxie

 

[deecanio]

Hi All,

Well hope everyone had a great weekend - mine was real nice until sunday evening......................
first off, got home early on friday, so, on went the backpack and straight into the woods, the bike was equipped with the first battery i had run on thursday night - it was still 39v ish and i ran it for about 50 mins further.My bike cut out at the bottom of a very steep hill and i think it was because i had used 10.69ah ? my voltage was still 36v at this point but i had been running at hills quite a lot.i switched off and unplugged, waited some then plugged back in ( i probably shouldn't do that?)and switched on again and the bike pulled me back up the hill and then i switched off,disconnected and rolled home.at the moment im never more than a mile from home.
I have to say that ride was the most i'd put the puma through and it ran like a charm, even though i had used some of the power the night before it pulled me up every hill i pointed it at making me chuckle as i went round tight gravel corners, gunned it and a litte spin ensued lol

but then on Saturday i had a dilemna, the friday ride was good but again i nearly came off by wheelie pulling over stumps and throttling lol (Ypedal told me to watch for that!!) so i decided that i would put the batts on the bike its the coming off the back with 2 x 10lbs lipos on my back and me still being attached by cable thats the worry. I really didn't want to do this but in the end its the only sensible way,but i guess you guys already know that :wink:

Anyway,being as i had used one of two charged batts i thought i would lash the unused batt on the bike frame so i could ride it rucksack free and stand when i pleased without disconnecting or having a drooping cabe if i sat - it was also very nice to know if anything went a bit wrong i could bail as a last resort.I decided that my safety was paramount so i gave in to the frame mount, i lashed it a bit by zip tying in the battery with 6 ties and then duck taping the whole thing to make it solid, it is there good too.I had to move the controller and so i placed it behind the seatpost as this made cabling very easy,i didnt get much time on saturday so getting it ready for sunday was a far as i got.
Sunday came and a quick bit of cable tidying and i was good to go and try the bike with the batt on the frame, i hoped it wold be well placed to add a bit of weight to the front i rode to the top of the hill,connected up in the forest and i noticed that ive connected with the controller on - i was sure i'd switched off before and when i checked it didnt matter wether the controller was on or off the light was on and so was everything else? i decided to ride on as all else seemed well, i noticed also that it wasn't quite itself as far as performance is concerned, with the first batt it was real perky for 5 mins then settled to a steadier performane for the duration where as this batt seemed to be the steady performance without an initial burst.i put it down to maybe first charge not quite there yet scenario and rode on - again must say that the puma pulled me everywhere but there was a slight feeling of it doing slightly less well than the other battery.Any way i rode it fairly hard but i stopped regularly checking the batt and controller for heat.i did give it a real testing up and down bumpy trails i must admit probably too rough for the batts first outing but i'm keen to see if this project is going to work out or not before i put more money into the next .
anyway having had 10.69 and seeing the db was adding todays total i thought i would stop at 20ah and head home,good job i came near home earlier as at 18.9 my bike stopped.i tried to disconnect and wait as i had before but when i reconnected and gently accelerated the wheel jerked briefly then nothing.i hadn't been doing much at that point, nothing like the hard ride i was having earlier anyway lol .i switched off disconnected the batt and went home,again i put it down to not being charged properly.
I waited for the batt to cool (it was barely warm to be honest but i let it cool then put it on charge - its strapped to the frame now and it was kinda cool to see just one plug charging it,nice and easy.
Anyway charge complete i kept my fingers crossed and plugged back in and everything came up, on light included the switch is still nonfuntional and throttle results in a quick small movement followed bu nothing



:?
Have i blown my controller? i'm not sure but i guess so - the starnge thing is for about five mins before this happened i was taking it easy round a pond as i knew my ah was up anyway, i'd given it a real ride earlier and it stood up like a champ so i couldnt figure out why, maybe the new controller location is no good?who knows?

its at times like these i wish i had some clue about the electronics :lol:
Anyone got any tests i can do????

Anyway some pics of my lashout weekend.........................the ride was good but the comedown hard!!



Cheers

D

 

[maytag]

the ride was good but the comedown hard!!

D

Believe me, I know exactly how you feel. Your description of the problem and the bahavior of the controller is very similar to how my 1st controller was acting after it gave out. Try this, turn on the controller then lift up the rear tire and give it some throttle. Mine would spin as if everything was ok but when I set the tire on the ground and give it throttle, it would die when any load was applied to the wheel.

One thing you can try if you havent already, try running the bike with just the 1st lipo pack (the stronger pack). If the power still cuts out, is the drainbrain still powered up and what does it say the pack voltage is after it cuts power to the wheel? I'm afraid that the signs point to a bad controller, I was lucky enough that my bro has a 36-72v controller thats been put through several hundred miles already so it was easy to determine my controller was bad. I'll be getting my replacement controller in 2 days and after taking a quick functionality test ride I'll crack open the controller case to inspect the FETs mounting h/w, replace if needed then see how the controller holds up. I'll post my findings on the GT thread. Good luck.

 

[Lowell]

Any concerns about the rear spokes? I'd like to do a 20" rim on an X5, but not sure if a 2 cross will be ok.

 

[knoxie]

Hi Mate

Right it sounds like the dodgy plastic tubes have struck again!! it was a concern of mine as you were to be riding on rough ground! if its any help I bust up my bike yesterday, did a 45 mile super fun ride, the last 2 miles from home I decided to hit some woods near me for some off road riding, now my bike with the USPD throws out mental low down torque, I forgot this and had my throttle limiter up too high! I climbed a stupidly steep bank and in the process broke 2 x spokes! I didn't realise as I had my phones on!!

On the way back about 2 miles from home, the spokes punctured the tyre! darn it!! so I have a trip to the Local bike shop today for some new spokes! still its easier to fix than your problem, so back around to you.

Charge the known good battery back up and try it again, check and double check your wiring, make sure that all is good there. If it is still not working disconnect the controller, set your digital volt meter to Ohms and first off test between each motor phase from the controller yel,green,blue, you should be reading a high resistance? if it shorts out or reads nearly 0 on the meter then something is wrong. Next put one of your probes on the controller red lead and then the other probe on each phase in turn, again you should be reading meg ohms here in each case, if its a few ohms then its a fet failure problem.

On a positive note the modified controller I am running now on the 26 Inch Raleigh is stonking, I took it out along some rough trails and along the towpath and gave it a real good thrashing, it runs cool and the watts up was indicating 1,300 watts at times so its looking more and more like a reliability issue with those pesky rubber tubes and or the fets, Its looking more like the tubes are failing, your failure at only 37V leads me to think this as well which is good news as it only costs 1 pound to fix those pesky tubes.

The battery is positioned great by the way however I would try and make a more robust mounting for it, especially as you have done such a good Job on the rest of the bike!

Do those tests for me and report back as to what you find, It is possible that the BMS has failed in the batteries as well, check all of your connections, another possibility is throttle failure contact Mark as he has loads of those hall effect throttles I am sure he will send you one to try, its worth a go if your DVM tests are ok.

Good Luck and don't worry too much mate we will sort it out for you what ever happens.

Cheers

Knoxie

 

[deecanio]

Hi Guys,

Jozzer,

Thanks, glad you like the bike - hehe it really did rip until sunday,lol you can see how long it's taken me to get to a rideable state, i would say i have at least that far to go again with fine tuning and making a suitable battery holding mounting for the batteries - june this year makes a year since i first started lmao, i'm not the fastest at getting stuff done!!! i am putting all that i learn from the guys on this bike into the dc2 but realistically i don't think we will see that bike until 2008!!!!!

Maytag,

thanks for the sympathy mate, i will have to do some testing tonight to see what has happened, maybe i might get away with it but i think the controller is at fault, we will see - maybe joystix can pop his controller over the pond for me to test with ?

Lowell,

i have only ridden three times but i have given it a fair bashing - i have no problems at all so far and my wheel is only single walled. Ypedal has an x5 in a 20" so he would be better placed to let you know about spoke issues - i'm running a 8lb puma which is obviously far less of a problem than a 25lb x5 - so far so good with my radial spoke 20"

Knoxie,

Sorry to hear you had probs too, i guess it must be part and parcel of owning an ebike, occasionally breaking down at least you have some backup machines!!
My probs could be down to rough riding - some of the trails are a bit bumpy so maybe being as yours mine and maytags controllers have all failed at a time when we were'nt really putting lots of power through it could be as you say the mounting of the fets?
Anyway not to get ahead of ourselves i will do all the tests you mention when i get in tonight.
I haven't been in touch with Mark yet as i don't really know what the problem is - although if my controller is blown should i ask him for another or wait until we have a solid controller setup ???also throws up the question of the bmc factory made controller too?
im not really sure how this will work out but thanks mate for reassuring me we can fix her up, this weekend proved the motors ability very well and i cant wait to run at 72v . the batt is as i said just lashed on and i will come up with some much better bracketing - now seems like a good time to tackle that as i'm out of action for a bit, i plan to mount both the batts in that position which will keep the bike balanced and hopefully help keep the front end down especially at double power!!! lol

will get the tests done and come back to you later on mate - no good just summising i suppose - do you think i should give mark a heads up ???
I'm not totally disapointed as it performed great mostly and we did half expect a failure.


cheers

D

 

[deecanio]

ok i have put the "good" battery on charge - will be ready about half ten
i did the tests knoxie and heres the reults -

"Charge the known good battery back up and try it again, check and double check your wiring, make sure that all is good there. If it is still not working disconnect the controller, set your digital volt meter to Ohms and first off test between each motor phase from the controller yel,green,blue, you should be reading a high resistance? if it shorts out or reads nearly 0 on the meter then something is wrong"

ok so i cant test with the other battery until it's charged.
i set my dvm to ohms and put it on 200m?(i didnt know what to expect so used the highest setting?) all the phases tested out at 1.2 ? no matter which way round i tested them ie.all colours to all colours.

" Next put one of your probes on the controller red lead and then the other probe on each phase in turn, again you should be reading meg ohms here in each case, if its a few ohms then its a fet failure problem."

ok left the meter on 200m setting put one probe in the red connector on the controller and with the other tested each phase - all tested out at 1.1?
i'm not sure what these readings mean lol but it seems ok?
the "good" batt is charging so i will connect it later and see what happens.
the throttle cable looks a little flatened (has been since i got it) is there any way to test it?

Cheers


D

 

[fechter]

Hmm.... sounds like the FETs are OK.

You say the power light stays on all the time and the switch does not turn it off? Most likely a switch problem there. Possibly a wire pinched inside.

If the wheel just jerks a bit then nothing- sounds like a loss of hall sensor signal.

Next would be to try and measure the hall wires (with respect to battery negative) while slowly turning the wheel. You'll need to turn the wheel backwards to make the motor move.

Other similar test: power up and see if there's lots of resistance to turning backward. It will be very hard to turn with the power on compared to the power off if the hall signals are working.

 

[d]

deecanio,

if you're using a 36V-72V Clyte controller with a 36V Battery, what may be happening is that the CONTROLLER, which has a low volt cutoff, is cutting off after your battery reaches a certain voltage due to voltage sag under load.

if you run 48V or up to 72, you will never approach the Low Volt cutoff of the controller due to V-Sag, but with 36V, you risk it due to V-Sag... this is why I stopped running 36V on my CLyte.

 

[deecanio]

hey guys thank for the help, do i need it!!

d,

yes crystalyte controller 36-72v - i can see your thinking but i have recharged the bike battery and it is now 41.5v? wouldn't that rule out low voltage cut off? im just guessing here as i don't know squat! :lol:
and it doesn't explain the power light being on all the time, make that the power period being on all the time? the on/off is unoperational even when i had a fully charged batt at the start of my last ride.

fechter,

did those readings make sense to you? i thought they were all gone bad or were ok as they all read the same - i need more lamens terms for the test please -im decabled so i could check the cabling but im happy to connect up to test - do i understand the unpowerd test correctly in that i put one probe into the black battery terminal and the other on the hall pins at the motor cable? what do i set the dvm to measure? lol sorry my knowledge is so poor.

does anyone have any documentation for the controller?

Cheers

D

 

[fechter]

There's a few tests.

With the meter on ohms, NO power, measure resistance from each power lead to each phase wire (6 combinations). A shorted FET will give a near zero reading somewhere. If all the readings are higher than about 10k, then the FETs are probably good (or at least not shorted).

I think you did this test already.

To measure the halls, you need to power up the controller, wheel off the ground. Put the black meter probe on the battery neg. terminal and measure each of the hall wires with the red probe.

You should see one wire that stays zero, one wire that reads somewhere around 7 to 10v steady and the other three should go between near zero and near 7 as the motor is turned by hand (no throttle).

Don't forget to try the rolling backwards test. It's another way of checking the hall signals.

 

[knoxie]

Hi

To answer the other poster It wont be the low voltage cut off, these packs cut out themselves at 29V, the packs only drop in to that zone after you have used at least 10AH from the pack, it will typically drop to about 34V fresh off the charger at 35A load, the xlyte controller will cut out at 29v if you are using 1 x pack.

The fets sound ok Mate so that's good news!! I think that there may be a problem with the voltage regulator, can you tell me if the throttle you got has LEDS? or is it the std hall effect throttle?

Also make sure you are reading meg ohms on the meter when you do the fet test, also make sure the readings are true, short out your leads and make sure the meter doesn't read 1.2 ohms! you need to be reading meg ohms not ohms!

I am suspicious about the on / off switch though, if the on light is on all the time? does the button make a positive click when you turn it on? also keep an eye on the drain brain, do the monitored amps rise and fall when you press the button, the controller consumes 60ma or so whilst idling, you should see this on the DB.

The other thing is have you connected the break switch levers? if so check your connections there, the other thing to check is that you have 5 volts at the throttle as well, you can also get a break in the throttle wire that will cause the same problem as well.

There are so many test to carry out, I have been thinking I should do a video of this as I keep on telling folks the same thing, it would save my fingers some!!

Hang on just a minute! ha ha hmm I wonder I wonder I wonder, this sounds like something I had happen, drop the wheel out of the bike and unscrew the cassette off the rear, you need to remove the cover on the motor, I want you to check out the wiring from the lead to the motor, I have found that on some of these rear motors the joints that they make from the lead to the windings have been cold soldered (dry joints).

Take the motor cover plate off and make a visual inspection of the connections, you will see them hidden inside white fabric tubes, they wires lay flat on the motor windings, I used a pair of small nail scissors and snipped all of them open, I found one had opened completely! I had lost the blue phase, if this is the case simply resolder them and glue the covers shut, I re soldered all of them on the Puma 26 Incher just to be safe and then simply glued them back down with some super glue.

A good way to test this if you don't want to snip the insulation is to use a pin and your DVM, plug one end in to the blue phase at the plug end and then using a pin prick the wire inside the motor to test for continuity, then move past the connection (testing the other side of the connection) to make sure you get good continuity again.

Dont do this until you have ruled out the others as I still suspect the controller in a way as the switch should work.

Good Luck and like I said don't worry, I am not busy playing with myself as other people think I am actually trying to make this thing work.

Cheers

Knoxie

 

[deecanio]

hey Guys,

i didn' get time (usual story) to do the tests, i will get them done when i get home tonight just before the footie

knoxie,

"Hi

To answer the other poster It wont be the low voltage cut off, these packs cut out themselves at 29V, the packs only drop in to that zone after you have used at least 10AH from the pack, it will typically drop to about 34V fresh off the charger at 35A load, the xlyte controller will cut out at 29v if you are using 1 x pack.

Agreed - i dont think its a low voltage cutout issue.

The fets sound ok Mate so that's good news!! I think that there may be a problem with the voltage regulator, can you tell me if the throttle you got has LEDS? or is it the std hall effect throttle?

i have a standard hall effect throttle,no led's full grip.

Also make sure you are reading meg ohms on the meter when you do the fet test, also make sure the readings are true, short out your leads and make sure the meter doesn't read 1.2 ohms! you need to be reading meg ohms not ohms!

i'm sure i was reading meg ohms? my dvm was set to "200m"? on the ohms.
i will short the meter just to check it is reading correctly.

I am suspicious about the on / off switch though, if the on light is on all the time? does the button make a positive click when you turn it on? also keep an eye on the drain brain, do the monitored amps rise and fall when you press the button, the controller consumes 60ma or so whilst idling, you should see this on the DB.

yeh the on/off switch is a strange one, as i said it was on constantly before my last ride but the bike still worked ok - the button itself seems ok with a good click for on/off - i will check to see if db registers anything when i power up with the "good" pack later on and come back to you on that.

The other thing is have you connected the break switch levers? if so check your connections there, the other thing to check is that you have 5 volts at the throttle as well, you can also get a break in the throttle wire that will cause the same problem as well.

i haven't used the brake lever inhibits at all although i may fit them at 72v just to be safe or wire the kill switch to that connection for an emergency cut out. - how do i test 5v at the throttle? power up and test it at the throttle connection at the controller?

There are so many test to carry out, I have been thinking I should do a video of this as I keep on telling folks the same thing, it would save my fingers some!!

yes that would be great - although the testing is a bit of a pita i'm learning about my bike so once i know what voltage to look for and where i will be less needy :lol:

Hang on just a minute! ha ha hmm I wonder I wonder I wonder, this sounds like something I had happen, drop the wheel out of the bike and unscrew the cassette off the rear, you need to remove the cover on the motor, I want you to check out the wiring from the lead to the motor, I have found that on some of these rear motors the joints that they make from the lead to the windings have been cold soldered (dry joints).

Take the motor cover plate off and make a visual inspection of the connections, you will see them hidden inside white fabric tubes, they wires lay flat on the motor windings, I used a pair of small nail scissors and snipped all of them open, I found one had opened completely! I had lost the blue phase, if this is the case simply resolder them and glue the covers shut, I re soldered all of them on the Puma 26 Incher just to be safe and then simply glued them back down with some super glue.

A good way to test this if you don't want to snip the insulation is to use a pin and your DVM, plug one end in to the blue phase at the plug end and then using a pin prick the wire inside the motor to test for continuity, then move past the connection (testing the other side of the connection) to make sure you get good continuity again.

Dont do this until you have ruled out the others as I still suspect the controller in a way as the switch should work.

This is what i will try after i feedback on the other tests - it doesn't sound too technical for me so i will take a peak, again i'd like to know my bike better.

Good Luck and like I said don't worry, I am not busy playing with myself as other people think I am actually trying to make this thing work.

not sure who's been saying anything different knoxie, not me mate thats for sure!!!!!! ????? like i said i not have even started my build if you hadn't helped me all the way along - you just point 'em out mate and i'll bash them for ya!!!!!!

Cheers

Knoxie


Cheers Knoxie

P.S. do you think i should drop mark a mail and ask himto send me a controller and throttle? i was thinking that if he can and i end up with two controllers is there any chance you can upgrade one for me? i'll see you right mate as i don't want you feeling like i'm taking the piss with your helpfulness - name your price mate



D

 

[fechter]

The switch problem is may not be related to the other problem.

To check the switch, you'll have to open up the controller (take out all the screws). Make sure the battery is disconnected when you do this.

You might get away with just taking the end plates off. If you trace the switch wires, they go to a plug on the circuit board. Unplug the switch from the circuit board and try to measure across the wires with an ohmmeter while pressing the switch on and off.

You can check the throttle voltage at the throttle connector. Measure against the battery negative.

To check the phase wires in the motor, you could disconnect the motor from the controller and measure the resistance between each pair of phase wires (3 combinations). All the measurements should look like zero ohms.

 

[knoxie]

Hi Mate

Yes you have lots of tests to do so I will leave you to it for a while, Mark is aware of your problem, its not a biggy and whatever we can sort the problem I am sure. I have a new revision of the Puma which I am going to go ahead and run on 48V and use as my daily work commuting bike, this is on an older controller that has not been modified so not sure if I will try 72V but 48V should be ok. It will be interesting to see how it performs.

I will get and do a video of the controller tests as well as I think it will help a lot of people diagnose their problems, as far as upgrading the controller goes I will have to book time in with the missus for that!! ha ha yes its very time consuming, I have not got enough fets yet to do another mod only enough to repair one phase if it goes however I can get some more sent over.

Something strange is going on, I haven't got the schematic to hand for the on / off button but I think they are latching buttons and simply fire up the onboard voltage regulator that energises the rest of the circuit, not sure, its quite tricky to check the 5V at the throttle connector and I wouldn't want you to short it out so don't worry about that for now, do the other test as I outlined, print it out if it helps and go through and thick them all off.

Mark is a good guy and totally supports all his customers so there is no need to worry on that front, just need to get you back up and running quickly, I like to get my ride sorted instantly if it breaks I hate it if any of my rides don't work and normally stay up like a concerned parent in to the early hours to fix them!!

I'm kicking back and watching the game tonight as well so no tinkering for me, I still have a spoke to change!

Cheers

Knoxie

 

[deecanio]

Yeh no worries mate,

I'll be watching the footie - ill do the testing after the game if i can get out of checking wedding finances with the mrs :lol: aren't we both the man of the house, NOT!!
is the new revision of the puma another new motor? i thought you already had a newer version of mine?is this a newer version again?bmx like?
If you order some more fets can you over order - i'll go halves with you if you like? let me know and ill send you the money.
If i send my mrs over to yours with some shopping money for them both can we swing upgrade time that way? :lol:
Yes mark is a top man and sais he'll send me out another controller and throttle in a days time, full marks for customer service !!
plenty of testing for me to do as you say mate so i'll crack on and report back here later, thanks for helping me out, i really appreciate it.

Fechter,
thank you for the tips - i've been in touch with my supplier and he is sending me a new controller to try, although im keen to learn how my bike works i don't want to get to indepth whilst testing as mark would prefer a straight swap out without some ammateur messing with stuff he doesnt know about,lol this suits me better too as i can try another controller straight away to rule that out or not as the case maybe.
i will try all the tests that have been posted thus far and leave it there i think.


Cheers All


D

 

[deecanio]

Hey all,

not much luck with the testing thus far - i've had a go at all the test bar the checking inside the wheel at the phase wires - i'm hoping that mark will post me a new controller and as i suspect it most i can wait a day or two to try another controller before i disassemble the motor
here's a few pics of my meter and my method as i really don't know jack about what im doing lol but i need to know how to test right so i can learn me some ;p

sorry screwed up read the pics from the bottom up - sorry, rushing for footie!!

when i powered up with the now charged good batt (41.5v) the db showed no change in status when i used the controller on/off button ? and thus i suspect the controller is down?
i dont fear getting dirty and in there with testing but do you guys think i should just test the new controller as and when it gets here or is there more i can try? let me know guys and i'll start thinking mounting for both those lipos


cheers all


D

 

[maytag]

Dee,

I measured out my working new replacement controller and this is what I got:

Controller pwr+ (red) >>> all hi current phase wires = above 2meg ohms

Controller pwr- (blk) >>> all hi current phase wires = above 2meg ohms

Controller hi current phase wires (blu,grn,yel) any combination = above 5.5meg ohms

Controller case (endplate screws) to hi current wires = no resistance

From what I see on your controller phase wires photo youre getting a much smaller resistance reading than mine. Measure between the phase wires and the controller power red and blk wires and also to the case, use the 20M setting on your meter. Let us know what your readings are and I'm sure Fechter will chime in.