Sam;
From what I understand there are 3 levels of sulphate bonds possible in a SLA cell. The first level is easily reversed by a normal DC charge of @ 15V. The next two levels of bonds are not affected by a DC charge, but they can be broken by using 1KHz DC at 20V. I also found that "battery conditioners" have been use on ocean going vessels for 40+ years. These devices use the 1KHz DC at 20V. Before the advent of modern communications, ship to shore was carried out at 2,3,4KHz AM and then SSB. Both forms of communication was made impossible if someone in the anchorage happened to be using their conditioner, so it was common courtesy to advise your fellow boaters before doing it. What I am trying to convey is that the practice of conditioning a battery was well known a long time ago. I was on one 80' vessel in the summers, from 1980-1990 which had the original 1974 batteries. Most of our local commercial fishing vessels during this period, sat 6-8 months of the year. Many owners, without conditioners, found their batteries only lasted 2-3 seasons. I have taken many of these discarded 8D batteries and by using the 1KHz pulse, brought them back to 95%+ life. This is how I got started collecting batteries instead of buying them new. Now I grab every battery that crosses my path and give them a pulse, then a charge. There is no question that a battery such as the one shown in the video, with buckled plates, shorted or open cell connections, can not be re-used. When I have time, I will put my neighbours charger with conditioner on my scope and see what it is doing, when it is in the conditioning phase. I just use a signal generator for my batteries. I built a conditioner from a kit, many years ago and it was very slow.
To say battery conditioning is impossible, or worthless is not true. I am certainly not claiming to get every old battery back to 95%, but for starting an ICE, you don't need much unless it is 0*C out. If I get 1/2 my free batteries to wake up and be useful , I am very happy.
We have several dumb chargers and only one with the conditioning feature. When it charges a new battery, it takes it to full charge and quits. When it decides a battery needs conditioning, after conditioning, it drops the voltage until it is only charging at 1 amp and never fully charges, a less than perfect battery. We then switch to a dumb charger and leave it for another 24 hours before installing it. If we don't need the battery, we switch to a float charger 13.25V-13.75V and leave it for a week. This often improves the resting voltage, as measured after 24 hours off the charger.
Edit; Apparently most commercial battery conditioners now use 3.26MHz NOT 1KHz.